Treasure Hunting

Rock Sound   

It was a beautiful day to explore. Barry and Greg knew that Glenda and I were geared up for a long walk across the island to and along the beach, and they elected not to participate. Barry shuttled us girls to the dinghy dock and we made our way down Queens Highway and turned onto Fish Street. A local artist had many outdoor paintings on display including a map of the area and a welcome sign. Fish Street is a long, straight, paved, and direct line across the highest point of the island. A short walk from the end of the road on a sandy path through the trees completed the trip to Pink Beach. We were coming off a high tide, but there was still plenty of soft sand to walk along. We headed north first. Large rocky ledges offshore kept the waves small. After the long walk, it was refreshing to splash barefooted in the surf.   

As the sand ended, beautiful palm trees on a private estate rose above the dunes. The real find was the large stretch of sand with a very pronounced pink coloration. The pink comes from the shells of the tiny marine organism foraminifera mixing with the white sand. 

We reversed course and headed south. The sand gradually transitioned to a rocky moonscape. Our bare feet were soon protected by flip flops as we walked head down looking for treasures in the crevices and tidal pools. We made a great haul of sea glass to add to Glenda's collection, sometimes prying free large pieces seemingly "stuck" in nooks and crannies. The biggest surprise was when I found a large sea bean sitting all alone in clean sand. By far the most valuable treasure was the new memories made while just hanging out together. On our way back to the harbor, we stopped at Hall's Grocery and picked up a few things. By the time we returned to the dinghy dock we had completed the Rock Sound 10k (6.2 miles). Barry picked us up and transported our hot and tired bodies back to our respective boats. Hydration, showers, and a little rest were enjoyed for the next few hours. 

We gathered aboard Paradigm Shift to visit with the pups and for a great dinner in the cockpit. I watched the sun set through the aft hawse hole for a different perspective. To cap off the evening we were treated to a serving of Glenda's homemade ice cream. She is the hostess with the mostest and a true treasure.   

Doing It Here Was Extra Special

Rock Sound   

Today's storyline could have just as easily taken place in the middle of a Virginia summer. That fact that everything occurred in The Bahamas made it extra special. A few morning chores were completed before I met up with Glenda for a walk to Market Place Store. Fresh produce was being stocked as we walked in the door and we quickly checked off most of the items on our lists. Our biggest conundrum was whether to splurge on the large bags of fruit or the half gallons of juice knowing that we'd have to carry our purchases back to the dinghy dock. We chose smartly and were able to get everything into the large bags we brought along. When we returned to the dinghy dock I spotted Crossroads through a gap in the trees. What could be better? A few more steps revealed the answer -- Paradigm Shift a short distance away. After a quick reset and a visit with the pups, we gathered our laundry and headed back into town. We combined for four loads at 3Ts and had the most enjoyable wait visiting with "Showboat," the owner. He spent his early years as a member of the Bahamian national fast pitch softball team and travelled extensively. The former center fielder is a huge New York Yankees fan and we tossed names back and forth of all the Yankee greats through the years. Once again, the Bahamians we meet in our travels are just as beautiful as the scenery.

We got our steps in today and received bonus points for carrying the bags. We had an hour or so back onboard to put away our laundry before meeting at Wild Orchids for a delicious dinner on the deck. All four of us enjoyed the seafood pasta (and the wonderful staff). On a quick walk around the building the white blossoms of a plumeria caught my eye. A final farewell and selfie on the dock closed a great day. Later, Glenda and I got a good laugh at the photo. I can only chuckle at the wild hair, and treasure the memory of a special day. It is what it is, and hours of Photoshop were not in the cards. We arrived back at the motherships in time to enjoy a nice sunset from the flybridge.

Island Hopping

New Bight, Cat Island to Rock Sound, Eleuthera  |  10.3 Hours  |  76.6 Miles   

A chorus of roosters provided our early morning wake up call. I was on deck at first light and we had pulled away from Cat Island before even a hint of orange appeared in the sky. Heavy cloud cover prolonged the sunrise and created richer colors. The sky eventually transitioned to blue, but the clouds remained for a few more hours. We set the autopilot for our hop to the southern tip of Eleuthera, the next large island north. No rain was in the forecast, but Barry was fortunate enough to catch a rainbow -- a result of the sun hitting the edge of the pilothouse window at just the right angle. We joked about chasing and finding the mythical associated treasure.

The waves were low in a following sea which made for a pleasant ride. We took turns on watch and when Barry had the helm, I moved to the flybridge and enjoyed the sunshine. Most of the day was spent in the open water of Exuma Sound with very little scenery. We passed Carnival's Half Moon Cay on Little San Salvador and could only make out the white sand beach in the distance. Waves built as we moved from the lee of Cat Island. By noon we had spotted rocky Lighthouse Point at the southern end of Eleuthera. The beachside cabins' colorful roofs at Disney's port occupied the sandy beach. A short distance north, colorful umbrellas signaled the location of Princess Cays. It was odd to see all three cruise ship ports empty and void of the massive cities of the water. The ships will arrive overnight. Boat traffic picked up as we neared Powell Point and the Cape Eleuthera Resort and Marina. 

We turned east into Davis Channel and passed the familiar Stone Beacon perched on a sandbar. We also turned into the wind and our pleasant ride turned into a salty one as wind-driven waves sent spray over the bow and onto the windshield. The cargo ship Vi Nais passed us outbound from the Rock Sound dock. We followed our old tracks into the familiar anchorage and found our "pot of gold." Paradigm Shift had arrived a short time before us. After our anchor was set Glenda and Cooper shouted hello, and boy did it sound good after our longest day on the water since arriving in The Bahamas. Following showers and dinner, we watched our first Eleuthera sunset from the cockpit. We're hoping the cargo ship dropped off some fresh produce. A grocery run is on tap for tomorrow when we go to shore.

A Slow Day For A Change

New Bight  

The wind continues to be brisk. Overnight, it whipped our flag into a tattered knot. Unfortunately we do not have a replacement, so we'll have to nurse it along for another month. After hitting the highlights of the area yesterday, our morning was slow. I polished our stainless steel bimini frame and removed a few obnoxious spots on the fiberglass. After that, I retreated to my Happy Place on Fiberglass Beach and split time between staring at the water, watching the clouds, reading the first 100 pages of a new book, and, maybe, a Cat (island) nap or two. 

Around 2:00 we gathered up our trash and took the dinghy to shore to stretch our legs. The wind was much calmer on land and it even seemed a bit warm. Barry dropped off the trash and then we went for a stroll up the beach. New today were a group of gulls circling and then strolling on the sand. We walked further north than we did yesterday, before turning around and heading back to the dinghy. 

Once back on Crossroads we raised the dinghy to the upper deck in preparation for tomorrow's early morning departure. The sun set in spectacular fashion on our time in Cat Island. Tomorrow we will make the long run to Eleuthera, a sign that our time in The Bahamas is running short. Back at home, our wonderful neighbor Ken cut our grass for the first time. A check of the camera showed the cherry tree has leafed out, the tulip magnolias are blooming, and my peonies have foot-high shoots. The azaleas will be turning red soon. Once the pollen is gone, it will be safe to return.

A Climb To The Highest Peak ... Rewarded

Old Bight to New Bight  |  .9 Hours  |  4.1 Miles   

A pretty sunrise ushered in the day. We upped anchor a little past 8:00 and made our way four miles north on Cat Island to the more commercialized town of New Bight. While setting the anchor I noticed a large sign being installed on the beachfront. Once we got to shore we took a good look at what is going to be a beautiful sign with colorful letters and the historic tower of Mt. Alvernia serving as the "I." I spoke with an on-site worker and learned that only the electrical work remains to be completed. Hopefully by next week the black plastic will be removed. I cannot wait to see it -- next year. After a quick stop to put on my sneakers, we walked a short distance up the road, and past the sweeping palm tree, to Olive's Bakery. To avoid the possibility of being sold out later in the day, we purchased her famous almond pound cake and stored it in the backpack.

Our main destination was in view from sea level. We set off up the paved road and enjoyed the sights along the way. Wildflowers were plentiful and both the purple spurred butterfly pea and bright yellow damiana caught my eye. Further up the road, our ears were alerted to the next points of interest. Several goats were tethered along the road. They were quite talkative, but not aggressive. The road took us to a path which led up to Como Hill, the highest point in The Bahamas at 206-feet above sea level.

Sitting atop the hill, also known as Mt. Alvernia, is The Hermitage. Monsignor John Hawes, a Roman Catholic priest and skilled architect and sculptor known to locals as Father Jerome, built the small medieval monastery in 1939 as a place to get away from the world. The next uphill segment of the trail was lined mainly with tall trees, although a small palm was also present. The path veered to the right to follow the rocky "Stations of The Cross" trail to the top. Elaborate hand carved stone monuments marked the 14 Stations of The Cross, each one representing a different moment in Jesus' Passion and Death. Station 1 (Condemned to Death), Station 2 (Carries the Cross), and Station 3 (Falls for the First Time) were all placed on relatively flat ground. After that narrow rock steps led upward with frequent switch-backs.

Lush plants grew in the rock. Although all Stations are represented for a bit of brevity, I've only included the more dramatic ones here. Station 7 (Falls for the Second Time), Station 8 (Meets the Women), Station 9 (Falls for the Third Time), Station 11 (Nailed to the Cross), and Station 14 (Laid in the Tomb) directed the way to the base of the monastery. 

The blue sky served as a great backdrop. Father Jerome was a small man and he constructed the buildings on a smaller scale. Our first stop was the chapel with a single-seat pew and a small altar. 

Barry signed the attendance register then we walked though the rooms to the other side. I entered the bell tower and swung the rope attached to the clapper to make the bell toll. We were fortunate to be the only ones atop the hill which made for good photo opportunities, both tighter ...

... and wider. Back down the hill we went, looking at more flowers (I love lantana) and more goats.

At sea level, we walked along the main road and looked at the signs as we entered the Fish Fry area. Being Friday afternoon, many of the little food vendors were open. The bar at Duke's Conch Stand was busy, but we had our sights set on a treat we haven't had since we entered The Bahamas. Comforted that Lil Gippy's was open, we continued our walk down the road before eventually cutting over to the beach. 

We approached our final destination from the waterfront and enjoyed two nice cones for only $6 ... total. What a deal! And we were able to enjoy an amazing view along with our treat.

The walk back to the dinghy was done in the surf. This section of beach was coarser and less dense than our previous location. The water was also more exposed to the wind which created more wave action onshore. The tide had risen a bit more than expected and I went out in chest-deep water to bring the dinghy in for Barry.

Back on Crossroads, there was time for showers and a little reading (finally finished latest book), before dinner and sunset. Tonight the orange clouds to the west had some competition from the white clouds and still-blue sky to the east. 

Back For Seconds

Old Bight     

Showers swept through the anchorage shortly after daylight. The clouds, wind, and whitecaps remained for several hours. After lunch the blue sky and sunshine returned and by 2:00 we were in the dinghy heading to shore. Yesterday's walk was so wonderful we came in for a second helping. We anchored just south of Rollezz with our sights set on the southern half of this beautiful crescent beach. Both the dinghy and Crossroads awaited our return.

Barry and I walked barefoot in our standard formation -- him on the dry sand and me in the ankle-deep surf. The surf zone was clean so we scoped out the sand upward to the tree line for interesting items. A makeshift totem constructed of flotsam, tree stumps bleached by the sun's rays, occasional shells like a pair of angel wings, and resilient trees growing from the rocks were all noteworthy. 

There was never a doubt, however, that the main attraction was water. Barry turned back toward the dinghy to begin his assault on another coconut. I continued on to where the sand ended at the rocky entrance to Joe Sound Creek before turning around.

I kept taking photos of the many views that seemed special. Many images look similar, but all will transport me back to this special spot for years to come.

At the end of my two-hour walk I took a dip in the shallows. It doesn't get much better than this. Our dog friend came to visit as we were loading Barry's project into the dinghy. Back onboard he cracked open the coconut and found this one to be a winner. Clouds moved back in for the close of day and muted the sunset. Not wanting to be greedy, we were plenty thankful for a wonderful afternoon.

This Could Be My New Favorite Beach

Old Bight     

From sunset last evening through sunrise this morning we enjoyed a respite from the wind. Crossroads rested quietly in the anchorage with no waves, and no noise from the anchor chain and bridle. I was able to have all the doors open in the pilot house while watching the sun appear over the Cat Island. By 9:00 all of that had changed and the stiff breeze had returned. We had a slow morning onboard with a little cleaning and a couple boat fixes. At noon we were ready to go ashore for lunch at Rollezz Villa Beach Resort. The colorful waterfront cabins made for a scenic trip to the beach -- almost as scenic as our dinghy seemingly hovering above the crystal clear water. 

The resort is very cruiser-friendly. We entered through a beach-front gate onto the beautifully landscaped property. We joined three other cruising couples on the deck for lunch. I had the grouper and Barry had the conch, each came with mashed potatoes, and a freshly-picked garden salad. The meal was absolutely delicious and the atmosphere like no other we've experienced. We watched hummingbirds and curly-tailed lizards moving amongst the palms and bougainvillea against a backdrop of the beautiful Exuma Sound. For after meal entertainment, the resident pup came over for some belly rubs and fell asleep on my foot. 

After saying goodbye to the other folks, Barry and I set out walking along an idyllic stretch of powdery soft yet hard-packed sand. Those conditions were perfect for Barry who removed his Keens to reveal his tiger stripes. Beaches cannot get much prettier than this. Being in the lee of the prevailing easterly winds, there is no wash-up of sea grass or plastic waste to spoil the aesthetic. This definitely could be my new favorite beach.

Only a single ripple came to shore. The waves in the pictures were actually in the sand, not the water. We walked about as far north as possible then turned around to see dark rain clouds moving across the horizon.  

All of the showers passed to our south and we stayed dry throughout our walk and while sitting on the beach swing. The clouds broke up and the sun re-emerged for a few more hours. We returned to Crossroads and opened up all the hatches, doors, and ports so the fresh breeze could blow through the boat. Although the temperature was in the low 80s, the "wind chill" brought out a few goose bumps on my arms as I stood in the cockpit and watched the sunset. 

North To Cat Island

Thompson Bay to Old Bight  |  9.5 Hours  |  64.8 Miles   

Today was moving day. The strong easterly wind and waves had finally settled, making for more comfortable travel. All of the remaining half dozen boats in our Thompson Bay anchorage were scattering to various points, including George Town, Lee Stocking Island, and our destination of Cat Island. Our anchor which held so well during the blow was buried in the sand, but came up cleanly. We were underway before the sun rose over the ridge line of island. After we turned past Indian Head Point and began to parallel the Long Island shoreline, a lone dolphin joined us. We were heading north through some skinny water and noted the many small towns we drove through on our car tour. Once we cleared the Cape Santa Maria Resort at the top of the island, we entered into the deep open ocean water marked by a color change to dark blue. The ocean swells that concerned us did approach four feet, but with an eight second period were easily handled by the stabilizers. Our ride was never uncomfortable and the windows I washed yesterday were never wet by sea spray. A few hours later the sight of land and light blue waters signaled our arrival at Cat Island.     

The chart plotter was a cluttered mess with nine boats converging on the Hawks Nest Point waypoint at the same time. Everyone played nicely together as we crossed the shallow light blue waters to the anchorage. We take advantage of every opportunity possible to gaze across these beautiful waters.  

We anchored among five other boats in the anchorage, but were soon joined by 12 more. We lowered our dinghy and then retired our weather-beaten Bahamas courtesy flag in favor of a crisp new one. Word quickly spread inviting everyone to shore for sundowners. We met four other couples (all with teenagers) and shared stories while watching the sun lower in the sky.

The swirling clouds were the highlight of tonight's show, transitioning from yellow to pink. At near darkness we all dispersed and returned to our boats. Tomorrow will be spent exploring this new-to-us area. 

One Last Walk Along The Pink Sand Of Long Island

Thompson Bay     

Today's sunrise was the signal for many boats in the anchorage to move on to their next destinations. We had made the decision to stay and enjoy one more day in beautiful Long Island. I cleaned our air conditioner return grills and all the exterior windows before moving out to Fiberglass Beach to read. The south wind brought in warmer temperatures and higher humidity, but no complaints from me. After lunch we joined Kelly and Richard (Untethered) and Danielle and Kirk (Sea Horse) on Boaters Beach for another walk of the island. On the trail from our dinghy landing to the road, we passed by a large and deep well/cistern. We all took turns looking in at the water pooled at the bottom. We followed the same route we took yesterday, up the hill toward the lush palm trees, then down to the Atlantic shore. Today's deep blue sky was a definite improvement over yesterday's heavy cloud cover.

We picked up from yesterday's rainout and continued south. It may have been the same stretch of sand, but the beach was entirely new and different. Both the waves and the tide were lower. We walked along a much broader stretch of pink sand. Occasional waves still broke high on the outer reef, but the waves morphed to ripples by the time they reached their furthest point in the sand. 

Every step was a gift in this beautiful setting. 

As we reached the rocky cliffs at the southernmost point of our walk, we came upon two stunning tidal pools. No more than a foot of water filled the deep end. On shore the absence of water revealed intricate arches and passageways carved out by the surf. 

After one final look we retraced our steps back to the dinghy and returned to Crossroads for a brief time onboard. Kelly and I grabbed our trash for one last run to shore. We tied up at Basil's dock and said "Hello" to his sweet dog and marveled once more at his beautiful bougainvillea.   

A quick walk up the road took us to Hillside Market for a  few last-minute provisions. With our bags full, we left the store as the day's final customers. After a quick "Thank You" to Basil and his wife for the use of his dock, we lowered our purchases into the dinghy. The sun had already moved below the horizon as we enjoyed one last high-speed run across the anchorage. Final goodbyes were exchanged and I hopped back onto Crossroads. Barry and I quickly raised our dinghy to the upper deck in preparation for tomorrow's early morning departure. Huge thanks go to Kelly and Richard for all the great times these last few days. Extra thanks to Kelly for all the walks, smiles, and the pictures -- including the three below. The final one was taken today at the tidal pool when I found a large conch shell. 

On a separate note, tremendous thanks to everyone who has followed this little journal over the years. It blows my mind to report that the little picture show I began as a way to organize my photos and memories 834 posts ago has now accumulated 100,000 views. Here's hoping for many more adventures. 

A Sunday In The Palms

Thompson Bay     

It was nice to have a slow morning onboard. I didn't intend to sleep late, but did and hit the floor running. We did a load of laundry and I spent the morning catching up on all sorts of computer work. There was another dive into the commissary to retrieve an item, from the furthest corner possible, that I missed last week. I read a little in the pilothouse and later moved to Fiberglass Beach. The wind had clocked some to the southeast, but was still strong. Around 2:30 Kelly and I went to shore for our daily walk. We anchored her dinghy in the shallow water and walked to Boaters Beach, coming ashore at the tree "decorated" with conch shells. We followed a path through the trees to Queen's Highway then turned onto a road that crossed the island. Along the way we kept commenting on the lushness of the vegetation and were stumped by the presence of a large cactus. Further inland we came upon two grazing wild goats. I was quite surprised by the steep incline, but appreciative of the much-needed cardio workout. As we neared the east side of the island, large groupings of palm trees lined the road. The pavement led to the edge of the dune where the stalk of a century plant towered above its surroundings. These plants bloom only once during its entire life (which is closer to 20-30 years). The stalk can reach a height of 30 feet and produces yellow flowers.   

Through the seas oats, the path opened onto a wide and flat beach. We walked north first and enjoyed the blue sky and gentle waves. Much like yesterday's beach, this cove was protected by a rocky outer reef that settled the surf before it arrived on the pink sand.   

Large rock formations lined the shore. A tall cliff extended out into the Atlantic and signaled the end of our northern trek.   

We turned south and walked through the surf, studying the waves as they broke around the rocks. As we continued walking, the waves breaking offshore became more impressive.  

The sky also darkened and rain was spotted offshore. We never quite made it to our destination rock. Rain began to fall so we turned around and headed to our trail. Once again we stopped to admire the onshore vegetation.  

The rock beyond the dunes had been eroded to form several caves. Back on the path, we stopped at the palm trees and gave them a closer inspection. Several different species were intermixed. The tall coconut palms craned at odd angles in search of sunlight, while the smaller palms kept their fan-shaped fronds at eye level.     

Today was the Fourth Sunday of Lent, but for Kelly and I it was more like Palm Sunday. We enjoyed our time in this small, but beautiful, oasis. In the palm tree nursery, five coconuts had given life to new sprouts. After gathering a couple of coconuts for the boys, we headed up the steep hill. Uphill both ways? Somehow we did not remember there being a downhill stretch only a few hours prior. A heavy shower took our minds off of the climb. By the time we returned to the dinghy we were drenched, but the squall had moved through and the sun was shining bright in a blue sky. After a shower and getting into dry clothes, it was time to fix dinner and close the day with another beautiful Bahamian sunset.