Day Trip to McClellanville

Awendaw Creek   

We had a near-perfect night at anchor in Awendaw Creek. Crossroads swung 180-degrees with an overnight change in tidal current, but I didn't notice a thing. The cool temperature and gentle breeze passing through the ports made for great sleeping. I had high expectations for a grand South Carolina Low Country sunrise and made my way to the pilothouse at first light. Initially, muted colors and thick clouds left me disappointed. As time passed, the drama intensified. Gulls and pelicans swooped high and low as the sun lifted above the clouds. A full 15 minutes after the official rise, the orange was still intense and the sun glitter was bright.

I spent the morning cooking and baking with much of the fresh food I purchased in Charleston. Afterwards, washing the dishes occupied even more time. Once everything was done and put away, I got my shower and then we put the dinghy in the water. Our outing for the day was a 5-mile run up the ICW to McClellanville for lunch with Paradigm Shift. The small town known for its shrimping fleet and seafood industries is located a short distance up Jeremy Creek. A tall fire tower overlooks many private docks that line much of the creek. The fishing fleet could be spotted in the distance. We tied up at the Leland Oil dock and walked into town via Oak Street. Glenda and I admired the architecture of St. James Santee Episcopal Chapel of Ease. Further down the road was the massive Deerhead Oak. Estimated to be over 1,000 years old, it is a symbol of strength and community for McClellanville (population 560 as reported in the 2020 census). In 1989 the town was devastated by the full brunt of Hurricane Hugo which passed over the village as a Category 4 storm.  

It seemed that all vehicle and pedestrian traffic was headed to T.W. Graham & Co. for lunch. What a great find this seafood restaurant turned out to be. All of our entrees were delicious and very reasonably priced. The owner and staff were super friendly and the pups even got to dine with us. We definitely put this on our "Come Back To" list. Returning to the dock, we passed under more spectacular live oak trees covered with Spanish moss. It was a beautiful day and warm in the sun. We enjoyed the long joyride as we travelled close to twice the normal speed of Crossroads. Evening snuck up on us once more, and before we knew it the sun was setting on another great day.

Slow Ride On A Low Tide

Charleston to Awendaw Creek  |  5 Hours  |  30 Miles  

With so much to see and do in Charleston, it was difficult to leave. Our time was up, however, as the MegaDock was booked up and unable to extend our stay. My morning began by watching the sunrise from the pilot house. I did my stretches and prepared the boat for departure. The early arrival of American Cruise Lines' Independence gave us all a bit of a show. While it is small for a cruise ship (51 rooms/100 passengers), it is large for the MegaDock. It settled into the large vacant stretch of dock, two boat lengths behind us. Jaxon and Cooper took me for a nice long walk before our departure. We will be at anchor for the next few days and all of us wanted to stretch our legs while we waited on a slack current. The marina staff has been working hard for two days to create enough room for Independence. Some of that space came at the expense of open area between boats. We were packed in like sardines and a combination of wind and current made for a challenging exit. Once out, both us and the Paradigm Shift crew breathed a sigh of relief. We worked our way to the entrance of the ICW, but saw a multitude of sails billowing between us and our waypoint. Today was the start of the 26th annual Charleston Race Week, marketed as "A Regatta Unlike Any Other." 

Three separate courses were set up and hundreds of boats were taking advantage of a nice breeze. We found an opening and darted over to the ICW. We passed Charleston Light on Sullivan's Island. Completed in 1962, it is the last major lighthouse built in the United States. It is a triangular structure, with steel girders and aluminum siding. It has an elevator and a light that can be seen 27 miles offshore. In my book it and North Carolina's Oak Island Light battle for the title of ugliest lighthouse ever built. Our little Selene parade passed under the Ben Sawyer Bridge and looked forward to a short run to our anchorage. 

We hit this stretch of the ICW on a falling tide and the water was extremely shallow. We require at least five feet of water and Paradigm Shift needs six feet just to stay afloat. This afternoon, our margin of error was sometimes in inches and we were forever looking for the "deep" water channel. A new moon contributed to a super low tide. Mudflats were the sight of the day here in South Carolina's Low Country. The shorebirds were plentiful and enjoying good fishing in the shallows. A bald eagle kept watch over all the activity, in a scene from Birdwatching 101. We bumped bottom and churned up a lot of mud on this passage, and nerves were frazzled. This was the most stressful 30 miles we've done in a long time. Our anchorage was a pleasant surprise. It is large and deep. Our two Selenes joined two other boats in the middle of a Low Country marsh. Cheers were in order for having our anchor down.

From the flybridge I watched the pelicans put on an aerobatics display and caught one of the many dive and splash sequences taking place around us. The sun set to our stern, centered between Paradigm Shift and our flag. We will be here a few days as we await dock space to open in Georgetown.

Charleston By Van, Carriage, And Foot

Charleston 

We did all of our provisioning yesterday so that we could explore today. I got my workout and stretching done in the morning before meeting Glenda and Greg to catch the noon marina shuttle van. Jaxon and Cooper got the day off and remained aboard Paradigm Shift. Our first stop was lunch at Henry's Rooftop Deck. The downtown historic district was busy with tourist activity and we were glad to get a table at the peak of midday rush. The view from the third floor was an added bonus. A clear sky and bright, warm sunshine enabled us to scan the skyline and pick out the many church steeples. After lunch we walked two blocks for the main event. I love the classic Charleston streetscapes with gas street lamps and flower boxes. An ivy-covered wall was an interesting surprise. We had a 2:00 reservation with the Old South Carriage Company for a horse-drawn tour of the city. Our names were called and we took our places on the second row of our carriage. I fail to remember the name of our tour guide, but Ricky, a 1900-pound Belgium draft horse, led the way.   

This was our third tour with this company, but all have been on different routes. Today we saw many churches, more elaborate window box displays, the commercial district, beautiful gated private gardens, and the ubiquitous Charleston Single houses.

Our guide pointed out historical features and modern construction. One colonial practice was to decorate the doorframe with symbols of the resident's trade. This particular house had a rope detail surrounding the door which represented a nautical occupation. Ornate trim had many variations. The circle gave off an Asian vibe. The dog statue on the porch was a nice touch. Our fact of the day was that the state tree of South Carolina, the palmetto palm, is not really a tree at all. It is a grass that grows in strands, not in rings as do an oak or pine. Our tour ended shortly after we passed alongside the station with a horse-through-the-window painting. As our group exited past Ricky, he gave the boys a Bronx cheer before turning and posing for the camera.

We all enjoyed ice cream cones before making the 30-minute walk across the peninsula and back to the marina. Our route took us through the College of Charleston campus. Along the way large hedges of the highly fragrant Star Jasmine lined the sidewalks. A bonus was spotting this elegant driveway lined by an impressive formal garden. As our tour guide told us, "people in Charleston don't have lawns, they have gardens." Before we knew it the sun was setting behind Crossroads, marking the end of another great day.

Restocking Our Treats

Charleston 

Inspired by another orange sunrise (this time across the marina), we got busy early. Barry and I went out and gave Crossroads a bath using both soap and a brush. He scrubbed the nonskid and I came back to wash the other surfaces with a sponge. She is looking and feeling (to the touch) much better. Our big plan of the day was to catch the 11:00 shuttle to West Marine and Harris Teeter. We met up with Glenda, Greg, Jaxon, and Cooper to make it a big outing. A big surprise upon our arrival at shopping center was seeing a Petco. The boys were excited to do some shopping and Glenda helped them pick out some of their favorite bones. Its not just the people that had run out of their favorite treats. Barry and Greg headed to West Marine while Glenda and I darted into the Harris Teeter. Oh, my gosh. It was sensory overload. We each had our lists in hand and knew we only had about 45 minutes to be done and waiting for the return shuttle. The produce, fruit, and vegetable section was heavenly. We each loaded up our baskets before exiting the front portion of the store. The clock was ticking so we raced through the rest of the store on a mission. We could have stayed another hour just going up and down all the aisles we skipped. We loaded all of our purchases into the van and headed back to the marina. Jaxon and I enjoyed the view from a window seat. Thankfully the MegaDock has plenty of dock carts which made toting our bags to the boat much easier. Barry used the parts he got from West Marine to fix our swim platform.

We all got together for dinner in town. The shuttle took us both to and from the restaurant. Before heading back to the boats, we picked up the last of our Amazon shipments. Little things in little boxes do make us happy. The wind laid down, the water was calm, the sky was clear, it was chilly, and Charleston gave us another orange sunset to end the day.

Cleared By Customs, Prime Time

Great Harbour Cay to Charleston  |  56.5 Hours  |  472 Miles  

A restless sleep was had by all as we awaited departure. Thoughts raced through our minds and ranged from predicted weather to the length of our stay in Great Harbour to how fast our overall time in The Bahamas has flown by. I was up in plenty of time to catch the sunrise and triple-check that all the ports were closed and loose items secured. In times like these, sinks become great storage bins. Our target was to leave at 7:30, but all of our boxes were checked with much time to spare. After a quick discussion with Paradigm Shift, we agreed to just get moving. Our anchor was up at 7:05 on Sunday morning. Fittingly, it was packed with sand and symbolically shared my reluctance to break free from the islands. We were underway and surfed our way along in a following sea. From our pilothouse, we watched as Paradigm Shift caught and rode more than a few good-sized waves. By 8:30 in the morning we lost cell service and were off the grid. It was a pretty day, but still chilly outside in the breeze. Around 3:30 in the afternoon, we began to spot large structures as we neared Freeport, Grand Bahama. The three towers near Eight Mile Rock were eventually identified as oil wells. We also got our cell service back and had just enough time to place an Amazon order before things got interesting. Glenda texted me that their generator was not pumping water and had overheated. Greg was in the engine room changing the impeller. He did a quick change and they were back up and running without even slowing down. A very short time later, and I couldn't make this up, our generator overheated because it wasn't pumping water. I made a comment that there must be something in the water. Sure enough, Barry check the sea strainer and it was full of sea grass. A line of storms was on the horizon as Barry went under the floor to change our impeller.

Meanwhile, I was at the wheel and watching the menacing clouds approach. At one point, a funnel dropped from the sky, but never reached the water. Barry emerged from the engine room to proudly show me the faulty impeller and all the fins he fished out of our heat exchanger. We were also back up and running. The heavy rain stayed to the south of us and Paradigm Shift. Heavy cloud cover made for a monochromatic transition from day to night. We settled into our watch schedule and continued making miles. We rounded Grand Bahama island and took a more northerly heading. The five foot swells that we had been surfing earlier in the day were now on our beam. The ride got a little sportier, but still was not bad. Nothing went flying and we never buried our bow. Barry encountered a lot of ship traffic on his 9-12 watch. My 12-3 watch was not a busy, but there were still several cruise ships around to keep me alert. On my next watch, I caught the sunrise for a fleeting moment before it Climbed into the cloud cover.  

The "red in the morning" served no warning for Monday. We were in the Gulf Stream, 60 miles off the coast of Florida. The waves were calm, the sun was bright, and Fiberglass Beach was calling my name. I spent my off-watch time finishing up another book and enjoying the view. It was a beautiful day on the water.

We were heading north and had a great view of the transition from day to night. An orange sunset was developing in the west as the sky to the east was darkening. We went through several large free-floating patches of sargassum that prompted us to check our water intake strainers once again. All was clear this time. The sunset continued to intensify as the sun lit up the clouds before emerging as a fiery ball just before disappearing below the horizon.

By the time Monday became Tuesday, we were in the middle of the Gulf Stream and seeing a speed over ground of more than 11 knots. The sky was clear and the stars brilliant in the darker than black sky. The ride was smooth and I was tired, which allowed for some much-needed quality sleep from 3-6. Tuesday's sunrise came with the same color palette as the night before. Paradigm Shift was perfectly positioned for us to get a few nice shots of them against the orange backlight.  

A mid-morning walk-around of our deck, led to the discovery of two fish that we "caught" overnight. These little flying fish jumped onto the boat and met their untimely demise. A short and sweet ceremony preceded their sendoff and return to the water. It was another pretty day and the miles clicked off quickly. The wind died down and more reading was done on the bow. Then we heard our fist sign of return to civilization as our phones started dinging with all the texts and emails we had missed. We were a bit ahead of schedule when we entered Charleston channel. Paradigm Shift was dwarfed by a bulk carrier at anchor. Barry began the process of checking back in to the United States and we were put on hold. The 128 cables of the Cooper River Bridge competed for dominance with the billowing white clouds. We arrived at our destination a few hours early and had resigned to anchoring out until the MegaDock had room for us the next day. Our anchor bridle was attached and ready to go. The wind was picking up as a line of storms approached. Barry called the marina and was told they had a slip for us. Yay!! I quickly remove the bridle and string up the dock lines for a starboard tie-up. We circled around to our assigned slip, but couldn't get into it because of the combination of wind and current. It also looked like we only had about six inches to spare between the dock and neighboring boat. The office then made a spot for us on the MegaDock with a port-side tie. OK, move everything over to the other side and prepare to parallel park our 43-foot boat into a 50-foot opening. At least this time we were into the current and the wind was blowing us toward the dock. Barry wiggled us into place like a champ. We plugged in the power cord and got word that we had cleared Customs. Whew. Time to breathe.

I cleaned up the decks and re-stowed all the lines and fenders that ended up not being used. Over the radio we heard that dock space had also been made for Paradigm Shift. Another Yay. The clouds and wind continued to threaten, but most of the precipitation missed us. We stretched our legs by going to retrieve our Amazon package that contained a few items not available to us in The Bahamas. Nothing says welcome back, like the black smile on a Prime package. We had dinner onboard with a goal of just relaxing. There was enough rain to produce a late-evening rainbow. Another great orange sunset developed behind the James Island Expressway Bridge. Not long thereafter, I was asleep. It felt really good to not be awoken by an alarm after only three hours. 

Ready for Departure

Great Harbour Cay   

Yay! A blue sky set the tone for the morning. Maybe this front was finally moving off of us after all. Energized by the view out the windows, I jumped right in to preparations for departure. First was a bit of meal prep with pumpkin bread going in the oven. While that baked, I mixed up the Mexi-chicken salad and divided it into single serving containers. The last of the lasagna that I prepared back in December was thawed and repackaged as well. We will have a long passage and expect periods of rolly seas. It is important to have meals readily available which only require reheating. I made one more trip into the commissary to resupply some depleted items in the pantry. Nearing the end of our trip, there is so much room in there that only a little Boat Yoga is required to reach the far corner. After lunch we headed into the marina for a final trash run and walk. We met Paradigm Shift at the very full dinghy dock and they helped us get access to the ladder by using their boat as a bridge. The wind was still blowing today and wreaking havoc with my hair. I'm going on five months without a haircut and it definitely shows. Jaxon, on the other has had his Groome(r) onboard and always looks dapper.       

We stopped for a final round of beverages (strawberry slushies, no alcohol) and compared notes on our preparations and the weather. Before leaving, Glenda took me to the abandoned swimming pool at the marina. Even though we have stayed in this area for almost a combined month over our last two trips, I had no idea this existed. Through all of the overgrowth and murky water, its once-grand elegance could still be imagined.

With our onshore mission accomplished, we loaded back in the dinghies. A quick detour was made through a nearby harbor to see what had changed in two years. More construction has been completed and more was underway. The funky little tree I remembered from 2020 was still standing strong and tall.

We exited the cut for one last time and zipped across the open water. It was a pretty afternoon.

Around the bend, Paradigm Shift and Crossroads came into view. I enjoyed the final few hours of strong Bahamian sun to read and top off my tan before we put the dinghy back on the upper deck. By the time dinner was done and cleaned up, the sun was giving off the evening's best show of color. Our plan is to have the anchor up tomorrow morning at 7:30 with an ideal destination of Charleston, three days away. We will not have cell service for the great majority of this time. I'll check back in when we return to the grid. Thank you, Bahamas, for a great stay.

Waiting On Weather

Great Harbour Cay   

Our latest day in Great Harbour was much like the last few. We awoke to cloudy skies, a gusty wind, and occasional rain showers. Stuck onboard, the next stop on my cleaning tour was the pilot house. I washed all the windows both inside and out and then applied a fresh coat of Rain-X to the exterior. While I dusted, polished some stainless, and cleaned the floors and walls, Barry was cleaning the oven. He took the door off and disassembled it to finally remove a drippy ooze that came with the boat many years ago. With those chores done, we filled the afternoon with a few more. Barry worked on the generator and I put together our menu for our upcoming crossing. After cleaning the galley, it didn't take long for me to mess it back up with baked salmon, a pot of rice, and sauteed asparagus. Today's culinary effort provided dinner for tonight and will cover two more meals along the way. As darkness fell, Barry checked the camera at the house that showed bright green grass (freshly mowed thanks to our wonderful neighbor Ken) and my azaleas in full bloom. In a slight improvement over recent days, we actually saw a hint of a sunset for about five seconds before the clouds extinguished the elusive light. 

I'll end with another look at a much more vibrant sunset during this year's trip. Oddly enough, this favorite is from April 13, our first night here in Great Harbour. Unfavorable travel conditions have kept us here much longer than expected, but a short weather window is opening for our crossing. We will prepare tomorrow for an early Sunday morning departure. Crossroads and Paradigm Shift will buddy boat back to the States.

Off The Boat For Lunch

Great Harbour Cay   

A cold front has kept us in Great Harbour Cay for over a week now. The current wind-driven waves between here and Charleston would make for a very sporty passage so we'll stay put until the sea state calms down. Meanwhile here, the island has blocked the wind and kept our anchorage comfortable. Last night was perfect sleeping weather with a nice breeze and chilly temperatures which brought the blanket back out of the drawer. I was up with the sun and got my workout, shower, and texts/phone calls completed just before it was time to leave for lunch. We met Glenda, Greg, Jaxon and Cooper at the Government Dock and walked a short distance up the hill to The Brown's Garden. Barry and I have fond memories of our dinner here two year's ago and were looking forward to a nice lunch treat. Ronnie, the owner and chef, met us on the patio and welcomed us for lunch. We ordered our meals and beverages then headed across the street to the large waterfront table. 

Sandra, our server, took great care of us while our food was being prepared. The sun was out and we were all excited to be off the boats and on land. As usual, we were just having fun being together. Our meals arrived and they were delicious. Brown's delivered again. Glenda, Barry and I all had the cracked lobster. Greg had the whole snapper. We all cleaned our plates. While the boys took care of the check, Glenda and I went back to the grocery store to see if there were any new arrivals. Still no yogurt or frozen blueberries, but I did get some tomatoes. We walked past a beautiful tree full of stunning yellow flowers on our way back to the dinghy dock. Jaxon was keeping his eyes on us while Cooper was doing his own thing.

It was 3:00 when we returned to Crossroads. I read outside for a little while until the wind picked up and the temperature fell. I moved inside and continued on my cleaning spree. Today's target area was the salon. I even polished the stainless on the bar stools. I got a vote of approval when Barry told me, "she looks good enough to sell." (Boater Fact: A boat never looks cleaner than the day she goes on the market.) That's not happening anytime soon, even though it looks as if tomorrow will have more cleaning weather. As we await the opportunity to depart The Bahamas when this crazy weather finally clears, we also look forward to returning to visit the many places we have yet to see. 

Looking Forward, Looking Back

Great Harbour Cay   

With the cold front upon us, it was a day to stay onboard. Initially the wind seemed rather normal and I was somewhat disappointed that we may have missed an opportunity to go ashore. I did my morning stretches then proceeded with my planned boat chores -- clean and polish the remaining six stainless steel ports, dust (ugghh), clean and polish the wood floors and walls, vacuum, and do a load of laundry. Today's effort was focused on the downstairs. Tomorrow, I'll tackle the main salon. We also shuffled provisions between commissary, settee, and pantry. At this point in our trip, we have run out of a few things (granola bars, protein bars, pretzels) and have quite a few of other staples (green beans, diced tomatoes). Even with good planning it is impossible to pack a perfect supply. Tastes change and availability of replacements vary from year to year. The wind did build throughout the day and the gusts occasionally brought goose bumps to my arms. In between chores, I started to sort out and edit all the photos I've taken in the previous four months. It is amazing how fast the thousands of files accumulate on my phone. I deleted many shots (like the 12 of the curly-tailed lizard eating a chip from yesterday), but have many great shots to help remember our 2022 trip to The Bahamas. Since no one wants to see me dusting (except, maybe, my mom) here's one of my favorite scenes that I came across today (Bell Rock, Cambridge Cay). I hope to get the opportunity to take a few more photos here tomorrow in Great Harbour Cay.

Cheers To Great Friends

Great Harbour Cay   

Thinking today might be our last opportunity to get ashore in The Bahamas, we were moving early. Barry and I left Crossroads as Glenda, Greg, Jaxon, and Cooper departed Paradigm Shift. Our destination was the government dock which would be our hopping-off point for a walk to the grocery store. The girls went inside while all the boys waited outside. This store was great. We checked off most of our lists and even found a few unexpected favorites. Greek yogurt and frozen blueberries remain elusive and are at the top of our lists for when we arrive in Charleston. We carried our bags back to the dock and got a kick out of Cooper wanting to tangle with a rooster. Glenda's firm grip kept him safe, even as he gave a stiff pull on the leash. Back to the boats we went to pack away our purchases. Not long thereafter, Glenda and Greg picked us up for a lunch run. We walked from the marina up to The Beach Club and celebrated our arrival with beverages. Cheers. The boys had Kaliks and the girls had more colorful concoctions. Once more, the food here was great. We shared ups and downs, highs and lows as only dear friends can. The view from our table made the afternoon even more special.   

A small curly-tailed lizard grabbed my attention as he attempted to eat a potato chip under the table next to us. I took a dozen pictures of him so felt compelled to include one tonight. On the way back to the dinghy dock we stopped for ice cream. Each couple got a pint and two wooden spoons and made quick work before it melted. Back on the mothership by 4:00, I moved to Fiberglass Beach to finish my latest book. The wind began to pick up and the clouds thickened by sunset. If the forecast holds true, we will staying onboard all day tomorrow. Truth is, we all can use the rest. We've done a lot of walking the past few days. Time to start preparing body, mind, and boat for the upcoming three-day trip to Charleston. 

The Joy Is In The Pursuit

Great Harbour Cay   

Last night after our dinner together on Paradigm Shift, Glenda and I planned a walk to Seashell Beach today as our big outing. Once again, we would have to time our arrival to closely coincide with the afternoon's low tide. Today that was at 3:42. We watched showers pass through the area and set a departure time of 2:00. Barry dropped us off at the marina dinghy dock and we set out on our latest adventure. The walk to the beach was approximately three miles, but the draw of the destination powered us along the way. When we emerged from the trees and passed through the sea oats, we got our first glimpse of the exposed sand bar. Our timing was perfect and we were all smiles. We removed our road-walking shoes and drank some water before starting our hunt for sand dollars. After Barry and I visited here a few days ago, I received a request to bring some of these seas treasures home. It didn't take long for us to spot them in the sand. Some were more visible than others. Glenda and I were "competing" to see who could find the largest and/or smallest complete specimen. Extra points were earned if buried deeper in the sand. It was another great afternoon of two friends enjoying the setting and the company.

The ripples in the clean sand and the reflection of the sky in the tidal pool were mesmerizing. Glenda announced that she found a crab and stopped to get a picture of it. She captured a great photo of the little guy posing for the camera. I envision him saying, "I'm not afraid of you."

The clouds came and went. We had no more rain as we spent an hour walking around the shallows. After only a short while I had picked up as many sand dollars as I wanted. Afterwards we were on a spot-and-release mission. The joy of the afternoon was in the pursuit and just spending more time together. We could have stayed much longer, but the day was ticking away and we still had an hour trek back to the dinghy dock. We walked along the beach for as long as we could before putting our shoes back on and hitting the pavement. The marina had filled up in the time we were away with many boats coming in to ride out the upcoming blow. Tomorrow is likely to be our last opportunity to go ashore in The Bahamas. Once the front passes through we'll pull anchor and join a growing flotilla crossing back to the States.   

Easter Blessings

Great Harbour Cay   

My alarm went off at 5:45 and I was up in the pilothouse by 6:00 to catch the start of the 250th Sunrise Service from Old Salem. The way I was feeling it could have been Thanksgiving Day. There's no better feeling than looking out the window and knowing your best friend is nearby. Paradigm Shift rode beautifully in dawn's pink glow. I was also thankful for strong internet that allowed me to livestream the service that has meant so much to multiple generations of my family. I opened the doors and covered up in a blanket as I watched our sunrise along with the one in Winston-Salem. Our sunrise was pretty magical.

The pinks and yellows intensified in the east while the full moon was setting in the west. A golden glow preceded the sun popping over the tree line. 

An early start led to a productive morning. Barry worked on our customs paperwork. I did my stretching and then settled in the master to livestream the 10:00 service. The music was incredible and I could almost feel the power of the Tannenberg organ through my laptop. I tried reading a bit, but kept hearing familiar Easter songs from the shore. The little green house in front of us was the source of a moving playlist. I relocated to the top of the pilothouse and enjoyed the music while watching the clouds.  

Soon it was 1:00 and time to go ashore with Glenda, Greg, Jaxon, and Cooper. We had not planned on meeting up again after saying our second goodbye in Williams Cay, but it has just worked out this way. By this time in our journeys, friendly faces are a true blessing. The first order of business was to meet with the customs official to process the exit paperwork for both boats. All of that went smoothly and we're all set to head back together to Charleston when we get the next weather window. With that weight lifted from our minds, it was time to explore. Glenda and I took the boys for a walk to the beach. It was a pretty good walk, about a mile to our destination. The boys started out strong and eager as they hadn't seen land in several days. They soon faded, however, and we ended up carrying them for the final stretch. We turned off the road and the view was amazing. We all enjoyed running around and playing in the surf for a while. Glenda and I enjoyed the opportunity for girl time and catching up on our family before having to return to the motherships. 

Back onboard, I checked in on all the activities from my favorite bunnies in North Carolina. Rebekah and I texted most of the afternoon and she gave me a running play-by-play prior to returning to Catawba. I got a quick shower before we left for our Easter dinner celebration. We were blessed to receive some lobster tails from Jerold while we were in Spanish Wells. I could think of no better time to share and enjoy them than Easter dinner with Glenda and Greg. We gathered aboard Paradigm Shift where Greg grilled the tails and Glenda prepared sides of rice and spinach. It was a great evening, far greater than I could have ever imagined ... or planned. Some times stars do align and things just work out. The way our paths have crossed yet again here in The Bahamas is truly an Easter blessing. 

All Is Good

Great Harbour Cay   

All of yesterday's clouds and precipitation were distant memories this morning. We welcomed the quick return of blue sky and sunshine. I texted with four family members in North Carolina about their busy day of putting flowers on the graves. Barry removed all the rainwater from the dinghy -- first with a bucket and then with the manual bilge pump. By 11:00 we were heading into the marina behind Sue and Larry (Beverly S). When we rounded the corner, a large Viking sportfisher dominated the view and blocked the dinghy dock. As we got closer we found just enough room to sneak around its bow and under its bow line, which was tied to a tree on land.  

While Barry disposed of our trash, I made friends with one of the locals. Sir Cat was very receptive to head scratches, but not so much to posing for the camera. Larry spotted a manatee swimming through the slips with a remora escort. We had seen a sign in the harbor to be on alert for manatees and we had seen one on our visit here in 2020. It is still, however, a surprise to see one of these gentle giants. A bit further down the docks, a large lemon shark was making its rounds. 

When we ran out of wildlife, we hit the road for lunch at the Beach Club. We arrived before noon with the idea that we had plenty of time to get to Seashell Beach by low tide at 2:17. Oh, how quickly I had forgotten that we were on island time and it was a holiday weekend to boot. We were seated at the last open table, but had to wait over two hours to get our food. We enjoyed the view, beverages, conversation, and a walk or two in the meantime. The staff was super nice and apologetic. The food was delicious. When we finished, our server took our photo with the myriad hues of blue water, just past low tide, behind us.  

There was no point walking to Seashell Beach on a rising tide, so Plan B was to walk south along the beach. The scenery was every bit as beautiful, just no sand dollars. I was glad to take a few photos of Sue and Larry along the way as a remembrance of their time in The Bahamas. Behind us, the clouds were rolling in. We left the surf and most of the sand behind us and all put our shoes on in preparation for the walk on the pavement. We were intrigued by the tiny houses under construction along the main road.

If you just want four walls and a place to lay your head at night while at the beach, this makes perfect sense. The sky was quickly darkening and we were all having flashbacks to yesterday's storm. As a light drizzle began to fall, a vehicle stopped to ask if we wanted a ride. Of course we said, "Yes. Thank you. That would be wonderful." We then realized it was the police officer. The super-nice gentleman took us the final mile to the marina and saved us from getting drenched. 

We waited under a tent for the squall to pass then took the dinghies back to the anchorage. Back on Crossroads by 4:15, I had a chance to check in and receive pictures from all the activities in Winston-Salem. Around 5:30 I got the text from Glenda that Paradigm Shift was in the channel and headed our way. A quick run from the master to the flybridge allowed me to spot them on the horizon. My smile confirmed all is good in our world. As they dropped anchor, I hit the shower to be done by dinner time. 

A colorful sunset topped off the day. Beverly S was in perfect position to add foreground interest. The sky began as a golden yellow and morphed to orange before finishing with a pink glow. As tomorrow is Easter, the full moon rose large and bright over Great Harbour Cay to the east. 

Grammy Always Said The Weather Turns Dark and Rainy Before Easter

Great Harbour Cay   

Grammy (my great-grandmother) always said, "The Weather Turns Dark, Rainy, and Cold Before Easter." This year she is, once again, correct. Good Friday, was not a good weather day. At 11:30, the clouds were thickening. By 3:00, it was looking pretty scary. We checked the radar again and saw that a whole lotta red was coming our way.  

We did a final sweep of the boat and secured everything the best we could. In the cockpit, the dinghy lines were adjusted, the swim platform flipped up, the cover was put on the flag. Very quickly, a wall of wind and rain overtook us from the west. Waves kicked up and visibility dropped. Barry and I moved to the pilothouse to keep an eye on our anchor monitor, other boats, and the wind. The wind stayed pretty constant in the upper 20s, and we saw it top 30 knots only a few times. For a while, we couldn't see the tip of our bow because it was raining so hard. 

We also kept following the weather radar to see how long until it was over. The rain continued for another hour and everything began to settle down back to normal. The shore slowly came back into view. All of the locals on land had to be thankful for the rain that undoubtedly filled their cisterns.

The dinghy rode out the storm like a champ, although tomorrow we'll have to pump about four inches of water out of it. During the storm we swung close to 180-degrees as the wind shifted to the north. Our anchor held fast as pivoted. By dinner time, the wind had clocked back to the southeast and we were back in our starting position. With the weather settled it was time to check in with the family back in North Carolina as they attended the Good Friday service. This service has been a part of my Easter tradition for decades, and thanks to the livestream, I was able to join in with them on every song. Then we all texted and chatted about it when it was over. Our approach to Easter has not changed for four generations -- family, church, and Easter dinner. And many more times than not, we've referred back to Grammy's weather prediction of close to a century ago. There's something to be said for tradition.