Jumping Back In

Cambridge Cay  

The morning served only as a bridge to the afternoon. I did my stretching and some of the cleaning I put off yesterday. Barry tackled a few small boat projects including rewiring one of our duplex light switches. We've had Crossroads for five and a half years but have yet to accept the crazy Selene wiring scheme. Nine times out of ten we turn on the top switch hoping for the ceiling light only to get the floor lights. The top switch now controls the ceiling lights. Hallelujia! Little things make a huge difference.  Following lunch, both low tide and slack current were upon us. We loaded our snorkel gear into the dinghy and headed back to the Aquarium. We had the place all to ourselves! We jumped back into our personal tropical fish tank. A large school of sergeant majors greeted us directly under our dinghy. We both had cameras and hoped to get a few pictures.

Our timing was perfect as there was no current. We were able to easily move around the coral heads and were pleased to see several species of fish that were new to us.

These colorful ones were our favorites. We were in the water for over an hour and could have stayed longer except there was one other place we wanted to visit.

Two days ago we had seen dozens of boats on a beautiful sandbar that emerged at low tide. The area is at the northern tip of Obrien's Cay, just a short distance from the Aquarium. We were once again fortunate to have the place to ourselves. And, once again, the pictures don't come close to conveying the beauty that surrounded us. This is the view looking east toward Exuma Sound. 

This is the view looking west toward the Aquarium. 

We were happy campers. I believe this area may have secured the top spot on our Best Places Ever Visited list. Reluctantly we returned to Crossroads and had just enough time to clean up our gear and shower before dinner. Apparently this large barracuda wanted to share a bit of our salmon because he hung out at our swim platform for several minutes with his buddy, a large nurse shark. A single large cloud covered the setting sun, but was beautiful in its own way. We've had a great time in Cambridge Cay, but will move on tomorrow. Our goal destination is Warderick Wells, the headquarters of the Exuma Cays Land & Sea Park. There is no cellular service there, so it may be a few days before I can upload my posts. Yes, I know it is Final Four Weekend and there are six games I would love very much to see. This year, however, I'm choosing to give up my internet for a few more days in paradise. I'll be cheering for Carolina in my mind (UNC men and USC women).

Enjoying The Highs and Lows

Cambridge Cay  

Our morning light show went into overtime today. The heavy cloud cover kept the rising sun hidden for an extended period of time. As forecast, the wind had picked up overnight and created a rolling chop here in the Land & Sea Park. With few choices as to how to spend the day (other than cleaning), I chose to do some reading on Fiberglass Beach, catch some rays, and enjoy the view.  

Crossroads, with all her windage, spent her day sailing on the mooring ball. The wind was steady in the 20s and opposed the swift current moving through the mooring field. We kept a strong tug on the bridle and from my position I had a good view of all components. The lines were straight and there was no sign of chafing. With a little extra time on our hands, I decided to make flatbread pizzas for dinner as a treat. Then, since the oven was already hot, Barry made scones for dessert. The sun set in colors similar to those as it rose. We seem to have fallen into a pattern this year where a great day full of friends, adventure, and excitement is followed by a slow day due to changing weather. We try to take everything in stride and enjoy both the highs and the lows.

Rolling With The Tide

Cambridge Cay  

The operating hours at the Exuma Cays Land & Sea Park are governed more by the tide than the sun. Yesterday, we entered the park at high tide and explored the sand bar and beach at low tide. Today's activities were also tide-dependent. A visit to Rachel's Bubblebath is best done at high tide, which today was at 7:00 am. After a quick breakfast, we loaded in to the dinghy and headed out to the northern tip of Compass Cay. We anchored in the surf and proceeded to walk upstream toward Exuma Sound. Along the way we were treated to the sight of small mangroves growing in the tidal flats and a ray swimming along with us.

A short walk though knee-deep water and across some rocky areas led us to our destination. The Bubblebath is a calm lagoon separated from the Sound by a thin rock ledge. When the tide is high, the waves spill over the rocks into the lagoon and creates a bubblebath effect. I ventured out and enjoyed a dip for a few wave cycles. The walk back to the dinghy was one of the prettiest we've had here in The Bahamas ... and we were the only ones in sight. 

It was a great morning. The wind was low and the seas were calm. We took the long way back to Crossroads, but were still home by 10:00. We found her riding nicely on the mooring ball. Soon thereafter our friends from Untethered arrived and anchored a bit in front of us. We said hello and planned to visit the Sea Aquarium together. It is best viewed at low tide and slack current so we had a few hours to wait.

After lunch we went to the northern tip of O'Briens Cay, tied the dinghies to the mooring and jumped in. We were not disappointed and saw plenty of colorful coral and a rainbow assortment of fish dashing in and out.

The pictures don't do the area justice. It was a great experience. We could have stayed much longer, but we had another destination that was also best viewed at low tide. Time was ticking away. We followed in the wake of the Untethered crew to Rocky Dundas. This was a new experience for us and we were fortunate to have Richard and Kelly give us some pointers. Without them, we would have been too chicken to pull up to this steep rock face. The current was pretty strong and the water churned up by the wakes of passing fast-movers, but we hopped in and went for it.

Rocky Dundas is a hidden cave that is accessible only by swimming under a ledge (which is exposed at low tide). Once through the opening you're inside a large, open cavern. A hole in the "roof" allows in ample sunlight. Stalactites reach down from the ceiling and stalagmites rise up from the floor. All of the rock surfaces are covered in a colorful algae. This was an amazing experience we'll never forget. It was an unexpected treat to be able to spend the afternoon with them. We gathered aboard Untethered to relive the day and watch the sunset.  

A Walk In The Park

Big Majors to Cambridge Cay |  2.5 Hours  |  15 Miles 

We left the hustle, bustle, noise, and traffic behind as we departed Big Majors. The Staniel Cay area of the Exumas is not bad for a night or two, but it is way too crowded for me. More than a few mega yachts lined our exit route. Today would be another short hop, but it took us to another world. Almost on cue as we entered the boundaries of the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, the water shallowed and changed color. Light blue indicated shallows and dark sports were rocks. As we rounded the tip of Bell Island, we got a good view of each. The deep(er) water channel runs right up against the rocks. We had been here before, so the narrow passage didn't freak us out ... too much.

Even though we entered at low tide, we had no issues with depth. We pulled right in to the mooring field and identified an open ball. With all our lines in place, we threaded the pendant and got Crossroads tied up pretty quickly. A couple on a neighboring boat had come over in their dinghy to offer a hand, but said, "You don't need help. You know what you're doing." Its always nice to receive a vote of confidence. After a quick lunch, we lowered our dinghy and went to the sandbar to take advantage of the low tide. Barry took the high road on the shore, while I made my footprints in the shallows.

We walked until the sand disappeared under the water then turned around and headed back. A pleasant discovery was all of the conch in the flats and tidal pools. The Land and Sea Park is a no take zone, so these young conch have an opportunity to grow and thrive.

From the sandbar we crossed over the mooring field to the beach on Cambridge Cay. We had to anchor the dinghy a good distance from the shore because of the low tide. The thought of "how deep will this water be when we come back?" always comes to mind. After we reached the shore, a short walk on the sandy path through the foliage gave us our first view of the dark turquoise water of Exuma Sound. The beach on the eastern shore was all our's and we walked from one end to the other, taking in the great views.  

Bell Rock dominates this stretch of beach and deservedly was the focal point of most of my photos. After two great walks in the Park, we returned to Crossroads around 4:00. I enjoyed the late afternoon sun on Fiberglass Beach and completed my book. We finished dinner just as the sun was dropping below Bell Island. Cambridge Cay is more our style of Bahamas destinations. We will stay here a few days and enjoy all that the area has to offer. 

Big Majors' Big Attractions

Big Majors  

The light and variable winds and calm seas that I was so happy to have last night lasted until 4:00 am. That is when the wind shifted to oppose the waves and we were once more rockin' and rollin'. The north wind also ushered in chilly temperatures. The view from Fiberglass Beach was still stunning, but I was forced to break out a long-sleeved T-shirt for the first time since being in the Bahamas.

A little reading was mixed in with watching vessels of all sizes pass by. Determined to get off the boat, we waited for the warmest part of the day to make our rounds through the two must-see attractions for us on Big Majors. With the dinghy parked at the far end of Pig Beach, we went ashore to visit The Original Swimming Pigs of Staniel Cay. Since our last visit, the pigs' home has gotten many upgrades and new regulations. It was good to see ample supplies of fresh water for the porcine population.

We timed our visit to avoid the tour boats and found most of the pigs up at their pen. The little ones were cute and ran in and out of their appropriately-sized door. A vocal rooster walked the top of the walls, keeping everyone in line. Alas, we did catch one piggy going out for a swim (if only to relieve itself). Somehow, the magic of our first-year visit and the interest of our second-year visit were both absent on this, our third-year visit.

The other must-visit for us is Fowl Cay Resort, a place that planted a dream seed for travel and vessel. Fellow Richmonder Libby Brown, we will always think of you and your incredible story, Making Waves. These are a few pictures from her book that I referenced before riding by the island this afternoon. 

The night ended with a simple sunset viewed from onboard Crossroads -- white ball on orange field, between the line of mega yachts.

A Day That Ended Beautifully

Big Majors  

Yesterday's swirling winds had settled by this morning. Before we lowered the dinghy, we first needed to unwrap our Bahamian courtesy flag from around itself. Our ride into the Staniel Cay Yacht Club (SCYC) was pretty comfortable. We were traveling with the waves and stayed flat and dry. First order of business was to dispose of our trash. SCYC charges $7 a bag to use their dump service. We had a chance to watch the nurse sharks at the dock while waiting for lunch service to begin at noon. We grabbed a spot on the deck and enjoyed conversation with a couple from Miami and a gentleman from Germany while waiting for our food. Then we all heard it -- the indescribable sound of fiberglass rubbing on fiberglass (worse than fingernails on a chalkboard). We, and everyone else on the docks, look up to see a large white motor yacht sideswiping a slightly smaller gray motor yacht, with a towed dinghy caught in between. The offending boat seemed to get away with only a large scratch. The worst damage seen on the offended boat was a bent fluke on their stainless steel anchor. One things for sure, your day can change from calm to chaos in a split second. I'm sure insurance companies will be busy on Monday.

Our lunch was great, but the sky was turning grayer by the minute. The lighting was not good for taking photos of the water, but it was perfect for capturing the colors on land. Most of the flowers are seen regularly on our walks. The blooming cactus was a new sight today. The roosters were spotted assembling in a grassy field. Maybe they were going to choir practice in preparation for tomorrow morning's wakeup call. We visited the three local grocery stores and managed to check off the few items on our list. 

On the way back to the dinghy landing at SCYC, it began to rain. One last quick photo and we were heading back over to Big Majors. Intermittent afternoon showers kept us inside. I read in the pilothouse as boats continued to file into the anchorage. One glance up revealed a familiar vessel. Untethered, a 57-Selene out of Urbanna, had anchored in front of us. Barry hopped in the dinghy to welcome Richard and Kelly to the neighborhood. We all met on Cruiser's Beach for sundowners. The evening was beautiful and even a bit chilly with light and variable winds. We sat in the sand and watched the sun lower to the horizon. 

Then we watched the sun disappear and dusk turn into dark. It was great fun to catch up and share stories of cruising highs and lows. Under a clear sky full of bright stars, we all said goodnight and made our way back to the motherships. We will meet up once more tomorrow with Kelly and Richard and also check out a few more things in this area before we move on. 

Keeping Our Eyes Peeled

Black Point to Big Majors |  1.5 Hours  |  8 Miles 

We had a rolly night in Black Point as the wind and waves continued to fight each other. Neither one of us slept well. We were anxious to move on and by mid-morning our anchor was up and we were heading a short distance to Big Majors/Staniel Cay. As we made the turn north we fell in behind Bright Ayes. Wayne, Betty, and guests were moving right along on the power of their massive headsail, with a little assistance from a whisker pole. They continued on as we made the turn east into the anchorage. This area is a magnet for megayachts and we had more than a few pieces of eye candy to check out as we cruised in. The Royal Bahamian Defense Force was here. The familiar silhouette of a Selene-53, (today it was SaltyMare) appeared tiny next to its triple-decker neighbor. Home would indeed be a nice place to spend my days.      

Then I caught sight of two white lights up against the dark of the land. As we studied the lights, they continued to come closer until we realized they were attached to a sea plane departing Pig Beach and quickly climbing above us. We refocused on finding a good spot to anchor knowing that afternoon squalls would bring a 180-degree shift in wind direction. While finishing up the anchoring process, I spotted a large dark spot off the bow. When it moved, I knew we had company. A large shark circled Crossroads for 10 minutes before giving up on us becoming his lunch. The first squall clouds appeared from the west, but passed by with only a few gusts. 

After that both man and beast returned to the water, darting about from boat to boat. The sun came out and I moved to Fiberglass Beach to enjoy a book along with the view. The big squall arrived around 5:00. Dramatic clouds provided a prelude for the arrival of the rain and clocking winds. In a span of 30 minutes, we had indeed clocked around 180 degrees. Crossroads also received a much needed bath before darkness settled over us. We're looking forward to dropping the dinghy tomorrow and heading to shore.

Time Will Tell

Williams Cay to Black Point |  4.5 Hours  |  31 Miles 

I woke up before dawn and watched from the pilothouse as the sun's rays announced the arrival of our last morning in Williams Cay. Mixed feelings ran through my mind. I chose to focus on one of my favorite quotes from Dr. Seuss, "Don't cry because it's over, smile because it happened." I'll certainly have a huge smile on my face for a long time as I think back on all the great adventures shared with Paradigm Shift during Bahamas Trip 2022. At 9:00 and just past low tide, Barry fired up the engine signaling it was time to bring up the anchor. We had an audience as Greg, Glenda, Jaxon, and Cooper all came out to send us off. All I needed to do was get the anchor up quickly while looking like I knew what I'm doing. Of course nothing goes as planned. The anchor came up loaded with sand and grass. It took several minutes of travel through the water to wash it enough to bring in and secure it. I think I even missed waving a final goodbye. Since we were just past low tide, Barry crept along just above idle speed until we got a comfortable amount of water under our keel. At this slow speed, I had the opportunity to appreciate all the beautiful crescent beaches of Lee Stocking Island one more time. I sure plan to be back to this incredible spot next year. Time will tell.     

Past the monument and out through Adderly Cut we went into Exuma Sound. Southeast waves and wind combined for some good size swells. Crossroads was surfing and gave us a comfortable ride. As we passed along the back side of Black Point we noticed a large new structure under construction. We ducked into Dothan Cut and turned south toward the Black Point anchorage. Heavy equipment was busy moving dirt on the point. We joined a good number of other boats in the rolly anchorage, made so as a result of wind and waves traveling in different directions. We chose not to lower the dinghy because of the roll. That left me to read on Fiberglass Beach while watching dump trucks take away loads of earth from the construction we'd seen earlier. The new building looms even larger over the harbor. I fear Black Point will be another favorite area that will be forever changed by development. Time will tell.   

Around 6:00 I went to start the generator prior to preparing dinner. Oh, no. There was no water pumping. I quickly transitioned from cook to sous mechanic as we checked a few things before raising the floor to check the impeller (a wear item). Sure enough, we were missing quite a few fins. Thankfully everything was put back together and running like a champ in about an hour. With the generator pumping a steady stream, the microwave and freezer were back in operation and we were back on track. It is still rolly tonight, but we're hoping for a better tomorrow. Time will tell. 

Finishing On A High Note

Williams Cay 

With our boat chores done early, Glenda and I set off to explore a few more trails on Lee Stocking Island. The first would take us to the top of Perry's Peak, the highest point in the Exumas at 123 feet. Every turn produced a scenic overlook. Whether we looked north or south over the Exuma Bank, the view was incredible. Glenda led the way through the palms.     

A small marker identified our destination. A turn east gave us our first view of Exuma Sound and a nice breeze.

Looking north, we could take it all in -- the lighter blues of the Banks and the darker blues of the Sound.

Palm trees lined the crescent beach where the dinghy was parked. On top of world and feeling great, we took a few more pictures before starting the journey down in search of another trail to follow. 

We found a second trail to take us to the Sound-side beach. The path was definitely less traveled, but it was well-marked along the way to keep us on track. We were both taking photos along the way. When we later compared and shared our shots, it is funny (but not surprising at all) to see that we were capturing and composing many of the same images. Two great minds, thinking alike! When the trail opened to the beach we were positioned atop of a high sand dune. There was never a doubt -- of course we were going to descend the steep, sandy slope. We did not see another soul and had the whole beach to ourselves. We were making (and capturing) yet another great memory. 

The surf zone was a little rocky, but the sand was clean and soft.

We walked from one end of the cove to the other, then retraced our footsteps to the trailhead. We were thankful for the assist rope which previous hikers had tied to a sturdy tree. The rope helped us make quick work of the slope. Back atop the dune, we took in the view for one final time. On the way back we were able to catch a shot of one of the many green lizards scurrying about in the underbrush. These little guys are not as intimidating as the iguanas.

Soon we were back down to our starting point. This area is so beautiful and peaceful that I could stay here all winter and be totally content.

We headed back to our motherships with one more selfie for scrapbook (digital picture frame). All of the photos we've taken together show two friends who are so lucky to spend this time together. A farewell dinner aboard Paradigm Shift capped off the day and gave me an opportunity to spend a few more hours with the boys. 

We enjoyed appys on the flybridge and the sunset from the cockpit as a delicious dinner was grilling. These few days have been over-the-top enjoyable and the memories will be forever cherished. Thanks to Glenda, Greg, Jaxon and Cooper for sharing these experiences with us. We look forward to many more to come.

We will depart for Black Point in the morning to explore some more of the Exumas. Paradigm Shift will make their way back to George Town in a few days where they will meet friends flying in from home. 

Running With The Little Dogs

Williams Cay 

A chilly, breezy and overcast morning had us working on inside projects. I shuffled provisions from the commissary and settee to the galley. At this point of our trip (three months in) it is interesting to see what we're running low on and what we still have multiples of. Barry added to the chaos when he opened the floor to do some service on the generator. At one point, every door, cabinet, and hatch was wide open. After lunch, Glenda and the boys stopped by to pick me up on their way to the beach. This is the same beach we visited yesterday, but I quickly noticed a new addition. Someone had dumped several empty conch shells in the surf, spoiling the beauty of this little cove. Jaxon and Cooper didn't seem to mind though. They raced up and down the sand and had a great time. Glenda and I also completed several laps while keeping an eye on the boys.  

Cooper was a whirling ball of energy and wouldn't leave his big brother alone. After about an hour we scooped up the boys and secured them in the dinghy for the ride back to the anchorage. 

I settled on Fiberglass Beach with a view of the rocky shoreline where we snorkeled yesterday. I gave up on the book I've been struggling with and picked up a new one for which the pages passed quickly. After dinner I was excited to watch the Virginia game on TV. In typical Wahoo fashion, they frustrated the energy out of me, rallied to give me hope, then ripped out my heart and stomped it in the end. 

Better Than Ever Expected

Williams Cay 

Looking forward to another great day, I got breakfast, my boat chores, and stretching done early. Glenda picked me up at 10:30 and we headed off to one of the many trails on Lee Stocking Island. Neither one of us had knew where the trail went or what we'd see along the way. No worries. In The Bahamas you can't really go wrong. We picked up the trail at a lone towering palm tree and followed the sandy path into denser foliage. We referred to a large stand of palm trees as the "dancing ladies" for their grass skirts. At the top of the hill, the view was incredible and we were excited to continue down to the beautiful eastern beaches.    

We walked from one end of the crescent beach to the other. The sand was clean and soft, and even had a hint of pink to it. The area where the waves were breaking was pristine and sank way under each footstep. Higher up on the sand was a large accumulation of wrack containing shells, vegetation, coral fans, and a huge amount of sea-borne trash. I picked up several large angel wings (still intact) and one sea urchin test (that's the official name of their shell). We were having so much fun just doing nothing. That's the way we roll.

Once reaching the northern-most point, we turned south and retraced our steps to find our trailhead. Along the way we took time to appreciate small details like the foaming leading edge of a wave. At the crest we paused to enjoy one last look out to Exuma Sound. This little trail led to views better than ever expected. 

We headed back to our motherships for a late lunch. Seems that while the girls were away, Greg and Barry had taken Paradigm Shift for a spin (literally) in order to recalibrate her autopilot. It's new position warranted a shot of our two Selenes sharing this scenic anchorage. Following lunch we all went for a dinghy ride in search of a good snorkeling spot. We circumnavigated Norman's Pond Cay without finding a spot that was sheltered from both the wind and current. 

As a last option, we gave the rock formation in front of our boats a look. Everyone put on their gear and the boys eased into the water. Following their report of promising underwater activity, the girls also jumped in. Low tide provided a nice view of the coral heads around the underwater crevices.  

Barry was adventurous and chased a school of fish. I liked looking at the multiple species of colorful coral and noted the white shell. 

After a while it was back to just having fun and messing around. By no means do we claim to have good underwater cameras, but we were able to get a few decent shots to remember the moment. The snorkeling ended up, once again, being better than ever expected. Dark clouds appeared overhead and we climbed back into the dinghies. Personal brag moment here -- since I last snorkeled here two years ago, I have worked hard to improve my strength and flexibility for getting back into the dinghy. I had to give myself a big "Attagirl" upon landing in Backroads. 

Cleaning my gear and wetsuit, taking a much-needed shower, and downloading all our photos filled out the late evening. Following dinner, I went out to the cockpit and watched the sunset from our stern. I was trying several spots and angles for capturing tonight's colors, when my phone dinged. Greg had sent me the photo below of the sun setting behind Crossroads. Tonight's closing shot turned out to be, once again, better than expected. 

This is my 500th blog post. How can that be? Since starting this site, we have traveled over 11,500 miles aboard Crossroads. The vast majority of those miles have occurred on the Great Loop and two separate trips to The Bahamas. Those three trips have been chronicled here. Thanks for following along!