A Good Run On Our First Day

Deltaville to Great Bridge  |  9.3 Hours  |  61 Miles  

As we prepared to turn off the lights last night and get some sleep, neither Barry nor I could think of anything else that we needed to do. We were more than prepared for our morning departure. We awoke to the sound of rain on the cabin top, but the shower had moved through by the time Barry went out to disconnect the power cord at dawn's first light. I brought the docklines onboard and we were out of our slip right at 7:00. We left the festively decorated sailboat, symbolic of winter, in our wake and enjoyed one final look at the Stingray Point Lighthouse as we exited the marina. The temperature was pleasant with no need for multiple layers. The wind was calm and so was the water. These conditions were perfect for one thing ...

Fog! Pea soup fog had settled over the area. Channel markers remained hidden until we were nearly upon them. A barely-visible fishing boat followed us out of Broad Creek and into the Rappahannock River. A short time later, we made the turn south into the Chesapeake Bay. Again, the water was disturbed by nary a ripple. All things being equal, I'd choose warm and calm over visibility. 

On a few occasions the sun teased us with its veiled appearance before ultimately fading back into the haze. The neutral gray combination of sea and sky provided a perfect background for photos. The bright colors of my sweatshirt and flag really popped. The first four hours of our trip were comparable to a run on a treadmill. I knew we were making miles, but the scenery never changed. Shortly after crossing the Hampton Roads Tunnel, we were contacted over the radio by the cargo ship Seaspan Loncomilla which had left port and was headed to sea. We watched on our chart plotter as we passed each other on the beam.

Only a couple hundred yards away, all we saw was gray fog. What we should have seen was a bit more impressive. As we continued south on the Elizabeth River, the fog finally began to lift. (The water in the river was warmer than that in the Bay making for less favorable fog conditions.) Boats and cranes began to emerge from their gray cloak. 

As we approached Norfolk, the familiar sight of Navy ships returned. The Portsmouth Christmas tree stood over by the waterfront. The vibrant colors of the Welcome to Norfolk mural glowed at Waterside. We made quick passage through the commercial district and bridges. As we neared the Great Bridge Lock, a small, dreamy patch of fog hovered just above the water.

We timed the lock perfectly and pulled directly into the chamber for the 3:30 passage. The eight inch drop was drama-free and we exited with only a short wait for the 4:00 bridge opening. A newly-erected sign welcomed us to Chesapeake. We pulled into Atlantic Yacht Basin and filled Crossroads with diesel. At $3.65 a gallon, their price is the best in the area. (I'll let you do the math.) Interesting how the pump does not show your running dollar total. What you don't see doesn't hurt as much? Even with their high-speed pump, it took half an hour to fill our two tanks. Across the way, the still water displayed a perfect reflection of the Battlefield & Waterways History Foundation building where we elected to tie up at their free dock for the night. There is no electrical service, but it is warm enough that we'll be comfortable onboard while saving a few dollars.

A heavy rain began to fall as I prepared a comforting dinner of chili and cornbread to celebrate both the end of a good first day and New Year's Eve. I doubt we make it to midnight for the official celebration. Our plan is to get underway tomorrow at first light and knock out another big chunk of miles. Mother Nature will cast the deciding vote in the morning. We're hoping for no more fog. 

In response to my Mom's request, below are a few interior pictures of Crossroads while clean and ready to go. She is a very comfortable home away from home for the two of us.  

Time To Head South

Deltaville    

It seems like summer and fall were gone in a flash. The arrival of winter's chill, however, has reminded us that it is indeed time to head south in search of warmer temperatures and the natural beauty of The Bahamas. A few highlights of our time on land follow to catch you up from where I left off.

My much-needed haircut was Priority #1. After that, I spent the next week working in my yard. I missed the azalea and rhododendron blooms, but enjoyed the full flowering cascade of the rose bushes. Soon thereafter, I headed to Winston-Salem for a visit that included a family outing to Greensboro's Lake Brandt for some kayaking and paddle boarding. Rebekah returned to Virginia with me and stayed for a week. A highlight during that time was hiking to the top of Humpback Rock along the Blue Ridge Parkway ... 

... followed by a visit to Crabtree Falls. Deidre, Aunt B, and Uncle Bennett came up for a day cruise aboard Crossroads before taking Rebekah home. We had perfect weather and partook of a couple imported Bahamian refreshments along the way. My stargazer crop produced a very nice harvest by the end of June.

Barry and I traveled to New Jersey to celebrate a special birthday with Chris and Gina. A FUNN night was had by all when we met Michelle and Tom (and Nutzy) for a Flying Squirrels game. In between outside activities I painted Barry's office and the kitchen, giving our house a fresh and updated look. 

Barry continued with his marine electronics business, but made time to get his '65 Corvette on the road. He took it around the block a couple of times and I joined him for one lap. It is not to the point of being a daily driver just yet ... maybe next summer. Crossroads received an upgrade of two new chartplotters. Barry spent much time under the helm and in the engine room rewiring our freezer (to run off the inverter) and installing a charge controller for our new solar panels. We discovered we had a leaky muffler (its always something) and had to get that repaired. Crossroads was relegated to a dock queen and could not be moved for two months. I dropped the paddle board in the water and explored the creek at a slower pace. 

My two favorite canines made several visits to Camp Newland and we had tons of fun together. Many evenings were spent just watching the sun set from the flybridge. The Humpback Rock hike had made my bothersome knee even more painful. I did my research and visited Dr. Michael Wind on September 1. With no other option left, a total knee replacement was scheduled for October 7. I had one month to get my affairs in order. The biggest task was giving Crossroads a bath and a fresh waxing. Her mirror-like reflection was evidence of a job well done.

I also hit the gym trying to strengthen my legs before October 7. Barry and Glenda joined me on surgery day. I reported at 6:45 am and walked out of the outpatient facility by 1:00, already feeling better than when I hobbled into the building six hours earlier. Once home, I had the best rehab team I could dream of. Cooper cheered me on while I did leg extensions and Glenda made sure I did all of my exercises three times a day. I had goals and was determined to put in the work required to reach them. Barry departed on what turned into a  24-day delivery (thanks to Hurricane Nicole) of a trawler from Bradenton, FL, to Deltaville. I was cleared for normal activity less than two weeks post-surgery. In my absence from Crossroads, Sharon at Salt Canvas was busy recovering the cushions for the bench on the Portuguese bridge. It looks so good. My first solo outing was to UVA to watch a women's basketball game and get a current photo with CavMan.

I was fortunate to attend Seussical the Musical and see Elinor command the stage with an amazing singing and acting performance. I crushed my rehab goal and was stronger than ever to help Glenda load provisions onto Paradigm Shift. She, Greg, Jaxon and Cooper departed on Thanksgiving Day and we hope to meet up with them soon in The Bahamas. Barry finally returned home the day after Thanksgiving. Crossroads visited Zimmerman's Spa for a quick haul, power-washing, zinc replacement, and stabilizer adjustment. Back in the water, she was deemed ready to head south.

I returned to Winston-Salem for my family's traditional Christmas kick-off weekend. We all attended Candle Tea in Old Salem and were thankful that Aunt Wrenn was able to join us this year. It was all smiles at my final PT session with Caroline and Sarah. I am so grateful for their guidance and efforts in getting me back better than ever. Since late October, I had been purchasing canned goods and other nonperishable items for our trip south. Twenty-eight race bags later, I had everything moved onboard and out of our basement. Stowing everything took a few days, but I was pleased at how much I packed away out of sight. A little planning and investment upfront makes for a much more enjoyable and cost efficient trip.  

It was a privilege to photograph two of Tessa's ball games and capture some "real" basketball photos. She played tenacious defense in both games, but its her coast-to-coast driving layup that I'll remember most. After the games, Ian gave me a private trumpet performance. He's been playing for less than a year, but loves it and has already claimed first-chair. December was passing quickly and my To-Do list was still long. Several rounds of leaf gathering sandwiched my day of pruning the crape myrtles. Two pans of lasagna were prepared and frozen for quick ready-to-eat meals on our trip south. The commissary is full, but organized and inventoried. 

A fitting bookend to our land time was a final haircut with Anh Dai. She has taken care of me for 30 years and I'll try not to make too big a mess of things with my onboard trims. The weekend before Christmas was extra special as I got to meet up with Matt and Kirstin at Oscar's high school all star football game. Lunch with Rich was such a treat. I will always consider him my mentor and so much of my success has been built upon principles I learned while working with him for five years. Everything was coming together nicely and then Mother Nature decided to throw us a curveball. I made a quick run to Crossroads to adjust docklines, move fenders, and secure any loose items. The Bomb Cyclone roared through Deltaville with 100mph gusts and the temperature plummeted to single digits. We found ice on our heat pump exhaust and neighbor's docklines on our Christmas Eve return trip, but Crossroads was in good shape. We returned home to await Santa's arrival. On Christmas morning, we managed to finally take our holiday photo before heading to Mom's for Christmas #1.

During the change to frigid weather, Barry had come down with a nasty cough. He masked at mom's house, but opted to not travel to Winston-Salem that evening for Christmas #2. I spent three days with the family, and we all gathered and visited on multiple occasions. Two days ago I drove home and immediately took down all our Christmas decorations. Yesterday, we packed up the last round of necessities then visited with my mom for the final time to drop off my cacti at her house for safe keeping. From there we headed to The Rivah and met Fernando and Judy for dinner on the way to Crossroads. They will be departing in a couple of weeks and following in our wake to The Bahamas. This morning, I transferred all of my frozen food from storage in Glenda's freezer to our onboard freezer then made a run to Food Lion for final fruits, veggies, and deli meat. It was a beautiful day with weather defying the calendar. By noon the temperature soared to 63 -- 55 degrees warmer than my previous trip -- and I changed into summer attire. I reset our docklines to easy-exit travel position before enjoying some time on Fiberglass Beach with one of my new books. By 3:00 my car was parked and covered for winter storage. On our walk back to our slip, we shook our heads as we observed the buds in the Bradford pears that line the marina driveway. Today's weather may be wonderful and have all God's creatures thinking spring, but I know that harsh bite of winter will soon return. Barry and I are fortunate to have the opportunity to escape the "90 Days of February." I fear the Bradford pears will soon have their growth nipped in the bud.

So that's a not-so-brief update on the past seven months. We plan to castoff tomorrow morning at first light (6:30-ish) and start making our way south. My intent is to continue with this blog (which dates back to May 2018) on a daily basis, sharing the photos I take along the way with a few words to connect them all together. Please feel free to contact us with any comments or suggestions. Thanks for following along. 

Beyond The Fog Lies Clarity

Hampton to Deltaville  |  5.8 Hours  |  41 Miles  

We anticipated some early morning fog for our trip to Deltaville and Mother Nature did not disappoint. Warm, humid air settling over the cool water gave us thick advection fog. It was difficult to determine where I was this morning as all of my reference points were veiled. Paradigm Shift was barely visible even though they were only 200-feet or so away. We delayed our departure time, hoping for it to lift. Even the gulls were grounded. Two found a comfortable resting place upon our secondary anchor. By 8:30, we could finally see beyond our bow and decided to raise anchor. Glenda shared this thought of the day: "If you want to see what the fog hides in itself, don't wait for the fog to disperse! Instead of waiting for something to happen in this short life, do something immediately! Enter the fog!" We followed Paradigm Shift and entered the fog together. 

Our radar was on and I was standing on the side deck keeping a look out for anything that could ruin our day -- crab pots, channel markers, other boats. The fog actually thickened and we struggled to maintain sight of Paradigm Shift. The pelicans, however, were active. Along the way, a small bird hitched a ride for a while on our bow rail. It was a pretty rotten morning. Contributing to the staying power of the fog was the fact that there was nary a breeze to move it along.

Slowly the sky began to clear. The sun burned off the fog from high to low. Suddenly, it all became clear. By 12:30, we were enjoying a beautiful day on the Chesapeake Bay. We were also reminded of every Bay boater's nemesis, the biting flies. Both Barry and I grabbed a swatter and attempted to squash the flying vampires before they could take a bite out of our legs. I spent some time on Fiberglass Beach (swatter in hand) to freshen up my tan which was starting to fade after a week of rain and clouds. I knew we were getting close to the Rappahannock River when I saw the green marker for the Piankatank River and a few sailboats crossing west to east across our path. 

Paradigm Shift had pulled away from us and made the turn into the Rappahannock. As we made the turn, I began stringing up all the lines required for docking in our home slip. With the Norris Bridge on the horizon we turned off at Broad Creek channel. Paradigm Shift had another hour and a half to get to their home slip in Urbanna. 

We turned into the Stingray Point channel and passed a long line of familiar boats. A blue heron was checking out the seafood selection on the lunch menu. Our fenders were in position and we eased onto the pumpout dock. It has been far too many days since our last pumpout in Southport. Our red light has been flashing, warning us that it was time to take care of business. While I filled up our water tanks, Barry took off for the parking lot to check on his Escape. We knew the battery would be dead and wanted to get a charger on it as soon as possible. While the charging was occurring, he came back and we completed our pumpout then eased back into our summer home -- Slip 58. We had planned a welcome home dinner at the local Mexican restaurant with Paradigm Shift. Turns out, it is closed on Sunday. We agreed on a raincheck for our Mexican celebration. Barry and I headed to Gloucester for the best Thai food around. Tomorrow we will head home for a few days and see what's going on there. We have a busy week of hair cuts (YAY!), doctors' appointments, Zoom meetings, and the many additional things we have not yet anticipated. Crossroads, of course, needs a good cleaning and waxing. One thing for sure is that our To-Do list is lengthy and everything will become clear with time. We'll hit the ground running, check off the boxes, and prepare to do this all again next January.

So after 136 days we are back where we started. Thanks to all who followed along on our journey. I have attempted to capture each day -- the good and not so good -- in pictures and then write a little bit to connect the images. Until next time ...

-30-

A Little Bit Of Everything

Camden Point to Hampton  |  10.7 Hours  |  66 Miles  

The sun was nowhere to be seen as I went out to raise the anchor. Rain had fallen throughout the wee hours of the morning and there was still a heavy mist/light rain requiring me to put on the full compliment of foul weather gear. We moved out of the Broad Creek anchorage and back into the Intracoastal Waterway. Our destination by the end of the day was a return to Virginia. The muted light made for great swamp photography conditions. The first miles clicked on by and soon we were passing through Coinjock. Tied up to the dock was American Star. We surmised that they had stopped here waiting for water levels to return to normal in Currituck Sound.

We saw a few lower than expected readings, but had no unplanned contact with terra firma. Blue sky teased us, but only served to make the scenery at bit more eerie. Fog settled over us. The bright channel markers were a welcome splash of color for our eyes. A cormorant dried its wings atop a red, while a pair of osprey tended a small nest on a green. As we moved further up the ICW, the osprey houses were much grander in scale. 

We timed our arrival at the North Landing Bridge pretty well and passed through with minimal delay. A bald eagle watched our little parade of boats move along. Paradigm Shift was behind us. The challenge then became to get through the next bridge to set us up for an on-the-hour opening of our final bridge in Great Bridge. A series of factors conspired against us, including numerous no-wake zones, a group of paddle boarders, and a large barge moving scrap iron that delayed us at the Centerville Bridge.

Realizing we couldn't make the upcoming Great Bridge opening in 30 minutes, we slowed our speed to a crawl and tried to occupy the next hour and a half by looking at scenery. Sunning turtles and wading blue herons were willing, if unknowing, subjects. We arrived at Great Bridge 20 minutes early and were prepared to hold station and wait for the next opening. Then over the radio came the big announcement: Railroad Bridge #7 was stuck in the down position for the foreseeable future. We made the quick decision to claim a spot on the free dock and wait out the delay. Of course I was not prepared to dock and all the lines were stowed away. I pulled out the minimum essential lines to produce a good-enough-for-now effort. We then went back and properly tied up for an extended stay. Just as we began to exhale and enjoy a completed day, the new announcement came that the bridge was once again open to through traffic. A new plan went into effect calling for us to depart at the 3:00 bridge opening. With 40 minutes to wait, I gladly took the opportunity to go for a walk through the park. Paradigm Shift was more productive than us and used the delay to pick up fuel and water.  

Barry watched the boat traffic. Soon the wait was over and we all passed through the Great Bridge Bridge and into the lock chamber. We were on our way and the sun was out both literally and figuratively. No more bridges between here and home.

The Elizabeth River was scenic as always. Work continues on the USS Dwight D. Eisenhower. The orange Welcome to Norfolk mural shone brightly at Waterside. Nauticus and Town Point park couldn't look much better from the water.

The USS Wisconsin commanded respect even though she hasn't moved in years. As we neared the carrier piers of Norfolk NOB, dark clouds had moved in to the east of the USS Gerald R. Ford. To the west, a large storm cell was approaching. We added a little extra throttle and headed toward The Chamberlin in Hampton. We would try our hardest to reach our destination, the Old Point Comfort anchorage, before the storm arrived. Mission accomplished. We dropped anchor and stayed dry as the storm passed to our south. 

It was a long day that had a little bit of everything sprinkled with several unplanned delays. We had a quick dinner and then watched the latest edition of Mother Nature's Light Show. A rainbow once again formed as the sun was setting. Greg took and shared the first photo of us from across the anchorage. An orange sky finished the evening. The boat pictured could be us, but is actually sister ship Duet. Twilight faded away with soft reflections of the Hampton Roads Bridge Tunnel across the anchorage. 

Mother Nature Steals The Show

Belhaven to Camden Point  |  9.3 Hours  |  67 Miles  

Restless sleep preceded our 6:00 am alarm. We were anxious to get underway and a little concerned about the water conditions we would face on the next leg of our trip north. Once more, the color of the morning was gray. Belhaven's multi-colored waterfront building provided the only color in another dreary morning. The positive points could not be seen: light winds and warmer temperatures. As expected the anchor came up with an abundance of mud caked on the chain. By the time I had everything on Crossroads washed off, Paradigm Shift had emerged from their anchorage and settled in behind us. It was sure nice to see them again. Soon, many more boats had joined our little parade. 

The first hour was a bit nerve-wracking as boats jockeyed for position. There seemed to be a constant chatter on the radio of folks either requesting a slow pass or fussing about getting waked. No matter how big and fast you think you are, there is always someone bigger or faster. -- or in the case of the large sport fisher passing Paradigm Shift, bigger and faster. Once everyone found their spot in line, the miles clicked off quickly. We went through heavy rain and had some thunder and lightning along the way. By the time we reached the Alligator River Swing Bridge, the sky had cleared and the sun was shining. The bridge tender kindly kept the span open for us, allowing for passage without slowing down.

No matter how many times we make this trip, much time is devoted to predicting the condition of Albemarle Sound. Today, there was no issue whatsoever. We all had a picture-perfect crossing of the Sound and lined up to enter the North River. The crab pots kept us alert as their dark half-floats were often difficult to see until we were upon them. We turned off into the Broad Creek anchorage for the evening. Glenda got the shot of us underway. The sun was casting long shadows as I set the anchor. A quick change of clothes followed and I relocated to the flybridge to read and enjoy the warmth of th e sun.

After dinner, the light show began. Greg sent the photo of us and the rainbow as I was watching a full arc (with a hint of a second) develop in front of us. The colors stayed bright for a long while, even as the sun was setting behind us. 

Moving to the stern, we watched as the golden hour hues built to a crescendo. After a week-long delay waiting on the Nor'Easter to pass, I guess its only fitting that Mother Nature was also the star of today's show. Not pictured is the evening's encore. A nearly full moon has risen brightly in the dark, cloud-free sky.

A Final Lap Around Town

Belhaven  

A few boats exited this morning out of Belhaven's safe harbor. We were not one of them, wary of reported low water north of us. Yampa, who left yesterday, reported back that there was indeed low water in Alligator River and they had to hold up short of their destination. Hearing their report made us feel a little better about spending day six in this comfortable anchorage. The morning was like most others -- breakfast, chores, stretch, shower. A few rain showers rolled through the area, dumping heavily for a brief period then stopping as quickly as it started. After lunch we donned our foul weather gear and headed to shore for one last trash drop and walk around town. The good news is that it was warmer today. Maybe tomorrow we can trade our jeans for shorts. High tide approached the top of the docks as we walked down Water Street. At River Forest Manor a large tent was being set up for a weekend wedding. We made the turn back to town via Main Street. By now this is a familiar route, but we noticed a few new pieces of eye candy. A large grouping of bright red amaryllises were in full bloom by the front stoop. 

A bright red crab hung from a tree. The most pleasant surprise was seeing the red and yellow marbled rose buds. Soon we were back to the town dock. The street and low waterfront areas were still flooded. Barry walked the docks and chatted with the menfolk while I sat at the picnic shelter and observed the developing show. Dockhands were out moving boats (including our dinghy) to squeeze out more room. They then made multiple trips up and down the dock, walking off the distance. With little scientific accuracy, they radioed that there was 48 feet available between a power cat and the bulkhead. In came a sport fisher and a few tense moments ensued as they worked their way into the opening with inches to spare. True, their waterline fit in the spot, but their length overall was much longer because of their large protruding bowsprit. After the show was over, we headed back to Crossroads as showers again rolled through the area. Before dinner we put the dinghy back on the upper deck. We are ready to depart in the morning and make the final dash home. In this case, we hope that the creek does rise ... just a bit. 

Surveying The Scene Up North

Belhaven  

Just like a scene from Groundhog Day, we awoke to face a string of familiar scenarios. The overcast sky muted any color cast by the rising sun. The wind had calmed a bit, but was still strong enough to amplify the unseasonable chill in the air. Following the normal routine, I checked off breakfast and stretching. Faced with more hours to occupy, I tackled the cleaning and dusting of more louvered doors. It is important work, but definitely falls in at about 436 on my list of favorite things to do while onboard. We didn't even leave the boat, preferring to stay in our warm little house on the water. Weather conditions are improving, however, another issue has now developed further up the Intracoastal Waterway. The persistent northeast winds have blown the water out of Currituck Sound and the North Landing River. Our normally narrow passage with just enough water to float us has turned into an impassable puddle. In Great Bridge, higher than normal water level is preventing the lock from opening at high tide. The whole world has gone haywire. The word on the internet is that Friday will see conditions start to turn toward normal. So we'll hang out one more day in Belhaven, dinghy to shore, and take another walk through town to enjoy the flowers and landscaping. Meanwhile, back at home, my crepe myrtles, ferns, and lilies have all leafed out. The azaleas and my pride and joy rhododendrons have finished blooming and the roses are just now starting to show pink. My haircut is scheduled for Monday at 2:00. We need to get moving.  

Binging On Eye Candy

Belhaven  

For the first time since we departed Deltaville in January we went out for breakfast. We took the dinghy in, met the crew of Yampa, and headed back to Gingerbread. We had seen their menu yesterday and were eager to order items we just don't get onboard (which at this point is anything other than oatmeal and protein pancakes). Country ham was calling my name. Barry ordered a western omelette. Great conversation flowed as we discovered how small the world is becoming. Turns out Scott (who we found out yesterday lives five miles from our house) and Barry worked on the same Top-Secret project at Texas Instruments in Dallas back in the late 1980s. After breakfast Barry went back to Yampa to work on an electronics issue. I set out on a walk down Main Street to explore more of the charming town of Belhaven. The town seal is mounted on the Municipal Building. It is divided into sections by a ship's wheel, with each part representing an important element in Belhaven's history. Colorful blooms lined the streets. Beside the library, I found another 6x6-foot fiberglass entry in the Crabs on the Move community art project. Truth is, most homeowners seem to participate in a broader art project. Every building features a different flavor of eye candy.      

Images of crabs were stenciled in blue along the sidewalks. Stately houses lined both sides of the street. Gardens often featured flowering plants along with whimsical sculptures. A well-worn handle on the front door caught my eye at Trinity United Methodist Church. Purple irises and bright yellow day lilies surrounded Saint James Episcopal Church. 

Covered wrap-around porches with large swings and a nice basketball goal on a flat cement pad are favorite features on my list. Turning on Latham Street, a decorative quilt square adorned the side of one house. A bright red birdhouse was the feature item of the colorful roadside flower bed. The high winds we've been experiencing could have explained the presence of a pastel blue bird's egg in the middle of the road. A large garden was planted with young beans, onions, peppers and tomatoes. 

The Mad Batter is located where Pungo Street intersects Pamlico Street. I arrived just before its 10:00 opening and waited along with a young woman and her four-year-old son for the doors to open. The young boy was so excited to go in and get a cupcake. Fresh cheesecakes and pies were being loaded into the display case as we entered. I picked up two cinnamon rolls to go and took them back to the dinghy. While there I also peeled off my foul weather jacket before setting off on another lap. Still with a fleece jacket on, I went out Water Street and soaked up a little sun that was trying to peak through the heavy cloud cover. My head was on a swivel, looking at both sides of the streets to pick out all the small architectural details that give a house character. Whether on shutters or on stair kicks, the little touches make a big statement.

Large statement pieces were also abundant, such as an anchor by the driveway, geraniums in an old cast iron pot, and a stately old tree with a bench beneath. I reached the end of the road by River Forest Manor then turned back on Main Street for the final leg, taking closer looks at a boat planter full of pansies, a hedge of fragrant honeysuckle, and the vivid berries of a holly.

Clever window displays and good music led me to stop in and browse at a small locally-owned gift shop. The old City Hall built in 1910, now houses the Belhaven Memorial Museum. It was closed for renovation so I didn't get an opportunity to learn about this town being the birthplace of the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway or to see the collection of over 30,000 buttons of long-time resident Mrs. Mary Eva Blount Way. Maybe next year. Flooding is an issue for this waterfront town. The Nor'easter blowing off the coast is creating higher than normal tides, sending the Pantego River over its banks and into the street. I returned to the dinghy dock just as Barry was finishing up his project and as the wind was picking up. We returned to Crossroads and listened as the wind howled all afternoon. I pulled all of our remaining food stores out of the commissary and repacked the storage areas in the galley and salon. Overall, most everything I stashed onboard back in December has been on point. We have a few extra of some things (cans of green beans) and have run out of several things that we've since replaced at State-side grocery stores. Supposedly today, our third day waiting on weather, was to have the worst conditions. I hope so because I'm running out of new areas to explore and boat projects to complete. 

Pleasant Surprises

Belhaven  

The morning's first look out the master port verified that today was going to be a much better day. The rain and fog were gone and the sun was shining. Pinchy, the Jeanneau 379 anchored in front of us, was clearly visible. It was, however, still quite chilly. We started the generator and turned on the heat. I pulled more cold weather clothes out of storage. Breakfast, stretching, and showers occupied the morning. At noon, we layered up and took the dinghy to shore. A gusty wind was still working over the dockside flag, which was already showing signs of tatter. Belhaven's downtown was welcoming, with several retail outlets and restaurants. We stopped at Gingerbread Bakery and Snack Shop for lunch. The place was full of locals so we had a pretty good idea that we were in a good spot.   

I got the grilled cheese and vegetable beef soup combo special. It was perfect for the cold afternoon. The staff was very friendly, the food was great, and we found out they also serve breakfast. We will visit this pleasant surprise again in the morning. After lunch we continued on our walk through town and came upon a couple selling strawberries. With one look at and smell of the large red gems, I knew they were no store-grade berries. Another pleasant surprise. We picked up an overflowing quart container and brought it back to the dinghy for safe storage.

We then continued our walk through the neighborhood streets. Colorful flowers bloomed in wild spaces and manicured gardens. Huge pine trees and River Forest Manor stand as monuments of resilience in this hurricane zone. Hurricane Florence left the city under water in 2018. 

Private residences were mixed on the same street with Bed and Breakfast inns. Every house had a focal point, whether it be a pastel tree swing or an old-fashioned hitchin' post. Now that I'm back in North Carolina, even last names deemed odd in most areas are more common. We stopped for a quick photo with Mr. Crab. This is as crabby as we got on this day. 

It was warm in the sun and cold in the shade. I put on and pulled off layers all afternoon. By the time we made it to the Belhaven welcome sign, I was down to short sleeves. Barry went into the Chamber of Commerce and came back with a nice welcome pack full of information. He also came back with the news that the couple who certified him as a sailing instructor was on a sailboat at the town dock. Smaller world still was that the boat is owned by a gentleman who lives five miles from us at home. We went over and chatted with all three for a good while. Yes, another pleasant surprise. 

The wind was picking up and the wind chill was again becoming a factor. I layered back up and we headed back to Crossroads doing our best "George Washington Crossing the Delaware" imitation. Following dinner, we watched as the final pleasant surprise developed to the west. The sun and clouds combined to give us a beautiful close to the day.