Measuring and Marking

Beaufort  

Eric, our frame contractor, arrived this morning and immediately got to work. He and Barry made final measurements and went over the game plan one more time. In the parking lot, Eric's work trailer contained his hydraulic tube bender. He marked the 24-foot sections of 1.25-inch stainless steel tubing and began crafting the bows for our new bimini frame. It was impressive to watch as he made both small- and large-radius bends. The right tool for the job made for efficient work. By 5:00, two of the three bows were in place and supported with cross members. They'll pick up again tomorrow with more measuring and marking.   

As the sun set on our 22nd day in Beaufort since "The Blow," it was ironic that we finally could see some light at the end of this long tunnel. 

A Little Progress Made

Beaufort  

Barry laid out all of our shiny new connectors and we organized or put away other parts and tools in preparation for visitors. The sun was bright, wind was calm, and the sky clear, but it was another cold morning with the temperature in the high 30s. Barry applied one more coat of varnish on the name boards. By midmorning we were on the flybridge to do our last piece of prep: removing the old canvas bimini top from the frame. We had to bring out the big cutters to cut open the 22-year-old zipper sliders that had taken a set. By midday we were officially topless. Our canvas contractor arrived around 1:00 with our new name board covers and to do the final fitting on our hatch cover. It was such a relief to see a little progress being made. 

We were anticipating the frame contractor to arrive this afternoon as well so we had to stay close to Crossroads. The day had warmed up nicely and not wanting to sit inside, I broke out the cleaning supplies and started washing and waxing. At 3:00 we received a call that he would be to us tomorrow at 9:00. We were slightly disappointed, but appreciative of the update which gave us a chance to walk into Beaufort for a few hours. With our guide map in hand our goal was to visit areas we had not yet seen. The Easton House has history as home to the leader of the Beaufort militia against the British during the American Revolution. It also was used as both a hospital and prison at different times during the Civil War. I was first drawn to it, however, by the magnolia tree towering over the two-story house. Mother Nature was on full display. A squirrel did his best imitation of a column-topping finial. It sat motionless as we closely passed. Camellias of pink and red were in full bloom.  

We walked along the western shore to an area we've seen by boat, but never by land. The Beaufort Inn looks out onto the ICW. From their pier we could get a better look at the shrimp boats that we see from our slip. We meandered up and down the tree-lined streets, looking at all the historic buildings, the characteristic Beaufort picket fences, and a few modern structures that have been build outside the historic district. Topping our must-see list was the oldest house in Beaufort, located at the far east end of our map. Billed in the brochure as "the most intriguing house in Beaufort," how could we resist? Legend says the Hammock House was a favorite spot of the pirate Blackbeard. 

I found the houses across the street from Hammock House equally interesting. We worked our way back to Front Street and walked along Taylor Creek as we returned to the historic district as daylight was beginning to fade. We stopped to observe the flowers placed at the Capt. Michael Smith memorial. Sunday was the 38th anniversary of the Space Shuttle Challenger explosion. The Leffers Cottage is an example of a "story and a jump" or a one-and-a-half story house. The sun was sinking fast, casting a warm glow and long shadows. Our final building of note was the Odd Fellows Lodge which was built at night by the same brick masons working on Fort Macon during the day. (Fort Macon was built with 9.2 MILLION bricks and these workers used their down time to build this two story building.) 

Our arrival back at Crossroads came at dusk. The final rays of the sun lit the edges of the clouds before sinking and finishing with a red glow.

Back At It ... Ready and Waiting

Beaufort  

We had a very productive Saturday at our house. Long "Hollywood" showers and load after load of laundry preceded an afternoon of yard work in the warm sunshine. I enjoyed the opportunity to get outside and rake the layer of late-falling leaves. What I got up will be less that I have to get up in May. The grass should come in much better as well. All was enjoyable until I came across a brown snake sunning in a camellia. Following my high-pitched shriek, we agreed to ignore each other, but I was much more cautious. As I was finishing up, the front approached with an increase in wind and a slight drizzle. Barry spent the afternoon working on the name boards we brought home, sanding and applying varnish. We headed to Mom's for supper and gave her a big surprise. Lisa and Robbie were in on it and kept our sneaky plans from her. We brought her a new tablet and got her all set up. We can now welcome her back to the blog readership. After discussing how nice and warm the day was, Robbie brought a snowball out of the freezer which he had collected just last week. The weather flips back and forth so quickly. Back at our house, Barry applied on more coat of varnish to our name boards. Heavy rain fell overnight, but Sunday was clear and much colder. We loaded up the Escape and closed up the house (again). It was an uneventful drive back to Beaufort and we arrived just before dark.

Today we unpacked, put another coat of varnish on the boards, and prepared for tomorrow's highly-anticipated arrival of the frame contractor. We unpacked and assembled all of our connectors to be ready. The wind was blustery most of the day so we didn't make a trip to walk the beach. I restocked provisions from the commissary to our working pantry. Unknown to me, Barry captured the final photo. He rarely takes photos and excitedly shared this one, so I felt compelled to include it. You can make your own jokes. I'll just say that I'm looking forward to getting my paddle board out of the commissary so there will be enough room for me to get all the way into our storage area under the floor. 

The sun slipped away with calm winds and minimal cloud cover. Tomorrow is supposed to be a nice day. With fingers crossed, we're ready and waiting for the contractor's arrival.

Taking The Weekend Off

Glen Allen, VA  

We were content with the contractors' scheduling we received yesterday. The forecast called for a rainy weekend in Beaufort. Our list of interior boat projects was dwindling. I really needed to do several loads of laundry. My mom has been struggling with some health issues. So ... we decided to take an extended road trip. We packed up a few bags this morning and headed home for the weekend. Before leaving town, however, we made a quick detour to a bakery highly-recommended by fellow cruisers. We had done our internet research and found it was only open from 8:00-3:00, Thursday through Saturday. This tiny storefront with "your friendly neighborhood boulangerie" on the window was a treat for many of the senses, but especially olfaction. It became obvious that this was more than your basic pastry shop. Bakeries who bake their bread on-premises hold the title of "boulangerie" in France. I picked up two croissants to go and we scooted out of town. The Marine Air Corps Station at Cherry Point was the first intriguing site along the way. Just outside of New Bern, we stopped to get gas and enjoyed our oh-so-flakey-and-delicious croissants.

We clicked off the uneventful miles as we made our way to I-95. When we arrived at the house, we were greeted by springtime temperatures. We turned on the water and water heater and then opened up every window and door to both air out and warm up the interior. The house was 60 degrees so it was an easy decision to go outside. After picking up several handfuls of downed sticks and limbs, I settled in my favorite spot on the deck to soak up the sun and do a little reading. This evening, watching the sun set beyond our fence was a pleasant treat. As I write this, I'm on my fifth and final load of laundry. Tomorrow we'll put several coats of varnish our name boards before joining my Mom, sister, and brother-in-law for supper. (Lisa and Robbie know, but Mom does not. Family, please keep it a surprise.) I'll take a couple of nights off from the blog, but please check back after Monday evening when we return to Beaufort. We're hoping for big things and much progress next week so we can start moving and get to The Bahamas as planned.  

Seeing Things Clearer Through The Fog

Beaufort   

(Warm Air + Cold Water) x No Wind = Fog. All those factors were present this morning and the blanket that settled over Town Creek was dense and stationary. We decided to delay our planned early errand run hoping the fog would burn off. Turned out that was a good decision for another reason. At 9:00 our canvas contractor stopped by to gather final dimensions for two smaller projects while awaiting access to the new bimini. We're in need of a new forward hatch cover to replace the one torn by the fallen solar panel. We have also decided to get covers made for our name boards to protect them from the sun while at dock. This should keep us from having to refinish the teak every other year. Those projects should be delivered on Monday. Later I went for a walk around the marina and on my return spotted our frame contractor on the the flybridge with Barry going over The Plan. He will be to us first thing Tuesday morning. Woohoo! By this time next week we should see some serious progress. After lunch we hit the road to knock out those errands and a beach walk. As we emerged from the path through the Atlantic Beach dunes, we could not even see the ocean for the heavy fog. Even as we walked along the surf line, we could not see beyond the breaking waves.

The overcast sky made for nice photos, however, and the oranges of the shells offered a much appreciated splash of color. While looking down at the shells, we always had to keep an eye scanning for vehicle traffic along the beach. Back in the Escape, we headed to West Marine and Ace Hardware for our daily supplies run, picking up more bolts for the new frame. Our trip across the bridge back to Beaufort was in perfect timing with the setting sun. 

Starting to Come Together

Beaufort   

A little sign of progress was delivered today. The fittings and connectors for the new bimini/solar panel frame arrived this morning via FedEx. Their shiny stainless steel glistened in the sunshine as we examined them. Yes, the day started off with sunshine and then warmed up nicely. Barry removed the last of the damaged frame. After lunch we began sanding our teak name boards in preparation for re-varnishing. This project needed to be done outside on a warm, dry day. We finally got one. Barry used the power tools and I followed with hand sanding of the corners and around the cut vinyl lettering. For a few hours it was shorts and T-shirt weather, then the wind picked up and the clouds rolled in. Back in jeans and a sweatshirt, we went for a late afternoon walk to stretch our legs. The best shot from tonight's sunset occurred before the sun dropped below the cloud bank with the small white clouds creating an intricate patchwork pattern against the bluebird sky. The stainless steel tubing should arrive tomorrow. Hopefully things are starting to come together.

 

Time Travel

Beaufort   

It was a day for travel and exploration. When we realized we would use Beaufort as a home base for much longer than anticipated, Barry and I each made a list of places we'd like to visit. I then strung the stops together into a route that made sense for a day trip. Our first outing was today. We departed Crossroads at 8:00 under a heavy cloud cover that made it seem much earlier than it was. We headed south to a favorite spot from my past: Atlantic Towers in Carolina Beach. It was the site of the First and Last Annual Nieces and Nephews Beach Trip and of one of our family's favorite photos. I took the original photo back in 1985 and therefore was not in it. The time was now for me to recreate the scene. The ocean was mild-mannered this morning. I doubt one of today's small waves could have flipped someone's (not mine) blow-up float as it happened 39 years ago.

We continued south and stopped at Fort Fisher which was built to keep the port of Wilmington open to blockade-runners supplying the Confederate army during the Civil War. The first thing we noticed was the construction of a beautiful new visitors center that should be ready this summer. The real star of the show, however, was the earthworks. Fort Fisher was made of earth and sand, ideal for absorbing the shock of heavy explosives. The windswept crooked branches of the live oaks tell the story of Mother Nature's assault. Today only a few mounds remain as much of the fort has been eroded by the ocean. Our guide pointed out how the fort was captured by Union forces on January 15, 1865, and asked us to consider the weather during that time. The most imposing cannon was the large Armstrong mounted midway along the fort's sea face. It could accurately hurl a 150-pound shell a distance of up to five miles. Problem was, the Confederacy did not have enough shells and it was rarely fired during the final conflict. Across the street was the Fort Fisher Monument, erected in 1921. We spent more time than planned at the fort, but in no way came close to seeing everything. We had to get moving to make one of Barry's picks.  

He wanted to take a ride on a vehicle ferry. We pulled into the queue line at the Fort Fisher Ferry just as the inbound ship was arriving. When it was our turn, we drove onto the boat and took our spot. Soon we were crossing the Cape Fear River which was anything but ferocious today. We sat in the warmth of the Escape and watched as familiar landmarks passed by. Thirty-eight minutes later we were in Southport.

Off we drove and headed to a favorite BBQ place we've visited before. The red slaw was much anticipated by me and definitely brings thoughts of home cookin'. After lunch we drove into Wilmington to tour the Battleship North Carolina (BB-55). The ship's keel was laid in October 1936 and it was commissioned on April 9, 1941. She was decommissioned in June 1947 and moved to Wilmington in October 1961. It has always been one of North Carolina's top attractions, but neither one of us had ever seen her.  

The North Carolina participated in every Major World War II naval offensive in the Pacific Theater and was the most decorated American battleship of that time. A crew of 2,300 served onboard. She was at that time considered the world's greatest sea weapon and embodied the finest engineering and technology available. As the pride of the US Navy's fleet, she was referred to as "Showboat." We went up and down ladders and decks. I was thankful for the yellow arrows leading me through. Without that guidance, I'd probably still be trying to find my way back to the visitor's center. Bits of old technology and nostalgia intrigued me the most. The Challenge cutter and mimeograph stencils in the print shop reminded me I'm no spring chicken. I used very similar pieces in my younger years. The Sir Walter Raleigh tobacco cans brought back memories of my dad. Sadly, the instructions for a proper onboard shower have not changed at all. This sign needs to be available in the gift shop for use in every boat. What color should the shells on the North Carolina be? Carolina Blue, of course. The ship carried almost 2 million gallons of fuel and averaged 166 gallons per mile. Looking at it another way, the 729-foot North Carolina moved 32 feet for every gallon burned. Our little trawler seems pretty fuel efficient in comparison, 

We finished up our tour with a stroll along the Memorial Walkway that encircles the ship. A lone heron waded in the mudflats. The cloud cover remained heavy all day. As the sun set on our two hour drive back to Beaufort there was no color, just a subtle shading to black. Walking down the dock, Homer Smith Marina, located across Town Creek from Crossroads, glowed in the darkness. 

All Smiles After A Short Cruise

Beaufort   

It was a beautiful morning on Town Creek. Bright sun and no wind made for both bearable temperatures and mirrored reflections on the still water. The shrimp boats docked on Radio Island and the Gallants Channel Bridge are usual features in my sunset photo series, but also look pretty good in the daylight. We did a few chores this morning before deciding today was a perfect day to take a short cruise to the pumpout dock. Although nowhere close to the cruising we prefer, after 17 days here in Beaufort it was wonderful to start the engine and pretend. It took almost a half hour to separate and/or stow our 12 fenders, 10 docklines, and power cord. We were out of the slip by 1:00 and taking care of business five minutes later. Town Creek Marina has an excellent pumpout -- ranking in our all-time Top 5. (Crazy little things make cruisers smile.)

We returned to the slip without drama then reconnected all the lines, cords, and fenders. With our spirits lifted we were excited to spend the rest of the afternoon walking Atlantic Beach. A six and a half mile drive took us to our private beach access and to another world. Cresting the dune, the low melody of the surf becomes the only sound. It was just past low tide and we had the wide beach to ourselves. We spotted several interesting shells, a half dollar, a jellyfish, and a sea star at the water's edge. I collected no shells today, but did bring back a few small pieces of driftwood.

We walked for a while then reversed and almost retraced our steps. I say almost because the tide was quickly advancing over our footprints. The gulls had assembled in the tidal pools looking for a snack. Seeing paw prints in the sand, then a scruffy little dog fetching in the surf made me smile. Kudos to the dog's human for her loose take on the leash law. This dog probably had 50-feet of line attached to his collar. It was almost as good as running free. I was enjoying the freedom as well. 

An eerie desolation accompanied us as we travelled back across the ICW. Where was everybody? Days like this are a treat. We ran to West Marine (because we could) looking for some fasteners. A special shout-out to the great ladies at Carteret Vision Center who fixed my eyeglasses without charge. I had lost one of the nosepads and they are now much more comfortable. We again returned to Crossroads just in time to catch the sunset. Mother Nature's presentation of the colors has become an important part of our daily routine.

Could It Be "Groundhog Day" Already?

Beaufort   

Dang, it was cold this morning. Officially, the low here in Beaufort was 24. I know we were warmer than a lot of places, but it was way colder than any temperature anticipated when we left Deltaville. We turned our attention to a few boat projects to occupy the morning. One of the packages David and Sue brought us last week contained new faucets for the two bathroom sinks. Yesterday's trip to Lowe's was to pick up all the other parts needed for installation of faucet. Remarkably, the process went well and looks amazing. We celebrated by returning to Lowe's to get the parts to install the other faucet. We have to pace ourselves. Back onboard Crossroads, it was time for the ballgames to begin. I cheered as the UVA women knocked off 15th-ranked Florida State on the road. That game overlapped with the start of the first football game, which then overlapped with the sunset. I tried to find a different perspective and thought the reflection in our neighbor's window was interesting. We ate dinner before the kickoff of the second game. I am very thankful for all the games that have kept me occupied during this frigid weekend. Tomorrow starts the warmup so we'll hit the road again and see what we can see. We have referenced the movie Groundhog Day several times in the past few days. Here's hoping we start seeing some progress during the upcoming week.

To keep the string alive, here is tonight's sunset shot from the dock, looking across Town Creek.

Looks Can Be Deceiving

Beaufort   

The view out the master port was that of a clear and sunny morning. My imagination ran wild and I used those cues to extrapolate an outside temperature of at least 60 degrees. Wrong ... by a factor of two. We started out at 30 degrees and didn't warm up much all day. At least there were plenty of ball games to watch: Deacs, Heels, Hoos and two NFL playoff contests. I'd take occasional strolls onto the dock, but the blustery wind quickly chased me back onboard. Very few clouds were in the area at sunset. The clear sky means tonight will be even colder with a wind chill near zero. Looks like tomorrow's agenda will be much like today's. Thankfully the forecast calls for a warmup starting on Monday.   

A Mixed Bag

Beaufort   

Cloudy and sunny. Warm(er) and cold. Serious and light-hearted. New destinations and revisits. Today had it all. The sun was behind the clouds as we left Crossroads this morning. By the time we crossed the highrise bridge, blue sky was dominant and the sun provided welcomed warmth. Led by Roadside America, a guide to offbeat tourist attractions, we ventured off our well-traveled path to find three attractions along the Morehead City waterfront. The welcome signs were interesting and attractive, but the streets were deserted. We walked first to the Head of Woo Woo Harker, the beloved owner and captain of the charter boat Carolina Princess. His bronze head with rope trim and a bell faces the waterfront. Not shown is the seven-foot tall iron fence that encircles the monument to protect Woo Woo from vandals.   

Next on our list was the 17-foot tall marlin statue, identical in scale to a world-record size marlin. Around the base are inscribed the names of each year's winner of the Big Rock Blue Marlin Tournament. The 65th tournament will be held this year from June 7-16, and features a multi-million dollar purse. Our final spot was more whimsical. A large King Neptune statue sits on the dock beside a dive center, complete with trident and merman tail. Feeling good that we checked off those sites so quickly, we crosed back over the ICW to the Bogue Banks to further explore a few spots we found yesterday. The North Carolina Aquarium at Pine Knoll Shores was first up. The spadefish sculpture outside the entrance is quite spectacular and worthy of another photo. A mountain waterfall; a huge 300,000 gallon ocean habitat complete with shipwreck and sharks; and a river otter habitat all weave a journey of a raindrop from the state's Smoky Mountains to the Atlantic Ocean. Interactive exhibits and an assortment of smaller tanks were big draws for us. Jellyfish are beautiful in their private tank, but no so much when occupying the marina waters back home.

The tropical tank featured several species including angel fish, blue tang, and sergeant major that we look forward to seeing face-to-face in The Bahamas. The porcupine fish was an interesting creature that inflates its body and make their spines stand out when threatened. The jaw of an ancient megalodon shark was at one end of the size spectrum, the tiny seahorse at the opposite.

There was a huge gift shop with many cute stuffed animals and T-shirts. We passed on all and departed for our next destination, Fort Macon. Yesterday we learned of a guided tour that began at 1:00 and timed our arrival perfectly. Fort Macon is a state park that has no admission fee. The visitors center is a beautiful facility with massive wooden doors and several galleries. The wind was now whipping the flag that laid limp yesterday. The sign on the way to the fort was both cute and accurate.

Our volunteer guide led us through many of the 26 casemates (vaulted rooms). Arched doorways connected the rooms so the soldiers never had to go outside to the courtyard. The walls of the fort are over four-feet thick and were formed from over 9.2 million locally sourced bricks back in 1862. Different casemates were dedicated to bread-making in wood-fired oven, a commissary, dining hall, kitchen, barracks, or munitions and powder magazines. Cannons are stationed atop the fort, two stacks of cannonballs flank the staircase. 

After a couple of hours, we left and started working our way back to the marina. We had enough time to stop at Atlantic Beach and revisit the beach walk from yesterday. What a difference a day makes! Our sunny and calm scene from 24-hours ago, had drastically changed. The ocean is a fickle beast and today it was showing its muscle. Surfers were out riding the waves next to the pier. The gulls were having difficulty staying aloft and many resigned to walking alongside me in the stiff breeze.

Looking south, it only appeared to be much warmer. I bid farewell to a shorebird knee-deep in the sea foam and sought refuge in the heated Escape. We scooted back across the bridge to Beaufort and again arrived just in time for Mother Nature's evening performance. 

A mixed bag of sun and clouds are needed to create a wonderful sunset to close the day. 

A Day At The Beach

Beaufort   

It was a beautiful morning and warm enough (for January). We put on our light jackets and excitedly left Crossroads for a day trip. While walking the dock to the parking lot, we saw our favorite little bird swimming alongside us. We have been captivated by this small, chunky black and white bird for days. It doesn't really have a tail or neck and has a stubby little bill. Most interesting, however, is that it dives and swims underwater like a penguin. It is loads of fun to watch. Plugging all these characteristics into Google, we identified it as a Dovekie, an off-shore winter visitor that is related to the puffin. Once in the car we headed south through Morehead City on US 70 with the required stops at West Marine and Harbor Freight for a few supplies. We then hopped over to Highway 24, skirted the Croatan National Forest, and passed by more Dollar Generals than I could keep track of before crossing over the ICW/Bogue Sound to Emerald Isle. 

Neither Barry nor I had ever visited the Bogue Banks so we figured we'd start our trip at The Point, the southernmost tip of the island ... only to find there was no parking or beach access. We were surprised by the large berms and hills that were covered with thick green vegetation. The canopies of twisted live oaks formed privacy screens between the road and private residences. We were not surprised by the density of houses, built property line to property line, or the amount of ongoing construction. The traffic must be insane and bumper to bumper in the summer. We pulled into The Inn and took the adjacent boardwalk through the dune to the beach. The view was incredible and the beach was wide at low tide. I was drawn to walk the surf zone where there were plenty of shells laying on the sand.  

The low lapping waves terminated as foam. Barry reminded me that we had other places to visit and I returned to the boardwalk, but had to take one last look back through the sea oats. We made a quick detour into the NC Aquarium at Pine Knoll Shores just to check it out. We'll visit it on another day.

The next town north was Atlantic Beach. We made our way to a spot recommended by my Aunt Wrenn and took the short walk to the beach. Wow. The sand was covered in shells and the Oceanana Fishing Pier was an easy walk away. The ocean was perfectly flat and several boats were enjoying a spectacular travel day. Yes, we were wishing we were out there saying, "50 hours to Florida."

I started collecting shells, but quickly found that I couldn't carry the shells and take pictures at the same time. What to do? I set my shells down in a little pile and continued to the pier which stretches nearly 1,000 feet into the ocean. 

Shore birds walked alongside me as the sun made its way toward the horizon. I came back with as many shells as I could carry. It was a nice start to filling my 2024 shell bowl. The day was fleeting, but we still wanted to make one last stop at Fort Macon. We parked, made a quick trip around the fort and agreed we'd come back another day to take the tour and see all of the exhibits. 

As we crossed back over the Beaufort Highrise Bridge, I commented that I might miss tonight's sunset. Thankfully, when I got back to Crossroads the show was just beginning. 

It was a beautiful end to a beautiful day. Life takes you down many paths, but the best ones lead to the beach. 

A Day Spent With Friends

Beaufort   

It is no secret that the last week has been both disappointing and stressful. So many plans have needed to be altered. One of the first to change was a meetup with David and Sue (DayDreaming) in Southport. They live is Supply, NC, but they share a home marina with us in Deltaville. Prior to our departure, they had graciously agreed to receive two packages for us believing we were mere days away. Anxious to rid themselves of our Amazon boxes and not minding the drive, they even more graciously offered to deliver them to us in Beaufort. With anxious anticipation we awaited their arrival this morning. We spent an hour aboard Crossroads catching up and sharing stories of boating adventures. Their boat is currently in Canada for the winter and they will continue their Great Loop journey in late spring. We went into town and enjoyed an extended lunch, then returned to Crossroads. I doubt there was subject left unaddressed. As the sun began to set we said our farewells, very thankful for a special day with friends. There were no clouds in the sky to enhance tonight's sunset. For tonight though, a nice solid orange was appropriate. I compared the color to UVA orange and it proved to be a good omen for the Cavaliers' victory over the Hokies. Although tomorrow will begin below freezing, it is supposed to be sunny with low wind. Barry and I will make another attempt to visit Emerald Isle, Atlantic Beach, and Fort Macon before the next round of rain arrives and the temperatures plummet. 

Another Day Implementing Plan B

Beaufort   

We were all set to begin our exploration of the area this morning. Last night I plugged several destinations into Google Maps, routing our stops to avoid outside activities after the anticipated mid-day arrival of rain. In the light of dawn, it was quickly apparent that we would have to once again move to Plan B. Heavy, pea soup fog blanketed Town Creek. We couldn't even make out the surface of the water across the dock. We slowed our morning activities -- more time for reading and catching up on news/sports -- hoping the fog would burn off. By 9:00 there was slight improvement, but not enough. Time to do some stretching and exercises, then get a shower. (Note: The piling did not sink. The floating dock rose on the piling as the tide came in.) By 11:00 visibility had improved, but we eagerly delayed our travels for another reason. Our frame contractor, Eric, came by to go over plans, materials, and scheduling. With everyone on the same page, supplies will be ordered for delivery late next week. Afterwards we were feeling a little better knowing that repairs were progressing. The heavy cloud cover prevented the temperature from rising. We grabbed those freshly delivered heavy coats and went outside to get a few chores done before the rain began.

We removed the name boards from atop the pilot house and will let them dry in preparation for refinishing. Barry took care of some paperwork at the office as the rain began to fall. The rocking chair on the large covered porch was comfortable; the chill in the air not so much. Our Plan B was taken directly from the Aging Travelers' Playbook: we went to Walmart to stretch our legs. On the way back to the marina we stopped in at the Crystal Coast visitors center to pick up a few more travel brochures. Their scaled-down replica of the Cape Lookout Lighthouse was the most scenic thing we saw all day.

Rain continued for the remainder of the afternoon and the wind strengthened as well. We flipped through all the brochures before darkness settled over us. There were no bright colors tonight, just a gradual fade to black. It has been one week since "The Storm" altered our travel plans, but we're one week closer to being underway once again.  

Walking Tour of Historic Beaufort

Beaufort   

The sun also rises here in Beaufort, and today's was the best one yet. My morning view is a bit more obstructed than the evening's, but when the colors are both rich and high in the sky, a little foreground clutter is forgivable. The day quickly turned beautiful with warm sunshine, clear sky, and still water. We unloaded the replacement solar panel from Barry's Escape and secured it along with the other two behind our cockpit ladder. With that little project complete, it was time to walk back into the Historic District for our self-guided walking tour. 

Beaufort was settled by the British in 1709, but was first known as Fishtown (because of the fishing industry). It was later named Beaufort in honor of Henry Somerset, Duke of Beaufort. The Plan of Beaufort Towne, laid out in 1713, survives in a 12-block area which today is on the National Register of Historic Places. Our first stop was at the welcome center to pick up printed maps. The tour began literally out the door in the two-acre Beaufort Historic Site. The Old Jail (c. 1829) has 28-inch walls and was in use until 1954. The jailer and his family lived inside alongside the prisoners. The Carteret County Courthouse (c. 1796) is the oldest wood-frame courthouse in North Carolina. The brilliant colors of the afternoon, offered hints of April instead of January. The Apothecary & Doctor's Office (c. 1859) was said to be essentially unchanged in appearance over the years. Approximately 150 buildings have historic markers. We turned the corner and came to our destination. The Old Burying Ground is the top attaction. Barry opened up the map and we entered.

Twenty-eight gravesites were highlighted on the tour with short stories. What strikes me as most interesting about old cemeteries is the intricacies of the grave markers. All of the elaborate carvings and inscriptions were done by hand. Even if they were to be produced with today's technology, these memorials would still be impressive. One of the tour markers was not accompanied by a gravestone. The Crissie Wright Common Grave is the final resting place for the sailors who froze to death after the wreck of the Crissie Wright in January 1886. By far, the most "famous" gravesite is that of the "Girl in Barrel of Rum." A girl and her father were traveling back from London in the 1700s when the girl passed. Refusing to bury her at sea, the father bought an entire keg of rum and stored her body inside. When they arrived home, the girl was not removed from the keg, but the keg was buried with her still inside. To this day, folks make an odd pilgrimage to the gravesite to leave momentos in her honor.

Done with the cemetery, we walked up and down the gridwork of streets. Purvis Chapel (c. 1820) is Beaufort's oldest church in continuous use. The First Baptist Church steeple towered above all other buildings. Before long, we were back to Front Street and the waterfront. Our faces attempted to reflect the warmth of the afternoon. The face on the pansy did a much better job. Our final destination of the day was one I learned of on the Roadside America app. We had walked by this spot dozens of times and eaten at Clawson's several times without realizing there was a memorial marker right under our nose. The stone monument is placed in memory of Beaufort native Michael Smith who lost his life on January 28, 1986 when the space shuttle Challenger exploded. He was the pilot and his voice was the last one heard on the shuttle voice recorder, saying, "Uh-oh." And, yes, I remember where I was when that happened. In my First Year at UVA, I was at work downstairs in the Sports Information Office when the news came across the radio.  

Tonight's sunset was another good one. We did not hear from the contractors today, but hope that was due to the Martin Luther King, Jr. holiday. All being equal though, today's no-jacket-required day in Beaufort was supremely superior to the blanket of white that covered our house in Richmond.