It's Been Fun, But We've Got To Go

Charleston  

We've been in Charleston for more than a while and tried to make the most of our days. We were finally able to get out and stretch our legs with a good walk around town. We took the road most traveled and hit some of the high spots, starting with Rainbow Row. This series of 13 colorful historic houses on East Bay Street is one of the most photographed areas in town. Valentine's Day decorations had been hung on a tree, reminding us that January is about over. The horse-drawn carriage tours were running with the passengers bundled up against the chill and breeze.

Many homeowners had covered up their window boxes to protect the plantings from nightly frost. We made it over to the pineapple fountain for the mandatory "When in Charleston" tourist shot. The fountain froze over a few days prior and the water had since been turned off. Then, when least expected, a glimpse of spring caught my eye. We returned to Crossroads in time to catch a colorful sunset over the treetops along the Ashley River. Turned out that we walked over six miles, by far more than the sum of all walks done since moving onboard. 

Thursday was laundry day. We had scouted out the facilities and jumped on the opportunity to wash our sheets and towels, along with the usual daily-wear items. We loaded up our two bags and made our way, like Santa Claus, to the laundry room. A new twist to this adventure was that the machines are operated by an app on my phone. So download app, load account with money, and scan the QR code. Voila, three machines running at once. Sure beat the other option of feeding in 48 quarters. In under two hours everything was done, folded, and back onboard. It was a beautiful day looking out the window. The wind continued to howl and the temperature crept to the 40s. Barry and Don (My Cat) once again took the courtesy van to West Marine because they could. I managed to get my workouts done onboard, although I had to work around Barry when his engine-room duties occupied my mat.

Friday dawned and there was talk of snow on Saturday. We did what all southerners do and braved the weather to get to the grocery store. Harris Teeter happened to be beside West Marine, so we both went in for "one final thing" before picking up our standard grocery provisions. While in the van, I got a text that our Amazon order had been delivered to the hub at the marina. Scan the barcode and the door magically opens. Not a bad system. 

The snow did come as predicted on Saturday morning. For about five minutes, it came down pretty hard and when viewed against the blue hull across the dock from us, looked much worse than it was. It was still snow though, and reinforced the fact that we are nowhere close to being far enough south. I got my exercises done while Barry worked to get our Coast Guard safety inspection. We passed and got our stickers for the year.

The afternoon was all about live streaming my aunt and uncle's funeral service. We had originally thought we'd be in Florida, and the drive would be too much for me to go up and back. Then we got stuck in Charleston and I second-guessed my decision not to return. As it turned out,Winston-Salem also got hit with ice and snow Saturday morning. My family had convinced me to not travel and to watch the service on my laptop. My sister and mom had ordered the basketball arrangement. I settled in and joined the family on the front row. Rev. Ginny gave a moving tribute that included pointing up to the seat in the balcony that Uncle Olon and Sydney had occupied most every Sunday for over three decades. Many of Uncle Olon's former players were in attendance, and three spoke. Jeff Denny provided the eulogy.

Jeff was my favorite North Forsyth Viking and went on to play for North Carolina. His stories of "Coach" were a great tribute. [Sorry for all the detail, but this section is for me when I look back on this trip.] Following the service, I spoke with both my mom and then Aunt B to get the rest of the story. We ended the day with dinner aboard My Cat.

The wind was still whipping this morning (Sunday), blowing us up against the dock. I brought out all the spray bottles and gave the place a good cleaning, then prepared lunches, grilled chicken, and baked another batch of carrot cake muffins. We WILL peel ourselves off the dock and leave tomorrow morning. We must get this show back on the road and its always good to have meals at the ready when underway.

We took one final stroll around town, this time on roads less traveled. The bluebird sky and bright sun made up for the blustery wind. We enjoyed checking out the architecture, live oaks, doorways, and gardens.

Other classic Charleston sights were the gas street lamps, many churches, and Spanish moss in the trees.

Palms grew in odd places and colorful pansies peeked out of window boxes. We took one last walk down the MegaDock to marvel at the huge vessels tied up with us. The flags were still stiff when we got onboard.  

Two football games later, the wind is beginning to lay down. It is always nice to spend time in Charleston, but we've got to go. We will peel ourselves off the dock at dawn with a destination of Saint Augustine, FL. 

Getting Closer

Holden Beach to Charleston |  22 Hours  |  145 Miles 

Saturday night was the coldest we have seen so far. We woke Sunday morning to find crazy numbers on our saloon weather station. The heat had been running all night to heat the air at ceiling level to a comfy 80 degrees. The temperature at our living level struggled to reach 65. The humidity had dropped to near zero. My cactus may have felt right at home, but I felt like my contacts were going to flip out of my eyes. A look outside confirmed we were still in the middle of winter. The dock was frozen over and icicles had reformed on our bimini and flybridge chairs. It wasn't until afternoon that our checks from the pilot house door revealed enough melting for us to venture out. First we cleared some ice off the decks, then we made a final run up to Lowe's Foods to get our elusive chicken and yogurt. 

Monday morning was clear and sunny. We took care of the paperwork at Zimmerman's then pulled out into the ICW, more than ready to make our way south. First, however, we needed to retrace our path north to the Cape Fear River. Along the way, My Cat fell back in behind us. We passed the newest lighthouse in NC, the non-descript Oak Island Lighthouse to starboard. The classic Old Baldy, NC's oldest lighthouse, stood guard to port. We exited the inlet and turned south. The morning's sun shone brightly before us.

It was a great day on the water and the sun warmed the pilothouse. Layers were quickly peeled and we both eventually changed into shorts and T-shirts to welcome our idea of perfect temperature. The afternoon passed quickly as we clicked off the miles. Around 5:00 as the sun was sinking low, I was at the helm when the spotted dolphins arrived. Two swam over and jumped into our bow wave. I called Barry to come take a look. More dolphin came to join the performance.

For the next half hour we were spectators to a dolphin dance recital. They bobbed and weaved, crossed over, leapt in the air, and dove deep. The most I ever caught in the frame at once was seven. There had to be a dozen of them. It seemed they were as excited to see us as we were to see them. 

The dolphins peeled off to go wherever dolphins go at night. The sun and clouds then took the stage to display their colors.

As the sun set we began our watch rotations. The night passage was easy with no traffic. Around 3:00 we began seeing the Charleston Harbor parking lot -- a dozen freighters anchored offshore waiting for the opportunity to come into port and unload. By 6:00 we were in the Charleston Channel, staying between the lighted buoys. We nailed our carefully timed arrival into the Ashley River and Safe Harbor Charleston City Marina (Megadock). At 8:00 we hit slack current and the marina office opened and called to get our dock assignment. Tied up by 8:30, I turned my attention to cleaning this filthy boat as Barry accompanied Don and Lynda from My Cat on the courtesy van to West Marine. The afternoon was gray and overcast. Our Gold Looper burgee was the only splash of color against the monochromatic sky. 

We are anxious to jump back offshore and move further south. Our next stop will be Saint Augustine, FL. These offshore hops are a great way to knock out a lot of miles at once. They are, however, dependent on a favorable weather window. We will once more have to hang tight and wait for that window to open. "Move and Wait" is frustrating and getting very old. We are, however, getting closer.

Iced In ... Thawing Out

Holden Beach 

When I last logged in on Wednesday night, we (and my cactus) had moved aboard My Cat in Southport while Crossroads was in the yard for a through-hull replacement. Following a good night's sleep, we were up at our regular time knowing that the day would turn warm and sunny. We were ready to knock out more items on our To-Do list. While Barry went over some anchoring pointers with the My Cat crew, I unexpectedly spent most of the morning on the phone. More on that later. 

We had lunch aboard My Cat then drove the half hour back to Holden Beach to check on Crossroads. We pulled in, but there was no Crossroads. She wasn't were we left her. She's not that easy to hide. We were both puzzled ... "what's wrong now?" raced through our minds. After a survey of the yard, and to our surprise, we found her back in the water and plugged in. The Zimmerman crew had completed all projects and put her back in the water prior to both the low tide and impending ice storm. What great service! We would be able to move back onboard that night and turn on the heat to keep her plumbing warm. The sun came out, literally and figuratively, and I enjoyed a few moments on Fiberglass Beach. Oh, how I've missed that time. So far on this trip, I've been in five layers of clothes every time I've gone to the foredeck. Back to Southport we went. Barry installed safety wire on four anchor shackles as the sun set. Another project done.

We enjoyed dinner onboard, then loaded up the truck with our bags and cactus. Not knowing how long Crossroads would be out of the water, we had purposely worked down all of our perishable food items. The Walmart sign beckoned us in to pick up a few things. We were too late. The store had been picked clean by all of the storm-preppers. We left with a few items, but no milk, yogurt, or chicken. We'll try one more time before we leave and hope they restocked. Rain began to fall as we unloaded the truck.

Rain continued all day Friday and we kept waiting for it to start freezing. I kept myself busy in the galley, preparing a few meals to keep on hand. We changed out the starting battery on the generator that Barry had picked up in Wilmington a few days ago. It went in easier than anticipated, which is always a good thing. Low tide arrived in late afternoon to provide us a good view of the pilings supporting the travel lift tracks. Sometime before 10:00 the freezing rain began and little icicles were growing from our upper deck as we turned off the lights. 

Today's morning light revealed that were were encased in a layer of ice, much like a 43-foot long sausage. As the sun rose, melting began, and the icicles grew longer. We cleaned as much ice off as we could. The temperature will drop to 20 degrees tonight and everything will refreeze. We will wait for the melting process to start anew tomorrow then see if the grocery stores have been restocked. 

On Thursday morning, I got word that my Uncle Olon had passed away ... only 12 days after his wife Sydney had passed. They were inseparable in life and now too in death. There were phone calls with family and a lot of internet searching to read the many online tributes. He was a successful high school basketball coach and teacher in Winston-Salem, NC. His death made the front page of the Journal. My love of basketball came from watching Uncle Olon on the sidelines. The final buzzer has sounded. Good game, Coach.

Out of the Water ... Plans on Ice

Holden Beach 

Another in a string of great sunrises started the day, although I had to lean over the stern rail and peer around the large Kadey Krogen beside us in order to get a good glimpse. The tide was in, the current was slack, and the sun was out. A dredge passed behind us, cutting through a light layer of fog, on its way to the Cape Fear River. It was a perfect morning to be on the water. As soon as we received word we backed out of the slip and turned south. Fifty feet later we turned into the haul-out well. Today's progress was more symbolic than measurable. 

The lifting straps were positioned underneath us, careful to avoid our new stabilizer fins. The operator tensioned them to the point of lifting. As we had done so many times in the past, we attempted to step off the boat and exit onto the tracks. We were told to stay onboard and did so without question. Crossroads was lifted and began to move toward land. Then someone asked, "how are we going to get them off?" Oops. The ooperator inched Crossroads to the edge of the pit and all agreed the only escape was over the bowsprit. I volunteered to go first and, thanks to my daily yoga, smoothly made it onto the ladder. Barry thought about the process a little too long (he IS an engineer), but eventually descended safely. After that we were back on track and soon blocked in the yard.

The techs quickly gathered around our stern to inspect one of the service points to be addressed. The bottom paint we had applied in October was failing in multiple areas. Thankfully tomorrow will be warm and all the paint can be touched up under warranty. Confident that all projects were in good hands with a good plan, we bid her adieu for a few days. My Cat, the boat that has been traveling with us since Deltaville, has taken us in for a few days until Crossroads goes back in the water. We are once again disappointed with the delay, but are trying to make the most of it. Barry quickly had his hands under their helm to fix an electrical issue. Barry and I then made a grocery run before he and Don went into Wilmington on a mission to West Marine.

We sure miss being on Crossroads, but are very thankful for the assistance from friends. There's a good chance the work on Crossroads will be completed tomorrow afternoon. Once more, however, weather may throw a wrench in things. An ice storm will move through the area beginning Thursday night and last through Saturday. The experts are saying we could get half an inch of ice. Right now it looks like our first opportunity to depart will be Monday. So, I'm going to put the blog on ice for a few days until we know something definite. 

Below is a parting shot -- a reminder of why we push through all these obstacles to continue south. Moments like these when the world is still, quickly chase away memories of the chaos.

Making A Pit Stop

Wrightsville Beach to Holden Beach |  5.3 Hours  |  35 Miles 

There was no problem this morning in rising before the sun. The full moon was putting on a spectacular show as it set across our anchorage with a bright moonsplash. At first light, I was layered up and on the bow to raise the anchor. Expecting the worst after an active few days on the hook, I was relieved when all 125-feet of chain came up clean. I did have to power wash a heavy layer of mud off the anchor, but the foredeck remained clean. That's a win! As we exited Wrightsville Beach, the sun was just peaking over the tree line. We made our way back to the ICW and met up with My Cat, who had chosen to ride out the recent blow in a marina. We headed south and watched in anxious anticipation as the moon grew larger (and the sky brighter) with every minute of descent.   

The bright sun warmed up the pilothouse. We had breakfast underway before getting to Snow's Cut. A dredging barge loomed large on the horizon and was positioned at the turn off. As we approached, we saw the nice sign erected to point the way and that there was plenty of room to pass alongside the work zone. We also got a good look at the impressive business end of the dredge. The Snow's Cut passage was uneventful. The only noteworthy event for us was passing under the NC-421 bridge. In our minds, we took this road a few hundred miles west while thinking of family in Clemmons. 

The Cape Fear River was incredibly calm in today's light winds. (It would have been a far different story had we attempted this trip over the past two gusty days.) The crossing was quick and easy. My Cat followed behind us as a north-bound car carrier passed. We turned south into the ICW at Southport and headed straight into Southport Marina. We pulled in for a pumpout and left My Cat behind to tie up for a couple of nights. It was quite possibly the best pumpout we have ever done -- ease onto the floating dock, tie bow and stern, take care of business with a powerful pump, untie, and we were off with blazing NASCAR efficiency. We continued south for another 10 miles to the Zimmerman yard, a sister-company to the one in Deltaville that takes care of Crossroads. We had made prior arrangements for them to fix several pesky issues. By the time I had the power cord moved to the bow, technicians were onboard sizing up our list of projects.

Barry and Taylor (the diesel tech) went over two projects in the engine room and came up with a plan. Since we arrived at low tide, it will be early tomorrow before we can be hauled out for the through-hull valve replacement. Our friends David and Sue (Day Dreamin') had graciously left their truck to use during our stay. We left Crossroads, scaled the ramp from the dock to parking lot, and drove back to My Cat to deliver some packages that had been sent to the yard. We visited for a while, got a call from Taylor to say his engine work was successfully completed, and departed just as the sun was setting on a pretty good day.

Almost Coming Full Circle

 Wrightsville Beach  

Not much changed overnight. At first light, the sails on the neighboring boat were still flogging and the North Carolina flag was still flying stiff in the wind. I made veggie omelettes and turkey bacon for breakfast, knowing I'd have all morning to clean up the dirty dishes. When we're underway we rotate between versions of oatmeal, pancakes, and Cheerios. This change-up was a nice treat. The morning passed quickly with dish washing, stretching, and a shower. A noon-time check of wind indicators provided a bit more affirmation of our decision to hang tight one more day.

The task at hand for the afternoon was inventory management. After close to three weeks onboard, our pantry is starting to run low. I pulled out the inventory sheets and located the hiding spots for several staples. Our onboard provisions are stored under the settee and in the commissary. I was glad today's treasure hunt was limited to the settee. It is very cold in the commissary as its not a heated space. Back up to the pilothouse, most of the cloud cover had moved out, but the wind was still howling. We watched as someone came via dinghy to corral the sails.

With the wind out of west, the pilothouse was bright and warm from the setting sun and the perfect spot to do a little reading and wait on the sunset. As the sky turned orange, the scene with the sailboat had changed a bit with the decks now clear. The flag even had a bit of a bow in it.

The clear sky didn't yield much of a sunset and I was a little disappointed. As I went downstairs to the salon I caught sight of the bright full moon rising in the east -- definitely an unexpected treat. At this writing, the wind is laying down and still clocking around. We have almost completed a circle on our anchor track. This nasty cold front is almost behind us and we are more than ready to raise our trusty anchor and get moving tomorrow morning.  

Keeping Everything in Perspective

Wrightsville Beach  

Today was all the weather forecasters predicted it would be, with heavy rain and gusty winds. Barry was up a few times overnight checking our anchor track and, of more concern, the boats around us. We have ultimate faith in our Rocna anchor, but not so much in those of unoccupied boats. Through rain-covered windows, we watched the day go by. Our favorite reference points were the North Carolina flag on a nearby dock and that unoccupied sailboat sharing the anchorage. From first light we knew the sails would not be sufficiently secured for the anticipated blow. The wind and rain built and were most intense in the early afternoon. We saw a few drops make their way inside, but our leak-guard paper towel never became wet. Whew. We were able to pick up 49 over-the-air TV stations, but not one of them carried the early football game -- or any other sporting event. I got a good workout in, followed by a nap, while Barry was happy binge-watching NCIS reruns.

The wind continued to tug on the sails of Ultra Time and the headsail began to flog. By sunset, the weather was not too bad. The wind was down to a steady 15kts and the temperature had actually risen to a balmy 62 degrees. 

We watched the sunset from the bow and marveled at the little bits of blue sky that were peeking through the cloud cover. All in all, it wasn't a bad day ... especially when we checked in at our house and saw the snow covering the back yard. A rainy day on the boat is definitely better than a snowy day at home.

The rain has moved out, but the wind will continue to mount through the night with gusts up to 40 knots. Tomorrow looks like more of the same with 15-25 mph sustained and gusts to 35 mph. We are definitely anxious to get moving again, but will most likely be here another day before the weather breaks. We'll then head across the Cape Fear River toward Holden Beach.

Taking Advantage of a Weather Window

Beaufort to Wrightsville Beach |  9 Hours  |  70 Miles 

After 17 days onboard, we have fine-turned our morning routine. The alarm sounds 30 minutes prior to our planned departure time. That gives me 20 minutes to put on four layers of clothing (top and bottom) and then 10 minutes to get the anchor up. It was a pleasant sight to look out the window and see still water in Taylor Creek. For two days we have sailed at anchor, swaying at the mercy of both current and wind. Despite all the movement, the anchor and chain came up clean and for that I was very thankful.

We rounded the corner into Beaufort Inlet and were greeted by the morning's colors. Once in the Atlantic, it was time for breakfast.

Put that thought on hold. US Warship 24 was inbound in the same channel. We gave the USS Arlington, an amphibious transport dock ship, a good look as we turned in front of her to make a direct shot to Wrightsville Beach. Back to breakfast. NOAA got the forecast right today as the wind was light and the waves calm and following ... a great weather window to jump outside and save a day of travel on the ICW. The sun warmed up the pilothouse and the morning passed by quickly. Just before lunch and as we approached Camp Lejune, another dark shadow appeared on the horizon. As we got closer the amphibious assault ship USS Kearsarge (LHD-3) contacted us to maintain a three-mile safety zone. It was deploying LCAC hover craft from its stern. No problem. It was interesting to watch. At the same time, Blackhawk helicopters were circling and a flock of Ospreys flew inland. The Osprey are near and dear to Barry's heart as he was an avionics systems integrator who worked on the design for Boeing Vertol.

Cloud cover thickened throughout the day as we crossed Onslow Bay. We entered Masonboro Inlet on a slacking tide and followed previous tracks on our chartplotter past the water tower and to the anchorage. There was plenty of room for us and My Cat to pull in alongside two small sailboats. Darkness fell and the Blockade Runner lit up the oceanfront shoreline.

The same weather event that is wreaking havoc in the eastern part of the US will keep us here tomorrow. Heavy rain and gusty winds will make for a slow day. We hope to be back underway on Monday. Only 810 miles remain between us and Key Biscayne.

Visiting One Of Our Favorite Spots

Beaufort 

I missed dawn's display of color, but that was OK. A few more minutes of sleep were a good tradeoff. Today was a planned down day to allow a front to move through. As predicted, the wind began howling through the Taylor Creek anchorage around 3:00 in the morning and created restless sleep thereafter. Our anchor monitor reassured us that our hook had a strong hold. My Cat, our travel partner, attempted to re-anchor, but had an unplanned rendezvous with terra firma. The local TowBoat US captain was able to return them to the water, unscathed -- except for their ego. Although the town dinghy dock was a mere 100-yards away, we would wait until mid-afternoon and the wind to lay down to make the crossing to the shore. Beaufort is one of our favorite stops and we were determined to leave the mothership for a visit to town.

We walked along Front Street and were pleasantly surprised to see so many of the stores and restaurants we remembered were still open. We thought about stopping at the ice cream shop, but will take a raincheck until warmer weather. The stretch of stately white homes glistened against a bright blue sky. Story-book porches, fences, and balconies exuded southern charm. Flowers bloomed in the well-landscaped yards, adding color and cheer. I love the town clocks and Beaufort's is in great shape. Bonus points were earned for displaying the correct time.

A last quick selfie in front of the Beaufort sign, and we were back in the dinghy and heading to My Cat. We all discussed our plans for tomorrow. The wind will continue to lay down and we should have a good run on the outside to Wrightsville Beach. The sun was dropping quickly and we hurried back to Crossroads.

She looked pretty good in the golden light as we approached. The dinghy was quickly hoisted to its upper deck home and all exterior tasks were completed before darkness settled upon us. Tomorrow we will rise early and head out the inlet into the sunrise. Time to make some more miles before the next front rolls through. (The final photo was taken by Linda on My Cat as we left Coinjock earlier in the week.)

Slipping Through The Neuse

Belhaven to Beaufort |  8 Hours  |  60 Miles 

For this first stage of our journey, it's all about making miles. Early to bed and early to rise. The one benefit of this schedule is we get to enjoy the multi-color displays of the dawn sky. Today was 10 degrees warmer than when we left Coinjock yesterday -- a balmy 35 degrees. Bundled up with four layers top and bottom, I had the anchor up right on schedule at 7:00. From past experiences in this anchorage, I knew our anchor chain would be coated with a thick layer of black mud. That held true. Twenty minutes later, the anchor platform and forward deck were all clean.

The sun rose as we entered the Pungo River. Duck hunting is a very popular activity in this area. These fellows were up early and already had all of their (decoy) ducks in a row. 

The water was once again mirror-smooth. Water conditions could not have been better. If it had been 40 degrees warmer, it would have been a perfect day. We welcomed passing traffic, just to watch the ripples in the water. Two converging wakes created interesting moguls. A single wake formed ripples colored in multiple hues of blue as they rolled to the shore.

I had told myself I wouldn't take pictures of any more bridge reflections, but I couldn't resist as we moved through Hobucken. Fishing boats at the R.E. Mayo dock glistened in the sunshine. We exited the canal into the Neuse River and struggled to make out the horizon.  

Barry and I were dumbfounded. There was no sign of wind ripples or current. This river has been our nemesis for many years and we always expect wind, waves and chop. Our trip through here last time sent waves crashing over our flybridge. We definitely enjoyed today's trip past Oriental and into Adams Creek. 

We were already making great time, but gladly hopped into a one-knot current that gave us a nice boost. Crossroads does not see 8.9 knots on her own. This speed requires a little help from Mother Nature. Familiar sights announced our approach into the Beaufort/Morehead City area. We always look for the house with the helipad. Soon the channel split and we went left towards Beaufort. Once under the bridge we encountered several derelict boats that we had to weave through. We turned tight along the docks into Taylor Creek and immediately saw a massive sailboat in front of us. Kaizen is 159-feet long, with a 33-foot wide beam. She made quite a statement as we passed by her on our way to the anchorage. We found a good spot right across from the town dinghy dock, quickly set the hook, then lowered Backroads (our dinghy) from the upper deck. 

Darkness settled in quickly with a heavy cloud cover. The Beaufort dockside district glowed and we were able to enjoy one final reflection for the day. Notice the "skyscraper" to the left of the photo -- it is the well-illuminated mast and spreaders of Kaizen.  

We will stay here tomorrow before heading to Wrightsville Beach. It will be breezy, but sunny, and we hope to enjoy a walk around town.