Walking Down Memory Lane

Beaufort  

I've always said February has 90 days. This year, we're (un)lucky enough to get 91. Today was leap day and as much as I'd like to leap down to The Bahamas, it is not in the cards as we remain tied to the dock here in Beaufort. The Countdown App on my phone keeps me updated on the passage of time. A little internet research on the history of leap day and leap year yielded some interesting facts. The earth takes 365.242190 days to orbit the sun, or 365 days 5 hours 48 minutes and 56 seconds. If we didn't account for this extra time, the seasons would begin to drift. After about 700 years our summers which we've come to expect in June, would begin to occur in December. With unfounded logic, I counter with if summer is in December, we wouldn't be trying to get south. We basically spent our bonus February day like many prior days by doing a few chores and trying to stay busy. We're running low on both boat projects and places to explore. Today I began working on my 2023 photo yearbook and placing my best 1,100 pictures from last year into the online layout. It was a difficult walk down memory lane as the Bahama blues dominated my favorite memories. One year ago today it was March 1 and we had already been in the islands for a month. We were back in George Town, Exuma for the second time awaiting a rendezvous with dear friends. I worked on the book for five hours until Barry came and rescued me. A transient sailboat had tied up across from us. We drove Julie and Andy into town and walked the Front Street loop before enjoying a nice dinner together. Time marches on, and tomorrow we will be glad to turn the page and see what March offers our way. 

An Easy Breezy Day

Beaufort  

Less than ideal weather kept us onboard all day. We were a bit tired from yesterday's long road trip, so we were fine with a few slow hours. Barry updated the software on all our navigation computers and instruments. I worked on a few computer projects and dusted (ugghh) the louvers on our closet doors. A breezy morning strengthened into a gusty afternoon under heavy cloud cover. What a joy to have a bimini that doesn't rattle and flutter. The sun found a small opening and offered some golden light on its descent. Rain will fall tonight along with the temperature. We'll see what tomorrow's bonus day of February brings. It looks like we'll be here through the weekend. 

Road Trip To The Capital

Beaufort  

We hit the road today and made our longest day trip yet as part of the Chicken Salad & Lemonade Tour. Just shy of a three-hour drive up the Neusse River Basin lies Raleigh, the capital of North Carolina. Most of our trip was through wide open spaces with only an occasional concentration of big box development. We found the names of independent business such as Big Larry's Cookers, Uzzell's Wild Game Processing, Hog Slat Equipment Rental, and Pappy's Army Navy Surplus interesting and made the miles pass quickly. Also interesting were the number of barbecue restaurants along the way. From locals such as King's, Wilber's, McCall's, and Adam's Roadside, to regional chains like Smithfield's, Cookout, and even Bojangles, all competed with their special recipe for the regional delicacy. Our overcast drive eventually turned into a rainy drive as we approached the east side of Raleigh. Fruit trees bloomed along the highway interchanges. Our destination was the North Carolina State Museum of Natural Sciences. From the moment we walked in the door we knew this was a special place. Skeletons of several whale species were suspended overhead. Living exhibits featured amphibians, reptiles, and birds. 

We continued to marvel at the extensive dioramas that represented every ecological niche and habitat possible. Every detail was covered from the foliage to the taxidermic animals placed throughout the scene. Other areas featured larger-than-life representations of insects. Also wandering the four floors of exhibits were multiple school groups. It was great to see their enthusiasm about the exhibits. After most of them filed out the door to get lunch, the place was a lot quieter. Barry and I took the opportunity to visit the interactive play area to see a live colony of honey bees. Their hive was contained behind clear panels in a large cabinet. A tube led outside and the bees were free to fly in and out as they desired. We did find the queen amongst all the worker bee. (She is the one with the orange dot on her head.) There was an entire room devoted to gemology. Of the garnet, amethyst, gold, and other specimens shown, I thought the 1,225 carat uncut crystal emerald was the best. It was found in Alexander County in 2011 and is one of only 10 emeralds over 1,000 carats ever found in North America. 

Dinosaurs were well represented in all shapes and sizes.

Our next destination was right across the walkway at the North Carolina Museum of History. Not unexpectedly, a replica of the Wright Flyer soared overhead in the foyer. An intricate maze covering the entire lower floor traced the state's history from early Spanish settlers and English colonization through recent times. The butter churn and spinning wheel caught my eye as being similar to those of my grandparents. As a life-long Virginian, I have many images ingrained in my mind of George Washington. I can definitely say this was not one of those images. Italian sculptor Antonio Canova chose to portray Washington as a Roman soldier-turned-statesman. The image became famous and appeared on objects ranging from dinner plates to money. I still prefer to think of him on horseback or in a boat crossing the Delaware River.

There were many displays covering North Carolina products and inventions. Pepsi was given a spot as well as the trio of home-grown headache powders. Speaking of heads, if there's a sign with a head hole, you know by now that we're going to take advantage of it. My favorite spot in this museum was the North Carolina Sports Hall of Fame on the second floor. Baseball, golf, football, stock car racing were very well represented. I could have stayed in the basketball section for hours, walking down memory lane with names like Bones McKinney, Kay Yow, Terry Holland, Mike Krzyzewski, Jim Valvano, and Dean Smith. It was good to see legendary UNC Coach Karen Shelton's commemorative national championship field hockey stick, a football representing Appalachian State's back-to-back-to-back national football championships, and trailblazing reporter Mary Garber's press pass (which stated that no women were admitted). Time was running short, so we had to get moving. The best part about these wonderful museums is that there is no admission fee.

Because it was raining, we did not go for a walk around the state capital grounds although they were right across the street. We did, however, still have two other stops to make on the way back to Beaufort. The first was to Pullen Park, which was the first public park in North Carolina and is the fifth oldest operating amusement park in the United States. A beautiful carved tree trunk stood at the entrance gate. The Dentzel Carousel, built in Germantown, PA, arrived in the park in 1921 and is complete with a Wurlitzer #125 band organ. Just outside the carousel building stood a statue of Andy and Opie form The Andy Griffith Show. Although their fishing poles were missing, it was still a wonderfully nostalgic piece of art -- much like the Bronze Fonz we found in Milwaukee while on the Great Loop. As we walked back to the Escape, I spotted a bed full of tulips enjoying the heavy shower. I love all these signs of spring.

Our final stop was at Historic Yates Mill. This water-powered gristmill served the residents of Wake County from colonial times through the early 1900s. Today, the mill is owned by NC State and is still operable. A short walking trail from the parking lot led past old grinding stones and alongside a busy highway. A sign asked that we not disturb the snakes. Not to worry, that would be the last thing on my list. It was a shame that the day was so dreary as this is one of the most picturesque places in the state. A sluice box diverts water from the mill pond to the water wheel. The remainder of the water spills over the dam and flows down the creek, eventually making its way to the Neusse River and then to the Atlantic. After a full day, we started back to Beaufort as the light of day faded and the showers continued. The weather in Beaufort will be nasty tomorrow with showers and predicted gusts of 45 mph. Those conditions will give our new bimini a good test. 

Today, We Conquered The Wind

Beaufort  

We were doubtful this morning when we stepped outside to check the weather. The wind was stronger than we had anticipated and we questioned whether or not our bimini top could be installed. We were so appreciative to see Hoke and his helper from Cape Lookout Canvas on the dock to make one final fitting. They returned to their shop with the hopes of completing the installation after lunch. Progress. We then turned our attention to our next challenge in the wind. Last night, the dreaded red light came on for our holding tank. We needed to get to the pump out dock and take care of business. Once again, we prevailed even with the wind adding a greater degree of difficulty to the process. That was two in the victory column for the Crossroads team this morning. At 1:30 the final canvas installation began. All went well and our new bimini top fit like a glove.  

The new heavyweight canvas was stitched with UV-resistant thread. It has a nice crown so that water will drain off of it, and drip edges to keep the area underneath drier. Velcro straps have been attached to prevent the edges from flapping (something for which our original bimini was notorious). A nice breeze made sure that everything was tested under semi-stressful conditions. We celebrated by returning to Island Grill for another great dinner, taking advantage once again of their Monday night BOGO entree special. After dinner we went back to our favorite beach access point and watched dusk settle over the dunes. The flags at the Atlantic Beach bridge were still flying stiff as we crossed the ICW to Morehead City.

The few last moments of color were savored as walked back to Crossroads. As Hoke left this afternoon, he asked us if we knew we were going to be stranded in the windiest place on the east coast. We all chuckled. We thank him for delivering a great product under trying conditions. We believe we are now put all back together. We have a final road trip scheduled for tomorrow, then will see how the weather pans out for a departure. From a look at the forecast, the wind will continue to build tomorrow and Wednesday will bring more excitement as the next front builds offshore. 

Veja Du, What Works For Me Might Work For You

Beaufort  

A quiet morning quickly became chaotic when Barry asked, "Do we have any mayo?" Although as a rule I avoid the stuff, he needed it to make his tuna salad for lunch. I checked my inventory sheet and sure enough it was in the starboard commissary cabinet. Soon thereafter, one paddle board, four crates, five bags, and several cases of drinks were removed from the below floor storage so that I could get into the commissary and open the cabinet doors. In the third lidded plastic bin was the elusive jar of Duke's. He was happy and made his lunch as I repacked the commissary with way more food than we will ever use on this trip. All of the special crackers, nuts, and hors d'oeuvres purchased for anticipated sundowners and appy hours have gone unused. Don't even ask how many cans of green beans are still down there. Once everything was stowed out of sight, it was definitely time for a walk.

We decided to try a new spot and stopped at the public access parking lot for Atlantic Beach. There were several cars in the lot, but it was not full. I can't imagine the line of cars circling and waiting for a spot to become available during the summer months. There were no dunes between the parking lot and the surf. We walked straight toward the water, passing an inactive lifeguard tower. Posts for several volleyball nets lined the sand. The net was up on one court and a group of guys were hitting the ball around in the bright sunshine. The beach was flat and broad. The tide was low and gentle waves broke far out on a sandbar and rippled up to where we walked. Little sandpipers flitted along clean virgin sand. I find it fascinating how some areas are covered with shells, and others have nary a trace. The occasional object in the sand brought additional excitement. A plastic lizard was easy to spot, as was a bivalve still safe from the birds in its closed shell. 

After picking up the lizard, a Jimmy Buffett song got stuck in my head. The chorus of Off to See the Lizard played on repeat: Deja deja deja vu / Believe it and it will come true / Veja veja veja du / What works for me might work for you. Most folks are familiar with deja vu alluding to the strange looking familiar. Veja du, in contrast, is looking at a familiar situation with fresh eyes as if you've never seen it before. Maybe that's why I enjoy beach walks so much. Most folks see it as the same stretch of sand, but I enjoy noticing subtle changes whether in the position of the tide on the sand, the small ripples as the waves' energy is finally depleted, or new sights in the wrack line. New today, were crab parts which we had not seen before.

I'll always be fascinated as to how a fragile open shell can land on the beach intact. Birds continue to grab my attention with their walks through the sea foam in search of a snack. Folks were out and about today, trying their best to transport themselves to the warmth of summer. Sitting on the beach bundled up in heavy coats and blankets is not ideal, but bonus points go to these folks for making the best of the day. I removed my jacket for close to a half hour and tried to soak up a few rays while the faded whiteness of my skin tried to reflect those same rays. The shadows grew longer across the sand and we headed back to Crossroads, passing the sign asking us to "visit us again soon." We will, and again will walk the sand with fresh eyes scanning the scene as if we'd never seen it before.

The sun now sets after 6:00 pm and is positioned under the bridge. These signs indicate both how long we've been here and that spring is coming. Fingers crossed we'll have our canvas finalized and installed by the end of day tomorrow. If/when we ever get to cast off from Beaufort, I'll put together a comparison of this nightly sunset view representing the very interesting passage of time.

Hitting The Trails

Beaufort  

What to do on this sunny day? We both agreed that we needed to get out and walk. Neither one of us wanted to retrace our many steps through the streets of downtown Beaufort. Barry is not fond of walking on the beach. Thankfully, it did not take me long to remember the nature trail at Fort Macon. We crossed the ICW onto Bogue Banks and drove through Atlantic Beach to the state park. The parking lot was almost full with other folks looking to enjoy a beautiful day outside with comfortable temperatures. The Elliott Coues Nature Trail is a 3.3-mile looping trail that passes through natural wetlands, dunes, and early growth maritime forests. A sign at the trailhead identified Coues as a physician and naturalist who was stationed at Fort Macon from 1869-70. During that time he wrote the classic Key to North American Birds. We set out on a well-defined path and shared it with a few other walkers, joggers, and mountain bikers. A mature canopy covered much of the trail. Songbirds called in the thick forest as woodpeckers provided the beat. Fresh green spring growth was limited, but the bright red berries on the Youpon Holly provided some color. The most prevalent trees were red cedar and massive live oaks with branches that extended in all directions.  

The trail was well marked and many different knowledge stations were positioned to identify common flora and fauna. We crossed Highway 58 and began our inbound route along the large dunes fronting the Atlantic ocean. Out in the open sunshine, the day warmed nicely and we shed our extra layers. This portion of the trail loop had much more traffic. Families with young kids and dogs entered the trail at the public beach access parking lot. We came upon a Yorkie sniffing things out and I had to stop and give him a few ear scratches. I have to keep my fingers limber and well-trained for when I eventually get to see my two favorite Yorkies. Soon we were back to the WWII gun emplacement we visited last week. The parking lot/finish line awaited a short distance through the dunes. We had finished our Fort Macon 5k. It felt really good to be outside and sweat a little. We visited the water fountain in the visitor center for a post-walk cooldown.

We drove back into Atlantic Beach and picked up a quick sandwich for lunch. At the edge of the shopping center parking lot was the Hoop Pole Creek Nature Preserve. Numerous signs flanked both sides of the trailhead. The general information sign told of how the 31-acre property was purchased by the North Carolina Coastal Federation in 1997 to save the site from proposed condominiums and a marina. It remains as one of the last undeveloped pieces of land in Atlantic Beach. Another sign touted the preserve as a Watershed Protection zone. The area is also part of both the NC Birding Trail and the NC Civil War Trails. In March of 1862, the Burnside Expedition was carried out as the Union army ferried troops and equipment from Carolina City, five miles across Bogue Sound, to Hoop Pole Creek during high tides. A last sign warned the area was closed and it was unlawful to take oysters, clams, or mussels. Once clear of the signage, we walked onto a nice boardwalk and into the maritime forest. The boardwalk transitioned to hardpacked sand as we approached the shoreline of the estuary. It was low tide and the broad mudflat was exposed. Great blue heron and egrets glided in front of us over the seagrass. We took a different path inbound, walking closer along the water. The entire length of this afternoon walk was only a mile, but it was a most pleasant stroll.  

We returned to Crossroads in time to watch some bad basketball, which led into a colorful sunset.  

OK, This Is Interesting ...

Beaufort  

The rain had already begun to fall before we woke up. This was expected as it followed two nice sunny days. This is the cycle we've become accustomed to. Boat projects were on the docket for the day and we assembled all of the tools and parts to complete Part 2 of our bathroom vanity upgrade. We had completed the two faucet installations over the past week or so, but had not yet changed out the drain assembly. As with most original installations on this boat, we did not know what to expect. Barry's remark of, "OK, this is interesting" has become a standard prelude to projects big and small. He tried the drain wrench, then the larger channel lock pliers. In Indiana Jones fashion he followed with "Why did it have to be adhesive?". The Taiwanese factory workers were overly aggressive in the amount of adhesive applied to the sink drain. Time to bring out the power tools. Eventually the old pitted unit was removed and the shiny new chrome ring was installed. We broke for lunch then repeated the process on the second sink which provided less resistance. All was looking shiny and I followed behind with a good cleaning. 

Rain and gusty winds continued throughout the afternoon. I was lucky to catch the sun at the moment it peaked through a small opening in the clouds on its was beyond the horizon. It stopped raining, but the wind continued to howl. The full moon rose into a cloudless sky. We're hoping the sun will come out tomorrow and we can get out for at least a walk. 

 

A Few More Checks On The List

Beaufort  

Low wind this morning meant that our bimini could be marked for its final fitting. The canvas was then carried back to the shop where a tuck will be made in one area. After that, it should be good to go. Not long after the canvas contractors departed, two representatives from the local US Coast Guard Auxiliary came to do the annual safety inspections on both Crossoads and our dinghy. We received our new stickers and are good for the next year. It was a productive morning, with two big items being checked off the list. After lunch we walked around town to stretch our legs. We have one elusive item left to find on our Beaufort Scavenger Hunt. It was a pretty afternoon. The sounds of songbirds filled the still air. We had already walked these streets several times, but today we paid a little closer attention to the historic train depot. The plaque on the wall provided a build date of 1907, but this building looks much different from the town's other buildings of similar age -- from top to bottom. Red tile shingles cover a steep hipped roof. The flared eaves extend outward to create deep overhangs. Impressive wooden brackets provide the support for the stucco building's roof. Passenger service ended here in 1938. The building served as home to the town library until the 1960s. The train tracks that ran through town were removed in 1994. Today it is the home to the Beaufort Woman's Club and has a display of early railroad memorabilia inside. We still did not locate our last hunt item.

We expanded our exploration and went further east on Front Street to the site of a new planned development. A sales office is located in town and we've looked at the brochures and displays for six weeks. The best part of this new community is that the homes are not all mega mansions. Several sections are set up with both houses and townhomes under 2,000 square feet. Sunset soon followed with an increase in cloud cover. I settled in and watched the UVA women put together a strong performance in a sweet win over Miami. Tomorrow will be rainy and breezy (gusts to 35 mph ... again) with a chance of a thunderstorms. It is not looking like a good day for canvas installation, but we'll keep our fingers crossed.  

All Aboard In Wilmington

Beaufort  

Today's stop on the Chicken Salad and Lemonade Tour was the Historic Downtown section of Wilmington. A few weeks ago we had visited Eagles Island on the south side of the Cape Fear River to tour the Battleship North Carolina. We had identified a few places we'd like to explore in Wilmington proper and decided to make a day of it. Friends David and Sue travelled from Shallotte and met us at The Wilmington Railroad Museum at 10:30. Exhibits are housed in Warehouse B which was built in 1883. In the main hall, displays ranged from a stunning stained glass depiction of a steam locomotive to railroad signs and symbols, and historic details. Wilmington has long and deep railroad roots, dating back to 1840 when the Wilmington and Weldon Railroad was completed and was the longest in the world at the time. Atlantic Coast Line Railroad was formed in 1900 and grew through aquisitions to have tracks reaching from Richmond to Florida. In 1965, the company headquarters were moved to Jacksonville, FL. A merger in 1967 with Richmond's Seaboard Air Line Railroad formed Seaboard Coast Line Railroad. Years later it has evolved into what we know today as CSX. 

Several large glass cases contained exhibits on uniforms, evolution of sleeping cars, dining on the train, and communications. I found the display of vintage luggage very interesting as they are literally a portable chest of drawers. This museum has the distinction of setting a Guinness World Record (which still stands) for the longest model train. On April 23, 2011, railroaders from the museum constructed a 925-foot long HO scale train with 31 locomotives and 1,563 cars. It traveled continuously for over 750 feet in the Wilmington Convention Center. I can't picture what that would look like, but I was blown away by their huge train room. Billed as the largest model train layout in the region, it includes areas for HO, O, N, and G scale models. The detail in the scenery was incredible. Barry and David worked through a scavenger hunt to discover oddities, including the Weinermobile. I enjoyed pushing all the buttons to activate the many trains and sounds. The recreation of the Wilmington Roundhouse, which allowed engines to rotate and enter any repair bay from the main access line, was top-notch. While the boys were searching for deer, their final item in their hunt, I took a seat on one of the vintage station benches and read The Little Engine That Could.

The top feature of the outside exhibits was steam engine #250, built in 1919 by Baldwin Locomotive Works in Philadelphia. It was the final Atlantic Coast Line locomotive in service, running between Wilmington and Fayetteville in the 1950s. The "Welcome to Railroads" statue is made from pieces of rail that guide trains through switches while changing tracks. An authentic concrete milepost was on display. The number 243 is the distance on the Atlantic Coast Line as measured from the center of the James River Bridge in Richmond to Smith Creek Yard in Wilmington. Another marker on display was the whistle post which was placed several hundred feet before crossings to signal the engineer to start blowing the whistle. The stripes represent the sequence of two long blasts, a short blast, and another long blast -- the standard signal for trains approaching a crossing. The former headquarters for the Atlantic Coastline Line Railroad has been repurposed as part of the aloft Wilmington at Coastline Center hotel. 

It was a beautiful afternoon for a little trek around town. We walked to the Cotton Exchange. The former home to the Cape Fear Flour and Pearl Hominy Mill in 1884, the mill was the largest in the South at that time. In 1919 the building was repurposed as a home to Alexander Sprunt & Sons, the largest cotton exporter in the world. Today the Cotton Exchange is home to restaurants and shops. For something totally different we stopped in at The German Cafe for lunch. The exposed beams and old brickwork added to the Old World vibe. The German Chocolate cake looked devine, but we passed after our reubens with authentic German potato salad. After that lunch we needed to walk some more so we headed up Market Street and admired all the classic architecture. St. James Episcopal Parish occupies an entire city block and is the oldest church in Wilmington (1729). The red brick of the 1892 New Hanover Courthouse, with its recently renovated bell tower, made quite a statement. Next to the courthouse stood the William Allen Cobb Judicial Annex in much different, but still exquisite, architectural style. First Baptist Church, dedicated in 1870, has traditional Gothic features -- two towering spires (not pictured) and elaborate window arches. Two streetside cannons provided an interesting accent in the church grounds. 

We took a quick stroll through the grounds of Bellamy Mansion, one of North Carolina's finest examples of historic antebellum architecture. The full colonnade and the huge 154-year-old magnolia tree were the highlights for me. 

I must admit that I was overdressed for the day which turned out to be warm with no wind. We walked back the Cape Fear River and passed a fountain-horse trough in the median at the bottom of the Market Street hill. Across the river was the Battleship North Carolina which we visited a few weeks ago. The federal building was completed in 1919 and makes quite a statement along the waterfront.

The Wilmington Riverwalk is well-decorated with sign pole banners, informational placards, and seating areas. The Cape Fear River begins northeast of Sanford and empties into the Atlantic in Southport. More than 29 counties and 9,000 square miles make up the Cape Fear River Basin, the state's largest river basin. The Cape Fear Memorial Bridge shrank in the distance as we walked back to our vehicles past an interesting pelican sculpture, and following the markers in the sidewalk. We said goodbyes once again to David and Sue again thanking them for all the recent visits. 

We drove back to Beaufort and walked down the dock to Crossroads as the final light of dusk faded beyond the bridge.

Guidance From Dory

Beaufort  

We could only laugh. There wasn't another choice. We woke once again to the loud groaning of the dock lines stretching tight against the strong wind. My first comment was, "I speak whale," referencing a classic line from Finding Nemo. We both chimed in with "whale speak" to echo the sound of the lines passing through the hawseholes above our head. After layering up we went outside to inspect all the dock lines. The wind was on our nose and the bow lines were tight, but in good shape. Faced with another windy day in Beaufort, I then quoted another line from Dory: "Just keep swimming." Bless her optimism. We received a call from the canvas contractor telling us the obvious. -- it was too windy to measure and mark. We shifted gears and began working on a few more boat projects. Barry replaced the faucet in his head (bathroom) to match the one recently replaced in my head. I started polishing other stainless steel fixtures and moved on to the ports. The view out of the port in my shower was of the starboard piling. The visible wetness and growth (either barnacles or oysters) indicated we were very close to low tide. The nice reflections in the frame was evidence of a job well done. As is usually the case, one project leads to another, and then to a trip to the hardware store. The wind was still whipping the flag stiff as we drove into Morehead City for a few additional parts from Lowe's.    

This evening we enjoyed a great sunset and planned the road trip for tomorrow. We are looking forward to a new adventure. On Thursday, we'll try again with the canvas. We'll continue to be like the little blue tang, Dory, and just keep swimming. In a nutshell that statement "gives us the hope we need to reach our goal -- to finish strong, and to persevere through hard times. Essentially, to never give up."

Feelin' Alright

Beaufort  

It took a while to formulate today's plan. I did my morning reading from the pilothouse and looked out to a bright blue sky with plenty of sunshine. I did so, however, with wool socks on from under a blanket. It was another cold and blustery day. "What do folks do at the beach in the summer when it is either too hot or raining?," I wondered. Answer: go see a movie. That option sounded great. We did our research, had an early lunch, and headed to Atlantic Beach for the 1:00 showing of Bob Marley One Love. I am familiar with Marley's music, but knew very little about his personal story. This was an eye-opening look at his life which was cut short by cancer at age 36. After the movie, we had plenty of afternoon left and couldn't pass up the opportunity take a walk along our favorite stretch of beach. The cloud cover had increased, but made for a serene backdrop to the dunes as we worked our way to the Atlantic Ocean. We couldn't believe how calm the water was. All of the wind was being blocked by the oceanfront houses. With no fetch, the ocean was docile with only a minimal lapping of waves onshore.

Once again, the beach was covered with shells. Beautiful olive specimens were once again plentiful. New today, probably the result of the gentle wave action, was an abundance of intact clam shells. After I took my photo of the open bivalve, a little sandpiper followed looking for an afternoon snack. It was a beautiful walk to the pier. Without the wind, the temperature was surprisingly comfortable.

We walked through the shells pointing out interesting finds to each other. The pier cast a strong reflection in the calm water. We took advantage of the pleasant conditions and walked further than we had on previous trips. We turned around and we were treated to a spectacular view as the sun backlit the clouds. When we returned to the spot of the broken orange whelk shell, we got a sense of how far the flood tide had advanced. 

The decision was made to visit a local restaurant for dinner, but we had to occupy some time. We returned to Fort Macon to visit a new-to-us area of the park. Aside form the fort's role in the Civil War, it was also occupied by the US Army in Word War II. From 1941-44, the "Harbor Defenses of Beaufort Inlet" protected the North Carolina coast from German U-boats. The standard long-range mobile field artillery could fire a 6.1-inch (155mm), 95-pound shot up to 11 miles offshore at a rate of four per minute. This emplacement lies beyond the walls of Fort Macon, closer to the water. We took the beach trail back to the parking lot and received a rude awakening as we rounded the point and were exposed to  the full effect of the wind. Even Barry was cold and eager to return to the parking lot. We had noticed on a previous trip that the park was collecting Christmas trees to be recycled as part of a dune renourishment program. For over 60 years, discarded trees have been used to help stabilize the beaches. The trees trap sand and eventually get buried where they will decompose and return nutrients to carry on the cycle of life. Our final destination of the day was Island Grille, a restaurant highly-recommended by my Aunt Wrenn way back during our first week in Beaufort. Oh, my gosh. My shrimp and scallops and Barry's mahi were so delicious. We have already decided that we will celebrate our final days in Beaufort (whenever that may come) with a return trip to this little gem. 

We thoroughly enjoyed our day which was capped off with another amazing sunset. With echos of Marley's One Love in our head, we were definitely "Feelin' Alright." 

Somethin' In A Sunday

Beaufort  

I rose before the sun and planned my morning with great intentions and anticipation. My legs were stiff from yesterday's inactivity, so I got my stretches done. I had breakfast and put on my cleanest dirty sweatshirt. I washed my face and brushed my teeth. The tune of Johnny Cash's Sunday Mornin Coming Down was cycling on repeat in my head. I planned my walking route on the sleepin' city sidewalks. I would pass by the 10:00 service at the Methodist church first and the 11:00 service at the Baptist church later in order to listen to the songs they were singin'. If I was lucky, I might even catch the smell of someone's fryin' chicken at one of the many restaurants in town. I then stepped outside to meet the day and everything changed. It was just plain cold, with the wind chill in the mid 30s. This is the very reason we have been trying to get south. I flat-out do not like being cold. On to Plan B. I worked on some pro bono graphics projects and found a couple ball games to watch. I rolled up all the shades and let as much muted natural light in as possible. There was some boat traffic today. Their motors echoed through the creek like the disappearin' dreams of yesterday.

Barry got back to the boat around 3:30 and proceeded to take a nap after his solo 4.5 hour drive under a gray sky. I became fixated on the computer screen and was late checking on the sunset. The bright pinks and purples were a wonderful surprise. Barry brought back our travel guides and we hope to get out and explore tomorrow. Checking the weather, its supposed to be mostly sunny, high in the low 50s, but the wind will be gusting 30 ... again. I am hoping Come Monday, It Will Be Alright; but it could very well be a Manic Monday. We will just wait and see.

Slow Dancing To Nature's Symphony

Beaufort  

Mother Nature's symphony began early this morning. The rhythmic sounds of our dock lines and fenders squeaking in response to the gusting wind have become a familiar tune during our stay here in Beaufort. The beautiful weather of yesterday was on its way out as the front moving through brought wind gusts in excess of 30 knots. I spent the morning reading and working on a computer project, thankful for the expanded TV options available with Starlink. The noon tipoff of UVA and Wake Forest arrived with trash texting between myself and the Deacon fans in Winston-Salem. That game quickly led into the Heels and Hokies. Before I knew it was 4:00 and I had occupied myself for most of the day. The wind had died down so I went for a short walk around the docks and parking lot. It was still sunny, but heavy cloud cover was moving over the marina. I stopped to visit my plant friend Rosemary and check on her blooms. Although it was a dry weekend, no boats were moving and the complex was deserted. I wondered how fast we could get to The Bahamas with quad-350hp outboards. Of course, there is the issue of fuel consumption that makes such a quick journey unattractive to us.  

Heavy cloud cover arrived and will continue tomorrow. Barry will get back in the afternoon with the Escape and a few things that we dropped off at the house last weekend thinking we were done with them. When I get those travel brochures back, I'll figure out where we will day trip to on Monday. We're still anxious to see a few more sites within a three hour drive of our spot here in Beaufort.

Horsing Around

Beaufort  

In a process that has become far too routine, I took Barry to the train station this morning. Once more, he'll bring the Escape back so we have transportation while here in Beaufort. I returned the courtesy car shortly after 9:00, made a final stop at Crossroads, then walked into town to catch the 10:00 ferry to Shackleford Banks.The finger pier leading to the oversized pontoon boat was lined with seagulls. A 20 minute ride took us out into Beaufort Inlet before we turned north into the sound, and headed to the western end of Shackleford Banks. Waves piled up in the shallows, but our ride was smooth. Our captain beached the boat and lowered a boarding ramp onto the dry sand. Our group was the first of the day and was an interesting mix of serious shellers with wagons and oversized strainers on long poles, a few families with small kids excited to see the horses, and tourists who probably did not realize what they were getting into. We exited onto a beach covered with driftwood and shells. Most of the group went off to find the horses. I chose to take the road less traveled, and walked around the tip of the island to the Atlantic shore. I could have picked up a backpack full of shells, but only brought two back with me. The biggest accomplishment was being able to video chat with my Mom and show her all the shells. The quantity of shells diminished and I climbed the wind-swept dunes to the trees of the interior island. 

Shackleford Banks is nine miles long and is the southernmost barrier island in the Cape Lookout National Seashore. It is known as one of the best shelling beaches in North Carolina, but is most famous for the free-roaming Banker horses that roam the uninhabited island. Technically the horses are not wild, because their ancestors were domesticated, but feral. The horses are descendants of Spanish mustangs that survived a shipwreck in the 16th Century. I climbed to the ridgeline and used my expert tracking skills and was vewy, vewy quiet as I followed fresh evidence of the elusive equines. I located the horses' watering hole and took a seat on the highest point to look, listen, and wait. I figured that horses were much like the proverbial butterfly: if you chase them they will elude you, but if you sit quietly and wait they will come to you. It was a sunny afternoon and I was able to shed both my sweatshirt and jacket.

The sounds of songbirds and surf filled the air. It didn't take long to hear whinnying. A short time later a beautiful stallion passed before me. He gave me a brief inquisitive look, but continued to graze on the scrub vegetation. I was able to circle him at a distance and get a few decent pictures with my phone. Mainly I just sat and observed. He whinnied again. New sounds of splashing wafted over the hill. 

A mare emerged from the vegetation surrounding the watering hole. The Bankers are considered to be a smaller breed of horse, averaging 13-14 hands. The mare was smaller than the stallion and her legs were covered in mud up to her hocks from walking in the water. The Shackleford horse population is managed to hold close to 120. This herd along with the one in Corolla are the last remaining "free roam" herds. In the 1920s, there were more than 5,000 horses. Today, that number is closer to 400. At 1:00 I bid them farewell and started working my way back to the pickup point. I enjoyed every moment of my time watching these magnificent animals. 

The tide had ebbed revealing broad sand flats. A lone clump of sea grass occupied a tiny spot in a vast open space. I was surprised to see cactus along the trails, not noticing the spiny succulent until part of it hitched a ride at ankle height on my jeans. The sun-bleached remains of a fallen tree formed a bridge between the dunes and tidal flats. Our boat arrived and we loaded after the next group of arrivals disembarked. Cloud cover was thickening and I relayered for the walk back to the marina. Almost exactly as I got onboard, Barry texted me that he had arrived in Richmond. I told him that if we get a nice sunny day, we both need to make this trip. If we do, I'll bring my "real" camera.

Sign, Sign, Everywhere A Sign

Beaufort  

Sunny morning. Low wind. Not cold. Everything seemed to be in place for our 8:30 canvas fitting. We foolishly asked ourselves, "what else could go wrong?" Jinx! At 8:40, Barry's phone rang and we knew immediately it was not good news. Overnight, the entire canvas shop staff had been diagnosed with Covid. They would not be working today or tomorrow. Saturday and Sunday are normal off days. Monday is Presidents' Day. Maybe we'll see them on Tuesday, depending on how they feel. Disappointment doesn't sting as much these days. Somehow we've come to expect it. Why are we receiving all these signs to stay put? Barry and I took a few moments to once again modify contingency plans and then craft new plans. After a quick lunch, we both agreed the best thing for us to do was get outside and go for a walk. I found a nice sunny spot to wait for him while he stopped by the marina office to tie up some loose ends. We once again walked the grid of streets through the Historic District. Placards on every house and large curbside live oaks were signs of the city's rich past. An interesting sign for the historic bus tour (closed for the winter) is painted on a shed. Signs of the recent Mardi Gras festivities remained on a hitching post and a garden statuary. 

Better signs -- those of spring -- were more prevalent today. A large blossom on a tulip magnolia emerged from leafless branches. More cheerful daffodils had opened. New growth fern found a secure home in the crook of an oak tree. How have we missed an oh, so appropriate sign on a Front Street gift shop? Bimini Twist could very well sum up our entire 2024 winter cruise. Maybe they sell T-shirts. I'll be sure check in there on tomorrow's walk. Our favorite sign of the day teased with a promise as hollow as the calories. We resisted the temptation to solve our problems with two scoops in a waffle cone. In front on the courthouse, a long row of political signs have sprouted. We might be getting close to establishing residency. Maybe we should pay more attention to the candidates in the upcoming local election. 

The day warmed up nicely and we were able to remove our jackets and try to soak up a few rays of sunshine. Back onboard, I watched the sun set through the saloon window as I fixed dinner. The sun has noticeably moved from left to right during our stay here. This is a sure sign of the changing seasons and passage of time. Finally, a few wise words courtesy of Snoopy provided a sign for us to put everything in perspective.