Thursday, May 9, 2019

A Day with Friends

Day 354  | Charleston

I got to sleep in a bit this morning and it sure felt good. Once docked in Charleston, we had turned on the air conditioner, and put the black-out shades on our closed ports, turning our normally bright stateroom into a dark and chilly cave. Sleep came easily. We caught the 9:00 courtesy shuttle over to the Charleston Visitor's Center which is beautifully-renovated railroad depot. A large "Best Friend" medallion was laid into the entryway's concrete. Good thoughts made me smile and then wonder what the backstory was. It didn't take long to find out at the adjacent train museum. Best Friend was the moniker of the first commercially-built American steam locomotive. It made its inaugural trip on December 25, 1830 in Charleston. The replica in the museum was crafted from the original blueprints.


At 10:30 we loaded into a 20-passenger tour van and set off for Boone Hall. In an odd contrast to the grandeur of the estate, we were let out at a shed and checked out several different tractors, noting their evolution and differences. While Boone Hall Plantation is one of the nation's oldest working farms (over 300 years of continuous crop production), the Colonial-Revival house only dates back to 1936. A few wars and hurricanes had contributed to the demise of earlier structures. Our very large group was led through the downstairs and given a history briefing. The upstairs is maintained as private residence. Two large gardens flanked the front "driveway." The plantings included both vegetables and ornamental flowers. Snapdragons, phlox, tulips, delphinium, and roses were all in bloom. A little honeybee enjoyed a bright red poppy.


A newer tractor pulled two open-air wagons on a tour of some of the 750 active farming acres. The original money-makers were cotton, cattle, and pecans, along with a brick foundry. Today there are peach, blueberry, and muscadine orchards along with honeybee hives. Plantings of strawberries, tomatoes, eggplant, corn, and pumpkins are also farmed. (Yes, I slipped several times during the day and misused the name Boone's Farm. I did not see any strawberry hill wine in the gift shop.)

A Jeffersonian-style serpentine wall serves as the outer boundary of the plantation house grounds. Such walls are prominent features of the Pavilion Gardens bordering the Lawn at UVA. The design is super strong and stable, but requires minimal building materials. Beyond the wall, were eight small slave cabins. Built from the byproducts of a brick foundry, these quarters are quite different from those on other plantations of the time. Each of the cabins had been set up with a different exhibit on life and times. This well-staged cabin focused on spiritual life.


In another cabin, a pleasant lady was working on sweetgrass baskets. In addition to sweetgrass, black rush, palm leaves, and longleaf pine needles are also used for contrasting color and texture. The raw materials are harvested from the nearby wetlands then laid out in the sun to dry. The master weaver then coils the grass and fashions all sorts of baskets, trays, and trivets. The end of Slave Street led to the main driveway and a closer look at the live oaks and paddocks where several horses grazed under the mid-afternoon sun. Boone Hall has nice stable facilities and claims the distinction of raising Secretariat's grandfather way back when.


Then, finally, I was in a position to get a shot of the view that brought me to Boone Hall -- The Avenue of Oaks. Back in 1743, 88 live oak trees were planted evenly along both sides the 3/4-mile access road to the plantation house. Over the past 250 years, the massive moss-draped branches have continued to spread and their canopies now meet and intertwine overhead. Images similar to this one are seen all over the Lowcountry. Boone Hall has served as the setting for many movies and is a favorite wedding venue. We soon loaded back onto the bus and returned to downtown Charleston.


We walked back to the marina and quickly showered. The highlight of our day was soon to begin. Chris and Roger (Miss Utah) crossed their wake in Charleston last Saturday and it worked out perfectly that we could meet up one more time before we continue further north and they head home to Missouri. They graciously picked us up and took us across the Ashley River to James Island. Located along Wappoo Creek is McLeod Plantation. The Georgian mansion was built in 1858 and is now owned by the Charleston Parks and Recreation. On Thursday evenings, an event of music, food, and beverages called Hops & Vines takes place on the front yard in view of their own distinguished live oak. This particular tree is said to be over 600 years old. We arrived just before the official start time and were shooed out as the staff was removing the tables and chairs. In between, we just sat and chatted and enjoyed a beautiful evening. Our time together was not long enough. I look forward to our next visit later this summer to hear all about the newest grandbaby and discuss our future cruising plans. Special times with special friends.



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