A Rainbow Connection

Day 345  |  Hope Town to Marsh Harbour  |  1.9 Hours  |  8 Miles

Our goal was to get underway at 10:00 which had both my mind and body moving in slow motion despite being up at dawn. The heavily overcast sky was gloomy enough, then it began to rain. Hard. We were sitting in the salon when I looked out the back window and shouted, "Rainbow." It started out with deep, vivid colors and stayed that way for a good 15 minutes. That was plenty of time for us to grab two cameras and two phones and start snapping away. Its amazing how four different devices can capture a scene so differently. The rainbow was huge and then developed a fainter second arc to the top. If you look closely at the first photos, the rainbow was so close to us that it actually dropped into the water, way forward of the horizon.

The shot below, taken on my iPhone, was later voted best in show. The white clouds and dark blue sky drew extra points from "the lovers, the dreamers, and me." 

Following the excitement, we pulled up the anchor and made the short trip over to Marsh Harbour. The anchorage was filling up fast and after we drove around for a while and even dropped the hook in a less than optimal spot, a large sailboat pulled out and we pulled right into their space. Just like being at the mall. We dropped the dinghy and explored the anchorage, stopping to visit with a few boats before heading over to the dinghy dock. We walked north through town, stopping at a gift shop, and checking out a local print shop to see if they had a "Help Wanted" sign in the window. We stopped by a marina along the way to see if Jeff and Terri were back aboard Change of Pace. They weren't so we went to Mangoes for a beverage and watched boats come and go. It was a sunny and warm day on the patio. A quick stop by the almost-American sized grocery store followed. I finally found a large container of strawberry yogurt which has been on my shopping list for months now. I was excited to snatch it up. While in the grocery, it began to rain -- just heavy enough to be annoying. By the time we walked to the dinghy and made our way back to Crossroads, we were wet, but the sun had returned. I sat up on the flybridge and turned a few more pages in my book while watching the anchorage full of sailboats and remembering the days aboard Laughing Place. She was a wonderful boat for cruising the Chesapeake, but there is no way we would have begun this Great Loop journey without the extra benefits now found on Crossroads.

The wind is picking up and tomorrow is supposed to be very breezy. We'll stay in Marsh Harbour and take advantage of some of their "big-city" services by visiting the BTC office (phone) and the hardware store.

A View from the Top

Day 344  |  Hope Town

We couldn't leave Hope Town without visiting the Elbow Reef Lightstation. We arrived at their dinghy dock right at 9:00 as it opened. The iconic symbol of the Abacos is a hand-wound kerosene light and is the only manned light left in the Bahamas. It is 89 feet tall with 101 steps leading up the spiral staircase to the lantern room. There are tons of interesting facts that should be recited here: first-order Fresnel lens, the lens and turning mechanisms are original equipment dating back to the early 1900s, a hand pump is used to pressurize the kerosene, the entire lens floats in 1200 pounds of mercury, the weights have to be wound every two hours. I could go on, but they are listed on the lighthouse society's website.  The steps up to the top were wooden and well-worn. The view from the windows were incredible.

Once to the top, access to the exterior walk was through a tiny "dog door." The handle to push the heavy steel door open was a most interesting clenched hand. We took in the views from all directions, spotting Crossroads at anchor all by herself, and then looking at the well-populated mooring field in Hope Town Harbour. Dark clouds were rolling in despite the fact that our weather reports called for no rain.    

Before finishing up on the tower we got the "we were here" selfie and a few more photos of the Sea of Abaco. Back inside we examined the Fresnel lens, kerosene tanks, and winding weights on our way down. We were disappointed that the gift shop was not open and headed back to the dinghy ... as it began to rain.

A good shower followed us across the harbour, but had pretty much stopped by the time we got tied up to the same dock we used yesterday. We followed the road north along Queen's Highway to a few businesses we had identified yesterday. Hope Town was founded in 1785 by Loyalists escaping the American Revolution. This marker identifies their reported landing point. The overcast sky and rain made the colorful flowers even more vibrant. We stopped in the Historical Museum and a few gift shops before finishing up at the grocery store. It was well-stocked and we were able to check off all the items on our list -- milk bread, lettuce, tomatoes, cheese -- plus a few other things like fresh Bahamian bread (yum).

We loaded our groceries into the dinghy and arrived back at Crossroads just after noon. While having lunch, we heard thunder in the distance and then it began to rain. After much discussion we scrapped our plans to head to Man-O-War Cay this afternoon and decided to stay put. After a few hours, the sun came out for a while, casting a small rainbow against the heavy and dramatic cloud cover. We put the dinghy back on the upper deck for the night. By sunset, the clouds and showers had returned. Tonight's treat was a nice orange sunset to the west and, simultaneously, another arching rainbow to the east.

We will pull up anchor tomorrow morning and head to Marsh Harbour. We have a few more places we want to visit before staging for our cross back to the States. Our two months in the Bahamas have flown by. We have seen and learned so much, but there is even more of both yet to do.

A Sunday Stroll Through Hope Town

Day 343  |  Hope Town

Our little corner of the Sea of Abaco was nice and calm this morning making for a smooth and dry dinghy ride into Hope Town Harbour. We first toured the perimeter and got a good look at the lighthouse, colorful rental properties, and large megayachts. We tied the dinghy up to a large town dock and set off on a walking tour.

Being Sunday, many museums, shops, and restaurants were closed. That was fine with us and we enjoyed walking the narrow and quiet streets. There were old houses and new houses, but all were surrounded by blooming flowers and white fences. The street lamp posts are painted to mimic the striping of the lighthouse. Some of the white picket fences were the hanging spots for words of wisdom signage.

We came across a basketball court with top-quality goals and a ball ready to go. I had to take a few minutes and shoot around. As I was having fun, Barry found a plaque saying the court had just been dedicated in December 2018. We continued our stroll north and walked up and down several streets that led back to the water. A small garden of cotton plants stood out as unique while the common bougainvillea continues to impress.

On the way back to the center of town, I was drawn to the organ music at St. James Methodist Church. Whoever was playing was very talented and I climbed up the steps and enjoyed listening to a familiar Easter hymn. We ducked in for lunch at Harbour's Edge and sat along the water watching boats of all shapes and sizes come and go. Fueled up on a great spinach salad (me) and a grouper sandwich (Barry) we continued north on our walking tour. It seems everyone who stays at a cottage puts their hometown on a pole out front. We passed a half dozen or more collections, but this one caught our eye. First it had Penn State -- not really a shock since its alumni base huge. On the same sign, however, was the small town of Salisbury, NC. Who would have believed that the home of Catawba College would jump out here in Hope Town? I immediately texted the photo to Rebekah, an incoming member of the Catawba Class of 2023.

Our ultimate destination was On Da Beach at Turtle Hill. We took a seat overlooking the beach and enjoyed a beverage before taking a short stroll along the surf. We returned to Crossroads and had a few hours to relax before dark. I have finally passed the half-way point (440 pages) of my latest book. It is moving along quickly, but is about twice as long as I'm used to.
 

Weather permitting, we will head back into Hope Town tomorrow morning to climb the lighthouse, and then visit the museum and a few stores. We will then bring up the anchor and move a little further north. 

Mother Nature Wins This Round

Day 342  |  Tilloo Cay to Hope Town  |  .5 Hours  |  2 Miles

A very impressive thunderstorm woke us up at 5:00 this morning. It had everything -- thunder, lightning, heavy rain, and gusty winds -- and lasted for half an hour. The wind clocked around 180 degrees and we were peering out our ports to make sure all the boats were spinning evenly. We have utmost confidence in the holding power of our anchor, but our little anchorage off of Tahiti Beach was full of chartered catamarans and we were unsure of others' anchoring abilities. Convinced all was OK, we did manage to doze back off while listening to the soothing sound of rain falling on the deck.

The clouds moved out and the morning sun cast an interesting light on the anchorage. Blues and greens flowed together like a watercolor painting. Low tide was at 9:50 and we had to wait for a rising tide to move north. We did a few boat chores and watched the water level fall. The large rock/small island seemed to be hovering over the water as the sea level dropped beneath its eroded ledges. Finally at 11:00 we pulled up anchor and moved two miles to an anchorage just south of the entrance to Hope Town. As luck would have it, the wind was gusting 25-30 knots and stirring up a brisk chop when we arrived.

We elected to not pull the dinghy down and just take it easy for the afternoon. We turned on the generator and concurrently made water and did a load of laundry. I took my chair to Fiberglass Beach and read for a few hours while enjoying the spectacular view of the Hope Town Lighthouse. Texts and phone calls were mixed in to keep things interesting. Congratulations to Aunt B, who upgraded to her very first smart phone today. It was great fun to be part of her initial FaceTime chat. I look forward to many more.

By the time the sun set, the wind had calmed down and clocked around to the east. We should have good weather to go into Hope Town tomorrow for our initial exploration. Many places, including the lighthouse, are closed on Sunday, so we'll go back in on Monday morning as well to make sure we see as much as possible before moving along.

Tan Your Toes in the Abacos

Day 341  |  Tahiti Beach

We were heading to Tahiti Beach by 7:00 this morning on our mission to enjoy the pristine sands of our own private paradise at low tide. Our timing was perfect and we walked the sandbar encountering only a few birds. Their tracks and our's were the only impressions in the sand. It was a special experience to walk all the way to the sharp end of the sandbar where it dropped off into the dark blue water.

I found an immature conch in the surf and returned him to deeper water. This was a beautiful shell and if it had been unoccupied, I would have quickly added it to my collection. We walked for about an hour and finished up by getting the "money shot" with the crescent beach, clean sand, sweeping palms, and blue sky. We were back in the dinghy and pushing away from shore when I spotted another conch. I hopped into thigh-deep water to give it a quick inspection. It was also occupied and I gently returned it to its home in the sea grass. My weakness is that I believe all these creatures are in a touch tank. I just want to take a closer look.

We spent most of the rest of the morning trying to plan our final stretch of days here in the Abacos. The weather forecast is calling for unsettled weather, but we want to see as much as we can without sitting out long delays. We made the decision to stay put today since our anchor was holding so well, but take the dinghy north to White Sound for lunch. Mother Nature had other plans as the sky darkened and rain fell hard for nearly an hour. We ended up having lunch onboard and waiting out the rain delay. When the clouds moved out, Barry bailed the water from the dinghy and we were back on track and leaving the mothership. This building has been off our port side and I have admired it since our arrival.

This house wasn't bad either. When pulled into the White Sound basin, we immediately noticed several boats still lying victim to previous storms. This area has been hit hard by several recent hurricanes. At the southern end of White Sound is Sea Spray marina, home to many large boats. Several were coming and going as we were tooling around so we decided it was best for us to get out of their way and head to the north side.

On the point, construction is underway on Sunset Resort. These new houses sit precariously close to the water ... and are very vulnerable to any substantial wave activity. We continued around the corner to the Abaco Inn where we tied up to their dock and walked in to the beachside bar. This place has the best collection of slogans and names so far: a Tan Your Toes in the Abacos tagline and The Fin and Tonic bar. We both enjoyed conducting more frozen drink research.

Across the bar, this hand-carved door caught my eye. The view from our table was of the pool and Atlantic beach. The waves were active today and two surfers made their way into the water to take advantage of the large waves. We made a bumpy and wet return to Crossroads against the waves and put the dinghy on the upper deck. We have seen everything on this stop and will move further north as weather permits. Heavy cloud cover yielded an unexpectedly bright pink sunset to close the day.

Tahiti Beach Bar Hopping

Day 340  |  Tilloo Cay to Tahiti Beach  |  .6 Hours  |  3 Miles

Morning broke in vivid color over our anchorage in off of Tilloo Cay. There was an early low tide so we had to delay our departure until 10:00 to ride a rising tide around Tavern Cay and up to Tahiti Beach. Our path north took us by nice structures. Google Maps was no help in identifying the blue roofed building as resort or personal. Either way, it looked new and well-built. Our Explorer Chart aptly called the next structure "turret." We eased our way through some skinny water and traveled along the easter shore of Lubbers Quarters before turning east just past Baker's Rock at the southern end of Elbow Cay. The view of Tahiti Beach was post-card perfect as we pulled in close to drop our anchor.

Knowing we were on a rising tide, we got the dinghy down quickly so that we could explore the beach before high tide covered it up. The water was swimming pool clear where we hopped out. Barry set our anchor and we walked around the beach, marveling first at all of the palm trees. As we walked out along Tilloo Cut we passed through an interesting maze of tree trunks. The multiple curves and long-reaching horizontal branches were like nothing I've ever seen. By the time we reached the end of the beach, it had been turned into a mere sandbar. And speaking of bars, this "food barge" was towed to the beach and set up shop. This took us by surprise and suddenly changed the whole feel of this quiet beach. It was approaching noon and the boats started coming in.

We walked back to the dinghy and saw a few sea creatures along the way. The sea urchin and starfish were both high and dry on the beach. In some areas the sand had a pink tint. Through the clear water, not so much. Back in the dinghy we made a quick trip over to Lubbbers Quarters for lunch at Cracker P's. There were several boats already lined up, but we found a good spot in the middle by the ladder.

Their dock was lined with interesting signs and the always-popular directional tower. We took a table on the deck and enjoyed the scenery and watching the families around us. There were two spirited games of Connect Four going down on the table in front of us.

While waiting for lunch, we talked about the main difference (for us) between the Exumas and the Abacos. In the Exumas, it seemed like we were hopping from sandbar to sandbar continually finding beautiful beaches that surpassed previous great finds. Here in the Abacos it seems if we're just bar hopping. Most of the stops along the way are identified with a bar/restaurant. We've now hit both Pete's Pub and Cracker P's. There are several more "must visit spots" on the checklist before we reach our northernmost point. I definitely don't mind searching for the perfect rum-based drink, but I do miss the quiet crescent beaches where we walked for miles without seeing another person. When we returned to Tahiti Beach, the high tide had claimed almost the entire beach, but the boats and people were still gathered around the food barge. It made me think of how it looked just a few hours earlier. The sky had become cloudy, but I sat up my chair on Fiberglass Beach for a little reading and a little nap or two.

We plan to hit the beach early tomorrow morning to enjoy the sandbar at low tide then get in a bit more exploring before the predicted arrival of storms tomorrow afternoon. Truth is Crossroads needs a good wash and we could use a good down day.  

Floating with the Turtles

Day 339  |  Little Harbour to Tilloo Cay  |  2.2 Hours  |  11 Miles

It was moving day in the Abacos. We waved farewell to Flip Flop as they exited the Little Harbour mooring field early. There were a few more things we wanted to do before departing. We loaded into the dinghy and first went back to check out the cave. The water level and lighting were much better this morning. We tucked into the beach and took a good look around, but didn't go in. Maybe next time. We then headed over to Pete's Pub for one last visit. The bar staff was busy preparing the large batches of Blasters prior to opening. I resisted the urge to get one for the road and then asked if we could put our stickers up on the wall. We found two spots that were visible, yet protected from the weather. Maybe Crossroads will still be there for us and others to see in the future. We loaded the dinghy on the upper deck and then slipped the mooring ball and were on our way north. The private simulated lighthouse on Channel Cay marked the point were we had to start dodging the shallows of Tilloo Bank.

We made a stop along the way and anchored just outside the the entrance to Tilloo Pond. Following lunch we took a dinghy tour of the pond. Once near the mangroves, we turned off the outboard and paddled in a little closer. The water was crystal clear and the sea grass covering the bottom was very visible in five feet of water. We dropped the anchor and sat and watched the wildlife around us. Turtles were the stars of the show, and we saw numerous beaks poking out of the water. Other sightings included sea urchins, starfish, butterflies, birds ... and fish. There were a few lone fish swimming around in the water that were outdone by the school of fish that went flying in front of us.

We headed back to Crossroads and relocated less than two miles north to a more protected anchorage for the evening. Nice houses lined the shore, but all looked unoccupied and several had For Sale signs in front of them. Rain clouds moving over Great Abaco Island to the west so we stayed onboard for the evening. A little reading, a few chores, and making water passed a few hours until the sun set off our stern to complete another beautiful day in the Bahamas.

Little Harbour

Day 338  |  Little Harbour

Following a good night's sleep, we were up and moving early. I shared a final "bon voyage" text with Ti Amo as they departed Green Turtle Cay, crossing back to the States. By 8:30 they had lost cell service and were well on their way. We made some water and charged the batteries, then were ready to go exploring. The tide was rising as we came ashore, making today's ride on the swing much wetter than yesterday's. No worries, all wet clothes dry quickly. We began by walking around the grounds of Pete's Pub & Gallery. Most folks come for the Pub, but the art should not be missed. Large bronze sculptures are on display inside and out. All have been cast in the on-site foundry. It would have been great to get a tour and hear more of the history, but the foundry was closed today.

Our first destinations were north and we picked up the trail for the lighthouse ruins and beach. The old lighthouse sat up on the bluff and had definitely seen better days. Over a hundred years old, it was once operated by a husband and wife team who were Little Harbour's only inhabitants. One thing you can still tell is that the view from their windows was amazing. From there we continued to the beach and walked up to the Cut, watching the waves crash against the shore.

I was once again on the lookout for sea beans. Since finding my first one, I have had no luck and was beginning to doubt their existence. Almost done with our walk and back to the path, a huge one washed up in the surf, just a few feet in front of me. There had to be a bigger meaning behind its appearance. I excitedly scooped it up, brushed it off, and secured it in my pocket. We made our way back to Pete's Pub as lunch service began. We were joined by Melissa, Jeff, and Scout from Flip Flop who had had been exploring the southern trails. Pete's signature Blaster was a welcome refreshment as we awaited our meals. Further examination of the sea bean took place. It is at least twice the size of my first one.

The view of the mooring field was incredible. After lunch, Barry and I went south in search of the trail to Bookies Beach. We missed the trail entrance and saw a little more of nature than anticipated, but all was good. Interesting plants and animals could be found all around. The little lizard was in the trunk of the plant with the red flower.

Trailhead finally identified, we made our way to the ocean. Much of the beach access area is now private land. We speculated that this property may be owned by a relative of Dr. Seuss. Nicely done sign. Bookies Beach began with the typical rough "moon rock" shore, but then opened up to a clean, powdery sand. The sand was so soft that it was difficult to walk in. Each step sunk in three to four inches. I found several pieces of sea glass along the walk. Barry found two more coconuts and carried them back as a butterfly hovered over his head.

Back in the dinghy, we visited the caves on the west side of the mooring field. There was only a tiny fringe of beach so we didn't pull in and get out. We had heard that hundreds of bats lived inside and will take that to be true. I enjoyed the rock which appeared to be hovering over the water.

We gathered on Flip Flop for dinner. They had caught a mahi on the way from Spanish Wells and graciously offered to share. We brought salad and rice and enjoyed a few hours together. We will head different ways in the morning, but hope to see them again before we all cross back to the States.

On to The Abacos

Day 337  |  Spanish Wells to Little Harbour/Great Abaco  |  7.5 Hours  |  53 Miles

We bid farewell to Spanish Wells this morning following a wonderful week on the island. I hope its been apparent how much we've enjoyed spending time with extended family and walking around this beautiful town. Our exit through the harbor was a great final recap: the palm trees and lush landscape of the Yacht Haven, the large fishing boats along the wharf, the mangrove forests standing proudly in white sand at low tide, and the well-cared-for houses on every block.

On our trip earlier in the week to Harbour Island, we had plotted on our navigation software the course taken by the ferry and followed it this morning. We zigged by the Shipyard restaurant where we enjoyed a couple of meals. Then we zagged by Old Gun Marina where we entered the Devil's Backbone, escorted by a lone dolphin. We commented that this was the first dolphin we had seen in the Bahamas. While reviewing today's photos, a closer look at the dorsal fin shows teeth imprints and a fresh wound. This poor guy would have quite a story to tell. We made great time and had no problems navigating the upper section of the Devil's Backbone coral heads and rocks. We jumped out and set a course to Little Harbour in the Abacos. Flip Flop had left earlier in the morning to pick up fuel, had come around on a different route, and we were converging on the same waypoint.

Our passage through open water was uneventful. The swells were about six feet, but were far apart so we bobbed up and down and only had a few splashes over the bow. We knew we needed to arrive at Little Harbor a couple of hours before low tide in order to make it through the shallow channel entrance. The entrance to Little Harbour Cut was a little sporty with waves breaking around us and a good swell pushing us through. We finally just jumped on a wave and rode it through the opening. Once through the cut, the swells calmed down and I moved forward to prepare the lines to pick up the mooring ball. One obstacle remained -- clearing the sandbar guarding the entrance to the mooring field. It helps to have horsepower and a protected propeller and today we took advantage of both to power our way through the skinny water. Flip Flop, right behind us, benefitted from us plowing a path for them. I picked up the ball without drama and then we got the dinghy down and headed to shore.

We joined Melissa, Jeff, and Scout at Pete's Pub for beverages and a recap of our adventures. The bar is decorated with shirts and mementos from all over the world and I spotted a sticker from Green Top, a locally owned hunting/fishing megastore back home. Small world. We then met a couple and their cute little boy who were from the Montpelier area, also a stone's throw from home. Smaller world. They are now living in Greensboro where he coaches basketball in the same conference that my uncle coached in for many years. If we had kept talking, we may have discovered a common relative. It was, however, getting late so we'll never know. We took a quick walk over the dunes to look at the beach. The boardwalk went alongside a cool statue which we'll learn more about tomorrow. The view from the top was pretty impressive.

A quick beach selfie and some closer examination of the succulents growing on the rocks were all we had time today for before heading back to the dinghy. While we were ashore, the tide had come in a few inches, making the swings an inviting place to hang out. We returned to Crossroads as the sun was setting and casting a warm glow across the mooring field. We look forward to a full day here tomorrow.

Happy Easter

Day 336  |  Spanish Wells

I was surprised by a visit from the Easter Bunny this morning. Melissa from Flip Flop brought over a set of more appropriate "church clothes" for me. It was a most appreciated and generous gesture. I joined her and Jeff for the ride over to the People's Church for the 10:45 service. It was interesting to note the differences versus what I'm used to -- the biggest one was the day being referred to as Resurrection Sunday and not Easter Sunday. A very familiar part was one hymn. The words varied a bit, but there were only five verses. (That's a screen shot from the online video. I did not take a photo inside.) After the service and a quick change of clothes, we all (including Scout) headed to the Sandbar on Russell Island for brunch. It was a beautiful day here in the Bahamas.

Along our travels, we spotted more fruit trees. My identification skills are still poor, but we think the one on the left is a lime. We returned to the Yacht Haven at a falling tide and had quite a step down to get onboard. The full moon is driving a larger than normal tidal swing of about three feet. We spent the final hours of our final afternoon by the pool. As the sun began to set, it was time to return our borrowed buggy. On the drive, we passed this beautiful brick paver sidewalk that we have admired many times this week.

We had another great visit with Ross and Euleta and looked at photos coming into my phone from our shared North Carolina family. It was good to see everyone properly dressed and posed around my head. I still missed being there, but am very glad we have a new family photo to update all our frames. As luck had it, we passed by Papa's Scoops on the way back to the marina just as they opened at 7:00. Tonight's flavor was strawberry. Having learned from Day 1's waffle cone drip mess, we each got a small cup and enjoyed it on our final walk through Spanish Wells.

We have had such a great stay here and look forward to returning. Thanks again to Demetria, Euleta, and Ross for all the hospitality, friendly faces, and sharing your island. We will leave in the morning for the Abacos and begin the final chapter in our Bahamian adventure. 

A Stormy Day

Day 335  |  Spanish Wells

As I've found to be customary, the day before Easter was one of unsettled weather. Heavy rain fell on and off all day and we picked our spots to get off the boat and make a few last-chance stops in Spanish Wells. We continue to be very thankful for the use of Euleta and Ross's buggy. I'm sure we would have gotten rained on a few times today if we had walked to our destinations. Our first stop was the grocery store for another round of milk, lettuce, and turkey. We got everything in the refrigerator and waited for a heavy shower to pass before venturing out again. Destinations two and three were the fish market for some grouper and then to the Island Mart for some fresh-baked Bahamian bread. With our loaf and fish, we were all set for a feast. Back to Crossroads we went.

The bread was still warm out of the oven and smelled so good. It just begged to be enjoyed as a part of lunch. Then some more heavy rain fell. Our final trip out took us to a small shop where I wanted to pick up a souvenir T-shirt. In the parking lot I found a penny and immediately thanked my grandmother for the gift. Her presence is always a huge part of our Easter memories. With all errands checked off the list, we took the long way back to the marina as the sky and blue water began to brighten.

My family in North Carolina kept me up to date on all the traditional Easter activities. The texts, photos, and phone calls made not being there a little less painful. They had an adventurous day and everyone now has several new stories to share for years to come. By late afternoon I was getting cabin fever again so I made a few laps around the marina grounds on foot. We have been here several days, but I still spotted new and beautiful new things tucked away in spots I had not yet traveled. The double-bloom hibiscus and a pair of natural benches were the highlight of my travels.

We will enjoy Easter here and depart for the Abacos early Monday morning. I hope the bunny is good to everyone. 

A Good Friday

Day 334  |  Spanish Wells

Good Friday was just that in Spanish Wells. Our morning started with a visit to the home of Ross and Euleta (Deidre's and Demetria's parents). We shared lots of stories and laughs and caught up with all the happenings since I last saw them in North Carolina a year ago. I really enjoyed looking at all the family photos displayed in their living room and the custom 2019 calendar with so many great photos. Across from their house is a collection of fruit trees and we guessed as to what several of the varieties were. We felt pretty confident that these were plantains. Of all the islands we've visited this was the largest collection of personal agriculture that we've seen. We departed in the buggy they have graciously shared with us during our stay and headed over to the Anchor Snack Bar for lunch. This was a great find and we enjoyed the food and reading the collection of decor. Following lunch we continued around the the loop around the tip of the island to see Bandit's mooring field and the emerging sandbars at low tide.

The sea grass was exposed on the north shore beach just beyond the Shipyard restaurant. We stopped at the All Age School and chatted with Mr. Mullen who teaches woodcraft and runs a small gallery featuring the students' work. He was out front cutting patterns on a scroll saw as a student was working on her woodburning project. The streets were almost deserted as many of the business were closed for the holiday. There is a gorgeous collection of palm trees out in front of the Methodist church. We returned to the marina and met Jeff, Melissa, and Scout at the pool -- Flip Flop had pulled into the Yacht Haven as we were leaving in the morning. We spent a few hours chatting and catching up poolside before agreeing to continue the conversation over dinner. I was able to catch my family (including Deidre) in the congregation back home in North Carolina and listened to a few minutes of the prelude -- just enough to get feel of the Good Friday service. We had dinner on the patio and watched as the full moon rose over the Shipyard sign, signaling the end of a very good day.

A Family Reunion

Day 333  |  Spanish Wells/Russell Island

The weather has changed here in Spanish Wells with increasing cloud cover and stronger winds moving in. A shower rolled through around 9:00 this morning, giving all the plants at the marina a much-needed drink of water. Brightly colored flowers made for a beautiful walk around the pool. The highlight of the morning was meeting up with Demetria for a quick family reunion. Demetria is one of several folks on Spanish Wells that I consider to be extended family. She is the sister of my cousin-in-law Deidre and has graciously helped hook us up with her parents' buggy for a few days. She and her family were preparing to take their boat out for the holiday weekend, but gave us a quick update of plans to take a little home cooking back to Deidre.

While Demetria and Barry picked up the buggy, I arrived to get my haircut with Serena. She was booked all day since everyone wants a haircut before Easter, but squeezed me in with an early morning appointment. Tomorrow is a holiday and she (and much of the town) is closed. Following a few inches off the bottom, new ends, and a little shape and texture, I thanked her and we were off on some extended exploration. We crossed over the Higgs Bridge to Russell Island and drove the entire length, eventually stopping at Sandbar for lunch. We had a prime spot by the water and enjoyed our meal and the scenery. We planned our journey so that we would cross back over the bridge close to low tide. Immediately past the span we pulled into the public park and began walking along the beautiful white sand beach.

There was a strong ebb current pulling the water off the beach. The crystal clear water made for easy observation of sea grasses and coral heads. It was difficult to determine where the beach ended and the sandbar began. I walked out over a half mile and never had water over my knees.

I could have stayed out there all day, totally happy just soaking up the sun and the scenery. The cloud cover, however, was increasing and we still had two stops to make before returning to the marina. We made a quick visit to Food Fair and picked up a few heavier items that were better transported in the buggy. Our final stop was the local beverage store where we got friendly curbside service. We are very appreciative for the use of the buggy as it saved a lot of lugging and sweating. A little down time in the late afternoon provided me the opportunity to finish up another book by the pool.

Tomorrow is Good Friday and we are looking forward to a visit with Deidre and Demetria's parents in the morning. While many places will be closed, the beach and pool will both be on regular hours. Between those two venues, I'm sure we'll do just fine. My next book up is the biggest challenge yet at 864 pages. No better place to get started than here in Spanish Wells.