Where Southern Time Meets Maritime

Fernandina Beach, FL to Georgetown, SC  |  29 Hours  |  217.5 Miles  

We could not have asked for a better morning. We woke up to slack tide and no breeze (notice the vertical emissions from the smokestacks). Dawn was just breaking as we started the engine to get underway. The anchor chain brought quite a bit of grass onboard. I could have sworn that I saw a baby crab jump out of the grass, but could not find it. 

The sun was rising over Amelia Island as we entered the inlet. There was nothing but calm seas as we made our way beyond the jetties. The channel markers remained still. A Coast Guard cutter sped by us on its way to conduct pyrotechnic exercises. I'm not sure what that entailed, but we were instructed to stay 18 miles away. No problem. We turned north and passed behind four shrimp boats busy filling nets with the guests of honor at this weekend's Shrimp Fest.

It was a perfect day on the water. The low humidity made for a comfortable ride. I took my chair out to Fiberglass Beach to read in the sun. While setting everything up, I spotted that elusive crab -- no bigger than a poker chip. I returned him to the sea, and wished him well. In between turning pages pleasant distractions of dolphin, jumping fish, and a small shark fin cutting through the water battled for my attention. We diverted two different times to collect wayward mylar balloons at least 15 miles offshore. The Valentine's heart was totally bleached of color but still full of helium. It bobbed in the waves looking just like a jellyfish to marinelife. We lost internet service, but didn't really miss it during the daylight. We were making great time with the help of a favorable current. The sun descended over Savannah, GA. 

The clouds were again the star of the show. Barry and I swapped watch shifts on our regular schedule through the night. 

When I took the helm at 6:00am the sky was already pink and Venus was shining bright. It was a chilly morning and I had to pull out a sweatshirt as I played Frogger with a very large cargo ship. It was entering Charleston channel and my track was crossing in front of it. A few more RPMs provided sufficient separation. The sunrise looked oddly similar to early stages of last night's sunset. The sweatshirt was gone within an hour of sunrise. Soon we turned into Winyah Bay, riding a strong flood current. Crossroads was moving at over nine knots as we passed the Georgetown Lighthouse, the oldest active lighthouse in South Carolina -- dating back to 1867. As we slowed entering the Wacamaw River, the horseflies arrived to welcome us to the Palmetto State. Barry removed the flyswatters from storage and began swinging. The path to Harborwalk Marina took us between Goat Island and a busy waterfront. We eased onto the dock and efficiently tied up and plugged in the power cord. After lunch and showers we set out for a walk around Georgetown. 

This town is one of our favorite stops, but it had been a few years since our last visit. Our first stop was the visitor center outside the marina. We picked up a walking tour map and checked out a few of the displays. There has been a lot of development during our absence. A panel with Georgetown's slogan of "Where Southern Time Meets Maritime" was backed by a map of the historic district's street grid. Another marker noted that this is the state's third-oldest town, laid out in 1729 and made a port of entry in 1732. The plaque noting "The Four-Way Test" should be required reading for all. As we've seen all up and down the east coast, development threatens to adversely impact the beauty and charm of a seemingly perfect area.

We began by walking down Front Street. The sweet scent of the jasmine filled the air. The canopies of large live oaks trees extended in all directions to offer cover to both the sidewalks and the street. Beautiful houses with manicured lawns and colorful gardens lined every block.

Pansies (with faces) and irises had me thinking of my beds waiting back home. Odd sightings included a half-sized cow statue and a palm tree enveloped by a jasmine vine. We returned to Front Street which sported nice signage and colorful planters. 

Barry returned to Crossroads and I continued on an extended trip up and down the four main streets. The stately town clock chimed the hour as I walked through a busy retail corridor. It was refreshing to see stores that locals actually use. Department stores and furniture stores occupied square footage that similar towns have turned over to T-shirt shops. There were no "big boxes." One of the interesting new businesses was Purr & Pour, a cat café. I peeked in the window and said hello to a feline "Walmart greeter" sitting at the doorway. The local theater was busy getting ready for the opening night performance of Nana Does Vegas which looked like a fun show. With more walking up and down streets, lined with historic buildings and interesting landscaping. Colorful annuals planted amongst fronds of a palm was an interesting concept. 

Several houses had roses in full bloom. They are always more stunning against a white picket fence. Unexpectedly, I came across a South Carolina Champion Oak. The 600 year old tree with a 23-foot circumference was a bit hard to see behind the house. Also surprising was seeing a "roomba" mower. It did a fine job on the small, flat yard. Multiple houses of worship representing all the major denominations lined Highmarket Street. The lighting was only good on one side so there are pictures of St. Mary Our Lady of Ransom Catholic Church (1899) and the stained glass restoration taking place at Prince George Winyah Church (1721). 

Eventually I made my way back to the waterfront boardwalk and returned to Crossroads. Interesting decorations on the bow pulpit of a docked sailboat brought speculation as to its relationship to Purr & Pour. Large turtles sunned on a log. After a quick change of clothes we met up with Deltaville friends Sam and Cathy for dinner. We ended the day with a sunset walk along the boardwalk which included a visit to a large fountain and the obligatory selfie. Tomorrow we will continue on our journey home and enter North Carolina.