Leaving 2024 In Our Wake

Hampton to Great Bridge  |  4.2 Hours  |  22.3 Miles   

We were again blessed with unseasonably warm and calm weather on this last day of 2024. Sunset Creek offered up a perfect reflection of the waterside homes. We knocked out our departure chores and were underway right at 8:00. Top of the hour chimes from Hampton University's Memorial Church Bell Tower serenaded us as we passed.  

Several large pods of dolphin escorted us across Hampton Roads. It never gets old to stand on the bow and watch these graceful creatures bob, weave, jump, and spin. A Notice To Mariners broadcast on the VHF radio informed us of channel restrictions as MV Orion was departing Portsmouth Marine Terminal. All the excitement had passed by the time we reached the area and we experienced no delays. The Navy piers always provide plenty of visual interest.     

As we made our way south on the Elizabeth River we came to Portsmouth Marine Terminal. It is currently the staging area for the Coastal Virginia Offshore Wind project, the largest offshore wind project in the United States. The large yellow transition pieces connect the orange monopiles to the turbine generators. Offshore assembly has begun with MV Orion transporting turbine components 27 miles off the coast of Virginia Beach. The project will install 176 of the 14.7-megawatt turbines upon its completion in 2026. It was sunny, we were warm, and were making great time. We had even begun talking of the possibility of making more miles than planned. Then we heard the radio notice that the Belt Line Railroad Bridge would be closing. Ugghh. We slowed to idle and waited for 45 minutes for the bridge to rise and allow vessel passage. The large crane off our starboard loomed over us as we waited. 

Once the Belt Line Railroad Bridge was in our wake, we had a clear path to the Great Bridge Lock. Barry's time and distance calculations enabled us to pull right into the lock chamber for the short drop of about a foot. A half hour later the Great Bridge Bascule Bridge opened. We passed through, made a quick U-turn, and tied up at the free dock for the night. Our final afternoon of 2024 was spent walking through the pine forest of the Waterway Trail. As I sit writing this and watching the Penn State game, fireworks are sounding outside. 2024 was a challenging year in many ways, but it is going out with a bang. Change your calendar to 2025 and have a wonderful year! 

We

A Great First Day

Deltaville to Hampton  |  6.2 Hours  |  42 Miles   

We went to sleep knowing everything about our Day 1 Departure would be familiar. We were ready to get moving soon after the wake-up alarm sounded. Our tasks and the order in which they needed to be performed were not new. The route and the scenery we'd pass along the way have been the same for years. Today's success would come down to execution of that knowledge. One final check ensured that the through-hulls had been opened and all docklines and fenders had been brought onboard. Crossroads slowly exited her slip at 7:30 and we eased through Stingray Point Marina. Whenever we pass our former sailboat, Laughing Place, we think back on the seven great years we had with her while also knowing that cruising with Crossroads is so much more comfortable. Three little buffleheads led us out Stingray Channel as the rising sun cast a warm glow on the waterfront homes.

Our turn into the Rappahannock River occurred as the sun climbed above the treetops. Upriver, the Norris Bridge shone brightly in the morning light.

A small group of watermen were positioned at the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay. We watched as the crews brought in the day's oyster harvest.

It was a beautiful morning: no wind, no waves, no crab pots, no traffic, and no heavy jacket required. I went outside and cleaned up the docklines as we passed Wolf Trap Light. The bright sun warmed up the pilothouse to where we actually had to open the doors to cool down. We exited the Chesapeake Bay at Thimble Shoals Channel and were greeted by a group of cormorants on a day marker. A family enjoyed a day at the beach. The kids were in bathing suits. It was warm for December ... but far from being THAT warm.

We continued to check off the landmarks: the Old Point Comfort Lighthouse, The Chamberlin, and construction at the Hampton Roads Tunnel. The day passed quickly and we experienced no issues on this warm-up leg. We pulled into Bluewater Marina and tied ourselves up at the fuel dock as the office was closed for the holiday. Day 1 turned out to be a great day. We took a late afternoon walk through the neighborhood that stretched into an early evening walk. The many Christmas decorations continue celebrate the season that, for me, feels so long ago. How quickly we have transitioned from Christmas to cruising.  

Deja Vu All Over Again

Deltaville  

Tonight we find ourselves in the exact same position we were 365 days ago. In the morning, we will disconnect the shore power, bring our docklines onboard, and depart on our quest for warmer temperatures and bluer waters. There have been (and still are) challenges and concerns, but we look forward to seeing where this winter cruise takes us. More of that stuff later. We have plans to catch up with friends and family along our way to favorite destinations. Thank you for coming along with us! As always, we welcome your comments and suggestions.

This morning we loaded the last of our clothing and provisions into my car, closed up the house, and headed to Crossroads. How odd it felt to have done this in short sleeves. By the time we reached Deltaville, the temperature was in the upper 60s. We know well that these mild days are just a tease and the "90 Days of February" are to be avoided. To that end, we got busy putting everything in proper places. The first task was to load three large cooler bags into our two small freezers. Miraculously, I managed to get everything to fit! We celebrated by taking my car to long-term parking and putting it under cover. The replica Stingray Point Lighthouse was looking good under a blue sky. A few more tasks were completed before darkness set in and the rain began. Tomorrow looks like a good travel day. Crossroads is ready. We are too. 

  

Epilogue

Glen Allen  

 I felt the need for one last post to complete the story of our 2024 Winter Cruise. Our first day back in Deltaville was warm and beautiful. We walked down the Bradford tree-line driveway to get my car out of storage. I happily took my chair to Fiberglass Beach and read for several hours in the afternoon. Besides being disappointed about cutting our trip short, I also missed the time sitting in the sun with a good book. I did not finish a single one and will make catching up a summer priority. At 4:00 we packed a few things in the car and headed home. We did not do much at the house other than turn on the water and get some sleep. I did, however, spot the blooms beginning to show in my azalea beside the garage door.

First thing Friday, we hit the road again for Beaufort to pick up Barry's Escape. We've made the trip several times, but it seems Google has routed us differently on each. A quick detour was made in New Bern to get lunch and stretch our legs. We made up for the fact that we failed to get a selfie with one of the New Bern Bears. A new feature since our last visit was the thick layer of pine pollen atop EVERYTHING. We still had plenty of afternoon ahead of us when we reached Morehead City so we stopped at Atlantic Beach. Hello, Wind. This area would not be the same without you. It was warm (Yay!) and we were thankful to finally walk this stretch without coats. One thing for sure, Chicago has nothing on this area of North Carolina.   

It was excellent closure to take another stroll toward the pier. It was a nice touch to see real footprints in the sand. The sea foam had a mysterious iridescence. The shorebirds walked along with us.

We walked from the public access beach well past the pier before retracing our steps. And we got a photo on a real beach day. 

One more stop was downtown Beaufort. To bookend our stay, we visited the sign just as we did on our first day in town back on January 8. In the few weeks since we last strolled the streets of the historic district, the Beaufort Inn has been torn down. While we were still at Town Creek Marina, the fire department was using the structure for training purposes. The pine trees were loaded with pollen just waiting to coat all items, whether moving or still. We had a quiet night at the hotel, watching the ACC Tournament until I fell asleep (thankfully missing UVA's epic meltdown). 

Saturday morning we finally bid farewell to the area. Barry left and visited West Marine, because he could. I needed one last beach walk and drove back over the ICW to Atlantic Beach. The wind had the ocean whipped up, and the temperature required jeans and a sweatshirt, but the beach is still the beach. The gulls were searching the surf for breakfast. A half dozen surfers took advantage of the conditions. I took a few moments to watch. I will miss these walks along the lapping waves.

Every walk yielded something new and my final one featured a half dozen large jellyfish washed up in the sand. I found one intact shell and carried it back to my car where I placed it on the dash for the ride home. One last pass alongside the "Visit Us Again Soon" sign and I was on my way. By the time I reached Rocky Mount and Interstate 95, the day's weather had drastically improved. It was clear sailing to Richmond without delay. Before reaching the house, I stopped by the grocery store and picked up a few things to hold us over until I can unload all the food from Crossroads. With this final photo, the Chicken Salad and Lemonade Tour officially comes to an end.  

What Happened To The Wind?

Hampton to Deltaville  |  5.9 Hours  |  42.1 Miles   

We could not have asked for a prettier morning. We were on deck at 8:00 to unplug power and ready the lines for a quick and easy departure. I took one last long look at the houses across from the marina and their perfect reflection in the Hampton River. We eased off the dock, made a U-turn, and headed into the busy Hampton Roads basin. AIS targets and blue motion vectors lit up the chartplotter screen. Barges and heavy equipment were positioned around the corner as part of the new tunnel construction. We heard the cargo ship Marco Polo on the radio as it turned east into the Chesapeake. Approaching from starboard at 12 knots was the Colorado Express. We slowed and let it pass in front of us. All of this happened as multiple tugs were staging to escort the USS Wasp into the harbor. 

The Wasp is a multi-purpose amphibious assault ship, and the lead ship of her class. I found it interesting that she is the 10th Navy vessel to bear the name since 1775. She is designed to accommodate Landing Craft Air Cushion for fast troop movement over the beach, Harrier jets, and the tilt rotor Ospreys. The low and strong morning sun made it difficult to catch a good photo, but she made an impressive silhouette. That same sun nicely illuminated the Old Point Comfort Lighthouse on the banks of Fort Story. Once the Wasp passed I was able to get a better view of its 843-feet length and 104-feet beam. Not evident was its draft of 27 feet. Once clear of traffic, we turned north into the Chesapeake Bay. A couple dolphin came over to say hello and spent a few moments playing in our bow wave. 

The majority of our trip was surreal. The wind that has battered us for two months was absent. It was difficult to distinguish water from sky in the haze. The breeze was below five knots all day, and spent a great deal of time below one knot. We passed Wolf Trap Lighthouse around noon and noticed that it was getting a much-needed fresh coat of paint. The Coast Guard was conducting rescue exercises at the mouth of the Piankatank River. We rounded Stingray Point Light and headed up the Rappahannock River. The Norris Bridge was barely visible on the horizon through the haze.

A turn to port took us into Broad Creek channel and past the 1BC day marker. I went into deckhand mode and readied our dock lines for arrival. Looking back toward the Bay, the water was unbelievably flat. We were fortunate to arrive at high tide as there was not a lot of water in the Broad Creek channel. Shoaling continues to make the entrance challenging. No preferred blue and green depths were displayed on the tablet, and only a thin stripe of yellow remained among all the red. Our only excitement of the day occurred on the final turn into our marina when we came nose to nose with a work barge. We moved over and hugged the pilings at Regatta Point to allow the barge enough room to pass. Barry anticipated its wake and throttled up quickly so as not to get pushed into the pilings. 

We appreciated the low wind as we easily backed into our slip and reattached all of our dock lines. We were disappointed that we couldn't give Crossroads a bath because the water has not yet been turned on at the docks. It is still early in the season despite today's temperature in the 70s. I took my chair to Fiberglass Beach and enjoyed the warm afternoon and our usual peaceful view. After dinner we walked around the marina to see what was new. Dozens of Bradford pear trees line the marina's main drive. They were in full bloom (but did not smell) and formed an arching canopy leading to the lighthouse. Tomorrow morning we'll uncover my car, load a few essential things, and head home. Friday we'll head to Beaufort to pick up Barry's Escape. At that point we'll be back to life, back to reality. 

That brings us to the end of the 2024 Winter Cruise -- more appropriately branded as the Chicken Salad and Lemonade Tour. We thank you for following along, for your emails and texts, and your visits. This trip was definitely not what we anticipated, but I tried to capture an honest account of what was happening. Truthfully, writing this blog helped me process the unfortunate change of plans and put everything in perspective. We had an opportunity to explore a few new places and visit some old favorites. We will try again next year to reach the beautiful blues of The Bahamas, with a tentative departure date of Sunday, December 29. Take care and keep in touch. 

[Note: Turns out we end this voyage on my 750th post since starting this blog on January 8, 2018. That's over six years and more than 20,000 miles of memories ... with upward of 71,400 views. I find all of those numbers to be incredible.]

Saving The Best For Last?

Hampton  

Sunny? Check. Low Wind? Check. Warm? Check! By far, this was the nicest day we've enjoyed during this winter cruise. We opened the doors and welcomed some fresh air into Crossroads. We did some chores in the morning, and finished by adding 100 gallons of diesel to the tanks. With our travels only being to Beaufort and back, we did not burn much of our 950 capacity. After lunch we went out for a glorious walk around the neighborhood. Short sleeves and no jackets were the refreshing dress code. Facing only a light breeze, we walked along Chesapeake Avenue which runs along the waterfront. New blooms were spotted including the periwinkle/vinca and quince. One open lot among the long row of elegant houses gave us a view of the calm Hampton Roads waters. The discussion of our trek was the proper names of early spring's signature flowers. Tuns out all jonquils, daffodils, and paperwhites are members of the large genus Narcissus, which encompasses around 50 species. So a jonquil, which has slender, round-tipped leaves, is also both a daffodil and a narcissus. Papperwhites, on the other hand, are just narcissi.   

The best part of the day was to come. I finally got the opportunity to sit out in the sun on Fiberglass Beach in shorts and read a book. I'm a simple person and this is all it takes to make me a happy camper. Off of the starboard bow, I watched the flag fly in the increasing wind. Tug traffic moved up and down the Hampton River. As the sun set, the temperature dropped. Tomorrow will be a little cooler and a little cloudier, but should still be a nice travel day as we head back up the Chesapeake Bay to Deltaville. 

A Little Frost In The Morning

Hampton  

A snippet of Robert Frost's Two Tramps in Mud Time summarized our day: "The sun was warm but the wind was chill." The sky was clear and the sun was bright giving the illusion it might be a nice day. Well, it was a good view through the windows. The air was cold and the wind was strong. We went out to adjust our dock lines in response the wind's change of direction, and came back inside shivering. The wind chill was real and unpleasant. We made a quick trip through Crossroads, tidying up a bit before dusting and vacuuming. Our friend Pete drove across the Hampton Roads Bridge-Tunnel to visit with us a while. It was great to see him and chat about both old times and new plans. Once again, we are so very thankful for everyone who has shared their time with us during this trip. Our afternoon weather check revealed how the wind had stirred up the Chesapeake Bay. At the Stingray Point NOAA buoy, max waves were measured at nine feet earlier this morning. We'd definitely rather be here at the dock with the heat running than dealing with those conditions. Mother Nature granted us a little mercy as the wind, and especially the gusts, began to die down by the time the sun set up the Hampton River.  

The lights of the marina and the Hampton University campus across the water made for a nice dusk scene from our cockpit. We will stay here again tomorrow and let the Bay settle down before departing for Deltaville ahead of the next period of rain. 

Cruising Down Memory Lane

Great Bridge to Hampton  |  4.5 Hours  |  22.1 Miles  

The time change had us out of sorts, but we were up for the first daylight opening of the Great Bridge bridge. Barry called ahead to make sure the lock was operating on normal schedule. It had been closed yesterday because of high water. At 7:50 I began removing our dock lines and fenders and we pulled away from the free dock in front of the Great Bridge Battlefield & Waterways History Foundation museum which was still illuminated by night lights. Crossroads eased through the open bridge spans and moved forward into the lock. We had the chamber to ourselves for the one foot lift. 

We exited into the Elizabeth River and enjoyed a pleasant ride. This route is familiar, but always offeres something new. The marine radio was busy with Coast Guard securite announcements. Soon after our departure we heard that the Norfolk Southern Railroad Bridge #7 would be closing to allow for train passage. No worries, that train would be gone by the time we arrived. Not long thereafter, a notice came of the Great Bridge Lock being closed because of high water. We had escaped just in time. Veterans Bridge came into view around a bend and marked the entrance into industrial development. We rounded another bend and discovered the Old Number 7 was still down and closed to traffic. A call to the tender told us there would be a 15 minute wait. Thirty minutes later, we were still holding station. Then we saw that the earlier train was making its way back across the river, caboose first. It seemed to be the longest train ever.

Eventually the horn sounded and the span was raised to permit our passage. As we passed through, the significant damage to the fenders was apparent. The repairs for a boat running into it will have the bridge closed tomorrow. We breezed through Railroad Bridge #5 shortly before it was closed for a train. We were rolling and enjoying the views in favorable light. The towering Jordan Bridge was busy with pedestrians and vehicle traffic. 

As we passed through Portsmouth on the left, we spotted an old friend in the marina. SaltyMare, a Selene 53, was the pride and joy of Susie and Todd who we were fortunate enough to visit with twice during this trip. The beautiful boat now has another great family to carry on adventures. To the right, was Norfolk Waterside with their colorful welcome mural which brought back many memories. Cranes began sprouting up on the horizon as we neared the cargo terminals. Stacks and more stacks of trailers were ready to receive offloaded containers. The Zim Mount Kilimanjaro was docked along with two "smaller" ships. The ship was built in 2023 and sails under the flag of Hong Kong. You know it is BIG when the length is measured in miles. It was listed on AIS as being .2 nautical miles long which is roughly 1,200 feet, or 10 football fields including the end zones. 

The closer we got to the open exposure of Hampton Roads, the breezier it became and the choppier the water got. Crossroads took several good saltwater sprays and I chose to observed the aircraft carriers at the Navy base from the comfort of the pilothouse. The USS Bainbridge (DDG-96), a guided missile destroyer, was inbound to the base and its helper tug was waiting for its arrival. Smaller craft met us at the entrance to the Hampton River. Several sailing dinghies were out in the stiff breeze exhibiting more nerve than I would ever have. This one sailor spent more time bailing with his red bucket than he did piloting. We pulled up to the Bluewater Marina fuel dock just as we did way back on December 30. The marina was closed so we just tied up ourselves. I gave myself the customary dockhand tip. A mallard couple came by to welcome us. 

I watched two exciting conference finals before we went for a walk around the neighborhood. The houses we last saw when they were decorated for Christmas now featured the wonderful blooms of spring. It was a welcome sight. As much as I love spending time in The Bahamas, I've always missed springtime in Virginia. Now if we can just do something about the cold temperatures and this incessant wind. The gusts built all afternoon and dark clouds moved in behind the Hampton University bell tower. Tomorrow will be another blustery day so we'll hang out here and wait for the Chesapeake Bay conditions to improve before moving north. 

Crossing Back Into Virginia

Camden Point to Great Bridge  |  6 Hours  |  42.8 Miles  

We got an earlier start today, hoping to get the anchor up and be on our way before the heavy rain began. Tiny flies descended upon Crossroads overnight. I removed as many as I could while washing down the anchor and decks. A sign along the North River pointed out one of our bucket list destinations. Manteo is on the Albemarle Loop which is a route we hope to do one day. The weather was not cooperating for this trip. The wind was light and waterside homes cast a perfect reflection on the still intracoastal waterway. There were no other boats on the water and only one duck boat tied up alongside Coinjock Marina. The rain fell harder as we entered Currituck Sound. The lack of sunshine made for a chilly morning and we pulled out the heater for a more comfortable ride. 

What was a UPS truck doing wheel-deep in the shallows? Turns out it was a duck blind. I was pleased to spot my favorite stump in its spot. All along our path, osprey had begun collecting sticks and crafting their spring nests. Most day markers had a nest and we also saw nests lower to the water on top of bridge fenders. The rain continued as we calculated our time and distance equations for our 12:30 arrival at the North Landing Swing Bridge. I called my mom to wish her a happy birthday and was reviewing the day's ball game schedule with her as we crossed back into Virginia. We slowed a bit which gave us an opportunity to see a large sailboat sitting very low in the shallow water. We had not noticed it as we passed in January. Only one side of the bridge opened, but there was plenty of room to slide through. The Centerville Bridge opened on request without delay. We called it a day at the free dock in Great Bridge. The rain continued into the evening and we stayed inside with the both the heat running and a string of ball games on the TV.

You See Where You Focus

Belhaven to Camden Point  |  9.4 Hours  |  66.7 Miles  

We experienced a first this morning. For the first time in all of our travels, we departed Belhaven after sunrise. That's not to say that our 7:30 start was late. For our early winter trips south, the sun rises late and daylight hours are short. In the past, we've headed north in early spring with longer hours of daylight. The difference "dawned" on us as being the switch to Daylight Savings Time. Had we arrived in Belhaven two days later, we would have again left with the sunrise. I missed the dramatic scenery while raising the anchor, but appreciated the additional light. I also appreciated the slightly warmer temperature and braved the morning in only three layers. As expected, the anchor came up caked with three inches of mud and the chain was hidden in a gooey black sleeve. It took a while to clean everything up, but I finished before we entered the Alligator-Pungo Canal. It was a pretty morning with bright blue sky, a few clouds, and light wind. 

The ride through the long, straight canal took about two hours. We had the canal all to ourselves and drove right down the middle while admiring the scenery. Compared to the "old days" the trip today was a piece of cake. We used to dread this trip because there was no radio stations, no cell service, and no internet. Thanks to Starlink, we surfed, streamed music, made phone calls, and played online games in addition to looking out over the horizon. Playing with depth of field settings yielded the philosophical thought of the day, "You see where you focus." Throughout this challenging trip, we've tried to look at the big picture and keep our focus on our surroundings beyond Crossroads. We exited the canal into the Alligator River. Soon the Alligator River Bridge was in sight and we called in with the standard request for an opening. Our timing coincided with a shift change so we had to wait for a while. The cloud cover increased as did the wind-driven waves. The span swung open and we passed through. A pod of pelicans formed a receiving line atop the bridge fender and greeted us ambivalently as we entered Albemarle Sound. An occasional wave sent spray up on the windshield, but overall it was an easy and uneventful crossing. Once in the North River we pulled off into a familiar anchorage in Broad Creek and dropped the hook for the night. While warmer than our trip south, it is still chilly outside. Both the generator and ball game are on and all is comfortable onboard. 

Changing Our View

Beaufort to Belhaven  |  8.1 Hours  |  58.3 Miles  

The moment finally arrived. We pulled out of our slip just before 8:00, said farewell to Town Creek Marina, passed under the bridge that has been a permanent fixture in my sunset photos, and departed Beaufort.  

A light drizzle fell and required the occasional use of our windshield wipers. Our eyes were wide open and our heads on swivels as we excitedly took in all the views and activities associated with water travel. Three dolphins escorted us into Core Creek. Pelicans glided inches from the water. Once in Adams Creek a work barge carrying artificial reefs passed. Hundreds of birds flew in formation close to the water. As we exited into the Neuse River we spotted a derelict sailboat in the grasses, demasted and headsail shredded. The Neuse was remarkably calm and we had an easy ride without a single drop of spray over the bow. The clouds were beginning to break and we were kept alert by occasional southbound vessels -- a car ferry and a trawler smaller than us. 

By noon it was a beautiful day and we were enjoying the bright sun heating up the pilothouse. 

A waterman in short sleeves watched as we passed alongside his boat in the Hobucken Canal. Keeping a long-running tradition alive, I snapped a photo of the shrimp boats at the RE Mayo dock. The day went by quickly and it was wonderful to be moving again. By 4:00 we had followed our previous tracks inside the breakwater in Belhaven and dropped our anchor in a familiar spot. We cleaned up and relaxed a bit before dinner. Once the chicken was in the oven it was time to go outside and view the sunset. Mother Nature did not disappoint in the nightly show of colors. It was, however, weird not seeing the Beaufort Bridge in the foreground. The beauty of cruising is the opportunity to continually change our view. I could get used to this one, but we will take advantage of good weather and move again tomorrow. 

The End of Our Beaufort Era?

Beaufort  

The cycle continues. Yesterday's beautiful weather quickly transitioned to the antithesis today. It was raining when we woke up. It rained and rained. All day, one thick gray cloud encompassed the entire view from the pilothouse. There was an occasional rumble of thunder and even a few flashes of lightning. The wind kicked up and gusted in the mid-30s by late afternoon. As hard as it rained, we found it interesting that the starboard midship piling was expectedly soaking wet on the windward (dark/right) side and surprisingly dry on the leeward (light/left) side -- indicative of the wind's strength and consistency. We made a final trip to the store to pick up enough turkey, fruit, and vegetables to last for the next two weeks. As we drove back to the marina the flag was still flying stiff. We left the Escape in long-term parking and made what we hope is our final walk down the dock to Crossroads. 

In hindsight, this delay could not have happened in a much better spot. Granted, I would have preferred warmer weather and bluer water, but from Day 1, Town Creek Marina and Beaufort have been fabulous. Steve, Carol, and the whole staff at the marina have been most helpful. They recommended Braswell Welding and Cape Lookout Canvas as contractors to put us back together. Both companies were responsive and did excellent work. We were in the right place at the right time to take advantage of their skills. (We also doubt that we could have found any better contractors back home.) Geographically, we were blessed to be able to go home and also explore many new areas. Thanks again to my Aunt Wrenn for hooking us up with Atlantic Beach and all the beauty it had to offer. Mother Nature was the only nemesis and she fought us tooth and nail the entire time. The wind, in particular, was our biggest foe. From the original storm damage, to causing delays in repair work, and offering limited travel options, the wind has ruled every move of every day. A highlight of our stay has been a clear view of the sunset beyond the US 70 Bridge over Gallants Channel. Every night, whether it had been a good day or not, I anxiously awaited the evening's final colors. I have mentioned it before, but the images below show how the sun's position has moved in reference to the bridge during our stay. 

So, it is our intention to end our Beaufort Era tomorrow morning and move on after 62 days, 58 days later than expected. Due to the lateness in the season, the lack of a four day offshore weather window to quickly get to The Bahamas, and most of our cruising budget being exhausted on marina and contractor fees, we will head north and not continue south. We are disappointed for sure, but feel this is the smart choice. We will not, however, rush back to Deltaville and hope to visit a few new places along the way. We'll continue to make the most of our Chicken Salad and Lemonade Tour and hope you'll continue to follow along until we return to Deltaville just before Easter.

Beyond Exit 95 on Interstate 95

Beaufort  

An absolutely beautiful morning had us eager to get outside and complete a few final (for now) boat projects. As we worked in the cockpit, Town Creek was busy with all modes of water travel. A kayak passed alongside a waterman while sailboats departed the anchorage and center consoles headed toward Beaufort Inlet. A large mosquito was even a welcome site at this time of year. With chores, showers, and lunch done, we were off to our destination of Smithfield, NC.  New signs of the changing seasons were everywhere. Roadside displays touting a bridal fair and pork-cookin' challenge battled for our attention with blooming forsythia, red buds, and Bradford pear trees. Boats were lined up at the launch ramp awaiting their time to get in the water. I did some quick research and identified three stops to make before our final destination. First up, lured by a Roadside America review as being "epic," was Dinosaur Skeleton Sculptures in Pikeville. The 30-foot T-Rex was the first installation and easily spotted on the horizon. This sculpture garden is located on the property of Benton & Sons, a company that specializes in heavy steel and stainless steel sheet fabrication. 

Over the past 15 years the number of dinosaurs have increased, other species have been added to the display, and a side venture in retail has evolved. I walked around and gawked at hundreds of items, noting that some were covered wrapped in lights. Pleasantly surprised, we moved on to the next stop.

This stop came to us through Trip Advisor. I doubt we could have found this place without the help of Google maps. Multiple turns finally terminated in a cul-de-sac. Contradictory messages met us as the directional arrow stood only slightly higher than the private property and no trespassing signs. Wild Bill's Western Town Shadowhawk is a replica of a Wild West town built in 1997 by former Hollywood actor Bill Drake in his large back yard. We're still not convinced that the place was officially open, but two gentlemen and a rooster welcomed us and told us to walk the "street" and take some pictures and that's what we did. (Side note: the rooster immediately transported me to The Bahamas with memories of their 24-hour a day crowing in Rock Sound and Governor's Harbour.) Over the years, this recreation of the past has served as a set for movies and as a wedding venue. We stopped by the saloon (complete with piano), ... 

... chapel (with rules posted at the door, and beautiful pews), and a few other buildings. From certain angles, the vintage vibe was still strong. All that took about 10 minutes. We passed through the authentic swinging doors and hit the road again.

We advanced still closer to our destination and stopped in downtown Smithfield at the Ava Gardner Museum. Other than recognizing her name and the titles of some of her more famous movies, I didn't know squat about the native of Grabtown, NC, located seven miles east of Smithfield. A nice sign in Historic Downtown Smithfield marked the location. Free on-street parking right in front on the elegant building was a bonus. We arrived at 4:00 and the museum closed at 4:30. The sweet docent explained that that have over 500 exhibits and it usually takes folks a couple of hours to see everything along with the film. We were skeptical, but soon became converts. This museum was beautiful and well-lit, the exhibits comprehensive and beautiful. I'd even venture to say they were of Smithsonian quality.   

I was shocked by the number and greatness of her A-list costars (Gregory Peck, Burt Lancaster, Humphrey Bogart, tons more) and husbands (Mickey Rooney, Artie Shaw, Frank Sinatra). In the end we could have easily stayed much longer. Barry had set an alarm so that we would exit before closing and we did. A large mural on the side of the museum was just as elegant as the museum. 

We walked along East Market Street, the main thoroughfare and spotted the clock. Extra credit was awarded for accurate time, but was then negated by a significant deduction for not having the town name displayed. The artwork on the Evans Jewelers building and a statue in front of the library received extra attention. After circling the block we hopped in the Escape and moved on to our ultimate destination of the day. For most folks, Smithfield is "Exit 95 off of Interstate 95" at the Carolina Premium Outlets. Thankfully for us, there are also several restaurants that made for an easy meet-up with dear friends Chris and Gina as they traveled home from Florida and back to New Jersey. We had driven to Roanoke Rapids a month ago for a similar meeting and lamented about not having enough time to visit. How happy we were to be able to coordinate catching them again. We visited for several hours before eventually saying goodbye until summer. They drove on to Roanoke Rapids for the night and we headed back to Beaufort.

Even though it was late, we still made a 20-minute detour to see the dinosaur sculptures lit up at night. What a cool display. Rain began to fall soon thereafter and we made it back to the boat just before midnight. Sorry for the late post, but sleep was calling my name.