Our Final Day in Florida

Day 284  |  Key Biscayne      

It was a busy day although I don't have many pictures to prove it. Our trek to Winn-Dixie occupied most of the morning. At just shy of two miles each way, we were easily dissuaded from purchasing a bunch of extra stuff or heavy items. We each filled our bags for the walk back to Crossroads. The large Easter chick stuffed animal was cute, but had to stay behind. This Winn-Dixie is in a flood-prone hurricane zone and built over a parking garage. There are escalators for people and an automated cart conveyer to get purchases down to car level. I enjoyed watching the whole process. Time will tell whether the five-pound bag of apples was worth lugging them back.

Purchases got stowed away and a few last minute maintenance projects completed. Half of the anchorage emptied out this morning with a parade of outgoing boats starting before sunrise. I headed up to Fiberglass Beach, finished one book, and began another. Two dolphins were chasing fish just off our bow. By mid-afternoon, the inbound parade began and we watched a wide variety of boats take their spot in the anchorage. Jeff and Melissa on Flip Flop arrived and we went over to visit and meet their dog Scout. We are planning to buddy-boat with them to Bimini tomorrow. All plans seemed to be finalized so we returned to Crossroads and immediately put the dinghy back on the upper deck. Tonight's sunset was probably the best we'd had while here at No Name, but no pictures. My phone was resting safely downstairs during the whole light show.  

So, if all goes as planned, tomorrow we will report from South Bimini, Bahamas. I have looked forward to this portion of the trip since before we left and can't wait to get there.

The Many Faces of Mother Nature

Day 283  |  Key Biscayne      

We explored the east-facing beach of Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Park this morning. The condos and resorts of Key Biscayne are in the foreground, Miami in the distance to the north. This beach was not very populated as it was covered in wrack, with no clear areas in the sand for towels or chairs. Wrack is the accumulation of grasses, algae, and woody material at the high-water line. The information sign piqued my interest enough to take a stroll, by pointing out that sea beans and sea glass are often found in the wrack. I saw neither, so we took off on a new trail.I'm looking forward to finding my first sea beans soon in the Bahamas. A nice boardwalk led through the sea grapes and over the dunes.

We walked into town to visit the hardware store and identify a few places to visit tomorrow -- our last day in Florida. Afternoon thunderstorms were predicted to roll through and since we had left all the hatches and ports open, we made a quicker than usual return to Crossroads. I sat up on Fiberglass Beach and read while watching the clouds approach from across Biscayne Bay. Twenty minutes of hard rain and gusty winds produced a decent rainbow and set the stage for another brilliant sunset.

We have compiled a list of last-minute To-Dos and loose ends to account for. With generous and gracious help from a friend back home (Cindy), and conversations with friends here in Florida (Chris) and in the Bahamas (Glenda), all is looking good. As a final treat, I even got to watch the Hoos beat Georgia Tech on my phone tonight while I worked on this post.

Things get real again tomorrow, on our final day in Key Biscayne, with a few errands in town, stowing things away, taking out the trash, and getting the dinghy back on the upper deck. We're looking forward to turning left and making our way to Bimini.

A Few Hours on Lighthouse Beach

Day 282  |  Key Biscayne      

Growing skeptical of the experts' prediction of stormy weather, we packed up all our "stuff" and walked down to Lighthouse Beach. When we reached the sand, the sky was blue, the sun was warm, and there was a nice sea breeze. It was, however, definitely blowing harder on this side of the island than in the harbor. It was a challenge to get our towels spread out, but after a few "Olés" we were successful. We took a nice walk in the surf to the base of the Cape Florida Lighthouse. This is a beautiful park and one of the nicest areas we've encountered on our trip. We came back to our spot in the sand for a nap and some ray-catching, but quickly realized that renting beach chairs would be our best option in this breeze. For today, renting was better than carrying.

We didn't get much sleep last night (more on that later) and both fell asleep listening to the lapping of the waves. When we woke up an hour or so later, the sky was completely overcast, the breeze was stiffer, and it was a tad bit chilly. We packed up and headed back to Crossroads. We followed the same path we took yesterday and found the raccoons fending for their own meals and plenty of iguanas along the seawall. When we got to the mothership, the party on the frat boat beside us was going strong. This boat with four twenty-something guys onboard came into the anchorage this morning just after midnight. They pulled up within twenty feet of our bow and dropped anchor while shouting at each other and shining their spotlights in our master ports. Needless to say, we didn't get much sleep after that adrenaline rush and with the subsequent worrying about them dragging or swinging into us. All it takes is one ship of fools to ruin the peaceful experience of an entire anchorage. Hopefully tonight will be quiet and restful. Barry and I spent the afternoon planning for our departure to Bimini with all our trusted guides pulled out. We think we've got the phone transition all taken care of, a marina to check into to clear Customs, a buddy boat, and comprehensive weather reports. All seem to agree that Friday will be a great day to cross. Once in Bimini, another front will roll through that may somewhat delay our progress to the Exumas. Any delay is unwelcome, but all is subject to change and part of the process.

Our Spot In No Name Harbor

Day 281  |  Key Biscayne      

Knowing that our desired anchorage already had well over a dozen boats calling it home, it was our mission to be underway at first light to stake our place in No Name Harbor. At 6:30 our anchor was up and we were creeping through the entrance. We were relieved to find enough space for a couple of boats and we found a nice spot just beyond the opening. As the wind was to continue out of the north and east, we would be well protected during our stay. We cleaned Crossroads up from a long yesterday on the water, followed by a quick lights-out. We lowered the dinghy and took it out for a good run in Biscayne Bay to check out all the high-dollar waterfront homes. When back at the harbor, we tied up to the wall and set out on foot to explore the area. No Name Harbor is part of Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Park which advertises itself as "15 minutes from Miami, but a world apart." Too bad they didn't get their whole logo printed on their sign. There are many trails and we followed both tree-lined paved and waterfront sand paths. Iguanas were everywhere, soaking up the morning sun.

There were big ones and little ones. Visible from the southern end of the island is a cluster of houses built on stilts out in the water -- "Stiltsville." These houses were popular gathering places in the 1950s and 60s for boaters and fishermen. Today Stiltsville is owned by the National Park Service and is part of Biscayne National Park. Just around the corner we got our first look (in the daylight) at the Cape Florida Lighthouse. We were most appreciative of its beacon last night in the dark. Originally built in 1825, rebuilt in 1846, and most recently refurbished in 1996, it is the oldest standing structure in Miami-Dade County. A replica of the keeper's house, cistern, and necessary house are also on the grounds. The lighthouse is 95 feet tall and has 109 steps. We worked ourselves to the top where the breeze was refreshing and the view was magnificent. The beach is consistently highly-rated because of its crystal-clarity and the usual absence of waves due to a gentle slope and a large offshore sandbar.

This view looking north shows the Atlantic beach on the right, Biscayne Bay on the left, Key Biscayne in the near foreground, and the Miami skyline in the distance.

In 1992, Hurricane Andrew left the island nearly treeless. These palms were replanted after the devastation and line the walkway to the lighthouse. We were surprised to see three raccoons out in the picnic area -- until we noticed the man feeding them. The presence of iguanas everywhere was also surprising, especially when lying camouflaged on the tree limbs. This collection by a fence reminded us of two things -- a colony of prairie dogs, and the Addams family (They're creepy and they're kooky, mysterious and spooky, they're altogether ooky ...). We left the beach and walked out of the park and up the road into the town of Key Biscayne for a look. Odds are we'll resupply lettuce and milk one more time before leaving on Friday.

We were accompanied on our return walk to the harbor by several species of butterflies. I don't recall seeing any like these black and yellow striped ones before. The wind finally began to pick up in mid-afternoon, but all was good in the harbor. When we got back to the dinghy, Crossroads had a good view of Key Biscayne from the bow and a bit later, provided a prime spot for viewing the sunset from the stern of the upper deck.

Trying to Stay Ahead of the Weather

Day 280  |  Marathon to Key Biscayne  |  12 Hours  |  91 Miles    

We eased out of our slip, waved goodbye to Jeff and Terri (Change of Pace), pumped 125 gallons of diesel into our tanks, and then were on our way. With the view of Marathon Marina shrinking in the distance, we also got a final look at Seven Mile Bridge before turning left and heading north up The Keys. The Alligator Reef Lighhouse in Islamorada is a well-known snorkeling spot.

The historic Long Key Bridge glowed in the sunlight and every color of blue was on our doorstep. Megayachts sped by, seemingly oblivious to the amount of fuel they were consuming. We wouldn't want to fill those tanks every day. The area known as Hen and Chickens Reef is also a popular snorkeling site. It was a beautiful day to be on the water.

An occasional broadcast of a Coast Guard Weather Advisory was weighing on our minds, though. Their warnings of high winds and waves starting overnight had us exploring options. At 3:00 we had reached our intended destination of Rodriguez Key. Instead of pulling around and behind the island, however, we decided to continue north to Key Biscayne. It would mean a late arrival, but on a clear night with flat seas it seemed to be the best choice. For our perseverance we were treated to a beautiful sunset whose color lasted well beyond the sun's drop below the horizon.

We ended up in the middle of a four-boat convoy heading to No Name Harbor. The glowing skyline of Miami provided just enough light for a comfortable passage We all agreed that it was best to anchor just outside the harbor entrance for the evening and then seek a more permanent spot in the morning. We'll be here a few days. As it looks now, Friday will be the day to cross to The Bahamas.

Completion of Another Chapter

Day 279  |  Marathon    

Chris and Roger (Miss Utah) picked us up at 7:00 and we made the hour-long trip up to Islamorada for the Gigantic Nautical Flea Market. We arrived just as the gates opened. Vehicle and foot traffic were already heavy. Barry and Roger did most of the buying, although Chris and I did our fair share of looking at jewelry, clothing, and artwork. Some was interestingly tacky and others -- such as the underwater wildlife prints on metal -- were simply breathtaking. We completed our journey through the rows of vendors and were done in a couple of hours. Perfect timing for us as the traffic was backed up for a mile in both directions as we left. The roadside sign welcoming us back to Marathon signaled the impending arrival of the moment I had been dreading for the past few days.

I still couldn't muster the "G" word, but settled on "Farewell for Now," hoping to meet again, even if on land, after we both cross our wakes. Following the requisite photos, I returned to Crossroads and spent the afternoon reading in the sunshine up on Fiberglass Beach. I finished another book and have already pulled the next one out of my library. Barry walked the docks and ultimately ended up in the next slip over aboard Shangri-La. With the approach of sunset, I went to my favorite spot on the pilothouse roof and he snuck this photo of me on the top of our world.

So tomorrow we begin our trip north and east to the Bahamas. Today's news of the flooding of the Ohio and Tennessee Rivers had us thinking of all the places we've been and developed a fondness for. One is Florence (AL) where, coincidentally, we first spent a few days with Miss Utah. We stayed at the town marina on two different occasions, and left Crossroads there for a week while we visited home. It is difficult to grasp the volume of water flowing through these dams right now -- billions of gallons an hour -- and the flooding that is occurring. Nine months ago, I would have had no connection to Florence (below, today on left, and on our visit in October), Cairo (IL) or Paducah (KY). This is just one example of how the Great Loop journey expands your horizons and changes your perspective.

Still another way is the blessing of folks who cross your path for a reason along the way as we Live The Dream. We begin our next chapter tomorrow with a little sadness, but with great anticipation of things to come -- visiting new places with familiar names, and reconnecting with very special people along the way.

Sunset On A Full Day

Day 278  |  Marathon    

We were busy from the outset this morning trying to get everything in order before we returned the rental car at noon. We made stops at the Post Office and then headed over to the UPS Store to make some copies of our passports and vessel documentation and insurance for entry into the Bahamas. Fifteen cents a copy, nice Ricoh machine, not bad for self service. The best part was that we were both offered jobs without being told we were overqualified. We politely declined, but told the lady at the counter that we'd reconsider in four months. We then headed to Publix for a final roundup of the usual perishables plus a few other things that somehow found their way into the cart. When everything was stowed away in its proper place, I headed to the pool for several hours of ME time (reading, floating, napping, repeat) while Barry finalized the installation of the watermaker wiring and cover.

Our final package arrived today via FedEx -- our Bahamian sim cards. We hope all goes smoothly with the transition of our phones and that we'll enjoy consistent internet service when we get there. Jan and Lee on Shangri-La pulled in late this afternoon after a rough trip. We had first met them during our stay in Sturgeon Bay, WI, back in late August and they call Beaufort (NC) home. We all agreed to meet at the marina restaurant in time to watch the sun set from the patio. I got one final load of laundry going before we left. The best thing about our combo unit is you don't lose time waiting for the changeover from washer to dryer. The sunset was decent, the food and company both excellent. We returned to Crossroads by 8:30 and the clothes were done.

Tomorrow will be windy and rainy as a cold front blows through. We will spend our final day with Miss Utah and make one last road trip together to a nautical flea market in Key Largo. It has been such a treat to travel with Chris and Roger since early October. It will be difficult to say good ... I can't do it just yet.

And On Our 277th Day, We Made Water

Day 277  |  Marathon    

Eventually, all projects rise to the top of the list. Our task of the day was commissioning the watermaker. This will enable us to take in raw seawater and purify it through reverse osmosis into drinking water -- and, more importantly, shower water. Fresh water is scarce and therefore expensive in the Bahamas. It is in our best interest to make our own. Crossroads came with an inoperable watermaker that has sat unused for close to a decade. Barry has been researching its setup and operation and accumulating replacement parts for the past few months. Tech support was a phone call away and West Marine is right around the corner. It was time to rock and roll.

Little did I know that changing filters and membranes would require the removal of the entire unit from the engine room to be worked on in the galley. I took up the role of mechanic's helper and stayed within earshot while doing as many of my chores as possible. I did manage to get a load of laundry done onboard and take care of some last minute items to be mailed. It was a long process, but at 3:30 we were finally ready to turn everything on. After a few suspenseful moments, the first trickle of water began flowing from the galley faucet. We ran the system for an hour and a half and all was good. There was just enough time remaining in the day for each of us to get showers before meeting up with seven other Loopers for dinner at Burdines. In less serious news, the Christmas (?) cactus is blooming again. It seems to really like its spot in the pilothouse.

We have several errands to take care of in the morning before we return the rental car at noon. The decision has been made to stay an additional day here in Marathon, letting a front and rain pass through on Saturday. The wind should clock around and calm down as well. Hopefully our departure on Sunday will be uneventful.

Our Southernmost Point

Day 276  |  Marathon/Key West    

Another wonderful hot shower and a few moments on the balcony overlooking the pool started the morning. We grabbed a quick breakfast, checked out of our room, and waited beside the dolphin statue for the hotel shuttle bus to take us into downtown Key West for the day. Our plan was to walk down Whitehead Street and visit the busier tourist spots before the crowds got thick and the temperatures too warm. The first spot we passed was Mile Marker 0, marking the end of US Route 1 which runs 2,369 miles from Fort Kent (ME) through Richmond and ends here in Key West. Anything that has this many road signs and billboards devoted to it is required to have adjacent souvenir stands ... and there were two.

At the end of Whitehead Street is the Southernmost Point marker. It was quite breezy and the wind-aided chop was breaking at times over the wall, but there was a line of us to get our picture taken in this iconic spot. Also in this little area is a statue of Bishop Albert Kee, a renowned conch-blower, who greeted an estimated 11 million visitors with characteristic sound of air through shell. The gypsy roosters wandered all over the place and crowed at all hours of the day, just because they could. We walked over to South Beach and found a photo-op adirondack chair. On our way back into town we stopped by the Butterfly Conservancy. No time for museums today, but we did visit the beautiful gift shop and stuck our heads in the holes.

The lighthouse opened at 9:30 and we waited for a little while, commenting on how the sky was really starting to cloud over. The lighthouse was built in 1847, but in 1894 twenty more feet were added to the top to reach its present day height. The "stretch" section throws off the aesthetics, but gives it an interesting story. There were 88 steps to the top. The views from the ports and the top were of thickening clouds.

By the time we were down and midway between the light and keeper's house, the bottom fell out. Heavy rain fell for 20 minutes or so. When it was done, the sun came out and the raindrops on the berries of the Buccaneer Palm tree glistened in the sun. Almost looked like the freezing rain they were having back home. Our path back into town took us by the Truman Waterfront and the US Coast Guard Cutter Ingham, the only Coast Guard cutter afloat today to receive two Presidential Unit Citations for extraordinary heroism in action against an armed enemy. We admired the stately mansions along Duval Street, passed by President Truman's Little White House, and made our way to Mallory Square in search of some lunch. While checking out what was around us, we were presented with a live scenario of an age-old question: Why did the chicken cross the road?

We followed him to find out and ended up at Two Friends Patio Restaurant where there was live music and good food. We finished up over at the Historic Seaport Harbor Walk where we found the welcome sign and a cool directional sign (Chesapeake Bay's Mobjack Bay is near the top). Barry picked himself up some snorkel gear and then we loaded back into the shuttle bus and returned to pick up the car at the hotel. Away we went, back to the marina, stopping by the office to pick up our latest Amazon delivery.

Looks like the laundry and boat projects are on the horizon for tomorrow. We'll also start looking at the weather more seriously and hoping for a good weather window to leave Marathon and stage for the crossing to the Bahamas.

Snorkeling in the Dry Tortugas

Day 275  |  Marathon/Dry Tortugas National Park    

Our alarm went off at 4:45 am, but neither of us were really asleep. By 5:30 we were on our way to Key West to catch the Yankee Freedom ferry to the Dry Tortugas. The Super Snow Moon was shining brightly and we pursued it across the Seven Mile Bridge and beyond as it descended on the horizon ahead of us. There was little traffic, but also no scenery to enjoy, making for a quick commute. Check-in at 7:00, board at 7:30, depart at 8:00 ... everything was right on schedule. Exiting the harbor, we passed by the massive Carnival Victory which was docked at the cruise ship terminal for a quick stop-over. We settled on the stern, trying to avoid all the coughing and sneezing fellow passengers, for our 70-mile trip due west. The trip would take a bit over two hours.

The Dry Tortugas were discovered by Ponce de Leon in 1513 and so-named for the fact that there were no freshwater springs but an abundance of turtles. Seven islands comprise the Dry Tortugas and we headed to Garden Key, the site of Fort Jefferson. Construction of the fort was begun in 1846 and it was never finished. It was first used to guard US shipping channels and defend the Gulf of Mexico. Later it served as a prison. Its most famous inmate was Dr. Samuel Mudd, who treated John Wilkes Booth following the assassination of Abraham Lincoln. The iron Harbor Light, located on the third tier of the fort, is currently undergoing structural repairs and was surrounded by scaffolding.

Fort Jefferson is enormous and is comprised of an estimated 16 million bricks, making it the largest masonry structure in the Western Hemisphere. It was designed to accommodate 450 guns in arched casemates. The strength of the arch is utilized everywhere to support the weight of the structure. Looking out the arched openings, we could see our chariot for the day, some interesting orange flowers, and the landing site for the tour planes. The sea planes land on the water and then back up on the beach where a dozen folks file out on steps lowered from the tail.

The view from the top of the fort is spectacular. The fort wall is on the right, then a 70-foot wide moat, and finally the open ocean. The dark areas are patches of sea grass.

Barry and I did the self-guided tour of the fort before returning to the boat for lunch. We were eager to hit the water for some snorkeling. All of our stuff was deposited on the beach and into the water we went. The first thing I noticed was that the water was very salty. The next was how monochromatic the underwater sights were. I had my little underwater camera and tried to remember how to use it while taking pictures first of things that didn't move -- shells, sessile coral, whelk egg casings -- before working my way up to chasing fish. The closer we got to the fort wall, the more fish we saw. These little green guys loved to dart in and out of the sea grass.

Landlubbers see coral in gift shops where it is hard and brittle. I can't really describe how it feels to watch it sway gracefully in the tidal surges. My "money shots" of the day were of this cool fish that let me follow him for a while and ultimately watch as he ate a small crab from the sea floor. The final shot shows a few more fish, but also the shockingly large amount of dead and bleached coral on the bottom. This area is touted for its great reef, but it is obviously hurting. We were in the water for about three hours and were tired as we carried everything back up to the boat for a rinse and change of clothes.

We snagged better seats for the journey back to Key West and were able to enjoy a nice breeze and leg room. The return trip had us heading into the wind and the ride was a little bouncier that the morning. We were not affected by the motion and would have loved to have the water this calm the other day as we headed into Marathon Marina. Barry slept most of the way. Others, however, were not so fortunate. A teenager hugged the rail in obvious discomfort. An "emotional support animal" needed a bit of comforting from her person. The funniest (and somewhat saddest) moment occurred as we were nearing Key West and cell service returned. All at once, everyone on the boat picked up their buzzing phones and started checking on what we had "missed out on" during our few hours away. We talked about how fortunate we were to have experienced all we did on such a beautiful day. We returned to the rental car and headed straight to the hotel. Sightseeing of Key West will wait until tomorrow. I jumped right in to a long-anticipated "Hollywood" shower before we went down for dinner by the pool. We were asleep by 9:00.

A Trip to the Turtle Hospital

Day 274  |  Marathon    

A local diver came by this morning and changed the zincs on our bowthruster and keel cooler. I joined Terri (Change of Pace), Chris (Miss Utah), and about 25 other folks up at the pool for a water exercise class. I thoroughly enjoyed all the resistance exercises and wish I could stick around for more opportunities like this. At noon we took a taxi to the airport to pick up our rental car and on the way back to the marina, stopped at a little hole-in-the-wall sandwich shop for lunch. The taxi driver had highly recommended it, and we were very glad we took advantage of this local knowledge.

Roger, Chris, Phyllis, and Andy from Miss Utah joined us for a 2:00 tour of the Turtle Hospital. Barry shuttled everyone over in two trips. There are seven species of sea turtles in the world. This hospital works with the five found in the Florida Keys: Loggerhead, Green, Hawksbill, Leatherback, and Kemps Ridley. At least three turtle ambulances were spotted on the grounds, ready to rescue turtles in distress ... and then transport them back to the water when fully recovered.

All the turtles we saw have been rescued and are being rehabilitated with the goal of a return to the spot at which they were found. The primary reasons turtles end up in the hospital are entanglement with fishing line or nets, boat strikes, intestinal impactions (primarily from ingesting floating debris), and fibropapilloma turmors. The hospital sees up to 200 turtles per year and has released more than 2000 back to the wild. Our tour took us by multiple tanks where we could get up-close looks at dozens of residents.

At the end of the 90-minute tour we saw several very young turtles that could have fit in the palm of my hand. Hard to believe these little hatchlings can grow up to the size of a "small" 100-pound Kemps Ridley or an enormous 2000-pound Leatherback. As an added bonus, I spotted my first iguana hanging out on one of the canopies. We returned to the marina and had only a short wait for the sunset.

Tomorrow morning at 5:30 we head to Key West for a day-trip to the Dry Tortugas and then another day of exploring the town. I am not taking my laptop with me so the next two blog posts will be a bit delayed. I will post when we return to Crossroads on Thursday.

Floridays - Blue Skies and Ultraviolet Rays

Day 273  |  Marathon    

Today's title is from a Jimmy Buffett song and it just seemed appropriate because it was a beautiful day in the Florida Keys. The low early morning sunlight gave us a good look at Seven Mile Bridge across the Atlantic Ocean from our slip. Our first order of business this morning was to bring the dinghy down and do a little maintenance on it. While down, Barry scrubbed the upper deck where the dinghy sits and then continued on, scrubbing top down and bow to stern. We didn't get an opportunity to wash down Crossroads when we arrived yesterday. She was covered in a heavy, slimy salt scum that we avoided touching. While he was washing I worked on our freezer, refrigerator, and commissary inventories to come up with our final grocery list. That done, I headed to the pool. I had the place to myself in the beginning, but by the time I left around 1:30, all the chairs were taken and folks lined the edges of the shallow end with a beverage of choice in hand. Christmas came just before lunchtime as Barry went to the office and picked up some packages that were waiting for us.

Got Milk? Our major task of the afternoon was getting Barry some milk. The gas station/convenience store was only a mile away, but that involved walking along A1A. Thats a lot of traffic to deal with, so no extra sightseeing for us. We'll save that for when we get the rental car tomorrow. To all the folks back in Virginia and North Carolina, I'm sorry to report that it was sunny and 86, with a heat index of 92. I dare say it was a little warm. The heat did not stop me from a little reading on Fiberglass Beach as the afternoon closed. With the sun dropping fast in a cloudless sky, I climbed out on the pilothouse roof (my new favorite spot) for the best view I could get, still hoping to see an elusive Green Flash. Tonight, however, the moon was the main attraction even though it was only 96% full. On Tuesday the moon will reach perigee, its closest point of approach to earth, and will be totally illuminated at the same time. This combination creates an ultimate brightness scenario -- a Supermoon.

Tomorrow we will pick up the rental car, do a little exploring, and prepare for our trip to Key West and the Dry Tortugas.

Run to Marathon

Day 272  |  Shark Island to Marathon  |  5.7 Hours  |  44 Miles  

I was awake as dawn broke over Everglades National Park. In the 25 minutes between first light and sunrise, I sought out angles other than the standard straight-on view. My favorites were the reflection in the pilothouse door and from atop the pilothouse roof.

We slipped our lines from Miss Utah and headed south along Everglades National Park. We had no cell or internet service and anxiously awaited the phones to chime upon our return to civilization. The Gulf of Mexico was calm again today. We traveled in water that averaged 15 feet deep and alternated between shades of blue and green. The shallow water also meant crab pots ... and there were thousands of them. Barry and I spent most of our time on lookout which somewhat explains today's dearth of photos. Miss Utah commented afterward that we did such an excellent job that their trip was almost-stress free. They just followed in our wake. When we rounded Point Sable and headed east, the wind and waves increased (on our nose) making for a wet ride with spray consistently reaching Fiberglass Beach. With Seven Mile Bridge in sight, our cell service returned. On the far side of the bridge, dolphins arrived to escort us into Marathon. When we turned to port on final approach to Marathon Marina, the waves on our nose became waves on our beam creating a rolly ride for the final 15 minutes.

We managed to squeeze into our slip with millimeters to spare and no fiberglass damage. It took a while to get settled and checked-in. We caught up briefly with Jeff and Terri (Change of Pace) who have spent the past few months here on their Selene 43. We all watched the sunset from Miss Utah before heading out for dinner.

Tomorrow we will give Crossroads a bath and get all the salt off of her. Barry has some more projects he wants to complete. I'm sure Chris and I will make our way to the pool. We have a busy week planned and I have to start getting organized.

We Are In The Boonies

Day 271  |  Everglades City to Shark Island  |  5.6 Hours  |  41 Miles  

Our morning high tide came late (or way too early). We spent our last hours at Everglades Isle Marina just waiting. I walked the property and enjoyed all the flowers, including the yellow hibiscus hedges and the deep red bougainvillea climbing up the palm tree. I eventually settled by the pool and read a bit before our 11:00 am departure. In a moment of foreshadowing of things to come, I was texting Glenda (who is in the far southeastern Bahamas) and laughing about how we were spoiled with our consistent internet connection.

We wanted to see as much water as possible in the low spots we encountered coming in. It might sound insignificant, but 1.9 feet is a whole lot better than .9 feet. Departure occurred as scheduled and we headed back out towards the Gulf of Mexico, tracing our inbound track past the 55 channel markers with Miss Utah following right behind us. Pelicans seemed to occupy every piling. The 3-5 knot breeze generated only ripples on the water. Our wake accounted for the only true movement.

Most channel markers were occupied -- whether with a permanent resident or assorted transient waterfowl. Once we reached Indian Key Pass and open water, we moved up to the flybridge and set a course to Little Shark River. Then, all of a sudden, the dreaded "No Service" message came across our phones. We had not anticipated it happening this early in the day and were caught a little off guard. Crossroads was indeed in the Boonies as we traveled south along Everglades National Park. The resident gators have a difficult time texting with their short forelimbs, so no need for cell towers.

The water was flat, glassy at times. We did, however, have plenty of crabpots to dip and dodge, keeping us alert while without internet. A new variation on the float was spotted where the sphere was cut in half and reassembled. Interesting and distinctive, but it seems like a lot of work.

As we neared Little Shark River the two crews discussed places to drop the hook. It was agreed that we would stay out in the Gulf of Mexico since there were minimal wind and waves. Also, if we stayed out of the rivers, maybe the dreaded swarms of mosquitos wouldn't find us. Miss Utah pulled in front of us and, being the larger boat, set her anchor. As we have done on several occasions, we then pulled along their starboard side and rafted up for the evening. We had a quiet little spot and were only buzzed by a few pelicans.

As the sun dropped low, we climbed over the rails and joined them for appys and a perfect view of the evening light show from their port side. (Still no green flash.) The boys grilled and we shared a nice dinner before starting to wind down and calling it a night by 8:30.

 We're excited to be off to Marathon in the morning and to get our internet and phone service back.

Wild Times in Everglades City

Day 270  |  Everglades City  

The sun did return and it was a perfect day for our Everglades airboat tour. We walked the lovely palm tree-lined, brick paver road to the clubhouse and caught a ride to Captain Mitch's home base. There we met Chris and Roger (Miss Utah) and their guests, Phyllis and Andy. We loaded into our airboat and off we went. Not more than thirty yards from the dock we saw our first gator, sunning in the grasses.

The tour took us through both marsh grass and mangrove ecosystems. On open stretches we accelerated to the anticipated high speed and turned sharp and hard, catching a little spray. We also snuck through areas quietly and enjoyed the view of the wildlife.

Along with the alligators were many species of birds. Egrets waded along the edge of the mangroves. Several roseate spoonbills hung out in the grassland. The stars of the show, however, were the alligators and they were plentiful.

Some of the floating "logs" had eyes. A new bird for me was this colorful moorhen. This big gator directed us back to the dock and smiled for the camera as we went by. This tour was an amazing overview of the Everglades. If you're in the area, don't miss out on a wonderful opportunity to see the "real" Everglades. Captain Mitch operates on private land so we avoided the chaos that surrounds us on the Barron River where multiple tour company congregate -- sometimes five boats at a time -- in search of an elusive dolphin. We returned to Crossroads and found this heart-shaped leaf floating in the river, just off our stern. Perfect for Valentine's Day.

Chris and I met up at the pool for a few hours in the early afternoon. As with everything here at Everglades Isle, it is a beautiful and relaxing spot. The deep red flowers on this cactus were highlights of the landscaping. The resort hosted a Valentine's Day potluck and karaoke night in the clubhouse. There was a great turnout and we discovered that motorcoach folks aren't that different from boaters. There were games, a photo booth, sparkly girl-power jewelry, and karaoke. We hung with the motorcoachers until boaters' midnight (9:00), then all slipped out of a party that was turning both weirder and wilder.

We will depart here tomorrow morning around 10:00 to take advantage of a rising tide. Miss Utah and Crossroads both draw five feet and we're hoping to have a bit more water under us than when we came in. We will anchor in the Little Shark River and set the stage for an easy day into Marathon on Saturday.

The Sun Will Come Out Tomorrow

Day 269  |  Everglades City  

Our string of beautiful days had to end, and so it did today. Rain began falling heavily (and loudly) around 5:30 am, putting an end to any hopes of restful sleep. The good news, however, was that Crossroads got a nice bath. She also was in need of a good inside cleaning. Somehow we had managed to bring a large sample of Cayo Costa sand onboard following our frequent visits to the beach. Since we are connected to shore power, it was time to bring out the vacuum and give everything a good going over.

By mid-morning, the precipitation had lessened to a light but persistent drizzle -- light enough for me to head up to the fitness center. I settled back on the recumbent cycle and peddled away for over 22 miles while watching through the window as the palms swayed in the breeze and torrents of water overflowed the gutter. It was still drizzling and chilly for the walk back. As I was ready to hop into the shower, Barry yelled down that Miss Utah was nearing the marina ... a little figurative sunshine on the horizon.

Chris and I escaped to the clubhouse and visited while seated in the lounge under the spiral staircase of the lighthouse tower. We compared notes and plans, and finalized reservations for tomorrow's airboat ride and an afternoon to be spent poolside. Meanwhile, back onboard, Barry was installing a new switch and finally checking off his automatic generator shut off project as being completed.

For dinner we walked to a restaurant favored by locals. It is always a good sign to see a packed parking lot. My blackened scallops were amazing.

In addition to the plans stated above, we need to finalize a few more important details before we head to the Keys. Our week in Marathon will be the last opportunity to receive mail and packages before staging for the jump to The Bahamas. It will also pass very quickly. Since returning to Florida on New Year's Eve, we have been in no hurry and on no schedule. Things are starting to get real again.

Since I post at night, I'll close with a Happy Valentine's Day wish. Thank you for following along with us on our journey. I appreciate your interest and all the comments.