Beaufort
Barry and I have been looking forward to this day for as long as we've been in Beaufort. We made the three hour drive down to Southport to meet dear friends Peter and Denice and celebrate with them. When we were in Southport last April, their new house was being built. Today we were able to see their new home. Everything about it was beautiful and serene. We both agreed that their layout would be perfect for us as well -- from the paint scheme and special woodworking details, to the overall flow and sizes of rooms, we loved it. The kitchen was the centerpiece of the main level and that's where we found Peter preparing lunch. Their pup Gracie was almost as excited to receive ear scratches and belly rubs as I was to give them to her. We chatted and caught up as we enjoyed a delicious risotto with mushrooms and tomatoes paired with a mixed greens salad. It was indeed a delightful surprise, and by far the nicest meal we've had in a very long time. All four of us qualified for the Clean Plate Club and were properly fueled for an afternoon walking tour of Southport.
Southport is a regular stop for us by boat, but we have never had the opportunity to walk the downtown and historic areas along the Cape Fear River. There was plenty of free visitor parking right in the heart of town which was chartered in 1792. We walked up and down the tree-lined streets and marveled at how well-preserved the historic buildings are considering the salt air and location in a hurricane zone. The Old Brunswick County Jail was built in 1904 and used in that capacity until 1971. It is currently the home of the Southport Historical Society. The Burying Ground dates to 1745 with the oldest surviving markers going back to 1804. Monuments and obelisks, both flat and standing stones, and vaults tell their stories through their weathered appearance as well as through their engravings. Wind, sand, salt, and moss all combine to add context to the narrative written in stone. A quick turn of the head brings you back to the 21st Century and the frequent passage of large ships traveling to and from Wilmington on the Cape Fear River.
On a small hill overlooking the river, Joshua Potts laid out the first 100 lots in November 1792. A monument stands near the waterfront showing the original layout of Smithville (it was later renamed Southport) which was "braced up by the effects of the salubrious* breeze from the sea." The Walker-Pyke House stands as the oldest home in town at 224 years. The massive live oak also displays the effects of the salubrious breeze, with its sprawling canopy of twisted limbs stretching in all directions in front of the Fort Johnston site. This fort was built by the British in 1749 to protect the region from Spanish and Indian attack.
We continued along the waterfront which is occupied by several popular seafood restaurants. Fishing boats lined the docks and a group of pelicans enjoyed the warm sunshine. Circling back to the car we passed by Keziah Memorial Park and its famous Indian Trail Oak. A marker stated: "This ancient gnarled oak has been estimated to be more than 800 years old. Indians may have bent the young tree to mark the trail to their fishing grounds. The tree took root a second time thus developing the unusual formation." I found the most interesting aspect of this tree to be the two "young" sprouts rising up from that ancient root. I left Southport with a new appreciation for this thriving town combining rich history with independent coffee shops, gift stores, and restaurants (no big box chains permitted). Peter also gave me a long list of movies that have been filmed in town. Safe Haven and Crimes of the Heart were highly recommended.
As a final treat, we crossed the bridge over the ICW to Oak Island. Blue sky welcomed us and we all removed our jackets to enjoy a walk at Gracie's favorite spot -- Caswell Beach. Remote with limited development, the large dunes covered with sea oats are a perfect welcome mat to the broad beach. We arrived at low tide when small ripples dissipated on top of a large sandbar. To the left was Oak Island Lighthouse, the last lighthouse to be constructed in North Carolina. A short distance away on the north shore of the Cape Fear, we could see Old Baldy -- the oldest lighthouse in North Carolina. A short drive back to their home gave us another opportunity to all of this area's amazing features. We said final goodbyes and offered more Thank Yous to Peter, Denice, and Gracie before heading back to Beaufort. I did not mind missing the sunset, for this day could have lasted forever.
*Salubrious -- adj. -- health-giving; healthy -- My word of the day.
No comments:
Post a Comment