Thursday, May 8, 2025

The Window Opened And We Enjoyed The View

Beaufort, NC to Deltaville, VA  |  32.9 Hours  |  244.7 Miles  

The morning began with another early alarm and a quick departure. I was on deck as the sky was turning pink. A lone horse grazed behind Crossroads in the grasses of Carrot Island. There was neither wind nor waves in the anchorage and only a small amount of current. The anchor and chain both came up clean. Wow, what a start to the day. In what seemed to be a geographical oddity, the sun rose behind Beaufort and we motored west into the Atlantic. By the time we reached Shackleford Banks, the sun was up and shining upon another beautiful wild horse. 

For the first time in our cruising career, we had been gifted a weather window around Cape Hatteras. By going offshore we would be home in roughly 30 hours, as opposed to four days slogging through the ICW. Beaufort Inlet was very busy and we found ourselves being passed by fast-moving boats of every size. At one point a string of eight large sport fishers plowed past us on their way to their favorite offshore fishing spots. The cumulative effect of all the wakes was far worse than the tiny waves offered by Mother Nature. We turned and set a waypoint for the tip of Cape Lookout Shoal. The sun was rising higher in the sky, but still produced a blinding glare through the haze and off the water. We tracked about 12 miles from shore to not lose internet service. At that distance, the view of the Cape Lookout Lighthouse was disappointing at best. Our second waypoint was set for Cape Hatteras. We settled in and enjoyed low and long ocean swells, an occasional dolphin, interesting clouds, and a lone duck from the comfort of the pilothouse. It was a little chilly on the water.

Today I learned that the area between Cape Lookout and Cape Hatteras is called Raleigh Bay. A light breeze created gentle ripples on the water. I took a nap in the sun and then did my afternoon watch from the flybridge. With a day this nice, I just had to be outside. Off the coast of Ocracoke, Barry spotted a balloon and we diverted slightly to rescue it. A short time later I saw a large white square bobbing in the water. We approached it and I went to scoop it with the boat hook as usual. I quickly realized that was no balloon ... but a standard bed pillow. We tried twice to pick it up, but could not due to its weight. If I had a gaff, I could have gotten it onboard. It will forever be the one that got away. Boat traffic increased as we neared Cape Hatteras with fishing boats returning to port at the end of the day. The sun was quickly dropping and the cloud cover was increasing. The view of the iconic Cape Hatteras Lighthouse was also disappointing. Distance and haze combined with the tower being surrounded in scaffolding while being renovated made for an ugly photo. It is here, however, to document that we did in fact round Cape Hatteras aboard Crossroads.  

The wind dropped to four knots and the clouds thickened to obscure any view of the sunset. Barry and I went on our alternating watch cycles. Just shy of 3:00am, I was texting Glenda on Paradigm Shift who was two hours in front of us. That sure made the time go by much quicker. The moon finally broke through the clouds just before it set. The bright moonsplash lit up the horizon. Lights from Rodanthe were visible onshore as were the rotating beacons of both the Ocracoke and Bodie Island Lighthouses. Thanks to calm seas, I slept well until 6:00am when I came back on watch as the sun was rising. 

By 7:00 we were up to Rudee Inlet and had a great view of familiar buildings at the southern end of Virginia Beach. It was rush hour for ship traffic with everyone heading to the same point, at the same time. A large cargo ship led the way into the Chesapeake Bay. A tug towing a large disabled freighter was next in line. I finally got a good view of two lighthouses located at Cape Henry within Fort Story military base. The original (brown) structure is the fourth oldest (1792) lighthouse in the country and the first federal construction project authorized by President George Washington after the Revolutionary War. In 1881 the "new" black and white lighthouse was built 350 feet from the original. 

We passed over the northern tunnel of the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel. The southern section of bridge ends at the island before descending underwater. We were back in familiar territory and skirted the large ship parking lot off Cape Charles while moving north. Ducks bobbed on the calm water as pelicans skimmed just above the surface. Our "welcome to the Chesapeake" moments came almost concurrently as the crab pots and biting flies soon appeared. We didn't even mind (too much) swatting the flies when the view was so fabulous. 

We crossed over to the western side of the Bay and passed somewhat close to the Wolf Trap Lighthouse. Looking over the mainland the clouds were building. By the time we reached the mouth of the Rappahannock River they had darkened and we could see heavy rain falling in the distance. We checked the weather radar and slowed a bit to allow the cell to dissipate. By the time we made our turn into the Broad Creek Channel, blue sky had returned. Our final mile was the most nerve wracking of the trip as we had to enter shallow Broad Creek at almost dead low tide. The dredge working to dig out a deeper channel was a very pleasant sight, but its work is not complete so we went slow and had no issues returning to our slip at Stingray Point Marina. After getting our dock lines and power cord hooked up, we walked over and retrieved my car from long term storage. Tomorrow we'll begin offloading "stuff." A deep cleaning of everything will take several weeks. Thanks for following along on our 2025 Winter Cruise. This year's trip covered 129 days and 2,750 miles. We're thankful for the opportunity to travel, escape the cold, meet up with friends and family along the way, and explore some of the prettiest places in the world. Lord willing, our next departure date is set for December 30, 2025. 


 

Tuesday, May 6, 2025

Almost Home ... Beaufort

Mile Hammock to Beaufort  |  6 Hours  |  38.4 Miles  

We had a calm and restful night in the anchorage. Dawn broke with no wind, flat water, and gorgeous reflections. Anchor raising started at 6:00 as the mass exodus began. Our anchor chain was coated in thick black mud, which when washed off, covered our entire foredeck. It took a while to get everything sufficiently hosed off, but I was done before the sun peeked over the clouds. Crossroads was third in line as the flotilla crept toward the morning's first opening of the Onslow Beach bridge at 7:00. Construction continues to replace the antiquated swing bridge with a new bascule bridge. The new span along with construction cranes towered above the lowlands of Camp Lejeune. Right at 7:00 the bridge tender rotated the span and we were on our way. 

Once through the opening and on the other side of the sun, we got a good view of the new bridge. We crept through the Army base looking at signs, egrets, and herons. Radio chatter was constant as boats reordered themselves based on running speed. For the day we passed one boat and were passed by three. Not bad. The trip required a great deal of concentration as we were at low tide and the channel was very narrow -- one boat width in some places. A strong current also played ticks on us, switching from with us to against us as we passed inlets. We ran a constant 1800 rpm, but our speed ranged from 5.0 to 8.9 knots. The morning passed quickly though and soon the bridge to Emerald Isle was in sight and we entered Bogue Sound. We were back in familiar territory, almost home. I watched as well known landmarks passed by on the shore. The Atlantic Beach water tower came into view, then the bridge to Atlantic Beach. Barry and I both commented on how the flags were almost limp. During our visits in January and February the flags are always stiff in a strong wind. We passed under the Atlantic Beach bridge and entered into Morehead City.

Three large ships were at the cargo terminal. Loaded onto one ship was a large catamaran. We ducked around Radio Island and were surprised by the number of people (and dogs) on the beaches. With a turn into Taylor Creek we cruised alongside docks lining Beaufort's Front Street before dropping our anchor for the night.  

We quickly lowered the dinghy and went to shore. The town provides cruisers a nice floating dinghy dock. We enjoyed a late lunch at Clawson's (we never made it there in January) before walking up and down Front Street. Colorful flowers were everywhere. There was comfort in seeing the same red shrimp boat and the historic houses. We were disappointed, however, that the maritime museum was still closed for construction. Historic houses sported a fresh coat of paint and new mulch. Flags flapped along the boardwalk. For a little retail therapy, we each picked up a new Tshirt. For one final taste of Beaufort we enjoyed single scoops of ice cream on a bench along the boardwalk while watching people and boats pass in front of us. Beyond the flowering pots of portulaca and dipladenia, was Crossroads. Beyond Crossroads was an even better treat.

Three of the wild horses on Carrot Island had ventured to the water's edge. We took the dinghy back to the mothership for a front row seat at the horse show. I stayed on the upper deck for at least half an hour watching them graze. Tour boats paraded by at a respectable distance. Two horses stayed at the tree line.  

The female walked along the shore and made for better photos.

Boats continued to go in and out into the early evening. The sun set beyond the full anchorage and we're again thankful for a forecasted calm night. We'll leave at dawn for another overnight run. Our next planned stop will be our home marina in Deltaville.  



Monday, May 5, 2025

A Slow And Scenic Drive Up The Ditch

Southport to Mile Hammock  |  9.6 Hours  |  57.4 Miles  

What a difference a day makes. It looked to be a perfect travel day as we hit the deck for our departure chores. There was little breeze as we eased off the dock and entered the ICW. I took in the scenery as I hung the dock lines, stored the fenders, and wiped the heavy dew from Crossroads. The Oak Island Lighthouse was easily visible to starboard. To port, the clouds were thicker and more interesting. We turned north into the Cape Fear River, encountered a strong ebb current, and struggled to maintain four knots. "More throttle," Captain. The strength of the current could be seen at the base of the channel markers. Even with the current, the water was flat and the ride was smooth. We encountered the passenger ferry leaving for Bald Head Island and the car ferry heading to Fort Fisher, but there was no other traffic. It was a good opportunity to watch the clouds.

As we moved up the Cape Fear, the current lessened. To port, a large ship was docked with containers being unloaded. With the help of both Google Maps and Wiki we found the site to be the Military Ocean Terminal Sunny Point (MOTSU). Turns out it is one of the largest military terminals in the world and serves as a transfer point between rail, trucks, and ships for Army weapons, ammunition, explosives, and military equipment. We never knew. I took out the real camera to zoom in and read the signage prohibiting drones and cameras. Oops. A blue heron watched as we turned off the river and into Snows Cut. Despite it being low tide, we had plenty of depth which was good because the area was busy. Between the heavily eroded shores passed jet skis, kayaks, center consoles, and shrimp boats. The latter had an interesting shrimp decoration atop its mast.

We exited the cut into the ICW and depth became a challenge. A glance just outside the channel revealed crab pots resting high and dry. We started the time, speed, distance calculations to arrive at the Wrightsville Beach Bridge at 11:00. Large houses with long docks and/or impressive yards lined the shore. Almost every inlet had crazy shoaling, but we followed the chart tracks without incident. We arrived at the bridge with near perfect timing and passed through the opening. It was disappointing to see only three people on the iconic Palm Tree Island. We slowly made our way to the Figure 8 Bridge and its non opening. Despite concentrating on staying in the narrow channel, we enjoyed watching the dolphin, pelicans, herons, paddle boarders, big houses, and large trees. 

Osprey seemed to have taken up residence on all the channel markers. A man fishing in knee-deep water not far from us served as a reminder of how shallow the water was out of the ditch. Once we passed under the Surf City high-rise bridge, development increased and houses lined both sides of the ICW. Construction activity was everywhere -- new houses, docks, bulkheads, dredging. A beached shrimp boat was a sad sight. It looked to be in good condition other than the osprey nest built atop its stabilization arm. We were making good time and the clouds continued to put on a show. At Topsail Beach the land grew thin, both on the barrier island and inland. A house that we've commented on for years is still putting up a good fight against erosion although the front steps now lead directly into the water. After a few more turns we entered the Camp Lejeune boundary and ended up behind a sailboat traveling at three knots. Our final mile of the day seemed to take forever, but we finally arrived in the Mile Hammock anchorage. We claimed a space for ourselves alongside 16 other boats. Fingers crossed for calm winds overnight. We will depart early tomorrow and continue north.

Sunday, May 4, 2025

Rained Out, Rescheduled For Tomorrow

Southport  

Last night we had prepared to depart this morning. When the alarm chimed, it was barely audible over the sound of the rain hitting the cabin roof. We waited an hour in hope of the sky clearing, but it did not. We called off today's travel and moved on to Plan B. I kept busy with various "business" tasks in preparation for our return to home and real life next week. The rain eventually moved out, but high humidity and heavy cloud cover remained. Cabin fever eventually set in and we needed to escape after lunch. We walked to the same park as yesterday. The view was not as good, but it was nice to be outside. A bird belted out a melody from the top of a sun-bleached stump as we strolled. We looked for a hobbit residing in an interesting tree trunk.   

There were few new highlights today. The tide was in, preventing a walk on the sand. We did spy several colorful Southern Dewberries (a species of brambles). Only a handful of folks were at the park. Most of them were small children drawn to the massive plastic gym sets. Oh what a difference "several" years make. Where is the fun in easing down gently sloped plastic into a cushion of rubber mulch? Today's youth sure miss the right of passage that was the metal slide -- tall vertical ladder, metal surface heated by the sun to sear your legs, landing in a hole at the base dug out by crash landings ... then rushing around to repeat.

And then there was the merry-go-round where we learned to hang on for dear life lest we be flung across the playground. The good old days. The clouds did finally clear out and I turned a few more pages while on Fiberglass Beach. We enjoyed salads with chicken for dinner, thanks to Barry's trip to the grocery store yesterday. We made a final pass along the docks as the sun began to set behind the clouds.

I watched the final minutes of the day from the flybridge. A young heron proved to be more interesting than the sunset. Shades of yellow and orange did get more intense with dusk. The wind and current both paused and the marina basin was glassy calm. We are again ready to depart and will do so in the morning.



Saturday, May 3, 2025

A Walk In The Park

Southport  

Today was a planned day off, but I was still up at the regular time excited to go out for a walk around Dutchman Creek Park. Just up the road from the marina and beyond the cute little Potters House Church is the entrance to the park we've visited several times over the years. We walked across a large open field to find a trail through the pine forest. A carpet of pine tags covered the sandy path around the namesake creek. No large boats were anchored as in the past, but several center console fishing boats were spread out with lines in the water. Mother Nature seems to have eaten away at the shore line, creating a doozy of a first step down. Barry stayed on high ground and contemplated the erosion. The lone pine probably wonders also how much longer it has before the sand washes from beneath its roots. Barry departed soon thereafter and caught a ride with David (Daydreaming) to the grocery store. I spent another hour or so following the trails through the woods and exploring every opening down to the water. Warm sunshine, a light breeze, the music of the birds, and a comfy swing combined for a peaceful morning. 

The shoreline was an interesting mix of dead fallen trees and tender young sea grass sprouts. 

Twisted branches shared the area with honeysuckle. Muscadine vines were plentiful and I imagined how sweet those grapes would be in September when they matured. Although there were a few flowers blooming, the day truly belonged to the pines and their cones. I spent a few hours reading on Fiberglass Beach while also watching the boat traffic moving along the ICW. Clouds rolled in by late afternoon and the wind picked up in advance of a front moving through. A few sprinkles fell in the darkness. We plan to leave in the morning, but can also stay another day if we decide not to depart. The "Go or No" decision will be made in the morning. 



Friday, May 2, 2025

A Happy Coincidence

Georgetown, SC to Southport, NC  |  11.4 Hours  |  89.2 Miles  

It was another early morning for the Crossroads crew. I needed a sweatshirt to combat the chilly darkness. The power cord was disconnected and the dock lines readied for departure. We lucked out once again in that the current was slack and there was no wind. We eased off the dock at 6:00am and retraced our tracks through Winyah Bay toward the Atlantic. A heavy dew covered the boat and I took the opportunity to remove at least the top layer of salt spray which has her covered from bow to stern. Three knots of current boosted our speed to 10 knots. The sun rose through a thin layer of clouds and a flock of pelicans followed alongside us. 

We tracked to a waypoint set directly across Long Bay to the mouth of the Cape Fear River. It was a quiet and peaceful morning -- no ships, no dolphins, and no balloons. I admit to dozing off a couple of times after being warmed by the sunshine filtering through the windows. After lunch I moved up to the flybridge and watched the world pass from a higher angle. From that vantage point it was easier to spot a green turtle swimming by and a pod of dolphin jumping to take their position in our bow wave. Today there were two juveniles that enjoyed body surfing in our wake. By 3:30pm clouds had moved in to shield the sun. With a chill in the air, I retreated to the pilothouse as we neared the Cape Fear River. The inlet was a little rolly as we passed Old Baldy (Baldhead Island Lighthouse) to starboard and the Oak Island lighthouse  to port. We turned south on the ICW and a short distance later backed into our slip at South Harbour Village Marina. It was a happy coincidence that were able to catch the celebration of Deltaville friends David and Sue crossing their wake on their Great Loop journey. Family and traveling companions all gathered to share a little bubbly and then have dinner together at the onsite restaurant, Rusty Hooks. We have fond memories of earning our Gold Looper burgee seven years ago and were glad to welcome them to The Club. 



Thursday, May 1, 2025

Where Southern Time Meets Maritime

Fernandina Beach, FL to Georgetown, SC  |  29 Hours  |  217.5 Miles  

We could not have asked for a better morning. We woke up to slack tide and no breeze (notice the vertical emissions from the smokestacks). Dawn was just breaking as we started the engine to get underway. The anchor chain brought quite a bit of grass onboard. I could have sworn that I saw a baby crab jump out of the grass, but could not find it. 

The sun was rising over Amelia Island as we entered the inlet. There was nothing but calm seas as we made our way beyond the jetties. The channel markers remained still. A Coast Guard cutter sped by us on its way to conduct pyrotechnic exercises. I'm not sure what that entailed, but we were instructed to stay 18 miles away. No problem. We turned north and passed behind four shrimp boats busy filling nets with the guests of honor at this weekend's Shrimp Fest.

It was a perfect day on the water. The low humidity made for a comfortable ride. I took my chair out to Fiberglass Beach to read in the sun. While setting everything up, I spotted that elusive crab -- no bigger than a poker chip. I returned him to the sea, and wished him well. In between turning pages pleasant distractions of dolphin, jumping fish, and a small shark fin cutting through the water battled for my attention. We diverted two different times to collect wayward mylar balloons at least 15 miles offshore. The Valentine's heart was totally bleached of color but still full of helium. It bobbed in the waves looking just like a jellyfish to marinelife. We lost internet service, but didn't really miss it during the daylight. We were making great time with the help of a favorable current. The sun descended over Savannah, GA. 

The clouds were again the star of the show. Barry and I swapped watch shifts on our regular schedule through the night. 

When I took the helm at 6:00am the sky was already pink and Venus was shining bright. It was a chilly morning and I had to pull out a sweatshirt as I played Frogger with a very large cargo ship. It was entering Charleston channel and my track was crossing in front of it. A few more RPMs provided sufficient separation. The sunrise looked oddly similar to early stages of last night's sunset. The sweatshirt was gone within an hour of sunrise. Soon we turned into Winyah Bay, riding a strong flood current. Crossroads was moving at over nine knots as we passed the Georgetown Lighthouse, the oldest active lighthouse in South Carolina -- dating back to 1867. As we slowed entering the Wacamaw River, the horseflies arrived to welcome us to the Palmetto State. Barry removed the flyswatters from storage and began swinging. The path to Harborwalk Marina took us between Goat Island and a busy waterfront. We eased onto the dock and efficiently tied up and plugged in the power cord. After lunch and showers we set out for a walk around Georgetown. 

This town is one of our favorite stops, but it had been a few years since our last visit. Our first stop was the visitor center outside the marina. We picked up a walking tour map and checked out a few of the displays. There has been a lot of development during our absence. A panel with Georgetown's slogan of "Where Southern Time Meets Maritime" was backed by a map of the historic district's street grid. Another marker noted that this is the state's third-oldest town, laid out in 1729 and made a port of entry in 1732. The plaque noting "The Four-Way Test" should be required reading for all. As we've seen all up and down the east coast, development threatens to adversely impact the beauty and charm of a seemingly perfect area.

We began by walking down Front Street. The sweet scent of the jasmine filled the air. The canopies of large live oaks trees extended in all directions to offer cover to both the sidewalks and the street. Beautiful houses with manicured lawns and colorful gardens lined every block.

Pansies (with faces) and irises had me thinking of my beds waiting back home. Odd sightings included a half-sized cow statue and a palm tree enveloped by a jasmine vine. We returned to Front Street which sported nice signage and colorful planters. 

Barry returned to Crossroads and I continued on an extended trip up and down the four main streets. The stately town clock chimed the hour as I walked through a busy retail corridor. It was refreshing to see stores that locals actually use. Department stores and furniture stores occupied square footage that similar towns have turned over to T-shirt shops. There were no "big boxes." One of the interesting new businesses was Purr & Pour, a cat cafĂ©. I peeked in the window and said hello to a feline "Walmart greeter" sitting at the doorway. The local theater was busy getting ready for the opening night performance of Nana Does Vegas which looked like a fun show. With more walking up and down streets, lined with historic buildings and interesting landscaping. Colorful annuals planted amongst fronds of a palm was an interesting concept. 

Several houses had roses in full bloom. They are always more stunning against a white picket fence. Unexpectedly, I came across a South Carolina Champion Oak. The 600 year old tree with a 23-foot circumference was a bit hard to see behind the house. Also surprising was seeing a "roomba" mower. It did a fine job on the small, flat yard. Multiple houses of worship representing all the major denominations lined Highmarket Street. The lighting was only good on one side so there are pictures of St. Mary Our Lady of Ransom Catholic Church (1899) and the stained glass restoration taking place at Prince George Winyah Church (1721). 

Eventually I made my way back to the waterfront boardwalk and returned to Crossroads. Interesting decorations on the bow pulpit of a docked sailboat brought speculation as to its relationship to Purr & Pour. Large turtles sunned on a log. After a quick change of clothes we met up with Deltaville friends Sam and Cathy for dinner. We ended the day with a sunset walk along the boardwalk which included a visit to a large fountain and the obligatory selfie. Tomorrow we will continue on our journey home and enter North Carolina.

Tuesday, April 29, 2025

Shrimply The Best

Fernandina Beach   

After a great night's sleep we were ready to get out for a refreshing walk around town. We lowered the dinghy and crossed the anchorage to the city marina. A short distance later we were at the Welcome Center. We walked up and down Centre Street admiring the colorful flowers and lush green coleus in the many planters. Gladiolus stems in front of the Methodist Church were loaded with bright orange blooms. I continue to be caught off guard by amaryllis bulbs planted directly into the soil. The white clock tower of the Town Hall glowed against the blue sky while the fountain out front sparkled in the sunlight. 

Excitement was building around town for the 60th Isle of 8 Flags Shrimp Festival which will begin on Thursday with a parade and runs through Sunday. Centre Street will be closed to traffic as over 100,000 folks are expected to attend. Every merchant in the Historic Downtown had their windows decorated with appropriately themed artwork.

Local high school art students painted all of the windows. 

The shrimp theme extended into the stores as well. We are slightly upset that we'll miss the festival as it seems like a fantastic event. With almost perfect timing, our ending up back at the marina coincided perfectly with the arrival of our hometown Selene friends Pat and Tom (Slip Away). We enjoyed a tasty extended lunch of BBQ sandwiches on the patio at Happy Tomato Cafe. It is always a treat to spend time with them wherever we are at the time.  

We parted company for an hour or so, but joined together later in the afternoon for a small Selene family reunion. Linda and Joe on 401(Play) joined everyone as Cindy and Steve's (Kallisto) hosted. We all moved up to the flybridge and had a great time visiting. The day got even better around 6:00 when Susie and Todd (past Selene owners, but forever family) arrived in town and stopped by to say hello. How cool was it to have five Selenes represented at this exact time and place? Susie, Todd, Barry, and I walked over to The Boat House for dinner and more catching up on all our news and happenings. As we walked back to the marina before final goodbyes, we met up with Kallisto and 401(Play) for even bigger and longer group goodbyes. After dropping Linda and Joe off at their boat, we returned to Crossroads and raised the dinghy in preparation for an early morning departure. We'll leave at first light and make an overnight run to Georgetown, SC, with a planned Thursday afternoon arrival. Memories of this day in Fernandina Beach will remain as Shrimply the Best.      

Monday, April 28, 2025

An Eventful Trip Up The Florida Coast

Fort Pierce to Fernandina Beach  |  30.9 Hours  |  214 Miles  

The alarm sounded early and we quickly took care of last minute prep. There was a final stash of loose items, taking out the trash, unplugging the power cord, and prepping the dock lines for an easy exit. The dozens of white egrets in the bush off our bow had not even begun to stir as we slipped off the dock at 6:30am. By the time we turned east into the inlet, the sun had risen over the south jetty. Soon it was a glaring ball of fire directly in our line of sight. We were far from the first folks moving. Dozens of center consoles zipped ahead of us on their way to their favorite fishing spot. We took that as a good sign for calm seas.

A wonderfully calm ocean is what we found. A low and gentle swell created our only motion. For the first time in what seems like months, the breeze was from the west. We set a waypoint at Cape Canaveral and settled in for what we knew would be a long two-day journey. Around 11:00, I spotted a dolphin jumping off to our starboard. Then there were two, then three. They excitedly headed in our direction for an opportunity to swim in our bow wave ... and they brought along their friends. 

Barry and I both spent time watching at least 20 dolphin play all around Crossroads. While most were content to escort us north from the bow, some did swim alongside us and gave me a better camera angle. The spotted dolphin stayed with us for close to a half hour before eventually going back to their regularly scheduled activities. We spent much of the day on the flybridge which gave us a great view of fish (saw two mahi in addition to the little guys below which I believe were remora), multiple turtles, flying fish, and one shark fin parting the water. 

The waves built a bit to three-foot, eight-seconds as predicted, and the wind clocked around to the east, but remained low. It was a beautiful travel day.

We reached our waypoint and spotted the rocket on the launchpad. Our next waypoint was entered for Fernandina Beach. The sun set into increasing cloud cover and I headed downstairs for a nap. While I was asleep, Barry watched the rocket launch and booster burnback from the cockpit. I returned to the helm at midnight and was entertained for a few hours by a distant thunderstorm. Heat lightning illuminated the clouds and horizon which was good because there was little apparent wind and it was very humid. We were also out of range for internet service. I was very glad when my shift was over at 3:00am. While I was asleep, we lost the push from the Gulf Stream and slowed down. The passing storms brought rain and clocked the waves around to our nose. I returned for my watch at 6:00am to see the sun eventually climb above the cloud bank. As we passed the St. John's River into Jacksonville, there was a lot of radio chatter as two US Navy Warships (USS Farragut and USS Mason) were returning to their home base of Mayport. We even had the opportunity to scoop up a wayward mylar balloon. Our internet service came back and all was good. 

Right up to the point where a new batch of thunderstorms rolled through. The wind picked up to 20 knots with higher gusts. The waves built to five footers and we were catching a lot of spray. All doors and windows were quickly closed. These conditions were definitely not in the forecasts. Thankfully we were not far from our turn into the St. Mary's River. Actually, conditions got worse before they would get better. The high waves from the east were battling the strong outgoing current to create a roiling cauldron. The autopilot could not hold the course so Barry got a workout by hand steering. He used all the throttle we had and we only managed a slug-like 3.8 knots. By the time we got between the jetties, conditions began to settle. Folks walked the beach in front of Fort Clinch oblivious to the rough conditions around the point. Friendly waves from Pat and Tom (Slip Away) were a great reward for the end of a long morning. We were tired, but thankful for being able to knock out close to 400 miles in 56 hours of run time over four days. We dropped anchor, had lunch, took a nap, and then took showers. Later in the afternoon Linda and Joe on 401(Play) and Cindy and Steve on Kallisto pulled into the anchorage close to us. Selenes are well represented tonight in Fernandina Beach. Steve and Cindy stopped by to say hello as they headed to shore.

I took dinner out of the oven and then we sat back and watched a beautiful sunset, complete with a pair of dolphin.