Emerging From A Morning Fog

St. Augustine   

I came upstairs this morning and was surprised to see a layer of thick, low-level fog on Mantanzas Bay. Only the top of the lighthouse and palms were visible in the orange sky. It took much longer than charted for the sun to rise into view.

Meanwhile the fog was moving north and west to envelope the Bridge of Lions. We set about doing our morning activities. Stretching and a shower were on my list as we prepared for a visit with hometown friends Linda and Bill. They spend their winters here and it has become a nice tradition to meet up with them as we pass through St. Augustine. The day had turned absolutely beautiful with bright sun, clear sky, and a little breeze. Our lunch on the patio at Harry's was wonderful. They graciously drove us to the grocery store so we could pick up a few items. We said our goodbyes quickly in the middle of heavy traffic and I failed to capture our traditional selfie. We certainly enjoyed our visit and appreciate the lift. Walking back to the dinghy, we spotted an Ibis fishing in the shallows. There was plenty of afternoon remaining once we unpacked our purchases so I took my book to Fiberglass Beach for a few hours. When I began we were facing south in an ebb tide. A couple chapters later I found that I was facing the lighthouse to the east and it was slack tide. When I finished my book (Yay!) I was facing the Bridge of Lions to the north, and Crossroads was pointing into a flood tide. All of that occurred at 6:00 just as the bridge opened for the passage of another group of boats and the sun set. All of the day's events wrapped up in the matter of moments.

Another interesting display of colors danced among the cloud formations. The beam from the lighthouse pierced the darkening sky in a much more comforting scene than earlier in the day.  

A Deeper Dive Into The Pool

St. Augustine   

Sunrise this morning coincided with a strong flood tide as seen around the vacant mooring. Our dinghy was stretched tight on the two lines attaching it to Crossroads. Several boats departed the field and I took the opportunity to get an unobstructed shot of the lighthouse. The morning was the best we've had so far this year as it was warm enough to sit out on Fiberglass Beach and read for a couple of hours. After lunch we headed back into town to follow up on several points we learned of on yesterday's trolley tour. We walked down King Street and spotted the original door handles from the Woolworth's. The department store once anchored the Ponce de Leon Shopping Center which opened in 1955. This store was the site of several sit-ins during the Civil Rights Movement. 

A sign on the doors of Trinity Parish welcomed visitors to enter for a tour. We did just that and stepped inside the beautiful sanctuary of the oldest Protestant church in Florida. There are 28 unique stained glass windows lining the perimeter, the first one installed in 1859. Ten windows were crafted in Munich, Germany and one was made and signed by Louis Comfort Tiffany. As usual I also asked about the organ. The current model with 2,349 pipes was installed in 1967 and renovated in 1996 to be a hybrid pipe and digital organ. The carillon plays a song daily on the quarter-hour. At 12:30 and 5:00, it plays a 30-minute program. We've had the pleasure of hearing the extended version several times. Today's ultimate destination was the Lightner Museum which is housed in Henry Fagler's former Hotel Alcazar. The entrance through the courtyard is nothing short of spectacular. A fountain takes centerstage, and long arched corridors run along each wing. Inside the four-story casino, historical photos tell the story of the hotel's glory days. Folks back in those days did not travel light.  

I admit that my main curiosity with this property was the indoor swimming pool, the world's largest at the time of construction. A large historical photo serves as the backdrop for the museum entrance. Water filled the basin from artesian wells. Divers jumped from the second floor Ballroom balcony. Today the pool is dry and home to the restaurant Cafe Alcazar.

Hotel Alcazar closed with the onset of the Depression in 1931, then was reopened in 1948 by publisher and collector Otto Lightner. He was an advocate for hobbies and amassed a large personal collection of fine and decorative art and natural specimens. There was an exhibit of early bicycles, including this 1886 model that had a 42-inch rear wheel. Of course there were more Tiffany lamps. This massive secretary has over 200 drawers. I'd never be able to find anything with that many stashing options. Winston Churchill's lion is preserved in a case on the first floor. 

One exhibit that surprised me was the glass gallery. I had not seen such a large collection since my mom cleaned out her hutch. Seriously, though, there was an interesting hands-on display that explained the difference between Blown & Cut, Pressed & Cut, and Pressed glass. We exited back through the courtyard and a large azalea bloom caught my eye in the warm sunshine. Back on Crossroads, I took advantage of another hour in the sun and watched as a new group of boats arrived. A loon enjoy a vigorous bath in the still water.

Soft swirling clouds made for an interesting sunset that began as yellow and orange and transitioned to pinks and purples.

All Aboard For A City Tour

St. Augustine   

The Menendez mooring field had filled up since yesterday. Several boats were newly positioned between Crossroads and the eastern shore. As much as I tried, I could not get a good shot of the lighthouse and settled for using the sailboats as the foreground visual interest as the sun rose. St. Augustine is also full of visual interest. Attractions of every type imaginable compete for the visitors' attention. This city is a regular stop on our way south, so we've walked the nearby streets many times. Today we decided to take a guided trolley tour to both expand our area and knowledge. We hopped on at the Cathedral Basilica and proceeded to the Fernandez Llambias House, better known as The Oldest House. The narrow streets made it difficult to photograph, but our driver informed us that it dated back to 1702. We backtracked along Avenida Menenez and learned that Mantanzas Bay was originally called The Bay of Dancing Dolphins. The Casitllo de San Marcos is the oldest masonry fort in the continental United States and the oldest structure in St. Augustine. The fort, with 14-foot thick walls at its base, was originally painted white with a red stripe, in honor of Spain. We had visited it several times before and did not stop there today.

Castle Warden was built in 1887, renovated into a hotel in the 1940s, and in 1950 was purchased by the family of Robert Ripley. The country's first odditorium is now branded as the Ripley's Believe It or Not! Museum. The stainless steel horse that once stood outside the Denver Bronco's Mile-High Stadium has been put out to pasture here in Saint Augustine after being deemed bad luck by the NFL franchise. The trolley continued down Magnolia Avenue, often cited as one of the country's most beautiful streets. The branches of hundred year old oaks, draped in Spanish moss, form a shady arch over the road. The next stop was the infamous Fountain of Youth (also previously visited). A statue of Pedro Menendez de Aviles, founder of Saint Augustine, stands at the front gate. We finally hopped off the trolley at the St. Augustine History Museum. As with most attractions, one must pass through the gauntlet of the gift shop to reach the exhibits.  

Barry and I were both drawn to the Authentic Silver Bar display. I immediately pulled out my phone and found the current price of silver to be $31.05/ounce -- yielding a current value of $32,888. Other items were commonplace for such museums: broken pottery, swords, dioramas, and period-dressed figures. We had the most fun with the pane of glass that had "costumes" affixed to it ... 

... and the stockade and old jail. Back on the trolley we headed for St. George Street to walk around for a while. Barry was drawn in by the free spirit tastings while I settled into a chair in the sun and listened to music coming from a restaurant. He was gone so long, I worried that he'd been talked into purchasing a timeshare. Thinking it might be good for him to sit and ride for a while, we found another trolley and headed to an area that we had never visited. Henry Flagler was an American industrialist, founder of both Standard Oil and the Florida East Coast Railway, and a key figure in the development of Saint Augustine. Grace United Methodist Church (1887), Ancient City Baptist Church (1895),

and Flagler Memorial Presbyterian Church (1889) were all built by or with the assistance of Flagler. His grand namesake church was constructed as a memorial to his only daughter. It has a copper dome and houses a notably-large pipe organ. Flagler, his first wife, daughter, and granddaughter are all buried in the onsite mausoleum. Blocks from the churches stands the former Ponce de Leon Hotel, now the centerpiece of Flagler College. The first landmark our driver highlighted was the smokestack used by four generators supplied by Thomas Edison. Turns out this hotel had electricity three years prior to the White House in Washington, DC. Outside the college is, you guessed it, a statute of Henry. Flagler College is a small (2,400 students) private, liberal arts school that was founded in 1968.

Across King Street from the college is the current day Lightner Museum, which began as Flagler's second hotel, Hotel Alcazar. We departed Flagler's corner of town and entered Lincolnville, an area deeply influenced by the civil rights activities of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. with several references to Ray Charles as well. The neighborhood also contains a large sampling of Victorian houses.

We took one of the last trolleys back to St. George Street and capped off our day with a refreshing treat. We sat on a bench in the sun enjoying our Dole Whip, watching the many people (and dogs) walking by, and listening to more live music from a nearby patio. The temperature had risen to near 70 degrees and we were both carrying our jackets as we returned to the marina. An egret was positioned in the shallows at the base of the sea wall. We returned to Crossroads in time for Barry to change the spark plugs in the dinghy. We took it out for a quick test drive and were pleased that it was running much smoother. I even had an hour left to set on the upper deck and read a few chapters in the sun. A good end to a good day. 

 

Our First Sunrise in St. Augustine

St. Augustine   

Barry and I have been very fortunate to experience daybreak in many locations, from Canada to the Bahamas. I can honestly say that a Saint Augustine sunrise is at the top of my list. There's just something special about the morning's colors serving as a background to the St. Augustine Lighthouse and palm trees to the east. To the west, the glowing streetlights and buildings provide their own take on a light show.   

We worked on a few projects this morning before heading to shore for another walk around town. As we exited the dock at the city marina, the tower of the city's first and only skyscraper grandly appeared through the trees. The Treasury on the Plaza was built in 1926 (the same year as the Bridge of Lions) and was home to a bank until it was converted to a private event venue in 2014. Next door is the Cathedral Basilica of St. Augustine -- America's First Catholic Parish, founded in 1565. Its Spanish-influenced façade always pops against the blue sky. In the adjacent garden stands a statue of Father Pedro Camps, the spiritual leader who kept the Catholic faith alive in Florida during the British occupation that ended in 1784. High up on the streetlamp was our trip's first occurrence of bougainvillea.   

We turned onto St. George Street, a pedestrian-only area that is lined with restaurants, shops, museums and attractions. We got an overview as we passed quickly under the flags and by the Oldest Wooden Schoolhouse en route to the Old City Gate. The two large pillars at the north end of St. George Street were built by residents in 1808 out of coquina shells as a line of defense against attacks.  

A quick trip was made through the Visitor Information Center to get ideas on what to see and do during our stay. On the grounds was a large Death Star-looking orb. Turns out it was a monument to the Old Spanish Trail Zero Milestone which ended in San Diego, California. Also of interest was the Fuente de los Caños de San Francisco. The set of six masks that decorate the fountain was a gift from the City of Avilés, home of Pedro Menéndez, founder of St. Augustine. We retraced our path back to St. George Street. Every business was competing for the attention of folks casually strolling and enjoying the day. There were giveaways of "free" soap and pizza. Signage promoted every claim to fame. Most buildings were adorned with plaques proclaiming their historical significance. Cigars were being rolled as we watched. Local goods were on display. I found a bench in the strong warm sunshine to be the best discovery of the day. 

Colorful Spanish pottery was being sold in a courtyard. Century-old walls constructed of shells have survived the test of time. The St. Photios Greek Orthodox National Shrine is dedicated to the first colony of Greek immigrants who came to America in 1768. Greek Landing Day is celebrated on June 26 of each year. Out of the walking mall, we continued on St. George Street back toward the marina. Picturesque Trinity Parish Episcopal Church, founded in 1821, is Florida's first Protestant and first English-speaking church. Colorful private residences occupied side streets. We made our way back to Crossroads in time for me to enjoy a few hours of reading in the sun. Clouds moved in before sunset, dropping the temperature and obscuring much of the evening's light show. We should sleep well again tonight with calm water and no need for the heat pump and generator. I'm already looking forward to tomorrow's sunrise.

A Day of Firsts

Fernandina Beach to St. Augustine  |  8.25 Hours  |  57.4 Miles   

I was on deck as dawn broke with splashes of pink and orange. I came out in my usual five-layers on top and snow pants only to discover that I was hot. That was a first for this trip. I happily peeled a few layers and changed into jeans. Crossroads eased off the dock and we were on our way, once again fortunate that our departure coincided with a slack current. There was not a ripple caused by wind or current in the anchorage. Our wake accounted for the only disturbance of the water.  

The passage out of St. Mary's Inlet was beautiful. The sun rose into a cloud bank and illuminated the sky. A few dolphin picked us up and led the way into the Atlantic. The local shrimp boats were already hard at work with their nets lowered into the water. 

We set a waypoint -- due south to Saint Augustine -- and settled in for the easy ride. There was no wind and the swells were low and gentle. As we approached Jacksonville, we saw the silhouette of US Navy Warship 116 (the guided missile destroyer USS Thomas Hudner) as it left Mayport Naval Station and headed east in front of us. The travel conditions were ideal, but there were only a few boats on the water. Two sailboats were behind us and multiple shrimp boats farmed the area close to the coast. The birds were more than excited to consume a portion of the harvest. 

The miles clicked off quickly as we watched larger shrimp boats drag their nets in circular patterns. Soon the silhouette of the Saint Augustine Lighthouse appeared on the horizon. We began timing our arrival for the bridge opening and slowed down a bit allowing us to check out the wildlife. Dolphin were actively fishing in the shallows. An osprey watched over passing boat traffic. 

Crossroads was the only boat to pass through the 3:00 opening of the Bridge of Lions. We received our mooring ball assignment and readied for the first attempt of the year to pick up the pendant (actually the first in two years). I'll give myself a B with high marks for composure, but a few deductions for execution. The best part was we were secure and had a great view of the lighthouse. We were most nervous for the next step which was lowering the dinghy into the water for the first time. That also went off without a hitch -- and started easily. Yay! We took the dinghy to the dock, checked in with the office, and went on a little walk. We both wore jackets, but soon found ourselves removing them not too far into the stroll. We stood in the picture line at one of the lion statues at the foot of the bridge without jackets. Also a first. It is very obvious that my skin has not seen sun in an awful long time. I will start working on that situation tomorrow. Bright yellow snapdragons were among the many flowers planted in front of the restaurants along Avenida Menendez.

We both put our jackets on for the dinghy ride back to Crossroads. By the time we returned onboard, the sun was barely visible over the trees and the temperature was dropping. We enjoyed watching the lighthouse beacon shine as the boats in the anchorage began to fade into darkness. This was our first day in St. Augustine. We will be here a few more days and hope to visit many spots for the first time. 

A Sunday Walkabout

Fernandina Beach     

One of the Selenes we passed yesterday on our way in was Slip Away. We were excited to meet up with our homeport friends Pat and Tom for lunch. It was not so chilly in the sunshine so we enjoyed a warm spot on a bench awaiting our their arrival then walked to a nearby restaurant for lunch. The hostess convinced us that a spot on the back patio would be perfect as it was in the sun and there was a fireplace. The food and conversation were great, but all four of us agreed it was nowhere near as warm as advertised. I spent a few minutes perched on the hearth before we left. We're just not south enough. We again bid each other farewell until spring. Pat and Tom will stay in Fernandina Beach for a while longer. Barry and I took one last walk through this charming town. City Hall is surprisingly quaint. Winter porch decorations don't seem so far out of place this year, but palm trees are still our favorite sight.   

The clock tower on the Historic Courthouse shone brightly against the deep blue sky. Three large churches are located within blocks of each other. Memorial United Methodist Church was established in 1822 and is the oldest Methodist Church in Florida (their current building is 100 years younger). St. Peter's Episcopal Church held its first service in March 1884, and is called the "Crown of Centre Street." The congregation of First Presbyterian Church worships in the oldest church building in Fernandina Beach. The original bell still tolls in the bell tower.

Backtracking on Centre Street we enjoyed all the storefronts decorated in natural, holiday, and historical themes.

The Lesesne House is a grand Classical Revival style residence built around 1860 and is one of the oldest homes in Fernandina Beach. Sitting in the sunshine and watching people pass was all the excitement we needed today. Back at the marina, the sign touting "Always Florida's 1st Sunset" had us scratching our heads and asking Google for clarification. We found references to the statement, but no supporting facts. To us it seems geographically impossible. That question will remain unanswered.

This area is a fishing hotspot. A record catch board is on display by the marina office and a large shark statue hangs over the dock. It only appears to be eating a piling. We had a few boat chores left to complete before dark. Barry changed the impeller on our generator and got it up and running. I vacuumed and moved some provisions up from the commissary. Sunset came and so did a large number of observers to our floating dock. Tonight's light show did not disappoint.

The orange sky lingered long after the sun dropped below the horizon. The Amelia River was flat and mirrored the color of the sky. We will depart early tomorrow morning, hop back into the Atlantic, and make a short day trip to St. Augustine.

Hello, Florida. We've Missed You.

Beaufort to Fernandina Beach  |  20.3 Hours  |  118 Miles   

Beaufort remained frozen, but the offshore weather looked great for an overnight passage to Florida. The morning was spent cleaning, stowing, and waiting for the strong sunshine to melt more ice. We decided to attempt another trek to the grocery store. Thankfully, the entire quarter-mile length of the main dock was clear of ice when we departed. The marina office and restaurant were still closed, but the snow did not delay the USPS from the "swift completion of their appointed rounds". We gingerly made our way out of the heavily shaded and icy neighborhood streets to the main road which was clear. The sidewalks and parking lots were still a challenge. We took it slow and managed to check off all of our boxes at West Marine and Piggly Wiggly. (Very convenient for transients, an Ace Hardware and Rose's are also in the strip mall only a mile from the marina.) Our return trip was slushier and not quite as cold. We were glad to find the marina office staff had arrived. After putting away our purchases and having a quick bite of lunch, we dug our power cord and docklines out of the ice and headed over to the fuel dock at slack current. At $2.70 a gallon, it was in our best interest to top off the tanks with 300 gallons since we won't see prices that low again. A gull escorted us off the Port Royal Landing fuel dock at 3:10 pm. We passed the Marine Corps Recruit Depot Parris Island as I cleaned up the last of the docklines and fenders. 

No, that is not a white sand beach along the shore of the Beaufort River, but snow. No, that is not a white can channel marker. The birds have been busy white-washing it. Yes, we were tired of everything appearing white. Our first goal of this passage was to be in the Atlantic by dark and we were. The sun set out our starboard window. Time, speed, and distance calculations were done for our arrival at the Fernandina Beach inlet around 10:00 am so we could dock at slack current. We would have an easy, fuel-efficient night traveling at six knots. Our three-hour watch periods passed quickly. It was a perfect night offshore. One foot waves with an eight second period made for a smooth ride. There was minimal wind. The sky was completely clear and dense black, allowing the stars and planets (especially Mars) to shine brilliantly all night. The crescent moon rose around 3:00 am to provide just enough horizon to help me keep my bearings. We were close enough to shore to have internet and there were only two boats around us all night. My 6:00 am watch allowed me to enjoy the transition from night to day.

The sunrise was interesting if not easy to capture. Soon smokestacks from the paper mill on Amelia Island appeared on the horizon. We crossed into Florida and arrived at the inlet on schedule. Dolphin led us up the St. Mary's River. It had actually warmed up enough for me to go out and take a look at them playing in our bow wave. A dredge was working in the channel ...

... and so was a shrimp boat. I spotted someone walking the brown sand (not white) beach. The guns at Fort Clinch State Park still guard the inlet. As we turned south into the Amelia River and spotted two Selenes docked up a creek. 

The current had dissipated when we crossed in front of the WestRock plant which occupies 216 acres on Amelia Island. We found it interesting that this location accounts for 8% of WestRock's total production. About 30% of the Fernandina Beach output of kraft liner, white top liner, corrugating medium and kraft paper for bags is exported, primarily to the Caribbean. We had another easy docking thanks to perfect timing of the current. We immediately started in on our To Do List. Barry hurled some ice chunks of his own from the pilot house roof into the water. We filled up our water tanks for the first time in a month. All other marinas have had their dock water turned off because of sub-freezing temperatures. (We had actually run out of water just hours before our arrival.) While tidying up the docklines I noticed the HMS Beagle across the way and had to smile. Although eight vessels in the Royal Navy have been so named -- most notably the one that took Charles Darwin around the world -- it seems most fitting that this sailboat would have Snoopy on the transom. 

Soon we closed up Crossroads and began a quick loop around the historic district. We always look forward to the walk along Centre Street with its eclectic mix of retail, restaurants, history, and nature. The day was warmer, but still not warm. Sweaters and jackets were still required. 

We had a late lunch/early supper at our customary spot. The bright sunshine baked us through the windows of the enclosed patio ... and we actually got hot! Back on Crossroads we settled in and watched the cormorants and pelicans as the sun dropped into the seagrass. We have made it back to the Sunshine State and that is a big morale booster. We will explore more of Fernandina Beach tomorrow. 

Digging Out

Beaufort     

The icicles we removed yesterday from the pilothouse roof had regrown overnight. The longest one approached two feet, well exceeding the length of our 18-inch ruler. Trying to make light of this frozen mess, we recalled the "icicle through the eyeball" scene in Die Hard 2. Movie references are one of our favorite sources of banter. I knew my one task for the day was to dig out the Portuguese bridge and bow. I did my stretching, laid out a large pile of clothes to layer up in, and then waited for noon. It was still overcast, freezing, and breezy, but it was game time. The ice remained thick on the vertical surface, and our 17-inch fender balls were still mostly buried. I climbed over the railing and slid down to the starting position. It was a gentle and controlled descent -- like a penguin moving across an ice shelf. The four inches of accumulated frozen mix did not crinkle or crack. It was solid! My own Fiberglass Iceberg.

I began chipping away with my trusty OXO silicone turner. (Silicone used so it wouldn't damage our fiberglass.) At first, I could only get small pieces to release and progress was slow. I got really excited when I freed an occasional large chunk, but then was shocked at its weight. A lot of effort was required to first position and then pitch the iceberg over the side into the Beaufort River. Barry walked up to the marina office, only to find it was again closed because of the snow. I was still tossing chunks when he returned to Crossroads. He noted how I had a long line of small icebergs floating down the length of the dock. Eventually I peeled off my hoodie (leaving three layers) and completed the mission by 2:30.

After my hands thawed, we made the decision to walk to Piggly Wiggly. We have a ton of food onboard, but have been out of fresh fruits, veggies, and milk for a while now. It felt good just to put my feet on land even if it was covered in snow. Spanish moss densely draped the trees. The brilliant red Nandina berries were a welcome splash of color. The roads, however, were in no shape to make the mile walk so we returned to Crossroads for the rest of the afternoon. Tonight's sunset was small, but interesting. We will depart tomorrow afternoon for an offshore overnight hop to Fernandina Beach, FL. We're looking forward to being in the Sunshine State. It will still be cold, but the temperatures will stay above freezing. That's an improvement. 

Note: Since we will be offshore tomorrow night, there will be no post. I'll pick back up Saturday night when we reach Fernandina Beach.  

Did You Pack A Snow Shovel?

Beaufort     

The night was quite bouncey as the wind and current were in opposition, creating choppy waves on the Beaufort River. The sleet I heard on the cabin top roof during last night's blog posting was soon silenced, signaling a significant accumulation of the frozen mix. At today's first light I peered out a master port and saw the most unwelcome sight -- three inches of frozen white stuff on the dock. A quick trip around Crossroads looking out all the windows revealed that we were encrusted in a thick layer of ice. Icicles were growing from every vertical surface, including the tips of our windshield wipers. I did not open any doors as it felt like 19 degrees outside at 7:38. These conditions were exactly what we've been trying to escape.  

We kept watch on the ice-covered docks as blue sky returned accompanied by bright sunshine.

Thanks to the strong sun, melting began in earnest and our icicles grew longer and more plentiful. We still had no desire to go outside and survey the scene. Despite the sunshine, the temperature and wind chill had each dropped by 10:11. Knowing we had to eventually go outside and deal with the ice, I searched our supplies for anything that could be used to dig us out. A snow shovel was not part of our supplies provisioning. Today, our excavation tools would be a plastic dustpan and an OXO silicone turner. Barry bravely stepped onto the dock to check our Bimini and solar panels, and to adjust our docklines. 

Following lunch, Barry scooped out our cockpit as I went around and removed the lethal daggers threatening to impale us. I took over and carved out the remainder of our deck. The dust pan proved to be of limited help. Success was gained by chipping the ice into manageable portions and tossing them overboard. Some sections were more manageable than others. The final step was to sweep the decks with the broom to get as much water off as possible. As darkness fell, all liquid was again transitioning to ice. As I said the deck is clear. We do have a major issue to resolve tomorrow. The vertical portion of the Portuguese bridge is still buried under a quarter inch of ice, with a foot-deep accumulation of frozen mix at its base. As it stands now we cannot open the door to get onto the bow. The plan is to climb over the rail and scoop out the ice until that the door will open. I'm definitely not looking forward to that task, but once it is completed we will be able to depart for Florida. The only white I want to see after this is white sand beaches.

Going With The Flow

Charleston to Beaufort  |  8.1 Hours  |  60.5 Miles   

The day began with good fortune on our side as first light and slack current coincided. We made the most of this and had cast off from the Charleston Mega Dock by 7:00. The marinas in the Low Country have floating docks because of the huge tidal range so it is often lost on us what a five foot swing looks like. This morning we were able to appreciate that five foot tidal drop as we passed pilings, docks, and other fixed structures with their understructures exposed. We were very thankful there was plenty of water depth in the channel ... and that the current was giving us a good push.

Scenery is scarce along this section of the ICW as low marsh grasses and mud flats dominate. We were surprised by the number of dolphin swimming along with us in the 48-degree water. I guess they were just trying to stay warm. We were doing the same in the pilothouse with the heater taking the chill out of the air. Stevens Towing on Yonges Island provided multiple points of interest as we passed by their yard. The huge barge in the dry dock first caught our eye, then the multiple landing crafts docked beside it. As we got closer, we noticed a very large crack down the midline of the barge (probably why its in the yard). Anchored across the the ICW channel was the American Waterways Wind Orchestra floating arts center. A quick Google search elicited a "Wow" from both of us. Who knew? Crossroads chased off plenty of cormorants and gulls that were wading in our path. We were surprised to spot a lone bald eagle, but managed to pick up the camera in time to get a not-so-sharp photo.      

All day long we lucked out and seemed to have the current in our favor. We spent quite a while over 9 knots (really fast for us) and found ourselves just going with the flow. The sky never cleared, and the thick gray clouds sure made it look like snow was eminent. 

The route today was quite curvy with many switchbacks along a meandering network of rivers. We had to keep focused on the channel markers to guide in the deep(er) water channel. We had three charts active on the helm, and I was referencing the printed chart book and Google maps on my phone. At one point I checked to see where we were in relation to our destination and laughed when seeing that we just needed to go "Attaway." The only nail-biting shallows we encountered all day were in Watts Cut. It is never good to see that much orange and red. We exited without incident and exhaled. The development of Edisto Beach was on the horizon just before we turned and transited Fenwick Cut to the Ashepoo River. Barry and I both fondly remembered our cruising friends on Tumbleweed who stated something like, "the only redeeming part of this voyage is getting to say Ashepoo." The sky lightened a bit and the wind laid down as we moved around the top of Lady's Island and turned into the Beaufort River. We were making great time and were thrilled that we would arrive in Beaufort (BEW-fert) ahead of schedule. Winter weather was heading our way and it was both interesting and entertaining to listen to the radio station out of Savannah passing along tips for dealing with the impending wintry mix. Once we passed under the Lady's Island bridge, it began to rain. I went on deck and prepared the docklines and fenders for our arrival at Safe Harbor Port Royal Landing. Once docked, we wasted no time in connecting the shore power and turning on the heat. By nightfall the rain had turned to a wintry mix and there was already accumulation on our caprail. As I write this, sleet/freezing rain is falling quite loudly on the bow over my head. We fully anticipate waking up to find that we're encased in a thick layer of ice. We are thankful we had a good travel day and will stay here until we thaw out and get an offshore window. Next stop: Florida.