Now This Is More Like It

Day 315  | George Town to Lee Stocking Island/Williams Bay  |  3.8 Hours  |  24 Miles

After four days in George Town we were ready to move on this morning. I realize that many folks make Elizabeth Harbor their winter destination and spend months here, its just not for us. The town has several pros -- good grocery stores and restaurants -- but the cons are substantial with crowded streets and an anchorage that looks like a city skyline at night with hundreds of anchor lights illuminating the darkness. With a break in the wind we raised our anchor and headed north. Conch Cay Cut was a bit rougher than when we entered, but the rollers hitting us on the beam were short-lived. Turning north, it was a special treat to pass both Flip Flop and Felix along the way and catch up on their recent travels. We met Jeff and Melissa on Flip Flop a month ago in No Name Harbor and have enjoyed traveling with them in the Bahamas. Felix is a fellow Looper and we traveled down the inland rivers with Tom and Dorothy for several weeks back in September. Time passed quickly and before we knew it we were riding the swells into Rat Cay Cut. Once back in the protected Exuma Banks, the scenery sure improved. The brilliant blues of the water and the white sand beaches stretched inland to meet the vivid greens of the island vegetation.

We were both pleased to be back in the quiet beauty of the Bahamas. We settled into Williams Bay with 10 other boats and set out to explore the area. We took the dinghy ashore and followed a trail up and over the island to the Atlantic shore. The trail opened to a small beach bordered by massive rocks. We walked in the sand and then sat on the rocks and watched the waves roll in for a while. Today as we sat at 23 degrees of latitude, Barry was wearing his Drummond Island T-shirt (which he picked up in August) that brags about life at 45 degrees of latitude.

Our quiet was momentarily shattered as a boat loaded with passengers zipped through the anchorage and whipped up a nice wake. How many folks can you pack on a boat? We skirted the shoreline in the dinghy and checked out a few caves.

While heading back to Crossroads, I spotted another trail that led across the island. We pulled up on a beautiful beach with water as clear as a swimming pool. We made a quick trip across the dunes and through the sea grapes and palm trees. The trail ended at the top of a 30-foot drop off. While there was no visit to the surf line, the view of the blue water was memorable enough. From there we returned to Crossroads with me taking the helm of the dinghy. I landed us safely and then spent a few hours reading on Fiberglass Beach. The intimidating 700-page book has sucked me in and is almost done in just a few days of attention. The wind switch has been turned off and the anchorage is calm. We took advantage of those conditions to grill some fish on the upper deck before watching the sun set in brilliant orange off our stern.

I choose to believe tonight's color palette is a salute for the Final Four-bound UVA Cavaliers. I didn't get to watch last night's thriller since it was on TBS, but I listened intently to the radio broadcast and followed up this morning by searching out all the video clips I could find. Go Hoos! 

The View from the Top

Day 314  | George Town / Monument Beach 

We were thankful for the dramatic improvement in weather conditions this morning. We lowered the dinghy and set out early knowing that our to-do list was long. We went as far south as Sand Dollar Beach and began working our way back north in search of several trail heads. We walked through the surf for a while before taking off on the well-marked Art Trail across the island. We were thankful for the assist ropes that helped get us up and over the steep and rocky portions. Colorful pieces of art were tucked along the trail which led to this rocky ocean vista.

Our second path was the Treasure Trail. We saw no monetary treasure along the way, but did see a little crab scampering across the rocks in the surf. The beach was wide and scenic, but covered with wrack. There was initial excitement at the possibility of finding sea beans, but I did not find any. Maybe tomorrow.

The sun was out and the clear water glistened in the shallows. We stayed in the dinghy for a while and circled the perimeter of the protected basins. Back at the blue hole we ran into the couple from Alabama that we had met at Tropic of Cancer Beach and laughed at how we both went nowhere yesterday. We stopped at Chat N Chill and enjoyed a beverage on the beach as we checked out the destination sign. The resident cats had staked their claim to several of the picnic table tops and weren't interested in sharing. Truth is they weren't interested in much other than laying there. We made a quick stop at Honeymoon Beach then headed back to Crossroads for lunch. A visit to Monument Beach would start our afternoon. It was time to check out the structure we've been anchored in front of for a few days now.

This part of the island is criss-crossed with trails, giving us several options. Our first trek took us up a large sand dune to another stunning ocean overlook. No walking on the beach here -- we were 30-feet up on the ridge line. From there we headed to the monument. It is sometimes referred to as the Salt Beacon because it was used to guide cargo ships into Elizabeth Harbor on voyages to pick up salt. It is always good to see the mother ship sitting were we left her.

The view from the top was stunning, but the clouds were beginning to get thick on the horizon.

We finished up by heading north to Starfish Beach where we walked in the sand for a short time before heading back to Crossroads just before light showers began and the temperature dropped. Thinking that the heavy stuff wouldn't come down for a while, we went ahead and put the dinghy back up top in preparation for tomorrow's departure. As the sun set a heavy shower began to fall and we scrambled to close the ports and windows.  

Waiting Out a Weather Delay

Day 313  | George Town / Monument Beach 

Great plans were in store for today. We were prepared to start early, get the dinghy down and explore as much of the island as we could. We had printed out the trail maps and identified dinghy destinations. Mother Nature, however, had other ideas. The wind was still blowing steadily over 20 knots and the anchorage was choppy, adding to the degree of difficulty in deploying the dinghy. Add to that the occasional heavy showers and we decided to make it a slow morning and see how it looked in the afternoon. The sun would come out periodically and tease us, but then the rain would restart and the winds would rebuild up to 30 knots. There was not much activity in the anchorage. At 2:00, all the dinghies were still tied up to their respective mother ships. I jumped back into a lengthy new book and surprisingly knocked out close to 400 pages ... one chapter at a time. I anxiously awaited news from home of how the college scholarship interview went ("really well"). Our biggest excitement was when the mail boat exited behind us in the late afternoon. We'll give our plans another shot tomorrow.

Its All North From Here

Day 312  | George Town / Goat Cay to Monument Beach  |  .6 Hours  |  2 Miles

I woke up this morning disoriented as we were not pointing in the direction I expected. The predicted westerly winds never materialized overnight. The sunrise reset my compass and I figured out that we were pointing into a breezy northeast wind coming right down the middle of the harbor. We agreed that we would move across Elizabeth Harbor in the afternoon to a more protected spot. Our anchor was dug in deep and Crossroads would be just fine while we went exploring as planned. A short dinghy ride took us to the Palm Bay Beach Club dock where we had received permission to tie up for the day. We crossed the street and picked up our rental car -- a right-hand drive Nissan Blueberry Sylphy. Barry was up to the challenge of a day driving in the left lane. For him the biggest adjustment was learning that the windshield wiper and turn signal stalks were also reversed. At least our windows stayed clean as we headed down the the southernmost tip of the lone road. If like home, no one uses turn signals anyway. There wasn't much traffic, but as luck would have it, we met a loaded cement mixer on the rickety one-lane bridge leading from Great Exuma to Little Exuma. Abiding by the rule of gross-tonnage, we backed off and waited for him to pass.

A long stretch of "not much" took us down to Williams Town and our three planned destinations. First up was Santanna's for lunch. Barry and I split the lobster and grouper entrees while sitting under the covered picnic tables with an incredible view. The wind was blowing much harder down here and we kept one hand on our plate to keep it from taking flight. The same wind also had the sea whipped up. Waves were rolling up the shore to within a foot or two of the base of our deck. Once done with lunch, we scooted next door to Mom's Bakery. Two oven-loads of breads and cakes were freshly done. We picked up a piece of pineapple upside down cake to go.

Mission complete, we headed back north from the furthest point south on our Loop journey. We stopped at a boardwalk that led up to a single large pillar. We did not know what to expect, but this turned out to be a great find. This 30-foot tall marker is said to have been built in the early 1800s to guide ships to pick up salt harvested in the local salt ponds. There was a great view from atop the hill of both the ocean and the salt flats. We then made our way to the Tropic of Cancer Beach. It was difficult to find the turn-off for this beautiful location and we found it a bit depressing that two sets of locals told us to turn at the overflowing trash dumpster. The juxtaposition of nature's beauty and man's disregard for it, is one of the hardest things to rationalize here in the Bahamas. The natives were correct and we took our little Nissan "off-road," up and down, trying to avoid deep ravines. A small covered porch marks the spot where the Tropic of Cancer, at 23 degrees latitude, crosses the dunes. A crab weathervane stands alongside the steps down to the beach to continue the theme.

The view lived up to its hype. How can water be that shade of blue? We stopped to chat with a couple from Alabama that we'd seen early at the Palm Bay Beach Club and then also at Santanna's. We must have been following the same guide book. Before leaving we took each other's photos so at least they weren't blatant selfies. Concerned about our dinghy and Crossroads, we decided to head back. We made it as far north as the airport before calling it a day and returning the rental car. We made sure the dinghy was still in place and then stopped in at Palm Bay's Splash restaurant for a beverage. I had hoped to sit at the swinging bar (no bar stools, just swings suspended from the ceiling), but it was full. We found a spot on the patio and formulated our plan for getting the dinghy onboard and moving across the harbor. That all went as planned and we passed a couple of kite surfer's during our move. The wind picked up after we anchored off Monument Beach and I read in the pilothouse while trying to not to pay too much attention to all the boats sailing on anchor. The sun set and the wind picked up a bit more ahead of a 15-minute rain shower that sent us scrambling to close all the hatches, ports, and windows -- in that order.  

Our plan is to drop the dinghy once again in the morning and start exploring Stocking Island.  

Going to Town ... George Town That Is

Day 311  | Rudder Cay to George Town  |  5.3 Hours  |  34 Miles

We had a smooth pass through Rudder Cut to the "other side" of the Exumas chain. We could see how it could be treacherous with strong wind and waves. Our biggest question this morning was, "When does a rock become an island?" Up until this point we've been traveling in the waters of the Bahama Bank. With our exit through the cut we entered into the Exuma Sound and deeper water for our continued trip south. We joined in a parade of boats which included catamarans, monohull sailboats, trawlers, and this distinctive 83-foot wooden yacht. We had a smooth trip down to Conch Cay Cut which is the northern entrance to Elizabeth Harbor.

Today's cloud cover was heavier than we've seen in a long time and it continued to increase as we tucked in just south of Goat Cay for protection from the forecasted westerly winds. Almost as soon as the anchor bridle was secure, the clouds opened and a steady shower fell for half an hour. That was the perfect amount of time to formulate our plan for the afternoon. First up was a trip to the markets to replenish our supply milk, bread, fruits, and vegetables. We dropped the dinghy and headed into George Town proper on a mission. We were pleasantly surprised to find a prime spot on the dinghy dock. We both chuckled at the ad stapled to the town's welcome sign. A new supply of fresh produce was being unloaded at Exuma Markets so we gladly took a little walk to stretch out legs and give them time to unload. The directional sign was not very helpful -- too tall and print too small. Luckily we had the map on our phone that led us right to the Shop Rite. We picked up a few things and headed back to the first market. It seems the folks in George Town are constructing their own border wall to prevent boaters from coming ashore.

Between visits to two markets, we picked up all we needed and took our purchases back to the refrigerator on Crossroads. A short distance away was a highly recommended restaurant we were excited to check out. We dinghied back over to Shirley's and enjoyed an amazing meal. Mine included coconut crusted grouper, peas and rice, and coleslaw all washed down with a mango daiquiri. Barry had steamed red snapper, mac n cheese, and a salad. We returned home just as the sun began to set. A downfall of our west-protected anchorage is no sunset view. The clouds to the east provided a good show, however, as they glowed in shades of pink and orange to end the day.

The View from Under the Water

Day 310  | Black Point Settlement to Rudder Cay  |  3.1 Hours  |  18 Miles

Someone turned off the wind around 4:00 in the morning and by the time the sun burst through the orange clouds, the anchorage at Black Point was nice and flat. At 9:00 we raised the anchor, passed alongside Ti Amo for one final moist-eyed goodbye, and were on our way. At the southern end of Great Guana Cay stands the distinctive Sandcastle. As we passed by Galliot Cut we commented on how calm it was where the water of the Bahama Banks meet Bahama Sound.

Musha Cay is a private island owned by magician David Copperfield and is beautifully landscaped with plenty of palm trees. The water was skinny as we passed alongside Rudder Cay and the sandbars sat just below the surface and appeared as the lightest of blues. Our destination for the day was an anchorage just north of The Piano. We dropped the dinghy and set off to explore. Copperfield placed this statue of a mermaid resting on the bench of an actual-size baby grand piano as an underwater attraction. The current was pretty strong here, but each of us took turns hopping in and taking a look in 15 feet of water.

We zipped down and took a quick glance at Rudder Cay Cut which we'll be passing through in the morning on the way to George Town. Looking for a more relaxing experience we headed back north to a small cave carved out of the limestone. We pulled all the way in and admired the view out of the "skylight." The adjacent small beach was one of the prettiest we've seen thus far. The combination of crystal-clear water, white sand, and palm trees is hard to beat. We were initially happy just walking around, then we noticed there were fish in the water.

Thousands of small silver fish were gathered into two separate schools next to the rocky side of the cave. They were docile and we were able to swim right up to them. There were a dozen or so of these medium-sized fish swimming around and we respectfully ignored each other. We also spotted the neighborhood bully and gave him plenty of room while keeping one eye on him at all times.

In the end, it was plenty relaxing just to float in the shallows. Three o'clock came and it was time to get out of the water. We dinghied around the corner to check out another cave. This one was more dramatic with a large opening in the upper back wall. We were cleaned up and had the dinghy back up before the sun fell below the horizon.

The Gift of Just Another Day

Day 309  |  Black Point Settlement 

I called it a day by listening to the Virginia-Oklahoma game on the radio then spent a restless night thinking about the weather, our continued journey south, and our final round of goodbyes with Ti Amo. All worrying was for naught though as we woke up to more unsettled weather and decided to stay put. Feeling like we had been granted a "Free Play," Glenda and I made the most of one more day by just hanging out. At 10:00 she picked me up and went back into town. We "parked" at the Government Dock and dropped off some trash in the trailer before walking down the street. We passed several nice boats along the way. Family Regattas are serious competitions down here. A bit further down the street I couldn't resist calling out, "You're not Uncle Nat, you're a goat." A strange rustling in the scrub led us to the discovery of a rooster climbing a tree. We even spotted some new flowers that had eluded us on previous trips.

Our destination was Lorraine's Mom's house to pick up some fresh bread. When we visited with her yesterday, she told us she would make us some cinnamon raison bread to pick up this morning. What a surprise when we entered her kitchen and saw two dozen loaves of freshly baked bread (she also had white, coconut, and banana) spread out on her counter. Turns out that she gets up at 5:00 am and begins baking. She popped the warm loaves out of the pans and into bags for us. Such a pleasant lady and I look forward to visiting here again. As we left her house we stopped and admired the straw weaving on the front porch next to a rocking chair. Mrs. Lorraine's Mom (don't know her real name) explained that the band she was weaving will be made into bags for the straw market. She took her place in the rocking chair and demonstrated her technique while enjoying the sun and a nice breeze. Her graceful and nimble fingers moved effortlessly through the process. Simply amazing. Bread in hand we headed back to the dock and got to watch a few sharks, a pencil fish, and a large ray swim around before heading back to Ti Amo.

There Glenda and I spent a few hours just laughing, planning, and talking about stuff. Just another day. Barry worked on changing the oil in the dinghy's outboard and Greg took Jaxon to run around on the beach. One squall passed over us calling for a quick lowering of the enclosure panels, but it quickly passed and cleared off. Glenda shuttled me back to Crossroads and I got in a little reading from atop the flybridge before another squall chased me inside. The long, soaking rain is a most welcomed sight for the Bahamians who get much of their freshwater from rain stored in cisterns. The late afternoon sky cleared and the sun even peeked out for a while.

A final round of appys was held on Crossroads, complete with a toast to a very special friendship and the incredible way we have spent time together in the Exumas. After the gift of this unexpected day together, it was a little easier to get through the goodbyes and hugs before Greg, Glenda and Jaxon headed back to Ti Amo for the evening. Our just another day was capped off by just another great sunset.

Making Our Own Sunshine

Day 308  |  Black Point Settlement 

"Red sky in the morning, sailor's warning." The message in the sunrise held true for the day. The wind howled early in the morning and we piddled around while hoping the blow would not affect our plans for a final lunch with Ti Amo. Although the wind was strong, the anchorage was not exceptionally rough. The island was preventing the buildup of waves to more than a chop. Plans a go, we were going to make our own sunshine. We arrived via dinghies at the dock for Lorraine's Cafe and managed to stay pretty dry. We followed the signs -- Burma Shave style -- up to the restaurant.

Once we arrived at the front of the building, we grabbed a seat on the deck and enjoyed lobster wraps and a few rounds of beverages. It was weird not having Jaxon around for entertainment. He had remained onboard with his serving of kibble. Following our meal we walked down to the grocery store, which had just opened for the afternoon. The very nice lady apologized for her slim selection, saying that the supply boat won't be in until Tuesday. Glenda picked up a few items from her list. Along the short walk we passed groups of kids enjoying the cloudy afternoon, several roosters, a yard full of beautiful flowers, and the local gathering place for lively conversation. Although we never said THE word, we both knew very well that farewells would soon be in order. Its been an incredible time together.

A new sign caught our attention and we checked with Lorraine's mom to see if she had any cinnamon raison bread. We left empty-handed, but enjoyed our few minutes of conversation with her as she prepared Sunday dinner for her family. Back to the pier we went to meet the boys and head back home before the rain arrived. But first, one more group photo. The late afternoon was spent watching hoops and I was lucky to pick up both the Carolina and Duke games on CBS. The sky remained gray and a good shower finally materialized, providing a much needed boat wash.

We'll say our final goodbyes in the morning before Ti Amo heads north and we travel a short distance south. I'll then look forward to our next reunion at home in Deltaville. 

Picture Perfect Day

Day 307  | Sampson Cay to Black Point Settlement  |  1.9 Hours  |  11 Miles

As our time with Ti Amo comes to an end, we moved today to where it all started back on March 14 -- Black Point Settlement. This is a great spot with good protection from all easterlies, a great laundromat, trash disposal, a big sandy beach, and several restaurants. We departed Sampson Cay at 10:00 and followed Ti Amo one last time. The wind that we're seeking protection from as it builds overnight was perfect for Ti Amo to shut off their engine and enjoy a nice sail.

Beautiful blue water served as the anchorage's welcome mat. Following lunch, we got the dinghy down and headed to shore with a bag of trash and load of laundry. We met Glenda, Greg, and Jaxon at Ida's Rockside Laundry where there were several machines available and no waiting. We filled the washers and walked down the street to Emerald Sunset View to enjoy a few beverages on the patio, with one quick trip back to Ida's to move everything to the dryers. Laundry day is a pleasure with a view like this. Laundry done and back on Crossroads, I knocked out the last 30 pages of my latest book while soaking up some rays and the view from Fiberglass Beach. We gathered on Ti Amo for appys and a wonderful dinner of homemade pizza and salad. We had to cut conversation short as the darkness of night deepened. We had to get home and turn on our anchor light.

There are two kinds of "perfect days" in my book. The first is where I am so caught up in the experience that I cannot stop taking pictures. On those days, it takes a long time to whittle down the ones used in the day's blog entry. The second type of "perfect day" is like today. Where everything is natural, fun, and comfortable and I don't even think about taking pictures. Today I took four photos the entire day and they're all included here. These special times will just have to be remembered with special memories. 

A Quick Hop to Sampson Cay

Day 306  |  Thomas Cay/Pipe Creek to Sampson Cay  |  1.1 Hours  |  5 Miles

Our anchorage in Pipe Creek was gorgeous, but it was rolly in there last night. The wind funneled between the land masses and opposed a strong current creating a swirling cauldron that kept us active all night. As our track shows, there was a lot of moving and spinning going on. Neither us nor Ti Amo got much restful sleep and we all took it slow this morning with a goal of some early afternoon snorkeling. A little reading, some vacuuming, and defrosting the freezer were on the list. The conditions did not improve so we moved around the corner to the Sampson Cay anchorage in search of some protection from the wind. The view was still incredible upon our exit. Once anchored, we were able to chip the ice out of the freezer before it melted all over the floor. Oh, the little things that make my day. I went up to the flybridge and enjoyed the view. Ti Amo was anchored in front of us and a lone sea turtle hung out for hours beside us.

Unable to find a way to watch the UVA game, I went old school and listened to it on the radio. The Cavaliers had me worried, but finally snapped out of their funk to pull away comfortably in the end. The wind was still blowing and it was a little chilly in the shade. Sampson Cay is another privately-owned island. It started out as a resort, but owner John Malone turned it into his personal getaway in 2013. The rocky shore and large signs left no doubt about even thinking of coming ashore. On our way into the anchorage we passed Maerin, a sister 43-foot Selene. Barry went over and visited for a while as I finished listening to the ballgame. In a scene akin to family members texting each other while all gathered at the dinner table, Glenda and I made the most of being boat-bound and texted 100-feet across the anchorage about a wide variety of subjects and plans. Our week together is coming to an end. Fingers crossed that the weather cooperates for a few more great days.

Enjoying The Bubblebath

Day 305  |  Cambridge Cay to Thomas Cay/Pipe Creek  |  2 Hours  |  11 Miles

The full moon provided a little after-hours drama, first as it rose over one of our mega yacht neighbors and finally as it set this morning over the Cambridge Cay anchorage. We waited until high tide to depart this wonderful spot so that we could exit to the south. The large sandbar that we had visited several times was now underwater and only a tiny bit of island remained exposed. Ti Amo led the way on today's journey. Once out of the Exuma Cays Land Cay Land and Sea Park, we passed by Bravo Eugenia -- the massive spot on the horizon referenced in yesterday's post.

We had good depth coming into Pipe Creek and anchored just east of Thomas Cay. The dinghy came down and we were more than ready to hop in and go exploring. Once again, we were most thankful to have Greg and Glenda sharing some of their favorite spots with us. We exited our anchorage by traveling beside a stone lighthouse. Our first destination was the DECCA Station ruins. Impressive bollards greeted us as we beached our dinghies and hit the shore. Wildlife was plentiful -- lizards, butterflies, and snails -- along the trails.

The DECCA station was used to help locate and track planes and ships before the days of Loran and GPS. It became technologically obsolete and was abandoned. Just a few structures remain.

Our second stop was Rachel's Bubblebath at the north end of Compass Cay. This spot is where the waves from the Sound crash through an opening in the rock and wash westward across the cay. Where the waves dissipate is churned up like a large bubblebath. It was a nice hike across the island, some of it dry and some across a swift current, but well worth it. Glenda and I walked in across the rocky bottom and spent a few minutes enjoying this natural wavepool. Barry, Greg, and Jaxon did not venture in much above their knees. What a great stop.

Swinging northeast around the island, we ducked into Compass Cay Marina and said hello to Melissa, Jeff and Scout from Flip Flop. It is always great to reconnect and hear of others's adventures. With the tide low, our journey back to the anchorage had great scenery with the rise of sandbars. The crystal-clear water just sparkles. On the sandbars we found a few starfish and a healthy population of sea grass. Many of the Bahamian islands have been sold and are now private residences. Little Pipe Cay is one such island and has a beautiful house, landscaping, docks ... and plenty of signs asking cruisers to respect their privacy.

After dropping the boys off at home, Glenda and I went over to explore the sandbar that had emerged not far our boats. We were pleasantly surprised at what we saw: conch, little fish, and brightly colored coral heads.

There were several kinds of coral and I wish I knew more about what I saw. We all gathered aboard Crossroads for appetizers to close another great day together. The sunset was full of deep color that lingered long after the sun fell below the horizon.

Cambridge Cay Weather Watching

Day 304  |  Cambridge Cay  

Our anchorage/mooring field was quite active since last evening's post. A squall blew through around 10:30 last night with gusty winds and a little rain. I did not turn on the instruments in time to get a reading, but the whistling sound the wind made called me to action: check the windows, ports, hatches, dingy, and mooring bridle. All seemed good and the cell passed over us quick enough and yielded an overnight with only a light breeze. The wind picked up another time or two and there were sounds of thunder in the distance, but it was an otherwise comfortable evening. Later we learned of a boat that got its outboard tangled up in the mooring line. It was a mess. Barry slept through it all.

This morning the drama continued as boats moved out, moved around, and moved in. The large motor yacht beside us ran over their mooring ball, breaking it free. The next boat in line for the spot corralled the ball and delivered it to the park warden who was called in to assess the damages. With late nights, a chilly and overcast morning, and the prediction of morning showers, we took it slow. I read for a while up on the flybridge, taking a break between chapters to walk around Crossroads to try stretching my legs. At 1:30 we escaped and took the dingies to shore with Glenda, Greg, and Jaxon. We went back to the beach we visited yesterday morning for the nature walk. Today, however, we arrived at low tide and found very shallow water on our approach. We dropped our anchors and walked 50 yards through calf-deep water to the shore. It was a refreshing stroll. The little path took us to the rocky Atlantic shore, which looked stark and desolated. Folks had collected stone and coral to form a large peace sign on the shore. Dead trees littered the sand dune. The lack of sunshine left the water with a chilly gray color.

Looking closer, there were several well-preserved sea fans in the sand. Some still had their purple coloration. The Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park is a no-take zone, so they had to remain where I found them. The rocky shore had many coral heads and sea glass. We walked from one end of the beach to the other. All along the large Teacup rock formation dominated the horizon. We returned to Crossroads and Glenda shared with us some of her highlights of the southern Exumas, down to George Town. What a blessing it is to have her share Ti Amo's "playbook" of three years ... and do so in person. (I'm still pinching myself, making sure all this is real.) The sun peaked out late in the afternoon and the water returned to breathtaking hues of blue. The view and breeze from atop the flybridge were spectacular.

Far out on the horizon we spotted a VERY large vessel, anchored about two miles away. Barry checked the AIS information and found out it is Jerry Jones' brand new $250 million dollar yacht Bravo Eugenia. At 360 feet, it is longer than the field his Dallas Cowboys play on, and has two helipads. Also on the horizon were approaching storm clouds which served as our signal to get the dinghy back up top in preparation for our departure tomorrow morning. The storm cell slipped off to our south and we were spared once again. We did, however, get to view a bright, but short, section of a rainbow before the sun set.

Snorkeling in The Aquarium

Day 303  |  Cambridge Cay  

We were prepared to face a stormy day, but were pleasantly surprised that the much talked about front passed to the north of us. Internet reports from Bimini, Eleuthra, and the Abacos all told of rain and winds gusting up to 60 knots. Here it was another gorgeous day which started with a bit of a flourish. The mooring field at Cambridge Cay was full when we arrived yesterday, so we had anchored. We didn't mind being on the hook, but as the wind clocked around overnight, we found ourselves rotating closer than we cared for with a neighboring sailboat. Bright and early this morning, the boat in front of us dropped their ball and pulled out. We were able to quickly swoop in claim it for our own. Barely awake, still in sleeping clothes and no shoes, we removed the anchor bridle, raised the anchor, shook out the bowlines and strung them up as a mooring bridle, fed them over the anchor and around to the port door where I snagged the pendant and strung it up. It was a harrowing few minutes, but well worth the effort. We now have better spacing between us and other boats in the anchorage and no longer have to run the anchor monitor for possible dragging in the shifting current and wind.

At 9:30 our park host Bill led a group of cruisers on a tour of Cambridge Cay. He covered geological history, extinct indigenous (white pine) and invasive vegetation (casuarina and this cactus), and current day issues (over fishing and trash disposal). We followed a trail to the ocean where we the grasslands were stark and barren from wind exposure. The Teacup rock formation was just offshore. Also this morning, two large motor yachts came in and claimed the final large-ship mooring balls. It is amazing how big these guys are. Ti Amo, a 47-foot sailboat, looks tiny compared to the hulking 130-foot charter boat in front of her.

After lunch it was off to do some snorkeling with Greg and Glenda. Our first stop was the site of an airplane crash. I cautiously stayed in the dinghy as I had not gotten up enough nerve to jump in. (Actually jumping in doesn't phase me, its getting back in that creates the angst.) From the plane wreck, we moved north to The Aquarium, off of O'Brien's Cay. We secured the dinghies to a mooring and all hopped in. Yes, thanks to a little reassurance from my dear friend, I took the plunge. The clear water was 15-20 feet deep and full of colorful fish and coral. It was an unbelievable experience. Once Barry and I got back into our dinghy without too much drama, we were heading to Ti Amo to pick up Jaxon for a trip to the beach.

This was the same beach we visited yesterday, but somehow with just a few hours difference in the tide cycle, the sandbar looked completely different. Glenda and I walked out on the sand flats which were under only a few inches of water and extended far into the horizon. We spotted several live conch, many beautiful bright pink pieces of broken shells, and some little coral. The highlight was watching Jaxon play with two large and friendly Labradoodles. Up and down the beach he raced, having a great time. At the end he even began fetching and carrying around the large dogs' throw toy. A final visit and beverage aboard Ti Amo closed out another incredible day.

Comforts of Home

Day 302  |  Shroud Cay to Cambridge Cay  |  4.5 Hours  |  26 Miles

The weather is a changin' and everyone is talking about it and where best to ride out an unsettled Wednesday. Last night the air was still and humid. This morning we awoke to a fiery red sunrise. Ti Amo was perfectly silhouetted as I watched the painted sky from our pilothouse. The morning continued its show as we pulled out of the anchorage just before 7:30 in a golden glow. As time passed, the sky began to darken and we finally got a good rain to wash away some of our accumulated salt. The brief shower soon gave way to a bluer sky. As we made our way to Cambridge Cay, we circled around to the top of the private Bell Island. We were forewarned about a rock pile that would seem a bit too close, but that was where the deep water was. We were still a little freaked out be rocks just outside our door.

This is another picture perfect place with beautiful clear water, sandy beaches, rock formations, and vegetation all playing together in nature's symphony. The view out our back door is pretty good today. We anchored in Cambridge Cay which is part of the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park and were met by the harbor hosts aboard Sea Lark. We and Sea Lark just happen to share the same home port at Stingray Point Marina. Small world. Once checked in, we lowered the dinghy and went exploring. We all walked around a small island with many cairns along the way. Jaxon had fun sniffing all the rocks and running wildly up and down the large sand bar.

We arrived here close to low tide and the sand bar extended gracefully into the water. It will be interesting to see how much of that island is visible at high tide. Back to Crossroads we went to prepare for appys on the beach to be followed by dinner onboard. Our neighbor tonight is Alessandra, a 157-foot motor yacht available for charter for $150,000 per week ... plus expenses. Appys were well attended with dinghies lining the beach and people packed in tightly. We could have used a bigger beach.

Glenda and Greg returned to Ti Amo to pick up Jaxon then joined us for dinner as the sun set across the anchorage. We enjoyed a bit of home cookin' tonight as we shared chicken pie and Bahamian mac n cheese prepared by my cousin Deidre. To that we added our asparagus purchased in Staniel Cay and an apple crisp Glenda made. It was a feast and we all said goodnight on the verge of food comas. Our harbor hosts will be conducting a nature hike in the morning at 9:30 (weather permitting). We'll need to get out for a little exercise, but the meal was soooo good. The final shot comes courtesy of Greg who caught us last night at sunset in the Shroud Cay anchorage.

Sea Beans and Dinosaurs

Day 301  |  Big Major's Spot to Shroud Cay  |  4.5 Hours  |  30 Miles

The anchors were up just before 8:00 and we followed Ti Amo out of the anchorage at Big Major’s Spot and headed north. We entered the boundary of the Exumas Land and Sea Park and lost cell service as there are no cell phone towers within the park. Barry had a little mending to do, and repaired one the chafe guards on our anchor bridle while underway. I settled in up on the flybridge and enjoyed another pretty day. The seas were calm and a breeze on the beam just strong enough for Ti Amo to cruise along at a good clip on just their headsail. Such a pretty boat. I could, and did, watch it for hours. On days like this, I still miss Laughing Place. There was quite a bit of boat traffic today. Folks wanted to enjoy the day, but also position themselves smartly for an upcoming blow. Along the way, we passed Flip Flop as they headed south toward Warderick Wells. Our destination was Shroud Cay, and we knew we were getting close when we saw all of the megayachts lined up.

Following some lunch and a little rest, the tide had come in enough for all of us to load into our dinghies and explore the cut which runs through the mangroves to the ocean. We weaved our way east until we ran out of water then dropped our anchors and set out on foot across the sand bar to the ocean. 

Once more, the beauty that greeted us is indescribable. Glenda and I took off walking south in search of sea beans. I was very excited when I discovered one laying cleanly in the sand. It sure is good to get the first one in my pocket and I look forward to hunting for more along the ocean beaches.

We both were still grinning about the sea bean when Glenda looked down and pulled from the sand an even rarer find: a toy dinosaur. We probably could have spent a few more hours walking, talking, and watching Jaxon run around, but our afternoon sun was getting low in the sky, so we returned to the dinghies. The powder-soft sandbar was still waiting for us to cross its windblown surface, but it had gotten much smaller in our time on the beach. The tide had come in and the knee-deep water we crossed a few hours ago turned into slightly higher than thigh-deep water on the return trip. No worries, though. The water was crystal clear and warm. It was a pleasant walk.

On the trip into the mangroves I had spotted a lone sea turtle with its head positioned out of the water. On the way out Barry and I saw a huge ray gliding along the sandy bottom. We turned into a new channel, with a view equally as stunning as our first stop. A couple of turtles were spotted and we gave them a slow and quiet chase. Glenda pulled out her Go-Pro and I dipped my little camera underwater. I did catch a faint silhouette in my first attempt (squint and turn your head to recognize the turtle shape). Hopefully I’ll get a few more opportunities to improve. Back onboard, it was time for showers, putting the dinghy back on the top deck, and watching the sunset before dinner.