Date Night Dinner Out

Rock Sound   

Blue sky and sunshine both returned this morning, and so did the wind. So much for March going out like a lamb. The waves in the anchorage remained low, but the gusts had Crossroads swaying from side to side. Our anchor bridle squealed and squeaked under tension and I made several trips to the bow to make sure everything looked in ship shape. The extra layer of chafe protection provided by the firehose segments (thank you, Chris) really did their job.     

We planned to have a date night dinner onshore so we hung out on Crossroads for most of the day. Shortly after 5:00 we headed to the dinghy dock. A quick photo captured the rare moment when we both were clean, dry, and not too wind-blown. We joined a few other cruisers on the deck at Wild Orchids for beverages and appys prior to dinner. A small band provided music during our meals of grilled seafood with sweet potatoes, onions, and plantains. 

After our shared dessert of guava duff, we walked to the beach, but stopped along the way to appreciate the flowers. We waited for a magical sunset, but it was not to be. Clouds once again muted the anticipated colorful light show. Our final stop of the evening was down at the community Fish Fry. Even at 8:00 we were early to the party. Music was playing and grills were hot and smoking as the meats cooked. Aluminum trays of fixin's were ready to serve and the bar was mixing drinks and passing out bottles of Kalik and Sands. It was dark as we made our way back to Crossroads as we approached boater's midnight (9:00). I settled in to "watch" the gamecast play-by-play of the women's basketball semifinals. Next year, somehow, someway, I will find a way to watch live action. 

Name That Tune

Rock Sound   

Squally weather was predicted for the afternoon so we got an early start on our walk around Rock Sound. We buttoned up Crossroads in case it rained while we were gone and were at the dinghy dock by 8:45. The local fishing boat So What was also tied to the dock. Just by reading the name, I got Pink's song stuck in my head -- so what, I'm still a rock star. It was slightly less than a two mile straight shot from the dinghy dock, across the island, to the Atlantic-side beach. A small potcake puppy greeted us as we passed by. He was sweet and curious although mother dog was more wary of our presence. Colorful signs along the road displayed country pride. The Bahamas celebrate their 50th year of independence on July 10. Dark purple morning glories lined the road. (I attempted to take no photos of bougainvillea as I loaded my camera up with many such pictures yesterday.) Songbirds filled the air with their own special tunes. I failed to name that tune. To me, it sounded like a mockingbird.

A pink trumpet tree was full of delicate lacy flowers. The road came to an end and we picked up a sandy path that lead to the beach. The heavy cloud cover gave the ocean a gray-green appearance. I have to admit that I was disappointed we did not have the same kind of picture-perfect day that we enjoyed last year.

A group of small birds was hanging out in the surf. I was able to approach and then follow them through the lapping waves. As they strung out into a single file, they reminded me of the title theme from The Partridge Family. I was soon humming Come On Get Happy -- traveling along, here's a song that we're singing, come on get happy. 

I walked as far north as there was beach. At the turn-around point the sand had taken on the pink color which is famouslye characteristic of several beaches on Eluethera. Large coconut palms towered over the small dunes. Barry joined me to walk the southern length of the beach as the cloud cover increased.

The southern-most point was marked by the heavily eroded sand dune. The strong prevailing easterly winds drive big waves ashore which continually eat away at the beach. We checked the radar prior to hitting the path back to the road, and all looked good. The rain was still to our north. Blossoms of the damiana were wild in the brush while those of the plumeria were in landscaped gardens. 

Birds and butterflies flitted about. Purple blooms of the butterfly pea peaked out at ground level. As we approached town, a steady rain began to fall. We picked up the pace, but were damp when we entered Hall's grocery store with the double intention of looking for bread and staying out of the rain. They did not have bread, but we did pick up a bag of apples. While in the check out lane, the bottom of the clouds opened. We sat outside under the eaves and watched the puddles grow. Raindrops Keep Falling On My Head became the new tune of the moment. 

The shower soon passed and we got on our way to the Ocean Hole. More potcakes came out to follow us down the road and past a large Mexican sunflower tree. The Ocean Hole was crowded with a tour group from a cruise ship. We waited our turn and I then took my traditional spot with my feet dangling in the water. The level seemed to be about a foot lower than normal, making it difficult to get my toes as wet as the rest of me. The fish were very active in front of me, hoping for food to be tossed in their direction. While watching the fish, a sweet dog snuck up from behind and was watching us. We said farewell to both fish and dogs and headed to Sammy's for lunch. I had baked chicken and Barry had barbecued ribs, both came with peas and rice. We were more than full when we left.

I almost made it through the day without a bougainvillea photo, but could not resist when seeing how the blooms and leaves looked against the white fence. The trip back to Crossroads was dry, but dark clouds still hung over the anchorage. The clouds got darker and rolled on through, but we never saw more than a light shower. The wind did pick up as predicted and blew in the mid-20s throughout the afternoon, making it too chilly to sit outside. I did a load of laundry onboard to pass the time. The best sight of the evening was the supply ship leaving the government dock. Maybe there will be bread in the stores tomorrow --Tomorrow, you're always a day away.

A Bright and Colorful Day In Rock Sound

Rock Sound   

All of yesterday's rain and cloud cover was gone this morning. We spent a few hours onboard cleaning, restocking the pantry, making a grocery list, and gathering trash before lowering the dinghy. By 11:00 we were zipping across the anchorage to one of the nicest dinghy docks we've encountered. It was long and sturdy with many ladders on both sides. We dropped off our bag of trash and turned south down the main road. Today's scenery was loaded with color. The giant red blooms of a hibiscus helped to settle the belly-aching I did yesterday about missing the colors of spring. Tidy gates opened to private waterside patios with a view of the harbor and all of its blues. A short distance down, construction was booming in the new Ocean Hole development. This government-sponsored project provides quality, affordable housing for the people of Eleuthera, built by the people of Eleuthera. It is refreshing to see these projects for the Bahamians. So much of the construction we see are mega-mansions built by wealthy non-natives. 

Our destination was one of our favorite spots. We have visited several times and noted a new sign that was both larger and brighter. A little lizard greeted us from his sunny spot on the stone wall. Once again, the Boiling Hole was flat and calm. The pool of water is fed by an underground source and in rough weather, bubbles rise to the surface to create a boiling effect. Since we always visit on days with beautiful weather, we see it as more of a reflecting pool. 

The path and wooden steps to Cathedral Cave are well-maintained. We entered and again were struck by the majesty of the surroundings. Large underground tunnels were illuminated by the high mid-day sun streaming through holes in the "ceiling." In the darker corners, plenty of bats hung around. Large roots grow down through the overhead holes in search of land and water. 

Several other groups of visitors came and went as we walked around. One disturbing aspect we saw was the amount of graffiti now present on the deepest walls of the cave. We did not notice this last year, so it must be another new trend in the boorish behavior of tourists while guests in this beautiful country. We walked back toward the dinghy dock while chatting with two fellow cruisers. They turned and went to their boat and we continued down the road. Bougainvillea of multiple colors seemed to be in every yard and sprawling over every fence. Red, pink, purple, white, and salmon blossoms were all present. The two churches we passed were advertising their Holy Week activities. Our next destination was Frigates for lunch where I had a salad topped with a large grilled grouper filet. Barry had a colossal burger. We shared a table with two other boaters and enjoyed sharing tales of home, travels, and maintenance issues. 

A short walk later we were at The Market, the largest grocery store we have visited since the Winn-Dixie in Key Biscayne, FL. The produce section was nicely stocked and we loaded up on all our usual items. There was an entire section set aside for locally-grown produce. We were more than happy to purchase the home-grown tomatoes. We were able to get everything on our list except for bread without a huge case of sticker-shock. It just so happened that we passed the ice cream store on our way back to the dinghy dock. We stopped in for an uncommon treat -- the small waffle cone loaded with hand-dipped goodness for $4. While there we chatted with a couple from Massachusetts on the sailboat we passed yesterday on our way into the harbor. It was after 4:00 when we began walking to the dinghy dock. The deep pink blossoms of the oleander and more bougainvillea lined our path. After yesterday's grayness, today's bright colors and sunshine combined to create a much better mood. 

You Can't Have A Rainbow Without A Little Rain

Norman's Cay to Rock Sound |  7 Hours  |  45.8 Miles  

My mind was active last night and I did not sleep well. I reviewed the many wonderful days with great friends that we'd enjoyed in The Exumas then switched to pondering the crossing to Eleuthera and the beginning of a new phase of our voyage. Added to the mix were concerns for friends and family, missing the upcoming Easter holiday, and all the spring blooms at home that will fade before our return. I was far from bright-eyed-and-bushy-tailed as we hoisted the dinghy to the upper deck then raised the anchor, all before 8:00. With almost perfect timing as we pulled out of the anchorage, our friend Neal (Harvest Moon) crossed in front of us on his way north. It is always good to see friends. We exited the Exumas through the very calm Wax Cay Cut and set a waypoint for the southern tip of Eluethera. By 10:00 the clouds had thickened and our radar had picked up rain showers. The darkening continued, but we never passed through more than a sprinkle. As the water shallowed close to our destination, we passed two men out conching. The pink shells of their harvest were piled in their small boat. In the distance the familiar stone beacon marked our arrival into Davis Channel. The heavy cloud cover had effectively muted all the water's characteristic brilliant blues.

As we pulled into the anchorage at Rock Sound we were witness to a spectacular rain shower just to our north. With the anchor set, Barry and I each relaxed in our own way. For me, I took advantage of a strong cell signal to check in with Aunt B in North Carolina. It had been several weeks since we had last spoken so she caught me up on all the comings and goings. While she sat on her front porch and watched the butterflies in her creeping phlox, we spoke of Easter and how all of her flowers were in full bloom. I'm loving all the blues here, but I do miss the pinks and purples of early spring.

Showers continued to threaten for the remainder of the afternoon so we never lowered the dinghy. We'll do that in the morning. Mother Nature's show continued with a small rainbow over town to the east. As the sun dropped lower in the sky, the eastern clouds assumed a yellow tint while the rainbow remained vibrant. Off to the west, the sky turned a bright orange as a low cloud bank absorbed the final rays of the day.  

Farewell Friends, Farewell Exumas

Norman's Cay   

It was a busy morning on Crossroads as I dusted, vacuumed, and re-stowed items that were in desperate need of finding a home behind closed doors. I did my hour of exercises and then, poof, it was lunchtime. I took my book to Fiberglass Beach and enjoyed the afternoon. Most of the boats had departed and I could look out upon sparkling water all the way to the horizon. Air traffic continued to be surprisingly heavy as several jets and turbo props came in for afternoon landings. By 3:00 the day's new boat arrivals had secured spots in the anchorage. Many folks use Norman's Cay as the Day 1 stop of week-long charters out of Nassau for good reason. The setting is the perfect introduction to what lies to the south along the entire Exuma chain. For us, our arrival at Norman's Cay (and not Bimini) has always made us proclaim, "It's Better In The Bahamas."

At 6:00 we gathered for a delicious dinner hosted by Lynn and Terry aboard Finish Grade (a 55-foot Selene), along with Susie and Todd (SaltyMare, a 53-foot Selene). We ate outside on the upper deck and watched as the sun set into a cloud bank just above the horizon. Todd brought his conch shell and sent our final day together out in style with two impressive blows. We all chatted and laughed while having a great time together. "What time is it? 8:00?," someone asked. It was actually 10:00 and we then scrambled to get in final hugs and goodbyes before departing. We had a long dinghy ride across the anchorage, but the sea and wind were flat. We love our remote control which allows us to turn on the lights when we get in the "driveway." Tomorrow we will make the 7-hour trip to Rock Sound, Eleuthera while both SaltyMare and Finish Grade will do the short hop to Shroud Cay. Its been a fun two days with these great friends and we look forward to following their journey and meeting up again in the future. No group photos were taken tonight, but I did receive two that were taken yesterday. Great friends. Great times. Great memories. 

A Pleasant Surprise

Shroud Cay to Norman's Cay |  1.2 Hours  |  5.7 Miles  

Our time in the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park was everything we had hoped for with plenty of adventures both under the water and on land. The plan was to depart early this morning for a short trip north to Norman's Cay. Mother Nature said, "Not so fast." Heavy showers to the north put us in a rain delay, although it never rained in our anchorage at Shroud Cay. The clouds moved out then we did likewise. We anchored in a wide open space with a great view of the cell tower. It was nice to get our internet service back. Our neighbors were one lone sailboat close by and two trawlers a half a mile to the north. Barry and I assumed they were the two Flemings that we'd been seeing since Cambridge Cay. We were waiting for high tide around noon to visit Norman's Pond so we had a few free moments. I went downstairs to watch the livestream from Home Church. About the end of the liturgy, I heard multiple voices and laughter from upstairs. We had visitors. Surprise ... the two trawlers were not Flemings, they were fellow Selenes SaltyMare and Finish Grade. Susie and Todd (SaltyMare) and Lynn and Terry (Finish Grade) were on their way to the pond when they spotted us. We chatted for a few moments from the stern of Crossroads and made plans to catch up with in the pond on the opposite side of the island.

We have attempted this trip twice before, but had chickened out both times because of rough seas. It was still a bit bouncy today, but we made it to the small opening where we met the other dinghies. We ventured in single file through the narrow gap between two jagged rocks. Inside, a lone white marker guided us around a shoal. The water was sparkling clear with wide-ranging depths. The lighter areas being shallow, and the darker areas deep. We rafted up together in the center of the pond and discussed what to do next. At the top of the list was a group photo. 

The second issue for speculation was how in the world that large motor yacht made it into the pond -- first through the small opening, then across the shallows. The pucker factor must have been intense. The boat was an eye-catching art deco design. We tried not to stare, but were not very successful. We visited two caves before identifying a beach to land upon.

We all anchored and waded through knee-deep water along the shore. Lynn and Susie discovered treasures while walking in the incredibly soft beach that sucked out feet in like quicksand. I enjoyed walking through the shallows and admiring the little mangrove trees putting down roots in the surf. With slack tide disappearing, we exited the pond and returned to our anchorage. We followed in the wakes of the two larger/faster boats and enjoyed a slightly smoother ride back to Crossroads. 

All along the shore are signs of new development around the marina. Waterside bungalows are sprouting up in a long row. A large private jet landed at the airport, followed shortly by a helicopter. I finished another book on the bow before getting my shower. We gathered with Finish Grade on SaltyMare for sundowner appys. It was a fabulous evening to celebrate the pleasant surprise of catching up with friends.  

Exploring Between The Golden Hours

Shroud Cay  

The ocean swell and wind were at odds overnight, creating a rolly motion that was not conducive to deep sleep. I watched from the pilothouse as first light turned into a golden dawn before the sun rose over Shroud Cay. Soon the orange transitioned to blue. Once again we found ourselves awaiting high tide to leave Crossroads. We ate an early lunch and then hopped in the dinghy for another trip through the mangroves. Today we went south around the point and past Little Pigeon Cay to our starboard. The water was a beautiful sparkling blue. We entered into an inland creek marked by the Exuma Park sign that dictated a maximum speed of three knots. 

We had plenty of water under us, yet we could make out every sand ripple on the bottom. It was that clear. Mangroves lined the edges and turtles passed effortlessly below us. Large billowing white clouds occasionally blocked the sun, but for the most part the water glistened. We watched as the landscape transitioned mid-island to rock ledges and typical hardwood trees. 

As we neared our destination at the eastern side of the island, the area opened up into a large tidal flat. From previous visits, we knew that this area was dry at low tide (which is why we came at high tide). Hearty mangrove saplings rose above the water which had shallowed to six inches deep. I pulled the dinghy the final three hundred yards to where the creek and the ocean almost met. A small stretch of sand separated the direct flow. We set our anchor under the tree and walked a short distance to the ocean.

There was not another person in sight and we had not encountered any other dinghy traffic. The only prints we found in the sand were avian. We walked up and down the clean sand at the surf zone. Up higher in the sand, there was quite a bit of plastic trash that had washed up -- along with a small skiff. I preferred to look out over the water and enjoy another stroll in paradise.

We spent an hour walking and then returned to the dinghy. The shallow water and sand flats seemed to shine even more when traveling west. The south mooring field/anchorage had emptied out while we were out exploring. Crossroads sat all by herself as we turned the corner for home.

I spent the late afternoon reading until dinner. By 7:00, the sky once again assumed its golden glow. We took the dinghy out for a little sunset cruise at low tide. There is a three-foot change in water depth between high and low tides which can bee seen as a color change at the base of the rocky ledges. The large clouds to the east soaked up the soft lighting.

We positioned Crossroads in between us and the sun to get a few silhouette shots. Several large motor yachts were positioned on the horizon. A low level cloud bank eliminated any chance of a green flash, but had its upper edge illuminated by the final rays of the day. We raised the dinghy back on the upper deck in preparation for tomorrow's departure. We will exit the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park with tons of great memories and photos. We plan to spend tomorrow afternoon exploring some new areas around Norman's Cay.

A Ride On The Lazy River

Emerald Rock to Shroud Cay |  2.7 Hours  |  17.8 Miles  

We moved north today in search of fresh areas to explore and an internet signal. Barry and I each miss connectivity in our own way. Barry enjoys streaming the Today Show, Jeopardy!, and catching a TV drama at night. My days don't seem right without my daily texts and calls to and from my family. We eased off the mooring ball at Emerald Rock and made our way back into the main travel lanes at rush hour. Dozens of boats were following the sailing line both north and south. What a pleasant surprise it was to pass Asanté, and catch up with Nancy and Blaine over the radio on their activities since we last saw them in Long Island. Our destination was Shroud Cay, at the northern limits of the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park. While there are no cell towers on the island, it is much closer to the tower on the next island north. We joined close to 20 boats in the south anchorage and had some lunch. During that time two large motor yachts departed the anchorage. We moved closer to shore and reset the anchor in their vacated spot before lowering the dinghy. High tide had just passed, so it was the optimal time to head north to Sanctuary Creek and one of the most beautiful passages in all of The Bahamas. The entrance to the creek is wide and well-marked. The small print on the sign prohibits jet boats and speeds over three knots throughout the delicate ecosystem. Sadly, most of the megayacht tenders act as if the rules don't apply to them. The crystal clear water beckoned us to move forward. 

Mangroves line the water's edge. We saw dozens of turtles, of all sizes, swimming along. More surprising was the occasional shark siting.

The creek led to Driftwood Beach on the Eastern side of the island. A large sandbar stretched across the entrance inviting visitors to walk two hundred yards out in ankle-deep water. 

It was another perfect day in the Exumas. No matter how many pictures I take, none perfectly capture the setting. 

After an hour of walking up and down the beach, we began our trip out at max ebb tide. We spotted many more turtles by looking through the water. I caught two by putting the camera in the water and hoping for a good shot. The tide was falling as evidenced by the exposed mangrove knees and the emerging sandbar.

We were able to idle the outboard and just float in the current of the lazy river. Since our initial crossing of the anchorage, several new rocks and sandbars had emerged from the "deep" water as we approached low tide. Back on Crossroads, I read on Fiberglass Beach and watched eight white-tailed tropicbirds glide above the anchorage. As a bonus, the birds were vocal and filled the air with their song. The sun sets much later these days which allows us to finish dinner before catching Mother Nature's light show. We watched the day's colorful end from the flybridge. 

Off The Grid, But In Touch With Nature

Emerald Rock  

Overnight, the weak cell signal we were thankful for yesterday disappeared. A common error message appeared on all of our devices. It was official -- we were off the grid. We piddled around Crossroads in the morning while waiting for both high tide and lunch time. Following lunch, we took the dinghy a short distance to the sandy cove directly in front of us. We walked north until we ran out of sand then turned around and headed as far south as we could go. A small sign directed us toward the Davis Ruins. We followed the rocky ledge to an elevated plateau where a stacked stone wall ran lengthwise to the island. Somewhere beyond the wall are the ruins of a plantation that time has forgotten. We gazed north across the Emerald Rock mooring field before returning to sea level.     

Several curly tailed lizards darted into vegetation as we approached. There is always one that realizes we're of no threat and stubbornly holds onto his coveted place in the sun. We found the sign marking our presence on Rendezvous Beach. With no more to explore in that area, we relocated the dinghy to another calm little cove. Beryl's Beach has a northerly orientation, with a rocky point protecting it from the southerly swell. We found the marker for Peggy's Trail and followed it across a rocky stretch. It was slow going as each footstep needed to be analyzed. Several large craters filled with water were just outside of the yellow paint splashes that marked the trail. 

Eventually the rock was replaced by sand and we exited onto Loyalist Beach. We again walked as far north and south as possible. It was another ideal beach -- clean soft sand, a gentle slope with small wave ripples, and a dreamy light blue tint to the water. We stopped our southern trek at Cockle Beach and will save further exploration for next year. A surfside tree cast an interesting shadow upon the sand.

I could have walked and lounged here for hours. Barry was a bit more anxious to get back to Crossroads. The dinghy once again appeared to be hovering in air as opposed to floating on the water. The ride back was flat, dry, and beautiful. 

We waited about an hour for the tide to fall some more. When the water turned a shallow milky white, we knew it was time to go snorkeling at The Rangers Garden. This coral reef is located between the park office and Narrow Water Cay. We tied up to the dinghy mooring and slid into the water overtop of an active reef. Immediately I was drawn to to the colorful fish, but then we had a turtle siting.  

The turtle was in no hurry and allowed us to swim along with him for a good distance. Once it got out into the deeper water with lower visibility, we turned back and revisited the reef to find more interesting blue fish. (Next year, I'll have a book to help me identify what I see.)

The water depth and lighting were both perfect for capturing a few decent shots. The coral reef itself was as captivating as the fish. Large purple sea fans waved gently in the current. We were in the water for about an hour and never ran out of exciting and interesting things to observe. This is how it is supposed to be. A small rain cloud moved over us after returning to Crossroads and raising the dinghy back to the upper deck. The rest of the evening disappeared with showers, dinner, and watching a movie. We will make another short jump north tomorrow where we should have a stronger internet signal. 

A Walk In The Park

Cambridge Cay to Emerald Rock |  1.9 Hours  |  11.1 Miles  

This morning's high tide occurred around 10:00. With the extra water under our keel, we decided to exit the Cambridge Cay mooring field to the south rather than retrace the path we made four days ago. We joked that we completed the Bell Cay Loop. It was a short trip up to the Emerald Rock mooring field off of Warderick Wells Cay. There were only three balls available and we chose the one nearest the namesake rock. I threaded our lines through the pendant, walked them to the bow, and cleated them off. The process went pretty smoothly. The view from the bow was sweet -- a small sandy beach waiting to be explored. We had lunch and waited for the Exuma Park office to reopen at 1:00 before going ashore to check in. A quick circle around Crossroads proved that everything was looking good.

While we waited our turn in the office, we enjoyed the incredible view from the deck. With business taken care of, it was time to walk down the sidewalk pavers to the beach. Before we got too much sand in our shoes, we had to get photos with the sign.

We walked across the beach to the sign marking the trail to Boo Boo Hill. Remembering that the path took us across a long rocky stretch and also through a creek, I wore my water shoes instead of my usual flip flops. Proper footwear makes a huge difference. Along the trail a sign marked an area in the tidal zone full of young mangrove trees. We expected to walk through ankle deep water while crossing Banshee Creek. Low tide had reduced it to a minor trickle and Barry hopped across the creek with one giant leap. A good sized lizard kept an eye on us as we began our ascent of the hill. 

From the top of Boo Boo Hill, the view revealed the light-colored shallows far exceeded the dark deeper water channel. The accumulation of cruiser-placed avatars has sprawled across the ridge. We took a few moments looking for boat names we recognized before Barry pulled out his phone and took advantage of the strongest cell signal reception. I went looking for the avatar that we placed last year to no avail.

The recent strong east winds have whipped up larger waves on Exuma Sound which were crashing onto the rocky shore below. As a large group of folks arrived, we started down to give them more room. When we got down to the Banshee Creek flats, we made a detour and followed the trickle of flow to the deeper water.  

We walked around the rocky ledges at the water's edge on our way back to our starting point. Along the way we saw numerous conch in the tidal pools. One tidal pool had about six inches of water in it and appeared to be a blue hole. Back on Crossroads, I read for a while out on Fiberglass Beach. A large shark cruised by to check us out. Clouds increased as night approached, but left just enough room for a small display of downward rays from the setting sun,