Saturday, May 25, 2019

Sweet Time in Onancock

Day 370  |  Onancock  

A perfect temperature and light breeze made for a great early morning retreat to the flybridge. There was minimal traffic on Onacock Creek and the only sounds came from the birds in the trees and the gentle lapping of waves against the shore. By 10:00 the dinghy was down and we were off to town. The town marina has been redone since our last visit here two years ago. Gone are the very short and rickety finger pier docks. In their place are longer floating docks. We tied up at the new dinghy dock and headed at the wharf where Barry visited with the dockmaster and I hung out on the Liar's Bench. There were no stories to be told at this point of the day. Mallard's and several other business had the stars and stripes flying for Memorial Day.


We started our walking tour along King Street and were pleasantly surprised to see fresh redevelopment, including a new Italian Restaurant. We also took time to stop and visit with the locals. The road just happened to lead to the Corner Bakery ... sweet. This is a local institution that is also home to Poppin' Fresh. The line extended to the door with locals purchasing dozens of pastries at a time. At one point we wondered if there would be any left. We enjoyed a donut before continuing our walking tour next door at the farmer's market. The seafood salad was tempting, but without a way to keep it chilled, we left empty-handed.


Onancock has a rich history that dates back to 1680. We have always enjoyed walking through the antique store and did so again today. The historic Cokesbury Church and Market Street Methodist Church are joined by Ker Place and many stately older houses on Market Street.


We ventured off the main drag and walked down side streets lined with fragrant honeysuckle. Tender corn sprouted in a large field. Our trek led back to the small park in front of the dinghy dock. We hopped back in and continued with a water tour. Along one branch of the creek are the support facilities for the crabbers.


The gravel barge Rappahannock sat empty along its dock awaiting a barge to come and take it away. As we have experienced on previous trips here, the barge comes and goes in the dark of the night. Interesting trees lined the shoreline. This one was seemingly dead until a closer look reveals one fully-leafed branch growing out of the top. As we returned to Crossroads we got a good look at our ICW "Mustache." The brown stain on our lower bow is a result of the many miles spent in the tannin-rich and muddy waters of the ICW. It is both a badge of honor and an eyesore and will be removed with the help of some elbow grease when the boat is hauled later this summer. A few late-afternoon hours were spent reading on Fiberglass Beach and watching the boats come into the marina. We recognized a few and Barry went out visiting for a while before dinner and another dramatic close to the day.

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