A Slow Day For A Change

New Bight  

The wind continues to be brisk. Overnight, it whipped our flag into a tattered knot. Unfortunately we do not have a replacement, so we'll have to nurse it along for another month. After hitting the highlights of the area yesterday, our morning was slow. I polished our stainless steel bimini frame and removed a few obnoxious spots on the fiberglass. After that, I retreated to my Happy Place on Fiberglass Beach and split time between staring at the water, watching the clouds, reading the first 100 pages of a new book, and, maybe, a Cat (island) nap or two. 

Around 2:00 we gathered up our trash and took the dinghy to shore to stretch our legs. The wind was much calmer on land and it even seemed a bit warm. Barry dropped off the trash and then we went for a stroll up the beach. New today were a group of gulls circling and then strolling on the sand. We walked further north than we did yesterday, before turning around and heading back to the dinghy. 

Once back on Crossroads we raised the dinghy to the upper deck in preparation for tomorrow's early morning departure. The sun set in spectacular fashion on our time in Cat Island. Tomorrow we will make the long run to Eleuthera, a sign that our time in The Bahamas is running short. Back at home, our wonderful neighbor Ken cut our grass for the first time. A check of the camera showed the cherry tree has leafed out, the tulip magnolias are blooming, and my peonies have foot-high shoots. The azaleas will be turning red soon. Once the pollen is gone, it will be safe to return.

A Climb To The Highest Peak ... Rewarded

Old Bight to New Bight  |  .9 Hours  |  4.1 Miles   

A pretty sunrise ushered in the day. We upped anchor a little past 8:00 and made our way four miles north on Cat Island to the more commercialized town of New Bight. While setting the anchor I noticed a large sign being installed on the beachfront. Once we got to shore we took a good look at what is going to be a beautiful sign with colorful letters and the historic tower of Mt. Alvernia serving as the "I." I spoke with an on-site worker and learned that only the electrical work remains to be completed. Hopefully by next week the black plastic will be removed. I cannot wait to see it -- next year. After a quick stop to put on my sneakers, we walked a short distance up the road, and past the sweeping palm tree, to Olive's Bakery. To avoid the possibility of being sold out later in the day, we purchased her famous almond pound cake and stored it in the backpack.

Our main destination was in view from sea level. We set off up the paved road and enjoyed the sights along the way. Wildflowers were plentiful and both the purple spurred butterfly pea and bright yellow damiana caught my eye. Further up the road, our ears were alerted to the next points of interest. Several goats were tethered along the road. They were quite talkative, but not aggressive. The road took us to a path which led up to Como Hill, the highest point in The Bahamas at 206-feet above sea level.

Sitting atop the hill, also known as Mt. Alvernia, is The Hermitage. Monsignor John Hawes, a Roman Catholic priest and skilled architect and sculptor known to locals as Father Jerome, built the small medieval monastery in 1939 as a place to get away from the world. The next uphill segment of the trail was lined mainly with tall trees, although a small palm was also present. The path veered to the right to follow the rocky "Stations of The Cross" trail to the top. Elaborate hand carved stone monuments marked the 14 Stations of The Cross, each one representing a different moment in Jesus' Passion and Death. Station 1 (Condemned to Death), Station 2 (Carries the Cross), and Station 3 (Falls for the First Time) were all placed on relatively flat ground. After that narrow rock steps led upward with frequent switch-backs.

Lush plants grew in the rock. Although all Stations are represented for a bit of brevity, I've only included the more dramatic ones here. Station 7 (Falls for the Second Time), Station 8 (Meets the Women), Station 9 (Falls for the Third Time), Station 11 (Nailed to the Cross), and Station 14 (Laid in the Tomb) directed the way to the base of the monastery. 

The blue sky served as a great backdrop. Father Jerome was a small man and he constructed the buildings on a smaller scale. Our first stop was the chapel with a single-seat pew and a small altar. 

Barry signed the attendance register then we walked though the rooms to the other side. I entered the bell tower and swung the rope attached to the clapper to make the bell toll. We were fortunate to be the only ones atop the hill which made for good photo opportunities, both tighter ...

... and wider. Back down the hill we went, looking at more flowers (I love lantana) and more goats.

At sea level, we walked along the main road and looked at the signs as we entered the Fish Fry area. Being Friday afternoon, many of the little food vendors were open. The bar at Duke's Conch Stand was busy, but we had our sights set on a treat we haven't had since we entered The Bahamas. Comforted that Lil Gippy's was open, we continued our walk down the road before eventually cutting over to the beach. 

We approached our final destination from the waterfront and enjoyed two nice cones for only $6 ... total. What a deal! And we were able to enjoy an amazing view along with our treat.

The walk back to the dinghy was done in the surf. This section of beach was coarser and less dense than our previous location. The water was also more exposed to the wind which created more wave action onshore. The tide had risen a bit more than expected and I went out in chest-deep water to bring the dinghy in for Barry.

Back on Crossroads, there was time for showers and a little reading (finally finished latest book), before dinner and sunset. Tonight the orange clouds to the west had some competition from the white clouds and still-blue sky to the east. 

Back For Seconds

Old Bight     

Showers swept through the anchorage shortly after daylight. The clouds, wind, and whitecaps remained for several hours. After lunch the blue sky and sunshine returned and by 2:00 we were in the dinghy heading to shore. Yesterday's walk was so wonderful we came in for a second helping. We anchored just south of Rollezz with our sights set on the southern half of this beautiful crescent beach. Both the dinghy and Crossroads awaited our return.

Barry and I walked barefoot in our standard formation -- him on the dry sand and me in the ankle-deep surf. The surf zone was clean so we scoped out the sand upward to the tree line for interesting items. A makeshift totem constructed of flotsam, tree stumps bleached by the sun's rays, occasional shells like a pair of angel wings, and resilient trees growing from the rocks were all noteworthy. 

There was never a doubt, however, that the main attraction was water. Barry turned back toward the dinghy to begin his assault on another coconut. I continued on to where the sand ended at the rocky entrance to Joe Sound Creek before turning around.

I kept taking photos of the many views that seemed special. Many images look similar, but all will transport me back to this special spot for years to come.

At the end of my two-hour walk I took a dip in the shallows. It doesn't get much better than this. Our dog friend came to visit as we were loading Barry's project into the dinghy. Back onboard he cracked open the coconut and found this one to be a winner. Clouds moved back in for the close of day and muted the sunset. Not wanting to be greedy, we were plenty thankful for a wonderful afternoon.

This Could Be My New Favorite Beach

Old Bight     

From sunset last evening through sunrise this morning we enjoyed a respite from the wind. Crossroads rested quietly in the anchorage with no waves, and no noise from the anchor chain and bridle. I was able to have all the doors open in the pilot house while watching the sun appear over the Cat Island. By 9:00 all of that had changed and the stiff breeze had returned. We had a slow morning onboard with a little cleaning and a couple boat fixes. At noon we were ready to go ashore for lunch at Rollezz Villa Beach Resort. The colorful waterfront cabins made for a scenic trip to the beach -- almost as scenic as our dinghy seemingly hovering above the crystal clear water. 

The resort is very cruiser-friendly. We entered through a beach-front gate onto the beautifully landscaped property. We joined three other cruising couples on the deck for lunch. I had the grouper and Barry had the conch, each came with mashed potatoes, and a freshly-picked garden salad. The meal was absolutely delicious and the atmosphere like no other we've experienced. We watched hummingbirds and curly-tailed lizards moving amongst the palms and bougainvillea against a backdrop of the beautiful Exuma Sound. For after meal entertainment, the resident pup came over for some belly rubs and fell asleep on my foot. 

After saying goodbye to the other folks, Barry and I set out walking along an idyllic stretch of powdery soft yet hard-packed sand. Those conditions were perfect for Barry who removed his Keens to reveal his tiger stripes. Beaches cannot get much prettier than this. Being in the lee of the prevailing easterly winds, there is no wash-up of sea grass or plastic waste to spoil the aesthetic. This definitely could be my new favorite beach.

Only a single ripple came to shore. The waves in the pictures were actually in the sand, not the water. We walked about as far north as possible then turned around to see dark rain clouds moving across the horizon.  

All of the showers passed to our south and we stayed dry throughout our walk and while sitting on the beach swing. The clouds broke up and the sun re-emerged for a few more hours. We returned to Crossroads and opened up all the hatches, doors, and ports so the fresh breeze could blow through the boat. Although the temperature was in the low 80s, the "wind chill" brought out a few goose bumps on my arms as I stood in the cockpit and watched the sunset. 

North To Cat Island

Thompson Bay to Old Bight  |  9.5 Hours  |  64.8 Miles   

Today was moving day. The strong easterly wind and waves had finally settled, making for more comfortable travel. All of the remaining half dozen boats in our Thompson Bay anchorage were scattering to various points, including George Town, Lee Stocking Island, and our destination of Cat Island. Our anchor which held so well during the blow was buried in the sand, but came up cleanly. We were underway before the sun rose over the ridge line of island. After we turned past Indian Head Point and began to parallel the Long Island shoreline, a lone dolphin joined us. We were heading north through some skinny water and noted the many small towns we drove through on our car tour. Once we cleared the Cape Santa Maria Resort at the top of the island, we entered into the deep open ocean water marked by a color change to dark blue. The ocean swells that concerned us did approach four feet, but with an eight second period were easily handled by the stabilizers. Our ride was never uncomfortable and the windows I washed yesterday were never wet by sea spray. A few hours later the sight of land and light blue waters signaled our arrival at Cat Island.     

The chart plotter was a cluttered mess with nine boats converging on the Hawks Nest Point waypoint at the same time. Everyone played nicely together as we crossed the shallow light blue waters to the anchorage. We take advantage of every opportunity possible to gaze across these beautiful waters.  

We anchored among five other boats in the anchorage, but were soon joined by 12 more. We lowered our dinghy and then retired our weather-beaten Bahamas courtesy flag in favor of a crisp new one. Word quickly spread inviting everyone to shore for sundowners. We met four other couples (all with teenagers) and shared stories while watching the sun lower in the sky.

The swirling clouds were the highlight of tonight's show, transitioning from yellow to pink. At near darkness we all dispersed and returned to our boats. Tomorrow will be spent exploring this new-to-us area.