A Stop At Sandbar

Rotten Bay to Russell Island   |  2.4 Hours  |  14.5 Miles   

Rotten Bay provided one of the best night's sleep I've had in a while. The calm anchorage and cool temperature had me sleeping in past the moonset and the sunrise. Barry captured a photo of each while I was still covered in a blanket. While waiting for our departure time I read on the upper deck -- bundled up in a long sleeved shirt. I feel only a slight amount of guilt in reporting that goosebumps were present in 74 degrees with low humidity and a light breeze. There were thoughts of digging into the darkest corners of storage to find a pair of socks, but I persevered. Our later than usual departure was to time the tidal change in Current Cut. This small opening in the tip of North Eleuthera provides a short cut for travels further north. The goal is to enter the cut at a slack tide with a minimal current. The approach was accompanied by plenty of light blue shallow water a seemingly short distance to starboard. 

As we neared the opening a lone catamaran was coming our way. The Current Pride was tied up to shore. I was on the bow listening to the Palm Sunday service on livestream. By the time the singing of Hosannah was completed, Barry had lined us up for passage.

When the timing is correct, the Cut really a nonevent as it is wide and deep. We exited around the trees and looked back to see Paradigm Shift finishing their passage. A slight turn to the right took us alongside Lobster Cay. 

Ahead of us was beautiful blue water and Russell Island. Sandbar restaurant came into view and, after a quick chat with Glenda, became our destination. We lowered the dinghy; picked up Glenda, Greg, and The Boyz; and headed for shore. The restaurant was hopping with a combination of water- and land-based visitors. Later we were told this was the only restaurant open today.

We were joined by Robin and Rick (Endangered Species) and all enjoyed beverages, lunch, the scenery, and two additional forms of entertainment. A singer and keyboardist provided music. In the anchorage everyone watched as "the village" tried to free the large blue-hulled center console from the sand. The effort took awhile, but was eventually successful. 

We paused for a final group shot on this beautiful day before loading back into the dinghy. Glenda and I spent a few hours hanging out in Paradigm Shift's cockpit, thankful for these days that we've had together. The sun was setting and it was again getting chilly. Barry picked me up and we returned to Crossroads. The dinghy was raised to the upper deck and I settled in to watch the sunset -- inside and back in the long sleeved shirt. 

You Can't Judge A Bay By It's Name

Governor's Harbour to Rotten Bay   |  4.3 Hours  |  29.5 Miles   

The morning started with a few surprises, the most being ... crab pots! It is stone crab season in The Bahamas and dozens of traps lined our course. Being seasoned veterans of the Chesapeake Bay crab pot minefields, we quickly reverted to our eagle-eyed watch positions and kept lookout for the small volleyball-sized floats. Initially they were not difficult to spot in flat seas and bright sunshine. Soon heavy cloud cover moved in, accompanied by increased winds and a brief rain shower. The floats seemed to hide in the whitecaps and gray sky.

Our ride turned both sporty and salty. We watched through the windshield as Crossroads received several fresh coats of salt spray as we moved directly into the waves. By stepping to our cockpit I was able to capture a shot of Paradigm Shift as she plowed through the choppy water and created an impressive spray. We passed many of our favorite sites from previous years as we moved north along the coast of Eleuthera. Twin Silos marked the position of the Eleuthera Pineapple Farm which we visited two years ago. We wondered how Mr. Russell was doing. A short distance later, we were at the Glass Window Bridge. All looked calm in the small opening between our shallow water of Eleuthera Bight and the deep water of the Atlantic Ocean on the opposite side of the rocks.

In order to get protection from wind and waves coming from the west and shifting to the north, we continued beyond the bridge and anchored off of Lower Bogue in a spot oddly named Rotten Bay. Contrary to its name, we found the anchorage to be just what we were looking for. The sun came back out and the water turned a bright blue. We lowered the dinghy and Barry took me over to Paradigm Shift. Glenda and I enjoyed floating and relaxing in the inflatable chairs for a couple of hours. Barry rejoined us for appys on the upper deck. We returned to Crossroads and raised the dinghy as the sun was setting.

The sunset was pretty, but the view to the east was better. Paradigm Shift was bathed in golden light in front of an impressive cloud bank. A few moments later, the large full moon rose brightly into the evening sky.

A Special Day With The Boyz

White Bluff to Governor's Harbour  |  .5 Hours  |  1.3 Miles   

A peaceful night was what we were looking for in the anchorage behind Levi Island, and that's exactly what we enjoyed. Soon after the sun rose we relocated to Governor's Harbour which was already busy with all sorts of activity. A large "mail boat" was unloading at the government dock as we claimed our anchoring spot. Stacks of newly arrived palletized goods were lined up and down the waterfront. Off our starboard side a flock of birds engaged in a feeding frenzy that lasted several minutes. We lowered the dinghy and prepared for a trip to shore by checking the tide tables. Low tide was to arrive at 1:39 so we anchored in knee-deep water to ensure the dinghy would be floating when we returned. Once onshore we picked up two special companions for the day. While Glenda and Greg enjoyed an afternoon with hometown friends, Barry and I had the pleasure of leading my favorite pups, Jaxon and Cooper (The Boyz), on a tour of the neighborhood. We started out at the Fish Fry which had received a new paint job since the last time we were here. The side streets were our preferred paths to avoid traffic and take advantage of shade. The sun was strong and I feared the pavement would get too hot for their little puppy paw pads.     

Cooper and I took the lead and eagerly explored every new smell. Barry and Jaxon seemed to not have the same sense of urgency. Our first stop was the bakery where Barry went in and picked up a fresh loaf of cinnamon raison bread. The Boyz and I stayed outside in the shade and all three of us enjoyed a water break on the cool concrete. When we started on our way again, I had taken control of both leashes and was definitely in my Happy Place. All along our travels bright red bougainvillea and lush green palms dominated the landscape. Two giant red hibiscus blooms acted as stop signs. The Boyz and I paused and snapped a photo.

Turned out the hibiscus were on the property of Frigates. This restaurant was a long-time fixture in Rock Sound and recently moved to this new location. The Boyz enjoyed laying on the cool stone patio floor while we had lunch. Cooper couldn't understand why there were no crumbs falling his way. Afterwards, our tour continued toward a stand of large palms. We still had a few stops to make. I would not have guessed that a dead palm frond would have been the most interesting thing on our trek, but it sure seemed so to these guys. Barry went into the grocery store while we waited in the shade. I went into the gift shop while Barry and The Boyz stayed outside. We walked across the ball field to the government building and once again rested in the shade with a water break. Barry enjoyed the relaxed pace of today's walk. The sandbar and shallows caught our eye as we walked back along the waterfront road. 

It was more than an hour past low tide, but the water had not yet returned enough to free the dinghy from the sand. Jaxon and Cooper were very patient as Barry and I drug the dinghy out to freedom in knee-deep water. I took The Boyz back home and sat with them for a while. All three of us were tired from our expedition and enjoyed some quiet time. From the upper deck of Paradigm Shift I had a good view of Barry aboard Crossroads. When Glenda and Greg returned, I said "goodbye" to The Boyz and returned to Crossroads to read for a while before dinner. The view of the charming Governor's Harbour waterfront provided a frequent distraction. Activity at the Fish Fry increased and the music spread across the anchorage. A full moon rose to the east, as the sun set in a cloudless sky to the west. An accompanying green flash was a perfect close to a special day. 

Plan B, For Beautiful

Rock Sound to White Bluff  |  4 Hours  |  25.8 Miles   

The clouds moved out overnight and the brilliant blues returned with the morning. We raised the dinghy at 9:00 and headed north behind Paradigm Shift. Once out of the spacious Rock Sound anchorage, it was a quick run to our next stop. Turns out is was too quick as we outran the anticipated change of direction in of the wind/waves. The waves from the west had not diminished by the time we reached the entrance to Governor's Harbour. If we had stopped, it would have been a rolly anchorage. We continued a little further north and sought protection in the lee of Levi Island off of White Bluff. It was low tide when we dropped our anchor. The large sandbar was almost awash. I found my place on Fiberglass Beach and finished off a book while frequently looking out over the water.

This Plan B anchorage turned out to be beautiful. The afternoon passed quickly, the wind eventually clocked around to the northeast, and soon it was time for dinner. As I prepared chicken in the skillet, Barry and I laughed at the indispensible OXO silicone turner I was using. With the help of Google, I found it was 77 days ago that I had used it to chip the ice off our bow in Beaufort, SC. We were untangling our bridle and unknotting our anchor chain as the sun set behind Levi Island. I finished resetting the anchor just as the sun was highlighting the upper edge of the cloud. Tomorrow morning we'll relocate around the corner to Governor's Harbour.

The Bahamas, Unsaturated

Rock Sound   

So far on this trip, we haven't had many days where the clouds failed to move out and the sky did not eventually clear. That made today's weather a tiny bit more bearable. Overnight rain ushered in heavy cloud cover which blocked the sunlight and created an unsaturated landscape. Gone were the many shades, tints, hues, and tones of blue. The shifting wind had made the anchorage unsettled and we elected not to go to shore. We tried to keep busy with the undesirable tasks of wiping down the exterior of Crossroads and dusting and vacuuming the interior.  

After lunch I did spend a little time outside reading before a rain shower passed through and chased me inside. By late afternoon, the heaviest clouds had disappeared and at least one adventurous soul took advantage of the improved conditions -- and added some color back into the day (photo courtesy of Glenda). We'll raise the dinghy in the morning and move 20(ish) miles north to Governor's Harbour.

Treasure Hunting

Rock Sound   

It was a beautiful day to explore. Barry and Greg knew that Glenda and I were geared up for a long walk across the island to and along the beach, and they elected not to participate. Barry shuttled us girls to the dinghy dock and we made our way down Queens Highway and turned onto Fish Street. A local artist had many outdoor paintings on display including a map of the area and a welcome sign. Fish Street is a long, straight, paved, and direct line across the highest point of the island. A short walk from the end of the road on a sandy path through the trees completed the trip to Pink Beach. We were coming off a high tide, but there was still plenty of soft sand to walk along. We headed north first. Large rocky ledges offshore kept the waves small. After the long walk, it was refreshing to splash barefooted in the surf.   

As the sand ended, beautiful palm trees on a private estate rose above the dunes. The real find was the large stretch of sand with a very pronounced pink coloration. The pink comes from the shells of the tiny marine organism foraminifera mixing with the white sand. 

We reversed course and headed south. The sand gradually transitioned to a rocky moonscape. Our bare feet were soon protected by flip flops as we walked head down looking for treasures in the crevices and tidal pools. We made a great haul of sea glass to add to Glenda's collection, sometimes prying free large pieces seemingly "stuck" in nooks and crannies. The biggest surprise was when I found a large sea bean sitting all alone in clean sand. By far the most valuable treasure was the new memories made while just hanging out together. On our way back to the harbor, we stopped at Hall's Grocery and picked up a few things. By the time we returned to the dinghy dock we had completed the Rock Sound 10k (6.2 miles). Barry picked us up and transported our hot and tired bodies back to our respective boats. Hydration, showers, and a little rest were enjoyed for the next few hours. 

We gathered aboard Paradigm Shift to visit with the pups and for a great dinner in the cockpit. I watched the sun set through the aft hawse hole for a different perspective. To cap off the evening we were treated to a serving of Glenda's homemade ice cream. She is the hostess with the mostest and a true treasure.   

Doing It Here Was Extra Special

Rock Sound   

Today's storyline could have just as easily taken place in the middle of a Virginia summer. That fact that everything occurred in The Bahamas made it extra special. A few morning chores were completed before I met up with Glenda for a walk to Market Place Store. Fresh produce was being stocked as we walked in the door and we quickly checked off most of the items on our lists. Our biggest conundrum was whether to splurge on the large bags of fruit or the half gallons of juice knowing that we'd have to carry our purchases back to the dinghy dock. We chose smartly and were able to get everything into the large bags we brought along. When we returned to the dinghy dock I spotted Crossroads through a gap in the trees. What could be better? A few more steps revealed the answer -- Paradigm Shift a short distance away. After a quick reset and a visit with the pups, we gathered our laundry and headed back into town. We combined for four loads at 3Ts and had the most enjoyable wait visiting with "Showboat," the owner. He spent his early years as a member of the Bahamian national fast pitch softball team and travelled extensively. The former center fielder is a huge New York Yankees fan and we tossed names back and forth of all the Yankee greats through the years. Once again, the Bahamians we meet in our travels are just as beautiful as the scenery.

We got our steps in today and received bonus points for carrying the bags. We had an hour or so back onboard to put away our laundry before meeting at Wild Orchids for a delicious dinner on the deck. All four of us enjoyed the seafood pasta (and the wonderful staff). On a quick walk around the building the white blossoms of a plumeria caught my eye. A final farewell and selfie on the dock closed a great day. Later, Glenda and I got a good laugh at the photo. I can only chuckle at the wild hair, and treasure the memory of a special day. It is what it is, and hours of Photoshop were not in the cards. We arrived back at the motherships in time to enjoy a nice sunset from the flybridge.

Island Hopping

New Bight, Cat Island to Rock Sound, Eleuthera  |  10.3 Hours  |  76.6 Miles   

A chorus of roosters provided our early morning wake up call. I was on deck at first light and we had pulled away from Cat Island before even a hint of orange appeared in the sky. Heavy cloud cover prolonged the sunrise and created richer colors. The sky eventually transitioned to blue, but the clouds remained for a few more hours. We set the autopilot for our hop to the southern tip of Eleuthera, the next large island north. No rain was in the forecast, but Barry was fortunate enough to catch a rainbow -- a result of the sun hitting the edge of the pilothouse window at just the right angle. We joked about chasing and finding the mythical associated treasure.

The waves were low in a following sea which made for a pleasant ride. We took turns on watch and when Barry had the helm, I moved to the flybridge and enjoyed the sunshine. Most of the day was spent in the open water of Exuma Sound with very little scenery. We passed Carnival's Half Moon Cay on Little San Salvador and could only make out the white sand beach in the distance. Waves built as we moved from the lee of Cat Island. By noon we had spotted rocky Lighthouse Point at the southern end of Eleuthera. The beachside cabins' colorful roofs at Disney's port occupied the sandy beach. A short distance north, colorful umbrellas signaled the location of Princess Cays. It was odd to see all three cruise ship ports empty and void of the massive cities of the water. The ships will arrive overnight. Boat traffic picked up as we neared Powell Point and the Cape Eleuthera Resort and Marina. 

We turned east into Davis Channel and passed the familiar Stone Beacon perched on a sandbar. We also turned into the wind and our pleasant ride turned into a salty one as wind-driven waves sent spray over the bow and onto the windshield. The cargo ship Vi Nais passed us outbound from the Rock Sound dock. We followed our old tracks into the familiar anchorage and found our "pot of gold." Paradigm Shift had arrived a short time before us. After our anchor was set Glenda and Cooper shouted hello, and boy did it sound good after our longest day on the water since arriving in The Bahamas. Following showers and dinner, we watched our first Eleuthera sunset from the cockpit. We're hoping the cargo ship dropped off some fresh produce. A grocery run is on tap for tomorrow when we go to shore.

A Slow Day For A Change

New Bight  

The wind continues to be brisk. Overnight, it whipped our flag into a tattered knot. Unfortunately we do not have a replacement, so we'll have to nurse it along for another month. After hitting the highlights of the area yesterday, our morning was slow. I polished our stainless steel bimini frame and removed a few obnoxious spots on the fiberglass. After that, I retreated to my Happy Place on Fiberglass Beach and split time between staring at the water, watching the clouds, reading the first 100 pages of a new book, and, maybe, a Cat (island) nap or two. 

Around 2:00 we gathered up our trash and took the dinghy to shore to stretch our legs. The wind was much calmer on land and it even seemed a bit warm. Barry dropped off the trash and then we went for a stroll up the beach. New today were a group of gulls circling and then strolling on the sand. We walked further north than we did yesterday, before turning around and heading back to the dinghy. 

Once back on Crossroads we raised the dinghy to the upper deck in preparation for tomorrow's early morning departure. The sun set in spectacular fashion on our time in Cat Island. Tomorrow we will make the long run to Eleuthera, a sign that our time in The Bahamas is running short. Back at home, our wonderful neighbor Ken cut our grass for the first time. A check of the camera showed the cherry tree has leafed out, the tulip magnolias are blooming, and my peonies have foot-high shoots. The azaleas will be turning red soon. Once the pollen is gone, it will be safe to return.

A Climb To The Highest Peak ... Rewarded

Old Bight to New Bight  |  .9 Hours  |  4.1 Miles   

A pretty sunrise ushered in the day. We upped anchor a little past 8:00 and made our way four miles north on Cat Island to the more commercialized town of New Bight. While setting the anchor I noticed a large sign being installed on the beachfront. Once we got to shore we took a good look at what is going to be a beautiful sign with colorful letters and the historic tower of Mt. Alvernia serving as the "I." I spoke with an on-site worker and learned that only the electrical work remains to be completed. Hopefully by next week the black plastic will be removed. I cannot wait to see it -- next year. After a quick stop to put on my sneakers, we walked a short distance up the road, and past the sweeping palm tree, to Olive's Bakery. To avoid the possibility of being sold out later in the day, we purchased her famous almond pound cake and stored it in the backpack.

Our main destination was in view from sea level. We set off up the paved road and enjoyed the sights along the way. Wildflowers were plentiful and both the purple spurred butterfly pea and bright yellow damiana caught my eye. Further up the road, our ears were alerted to the next points of interest. Several goats were tethered along the road. They were quite talkative, but not aggressive. The road took us to a path which led up to Como Hill, the highest point in The Bahamas at 206-feet above sea level.

Sitting atop the hill, also known as Mt. Alvernia, is The Hermitage. Monsignor John Hawes, a Roman Catholic priest and skilled architect and sculptor known to locals as Father Jerome, built the small medieval monastery in 1939 as a place to get away from the world. The next uphill segment of the trail was lined mainly with tall trees, although a small palm was also present. The path veered to the right to follow the rocky "Stations of The Cross" trail to the top. Elaborate hand carved stone monuments marked the 14 Stations of The Cross, each one representing a different moment in Jesus' Passion and Death. Station 1 (Condemned to Death), Station 2 (Carries the Cross), and Station 3 (Falls for the First Time) were all placed on relatively flat ground. After that narrow rock steps led upward with frequent switch-backs.

Lush plants grew in the rock. Although all Stations are represented for a bit of brevity, I've only included the more dramatic ones here. Station 7 (Falls for the Second Time), Station 8 (Meets the Women), Station 9 (Falls for the Third Time), Station 11 (Nailed to the Cross), and Station 14 (Laid in the Tomb) directed the way to the base of the monastery. 

The blue sky served as a great backdrop. Father Jerome was a small man and he constructed the buildings on a smaller scale. Our first stop was the chapel with a single-seat pew and a small altar. 

Barry signed the attendance register then we walked though the rooms to the other side. I entered the bell tower and swung the rope attached to the clapper to make the bell toll. We were fortunate to be the only ones atop the hill which made for good photo opportunities, both tighter ...

... and wider. Back down the hill we went, looking at more flowers (I love lantana) and more goats.

At sea level, we walked along the main road and looked at the signs as we entered the Fish Fry area. Being Friday afternoon, many of the little food vendors were open. The bar at Duke's Conch Stand was busy, but we had our sights set on a treat we haven't had since we entered The Bahamas. Comforted that Lil Gippy's was open, we continued our walk down the road before eventually cutting over to the beach. 

We approached our final destination from the waterfront and enjoyed two nice cones for only $6 ... total. What a deal! And we were able to enjoy an amazing view along with our treat.

The walk back to the dinghy was done in the surf. This section of beach was coarser and less dense than our previous location. The water was also more exposed to the wind which created more wave action onshore. The tide had risen a bit more than expected and I went out in chest-deep water to bring the dinghy in for Barry.

Back on Crossroads, there was time for showers and a little reading (finally finished latest book), before dinner and sunset. Tonight the orange clouds to the west had some competition from the white clouds and still-blue sky to the east. 

Back For Seconds

Old Bight     

Showers swept through the anchorage shortly after daylight. The clouds, wind, and whitecaps remained for several hours. After lunch the blue sky and sunshine returned and by 2:00 we were in the dinghy heading to shore. Yesterday's walk was so wonderful we came in for a second helping. We anchored just south of Rollezz with our sights set on the southern half of this beautiful crescent beach. Both the dinghy and Crossroads awaited our return.

Barry and I walked barefoot in our standard formation -- him on the dry sand and me in the ankle-deep surf. The surf zone was clean so we scoped out the sand upward to the tree line for interesting items. A makeshift totem constructed of flotsam, tree stumps bleached by the sun's rays, occasional shells like a pair of angel wings, and resilient trees growing from the rocks were all noteworthy. 

There was never a doubt, however, that the main attraction was water. Barry turned back toward the dinghy to begin his assault on another coconut. I continued on to where the sand ended at the rocky entrance to Joe Sound Creek before turning around.

I kept taking photos of the many views that seemed special. Many images look similar, but all will transport me back to this special spot for years to come.

At the end of my two-hour walk I took a dip in the shallows. It doesn't get much better than this. Our dog friend came to visit as we were loading Barry's project into the dinghy. Back onboard he cracked open the coconut and found this one to be a winner. Clouds moved back in for the close of day and muted the sunset. Not wanting to be greedy, we were plenty thankful for a wonderful afternoon.

This Could Be My New Favorite Beach

Old Bight     

From sunset last evening through sunrise this morning we enjoyed a respite from the wind. Crossroads rested quietly in the anchorage with no waves, and no noise from the anchor chain and bridle. I was able to have all the doors open in the pilot house while watching the sun appear over the Cat Island. By 9:00 all of that had changed and the stiff breeze had returned. We had a slow morning onboard with a little cleaning and a couple boat fixes. At noon we were ready to go ashore for lunch at Rollezz Villa Beach Resort. The colorful waterfront cabins made for a scenic trip to the beach -- almost as scenic as our dinghy seemingly hovering above the crystal clear water. 

The resort is very cruiser-friendly. We entered through a beach-front gate onto the beautifully landscaped property. We joined three other cruising couples on the deck for lunch. I had the grouper and Barry had the conch, each came with mashed potatoes, and a freshly-picked garden salad. The meal was absolutely delicious and the atmosphere like no other we've experienced. We watched hummingbirds and curly-tailed lizards moving amongst the palms and bougainvillea against a backdrop of the beautiful Exuma Sound. For after meal entertainment, the resident pup came over for some belly rubs and fell asleep on my foot. 

After saying goodbye to the other folks, Barry and I set out walking along an idyllic stretch of powdery soft yet hard-packed sand. Those conditions were perfect for Barry who removed his Keens to reveal his tiger stripes. Beaches cannot get much prettier than this. Being in the lee of the prevailing easterly winds, there is no wash-up of sea grass or plastic waste to spoil the aesthetic. This definitely could be my new favorite beach.

Only a single ripple came to shore. The waves in the pictures were actually in the sand, not the water. We walked about as far north as possible then turned around to see dark rain clouds moving across the horizon.  

All of the showers passed to our south and we stayed dry throughout our walk and while sitting on the beach swing. The clouds broke up and the sun re-emerged for a few more hours. We returned to Crossroads and opened up all the hatches, doors, and ports so the fresh breeze could blow through the boat. Although the temperature was in the low 80s, the "wind chill" brought out a few goose bumps on my arms as I stood in the cockpit and watched the sunset.