Beyond The Fog Lies Clarity

Hampton to Deltaville  |  5.8 Hours  |  41 Miles  

We anticipated some early morning fog for our trip to Deltaville and Mother Nature did not disappoint. Warm, humid air settling over the cool water gave us thick advection fog. It was difficult to determine where I was this morning as all of my reference points were veiled. Paradigm Shift was barely visible even though they were only 200-feet or so away. We delayed our departure time, hoping for it to lift. Even the gulls were grounded. Two found a comfortable resting place upon our secondary anchor. By 8:30, we could finally see beyond our bow and decided to raise anchor. Glenda shared this thought of the day: "If you want to see what the fog hides in itself, don't wait for the fog to disperse! Instead of waiting for something to happen in this short life, do something immediately! Enter the fog!" We followed Paradigm Shift and entered the fog together. 

Our radar was on and I was standing on the side deck keeping a look out for anything that could ruin our day -- crab pots, channel markers, other boats. The fog actually thickened and we struggled to maintain sight of Paradigm Shift. The pelicans, however, were active. Along the way, a small bird hitched a ride for a while on our bow rail. It was a pretty rotten morning. Contributing to the staying power of the fog was the fact that there was nary a breeze to move it along.

Slowly the sky began to clear. The sun burned off the fog from high to low. Suddenly, it all became clear. By 12:30, we were enjoying a beautiful day on the Chesapeake Bay. We were also reminded of every Bay boater's nemesis, the biting flies. Both Barry and I grabbed a swatter and attempted to squash the flying vampires before they could take a bite out of our legs. I spent some time on Fiberglass Beach (swatter in hand) to freshen up my tan which was starting to fade after a week of rain and clouds. I knew we were getting close to the Rappahannock River when I saw the green marker for the Piankatank River and a few sailboats crossing west to east across our path. 

Paradigm Shift had pulled away from us and made the turn into the Rappahannock. As we made the turn, I began stringing up all the lines required for docking in our home slip. With the Norris Bridge on the horizon we turned off at Broad Creek channel. Paradigm Shift had another hour and a half to get to their home slip in Urbanna. 

We turned into the Stingray Point channel and passed a long line of familiar boats. A blue heron was checking out the seafood selection on the lunch menu. Our fenders were in position and we eased onto the pumpout dock. It has been far too many days since our last pumpout in Southport. Our red light has been flashing, warning us that it was time to take care of business. While I filled up our water tanks, Barry took off for the parking lot to check on his Escape. We knew the battery would be dead and wanted to get a charger on it as soon as possible. While the charging was occurring, he came back and we completed our pumpout then eased back into our summer home -- Slip 58. We had planned a welcome home dinner at the local Mexican restaurant with Paradigm Shift. Turns out, it is closed on Sunday. We agreed on a raincheck for our Mexican celebration. Barry and I headed to Gloucester for the best Thai food around. Tomorrow we will head home for a few days and see what's going on there. We have a busy week of hair cuts (YAY!), doctors' appointments, Zoom meetings, and the many additional things we have not yet anticipated. Crossroads, of course, needs a good cleaning and waxing. One thing for sure is that our To-Do list is lengthy and everything will become clear with time. We'll hit the ground running, check off the boxes, and prepare to do this all again next January.

So after 136 days we are back where we started. Thanks to all who followed along on our journey. I have attempted to capture each day -- the good and not so good -- in pictures and then write a little bit to connect the images. Until next time ...

-30-

A Little Bit Of Everything

Camden Point to Hampton  |  10.7 Hours  |  66 Miles  

The sun was nowhere to be seen as I went out to raise the anchor. Rain had fallen throughout the wee hours of the morning and there was still a heavy mist/light rain requiring me to put on the full compliment of foul weather gear. We moved out of the Broad Creek anchorage and back into the Intracoastal Waterway. Our destination by the end of the day was a return to Virginia. The muted light made for great swamp photography conditions. The first miles clicked on by and soon we were passing through Coinjock. Tied up to the dock was American Star. We surmised that they had stopped here waiting for water levels to return to normal in Currituck Sound.

We saw a few lower than expected readings, but had no unplanned contact with terra firma. Blue sky teased us, but only served to make the scenery at bit more eerie. Fog settled over us. The bright channel markers were a welcome splash of color for our eyes. A cormorant dried its wings atop a red, while a pair of osprey tended a small nest on a green. As we moved further up the ICW, the osprey houses were much grander in scale. 

We timed our arrival at the North Landing Bridge pretty well and passed through with minimal delay. A bald eagle watched our little parade of boats move along. Paradigm Shift was behind us. The challenge then became to get through the next bridge to set us up for an on-the-hour opening of our final bridge in Great Bridge. A series of factors conspired against us, including numerous no-wake zones, a group of paddle boarders, and a large barge moving scrap iron that delayed us at the Centerville Bridge.

Realizing we couldn't make the upcoming Great Bridge opening in 30 minutes, we slowed our speed to a crawl and tried to occupy the next hour and a half by looking at scenery. Sunning turtles and wading blue herons were willing, if unknowing, subjects. We arrived at Great Bridge 20 minutes early and were prepared to hold station and wait for the next opening. Then over the radio came the big announcement: Railroad Bridge #7 was stuck in the down position for the foreseeable future. We made the quick decision to claim a spot on the free dock and wait out the delay. Of course I was not prepared to dock and all the lines were stowed away. I pulled out the minimum essential lines to produce a good-enough-for-now effort. We then went back and properly tied up for an extended stay. Just as we began to exhale and enjoy a completed day, the new announcement came that the bridge was once again open to through traffic. A new plan went into effect calling for us to depart at the 3:00 bridge opening. With 40 minutes to wait, I gladly took the opportunity to go for a walk through the park. Paradigm Shift was more productive than us and used the delay to pick up fuel and water.  

Barry watched the boat traffic. Soon the wait was over and we all passed through the Great Bridge Bridge and into the lock chamber. We were on our way and the sun was out both literally and figuratively. No more bridges between here and home.

The Elizabeth River was scenic as always. Work continues on the USS Dwight D. Eisenhower. The orange Welcome to Norfolk mural shone brightly at Waterside. Nauticus and Town Point park couldn't look much better from the water.

The USS Wisconsin commanded respect even though she hasn't moved in years. As we neared the carrier piers of Norfolk NOB, dark clouds had moved in to the east of the USS Gerald R. Ford. To the west, a large storm cell was approaching. We added a little extra throttle and headed toward The Chamberlin in Hampton. We would try our hardest to reach our destination, the Old Point Comfort anchorage, before the storm arrived. Mission accomplished. We dropped anchor and stayed dry as the storm passed to our south. 

It was a long day that had a little bit of everything sprinkled with several unplanned delays. We had a quick dinner and then watched the latest edition of Mother Nature's Light Show. A rainbow once again formed as the sun was setting. Greg took and shared the first photo of us from across the anchorage. An orange sky finished the evening. The boat pictured could be us, but is actually sister ship Duet. Twilight faded away with soft reflections of the Hampton Roads Bridge Tunnel across the anchorage. 

Mother Nature Steals The Show

Belhaven to Camden Point  |  9.3 Hours  |  67 Miles  

Restless sleep preceded our 6:00 am alarm. We were anxious to get underway and a little concerned about the water conditions we would face on the next leg of our trip north. Once more, the color of the morning was gray. Belhaven's multi-colored waterfront building provided the only color in another dreary morning. The positive points could not be seen: light winds and warmer temperatures. As expected the anchor came up with an abundance of mud caked on the chain. By the time I had everything on Crossroads washed off, Paradigm Shift had emerged from their anchorage and settled in behind us. It was sure nice to see them again. Soon, many more boats had joined our little parade. 

The first hour was a bit nerve-wracking as boats jockeyed for position. There seemed to be a constant chatter on the radio of folks either requesting a slow pass or fussing about getting waked. No matter how big and fast you think you are, there is always someone bigger or faster. -- or in the case of the large sport fisher passing Paradigm Shift, bigger and faster. Once everyone found their spot in line, the miles clicked off quickly. We went through heavy rain and had some thunder and lightning along the way. By the time we reached the Alligator River Swing Bridge, the sky had cleared and the sun was shining. The bridge tender kindly kept the span open for us, allowing for passage without slowing down.

No matter how many times we make this trip, much time is devoted to predicting the condition of Albemarle Sound. Today, there was no issue whatsoever. We all had a picture-perfect crossing of the Sound and lined up to enter the North River. The crab pots kept us alert as their dark half-floats were often difficult to see until we were upon them. We turned off into the Broad Creek anchorage for the evening. Glenda got the shot of us underway. The sun was casting long shadows as I set the anchor. A quick change of clothes followed and I relocated to the flybridge to read and enjoy the warmth of th e sun.

After dinner, the light show began. Greg sent the photo of us and the rainbow as I was watching a full arc (with a hint of a second) develop in front of us. The colors stayed bright for a long while, even as the sun was setting behind us. 

Moving to the stern, we watched as the golden hour hues built to a crescendo. After a week-long delay waiting on the Nor'Easter to pass, I guess its only fitting that Mother Nature was also the star of today's show. Not pictured is the evening's encore. A nearly full moon has risen brightly in the dark, cloud-free sky.

A Final Lap Around Town

Belhaven  

A few boats exited this morning out of Belhaven's safe harbor. We were not one of them, wary of reported low water north of us. Yampa, who left yesterday, reported back that there was indeed low water in Alligator River and they had to hold up short of their destination. Hearing their report made us feel a little better about spending day six in this comfortable anchorage. The morning was like most others -- breakfast, chores, stretch, shower. A few rain showers rolled through the area, dumping heavily for a brief period then stopping as quickly as it started. After lunch we donned our foul weather gear and headed to shore for one last trash drop and walk around town. The good news is that it was warmer today. Maybe tomorrow we can trade our jeans for shorts. High tide approached the top of the docks as we walked down Water Street. At River Forest Manor a large tent was being set up for a weekend wedding. We made the turn back to town via Main Street. By now this is a familiar route, but we noticed a few new pieces of eye candy. A large grouping of bright red amaryllises were in full bloom by the front stoop. 

A bright red crab hung from a tree. The most pleasant surprise was seeing the red and yellow marbled rose buds. Soon we were back to the town dock. The street and low waterfront areas were still flooded. Barry walked the docks and chatted with the menfolk while I sat at the picnic shelter and observed the developing show. Dockhands were out moving boats (including our dinghy) to squeeze out more room. They then made multiple trips up and down the dock, walking off the distance. With little scientific accuracy, they radioed that there was 48 feet available between a power cat and the bulkhead. In came a sport fisher and a few tense moments ensued as they worked their way into the opening with inches to spare. True, their waterline fit in the spot, but their length overall was much longer because of their large protruding bowsprit. After the show was over, we headed back to Crossroads as showers again rolled through the area. Before dinner we put the dinghy back on the upper deck. We are ready to depart in the morning and make the final dash home. In this case, we hope that the creek does rise ... just a bit. 

Surveying The Scene Up North

Belhaven  

Just like a scene from Groundhog Day, we awoke to face a string of familiar scenarios. The overcast sky muted any color cast by the rising sun. The wind had calmed a bit, but was still strong enough to amplify the unseasonable chill in the air. Following the normal routine, I checked off breakfast and stretching. Faced with more hours to occupy, I tackled the cleaning and dusting of more louvered doors. It is important work, but definitely falls in at about 436 on my list of favorite things to do while onboard. We didn't even leave the boat, preferring to stay in our warm little house on the water. Weather conditions are improving, however, another issue has now developed further up the Intracoastal Waterway. The persistent northeast winds have blown the water out of Currituck Sound and the North Landing River. Our normally narrow passage with just enough water to float us has turned into an impassable puddle. In Great Bridge, higher than normal water level is preventing the lock from opening at high tide. The whole world has gone haywire. The word on the internet is that Friday will see conditions start to turn toward normal. So we'll hang out one more day in Belhaven, dinghy to shore, and take another walk through town to enjoy the flowers and landscaping. Meanwhile, back at home, my crepe myrtles, ferns, and lilies have all leafed out. The azaleas and my pride and joy rhododendrons have finished blooming and the roses are just now starting to show pink. My haircut is scheduled for Monday at 2:00. We need to get moving.  

Binging On Eye Candy

Belhaven  

For the first time since we departed Deltaville in January we went out for breakfast. We took the dinghy in, met the crew of Yampa, and headed back to Gingerbread. We had seen their menu yesterday and were eager to order items we just don't get onboard (which at this point is anything other than oatmeal and protein pancakes). Country ham was calling my name. Barry ordered a western omelette. Great conversation flowed as we discovered how small the world is becoming. Turns out Scott (who we found out yesterday lives five miles from our house) and Barry worked on the same Top-Secret project at Texas Instruments in Dallas back in the late 1980s. After breakfast Barry went back to Yampa to work on an electronics issue. I set out on a walk down Main Street to explore more of the charming town of Belhaven. The town seal is mounted on the Municipal Building. It is divided into sections by a ship's wheel, with each part representing an important element in Belhaven's history. Colorful blooms lined the streets. Beside the library, I found another 6x6-foot fiberglass entry in the Crabs on the Move community art project. Truth is, most homeowners seem to participate in a broader art project. Every building features a different flavor of eye candy.      

Images of crabs were stenciled in blue along the sidewalks. Stately houses lined both sides of the street. Gardens often featured flowering plants along with whimsical sculptures. A well-worn handle on the front door caught my eye at Trinity United Methodist Church. Purple irises and bright yellow day lilies surrounded Saint James Episcopal Church. 

Covered wrap-around porches with large swings and a nice basketball goal on a flat cement pad are favorite features on my list. Turning on Latham Street, a decorative quilt square adorned the side of one house. A bright red birdhouse was the feature item of the colorful roadside flower bed. The high winds we've been experiencing could have explained the presence of a pastel blue bird's egg in the middle of the road. A large garden was planted with young beans, onions, peppers and tomatoes. 

The Mad Batter is located where Pungo Street intersects Pamlico Street. I arrived just before its 10:00 opening and waited along with a young woman and her four-year-old son for the doors to open. The young boy was so excited to go in and get a cupcake. Fresh cheesecakes and pies were being loaded into the display case as we entered. I picked up two cinnamon rolls to go and took them back to the dinghy. While there I also peeled off my foul weather jacket before setting off on another lap. Still with a fleece jacket on, I went out Water Street and soaked up a little sun that was trying to peak through the heavy cloud cover. My head was on a swivel, looking at both sides of the streets to pick out all the small architectural details that give a house character. Whether on shutters or on stair kicks, the little touches make a big statement.

Large statement pieces were also abundant, such as an anchor by the driveway, geraniums in an old cast iron pot, and a stately old tree with a bench beneath. I reached the end of the road by River Forest Manor then turned back on Main Street for the final leg, taking closer looks at a boat planter full of pansies, a hedge of fragrant honeysuckle, and the vivid berries of a holly.

Clever window displays and good music led me to stop in and browse at a small locally-owned gift shop. The old City Hall built in 1910, now houses the Belhaven Memorial Museum. It was closed for renovation so I didn't get an opportunity to learn about this town being the birthplace of the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway or to see the collection of over 30,000 buttons of long-time resident Mrs. Mary Eva Blount Way. Maybe next year. Flooding is an issue for this waterfront town. The Nor'easter blowing off the coast is creating higher than normal tides, sending the Pantego River over its banks and into the street. I returned to the dinghy dock just as Barry was finishing up his project and as the wind was picking up. We returned to Crossroads and listened as the wind howled all afternoon. I pulled all of our remaining food stores out of the commissary and repacked the storage areas in the galley and salon. Overall, most everything I stashed onboard back in December has been on point. We have a few extra of some things (cans of green beans) and have run out of several things that we've since replaced at State-side grocery stores. Supposedly today, our third day waiting on weather, was to have the worst conditions. I hope so because I'm running out of new areas to explore and boat projects to complete. 

Pleasant Surprises

Belhaven  

The morning's first look out the master port verified that today was going to be a much better day. The rain and fog were gone and the sun was shining. Pinchy, the Jeanneau 379 anchored in front of us, was clearly visible. It was, however, still quite chilly. We started the generator and turned on the heat. I pulled more cold weather clothes out of storage. Breakfast, stretching, and showers occupied the morning. At noon, we layered up and took the dinghy to shore. A gusty wind was still working over the dockside flag, which was already showing signs of tatter. Belhaven's downtown was welcoming, with several retail outlets and restaurants. We stopped at Gingerbread Bakery and Snack Shop for lunch. The place was full of locals so we had a pretty good idea that we were in a good spot.   

I got the grilled cheese and vegetable beef soup combo special. It was perfect for the cold afternoon. The staff was very friendly, the food was great, and we found out they also serve breakfast. We will visit this pleasant surprise again in the morning. After lunch we continued on our walk through town and came upon a couple selling strawberries. With one look at and smell of the large red gems, I knew they were no store-grade berries. Another pleasant surprise. We picked up an overflowing quart container and brought it back to the dinghy for safe storage.

We then continued our walk through the neighborhood streets. Colorful flowers bloomed in wild spaces and manicured gardens. Huge pine trees and River Forest Manor stand as monuments of resilience in this hurricane zone. Hurricane Florence left the city under water in 2018. 

Private residences were mixed on the same street with Bed and Breakfast inns. Every house had a focal point, whether it be a pastel tree swing or an old-fashioned hitchin' post. Now that I'm back in North Carolina, even last names deemed odd in most areas are more common. We stopped for a quick photo with Mr. Crab. This is as crabby as we got on this day. 

It was warm in the sun and cold in the shade. I put on and pulled off layers all afternoon. By the time we made it to the Belhaven welcome sign, I was down to short sleeves. Barry went into the Chamber of Commerce and came back with a nice welcome pack full of information. He also came back with the news that the couple who certified him as a sailing instructor was on a sailboat at the town dock. Smaller world still was that the boat is owned by a gentleman who lives five miles from us at home. We went over and chatted with all three for a good while. Yes, another pleasant surprise. 

The wind was picking up and the wind chill was again becoming a factor. I layered back up and we headed back to Crossroads doing our best "George Washington Crossing the Delaware" imitation. Following dinner, we watched as the final pleasant surprise developed to the west. The sun and clouds combined to give us a beautiful close to the day. 

Who Turned Off The Heat?

Belhaven  

I awoke around my usual time of 6:00 am, and knew immediately that something was drastically different. Who turned off the heat? It was downright cold in the master. True, the thermometer on the wall read 60 degrees. Compared to my preferred warm sun of The Bahamas, however, I could have very well be in Antarctica. I made my way up to the pilothouse to survey the scene. There was no chance of a scenic sunrise today. A light drizzle was falling, the wind was blowing, and a patchy fog settled over the anchorage. I grabbed a blanket and checked my phone for the latest news and daily check-ins. The sky lightened a bit, but overall improvement was minimal. I decided I had to do the unthinkable -- into the bowels of Crossroads I went to pull out some winter clothes. By the time my church service came on at 10:00 I was bundled in wool socks, ColdGear tights, sweatpants, a long sleeved T shirt, and hoodie. I closely resembled the multi-layered version of myself during our January stopover here in Belhaven. The afternoon was spent cleaning up some computer files and working on a project I've had on my list since I retired four years ago. Barry did his best to catch up on all the episodes of NCIS. As evening neared, the fog had moved out and the rain stopped. As an excuse to get off the boat, I volunteered to bail out the dinghy. Last night's heavy rain filled it with about three inches of water. We are holding out hope that in the next day or so we can get back to shore and stretch our legs. We have survived Day One of this Nor'easter delay. We'll see what Day Two has in store for us tomorrow.    

Making Lemonade

Bonner Bay to Belhaven  |  4 Hours  |  27 Miles  

Following yesterday's sporty passage and knowing a strong Nor'easter was barreling down on us, a calm morning was an unexpected surprise. Two sets of gentle ripples converged off our stern to create and interesting pattern in the water as the sun rose over the trees. Glenda captured Crossroads basking in morning's orange glow. The second surprise of the day took place an hour later when Barry informed me The Plan for today had changed. The New Plan was to leave at 10:00 and take advantage of this calm weather to ride out the blow further north. My slow and easy morning pace suddenly transitioned to get 'er done mode. Breakfast, workout, and shower were all completed with minutes to spare. On deck at 9:45, I quickly discovered my third surprise. All 125 feet of anchor chain was coming up coated in a thick, black mud. The chain looked like it was encased in a rubber hose. Inch by inch, and foot by foot, I washed the mud off the chain. Then I washed down the deck before finally re-washing myself.

It was a gorgeous morning and the Pamlico River could not have been much smoother. Bright sun, dark blue sky, white billowing clouds, and a light breeze made for an enjoyable ride. We led the way giving me another opportunity to get a few shots of Paradigm Shift. The final one came as they turned off to their anchorage in Pungo Creek.

We continued a short distance further north to the Belhaven anchorage we have visited many times before. We welcomed the opportunity to get off the boat and walk around as much as weather permits. We quickly lowered the dinghy and set off on our errands. First stop was to fill up the dinghy's gas tank. We then moved over and tied to the town dinghy dock. From there we set out on the Food Lion 5k -- a 3.1 mile round trip. The trip back was a bit more challenging as both of our backpacks were full of the usual items needed to carry us through the anticipated five-day weather delay. Seeing Crossroads at the end of the road was just as sweet as the sight of any finish line. 

We chatted with a few Loopers on the dock as the sky continued to darken. Rain was visible in the distance as we returned to Crossroads. The clouds continued to deliver a dramatic performance in every direction.

Back onboard, I got to work trying to fit our purchases into the refrigerator. It took a while and a little repackaging, but everything found a home. Thunder rolled and by 6:00 it was raining. There are two sailboats here with us to ride out the blow. It is strange to look out and not see Paradigm Shift as we have traveled with them for the last three weeks. It will also be strange in the morning to not hear Cooper's sweet "good morning" bark. We'll meet up once again when the weather clears and we continue on our journeys home together. Mother Nature has given us quite a few lemons this trip. Once again, we'll try to make some tasty lemonade in response.

Positioning Ourselves For The Next Blow

Mile Hammock Bay to Bonner Bay  |  10.7 Hours  |  75 Miles  

Our anchor was up at 6:45, but it took another 15 minutes for me to wash the mud off the foredeck. Oh, how I miss The Bahamas where the anchor and chain almost always came up clean from the sandy bottom. Back in the ICW we gazed east and saw the ocean precariously close to us. A low and narrow sand bar provided just enough barrier to maintain separation in fair weather. Two sailboats and Paradigm Shift queued up in front of us for the 7:30 opening of the Onslow Beach Swing Bridge, which is owned and operated by the Marine Corps.  

Just on the other sided of the bridge we check the sign warning of possible live fire activities. No flashing lights meant our passage was safe. Targets positioned along the bank were peppered with holes. A lone waterman tended his crab pots.

It was an uneventful morning and few vessels passed us in either direction. A southbound tug and barge combination was definitely the most interesting. We arrived in Morehead City at noon, right on schedule. Today was not an ideal day to be on the water, but there were still plenty of boats of all sizes crossing in every directions. This morning before departure we had decided to bypass our original destination of Beaufort in order to make more miles. A large and strong Nor'easter is barreling down on us and we were seeking a more sheltered inland anchorage. We continued up Adams Creek where TowBoat US was assisting a disabled sailboat.

We entered the Neuse River, and things got a bit sporty. Both the wind and waves picked up, but the Selenes made good time in the following sea. I passed the time by snapping a few photos of Paradigm Shift during the rare period of time we were in front of them. When we turned onto the Bay River we were met by 30 knot winds and a mounting beam sea that sent water splashing onto the pilothouse. Thankfully, those conditions were short-lived. The protected anchorage minimized the wind and the waves and we are settled in for the evening. Glenda sent over the photo of Crossroads at anchor. We are all checking the weather reports and planning when and to where our next move will be. Poor coastal travel conditions will have us held up for quite a few days to come. 

A Tale Of Two Ospreys

Southport to Mile Hammock Bay  |  8.5 Hours  |  57 Miles  

Thunderstorms rolled over Southport, keeping Barry and I awake for a good stretch of the night. From 2:00 to 4:00 sleep was spotty. When the alarm sounded at 7:00, we were both looking for the snooze button. We, however, needed to get moving and get some chores done before departing. At the top of our list was getting a pumpout. With the weather forecast looking unfavorable for an offshore passage, it was of prime importance to get underway with an empty holding tank. With business and paperwork done we were off the dock and quickly into the Cape Fear River, heading north to Snows Cut. The scenery was quite different from yesterday. Houses took on many different styles, although massive retaining walls were still common. As we approached Wrightsville Beach at high tide, we saw a flag and artificial palm tree positioned on a sandbar. We could only imagine the local yacht club congregating on this spot during low tide. The Wrightsville Beach Bridge opened on the hour and we timed our arrival perfectly to minimize waiting. Today, Paradigm Shift and Crossroads were joined by David and Sue on Day Dreaming. Day Dreaming spends her winters in North Carolina and her summers down the dock from us at Stingray Point Marina.

Paradigm Shift followed two other vessels through the raised spans. Crossroads and Day Dreaming followed. Five miles later was the Figure Eight Swing Bridge. We once again did the math to determine the best speed to run to avoid a long wait. Timing was pretty good and we all gladly cleared our final bridge of the day.

Gray was the color of the day and I missed the bright blue sky from yesterday. Sky blended with water and even the white sand dunes failed to elicit excitement. Birds became the day's most interesting sight. Osprey occupied the tops of many daymarkers. Canada geese noisily made their presence known from the mudflats.

The sky darkened even more, and the wind picked up as we prepared to cross Alligator Bay. A wind-driven chop quickly formed. Rain appeared nearby on the radar, but we stayed dry. The "grand house at the end of road" stood precariously close to water level. A high rise bridge and water tower marked our entrance into Surf City. Paradigm Shift texted back that our intended anchorage in Mile Hammock Bay already had quite a few boats inside. All three of us were thankful to claim our own spots for the evening. This area is actually on the property of Camp Lejune. Boaters are forbidden to go to shore because it is an active Marine Corps base. As we set our anchor, two MV-22 Osprey circled around and landed just over the tree line. They have continued to circle for several hours while conducting training exercises. As I've mentioned before, Barry designed the avionics for the Osprey while working for Boeing many (many) years ago. Thanks to Glenda for capturing this photo of Barry's past and present lives merging into one moment in time.

Sightseeing On The Way To North Carolina

Georgetown to Southport  |  12 Hours  |  84 Miles  

The alarm sounded way too early at 5:15. It was still very dark as we made final preparations to leave Southport, knowing we had a long day ahead of us. Paradigm Shift departed first and made the turn around the finger pier and into the channel. A vivid reflection accompanied them down the Sampit River. 

We pulled out behind them, hopped back into the ICW, sat back and enjoyed the scenery. We were coming off of low tide and all the tree roos were exposed. Vivid new foliage stood out while the occasional heron was camouflaged in the shadows. As always, an occasional derelict boat seemed to sprout from the shoreline. We rounded a turn and found another Selene had joined our parade. Duet, a 43-footer just like us, had pulled out of a marina and was between Paradigm Shift and Crossroads. Duet is hull number one and we are hull number nine. As we passed them, it was almost like looking in a mirror.

We were traveling faster, and burning more fuel, because we had more miles to make before the end of our day. Duet pulled off into a marina and we settled back to looking at all the sights along the way. As we neared Myrtle Beach, we did not lack for excitement. A small dredge was clearing a personal dock. A jet from the presidential fleet (if president was onboard, it would be Air Force One) was doing touch and gos at the airport. Planned developments and golf courses lined both sides of the waterway. While admiring the bunkers on this hole, a hoverboard passed us. 

It was Wednesday, but there was a lot of activity on the water. Center consoles, pontoon boats, and jet skis zipped in, out, and around our path like no-see-ums. It was sometimes challenging to keep watch on the water when the houses on land were grabbing our attention. The hardscapes were incredible. Each terraced lawn and infinity pool seemed more massive and elaborate than the previous. My favorite was the retaining wall with the large orange Clemson Tigers paw logo featured front and center. Nothing like school spirit.

The blue sky and fluffy white clouds provided a perfect background for this scenic stretch.

Soon I began to look for the exceptions to the mega-terraced norm. One home used the bank for a solar field. Another covered the entire slope with stone. Occasionally there would be a small stand of old-growth trees. I know that these are short lived and will soon be cleared for another mega-mansion. In my mind, folks come to these homes to relax and unwind. Maybe that's why the large pool-side clock face seemed so out of place to me. 

North of Myrtle Beach, we approached and passed the Barefoot Queen which was out on a lunch cruise. The Little River Swing Bridge opened upon request and we both passed through. Shortly thereafter we crossed into North Carolina. The tide was noticeably falling and crab pots sat exposed in the mud flats. Twelve hours after we started our day, we pulled into Southport Marina and tied up. The office staff had already left for the day, but we all settled in without drama. The evening hours passed quickly, but I did finally get off the boat for a short walk with Glenda, Jaxon, and Cooper. We ended the day as we began ... in the dark.