Time Travel

Beaufort   

It was a day for travel and exploration. When we realized we would use Beaufort as a home base for much longer than anticipated, Barry and I each made a list of places we'd like to visit. I then strung the stops together into a route that made sense for a day trip. Our first outing was today. We departed Crossroads at 8:00 under a heavy cloud cover that made it seem much earlier than it was. We headed south to a favorite spot from my past: Atlantic Towers in Carolina Beach. It was the site of the First and Last Annual Nieces and Nephews Beach Trip and of one of our family's favorite photos. I took the original photo back in 1985 and therefore was not in it. The time was now for me to recreate the scene. The ocean was mild-mannered this morning. I doubt one of today's small waves could have flipped someone's (not mine) blow-up float as it happened 39 years ago.

We continued south and stopped at Fort Fisher which was built to keep the port of Wilmington open to blockade-runners supplying the Confederate army during the Civil War. The first thing we noticed was the construction of a beautiful new visitors center that should be ready this summer. The real star of the show, however, was the earthworks. Fort Fisher was made of earth and sand, ideal for absorbing the shock of heavy explosives. The windswept crooked branches of the live oaks tell the story of Mother Nature's assault. Today only a few mounds remain as much of the fort has been eroded by the ocean. Our guide pointed out how the fort was captured by Union forces on January 15, 1865, and asked us to consider the weather during that time. The most imposing cannon was the large Armstrong mounted midway along the fort's sea face. It could accurately hurl a 150-pound shell a distance of up to five miles. Problem was, the Confederacy did not have enough shells and it was rarely fired during the final conflict. Across the street was the Fort Fisher Monument, erected in 1921. We spent more time than planned at the fort, but in no way came close to seeing everything. We had to get moving to make one of Barry's picks.  

He wanted to take a ride on a vehicle ferry. We pulled into the queue line at the Fort Fisher Ferry just as the inbound ship was arriving. When it was our turn, we drove onto the boat and took our spot. Soon we were crossing the Cape Fear River which was anything but ferocious today. We sat in the warmth of the Escape and watched as familiar landmarks passed by. Thirty-eight minutes later we were in Southport.

Off we drove and headed to a favorite BBQ place we've visited before. The red slaw was much anticipated by me and definitely brings thoughts of home cookin'. After lunch we drove into Wilmington to tour the Battleship North Carolina (BB-55). The ship's keel was laid in October 1936 and it was commissioned on April 9, 1941. She was decommissioned in June 1947 and moved to Wilmington in October 1961. It has always been one of North Carolina's top attractions, but neither one of us had ever seen her.  

The North Carolina participated in every Major World War II naval offensive in the Pacific Theater and was the most decorated American battleship of that time. A crew of 2,300 served onboard. She was at that time considered the world's greatest sea weapon and embodied the finest engineering and technology available. As the pride of the US Navy's fleet, she was referred to as "Showboat." We went up and down ladders and decks. I was thankful for the yellow arrows leading me through. Without that guidance, I'd probably still be trying to find my way back to the visitor's center. Bits of old technology and nostalgia intrigued me the most. The Challenge cutter and mimeograph stencils in the print shop reminded me I'm no spring chicken. I used very similar pieces in my younger years. The Sir Walter Raleigh tobacco cans brought back memories of my dad. Sadly, the instructions for a proper onboard shower have not changed at all. This sign needs to be available in the gift shop for use in every boat. What color should the shells on the North Carolina be? Carolina Blue, of course. The ship carried almost 2 million gallons of fuel and averaged 166 gallons per mile. Looking at it another way, the 729-foot North Carolina moved 32 feet for every gallon burned. Our little trawler seems pretty fuel efficient in comparison, 

We finished up our tour with a stroll along the Memorial Walkway that encircles the ship. A lone heron waded in the mudflats. The cloud cover remained heavy all day. As the sun set on our two hour drive back to Beaufort there was no color, just a subtle shading to black. Walking down the dock, Homer Smith Marina, located across Town Creek from Crossroads, glowed in the darkness.